Chevrolet Impala Change Vehicle

“Power steering leaks into bellows”

“One of the hose busted and needed to be repaired”

“slow leak”

“Worn stuts let to tire cupping and road noise”

“Struts were good. The strut upper mounts went bad but only on the front”

“rear shock/strut broke”

“Movement/rattle between steering wheel, steering column, and (sometimes) brake pedal, particularly when crossing something like a railroad crossing. GM issued a technical recall and dealer refused to look at problem unless I agreed to all payments”

“Power steering rack noise. Replaced under warranty”

“Replaced the up links”

“one of the front tie rods broke. car still drivable until repair”

“I had to replace the outer tie rod end on the front driver's side”

“Car was wandering slightly right to left when driving. Heavy outside tie edge wear was being experienced. Caused by excessive play in wheel bearings. Tires Plus Tech said he would /could not tighten wheel bearings to take play out of wheel bearings on both sides. Ended up paying $700 to replace the wheel bearing assemblies. Seems ridiculous”

“Simply a case of old age, consider those to be a normal consequence”

“During routine service I was told about this problem”

“To correct my alignment problem, which was drastically wearing inside edges of all 4 tires - I installed 2 cam bolt kits and bought 4 NEW tires and paid for a 4 way alignment. Problem solved $850 later!”

“CASTER & CAMBER WERE NOT SET PROPERLY CAUSING EXCESSIVE TIRE WEAR. COST OF REPAIR IN EXCESS OF $2000. DEALER WOULD NOT DO THE REPAIRS UNDER WARRENTY”

“Paid to have the front suspension replaced due to the symptoms disclosed. Apparently, there was a recall on this model for this problem. This happened when there was the legal battle with Chevy. and the government. The recall was voided for this repa”

“snapping noise when going over bumps it took 3 mechanics to diaqgnose”

“Worn out”

“pump failed”

“This has been an ongoing problem known by GM but they have not been willing to fix or recall the Impalas other than the police vehicles. Therefore the owner of these vehicles must install cam bolt kits and align to fix said alignment problem”

“rear tires extreme uneven wear. class action lawsuit proceeding but no recall”

“Strong jolt when starting from a stop. Happens occasionally. Flushed transmission - sets to have mitigated (but not cured) problem”

“Transmission had a tendency to jump or lurch when shifting gears, esp. from a stop”

“Since about 60k miles, my transmission will inexplicably hesitate, then suddenly catch, when I'm stopped. It only does this occasionally, and multiple dealers have told me it needs to happen while they have the car, which never happens, so ghetto pro”

“Same as last comment”

“TRANSMISSION OCCASIONALLY SLIPS FOR A FEW SECOND WHEN MOVING FROM A STOP”

“from standing start transmission seems to rev up like in neutral, then clunks into gear. it is very random and some days is worse than others. I have had two mechanics look at it and neither had any idea what was going on. no computer codes were found on inspection. Had fluid and filter changed at 85,000 miles, thinking that might help. It didn't”

“It started out before 100,000 miles was reached, (end of warranty) I had the fluids replaced and filter "cleaned" before but not replaced per dealer. Got worse and slipping at starts after stopping such as red light, stop signs, etc”

“Premature slippage plus rough shifts”

“At about 106000 miles car started exhibiting "hic-ups" at about 40-45 mph. After changing the transmission fluid, it required about 800 miles of driving before the "hic-ups" ceased. In the meantime I spent $$ trying to figure out what was causing”

“Transmission slips occasionally. Not too bad but mechanics have told me not to bother with it until it completey broke”

“As I pull away from a stop. car begins to move then transmission jumps hard into gear”

“Line connector starts leaking, OEM part ony and they charge way above market value for the junk”

“Clamps holding transmission fluid had to be replaced. The clamps are made out of aluminum instead of stainless steel and fray after a period of time”

“sensor stopped working causing shifting problems”

“Broken wire between shifting lever and brake. Could not shift out of "park ". Dealer seemed to know it was a problem”

“I just covered the problem which perhaps more correctly was a transmission issue”

“The actuators for both the front passenger side door and the driver side rear door both had to be replaced”

“The automatic door locks work only on the driver door. The other three doors must be locked/unlocked manually”

“passenger side rear door lock sometimes sticks closed in hot weather; then goes back to normal operation”

“The right rear door would not lock, if manually lock, would not unlock. Needed both rear locking switches replace at close to $1000 for parts & labor”

“Obvious electrical problem / short. Works when raining / wet. Dealership says it can replace the actuators for 250.00 each but that is not the problem”

“Keyfob only work initermittently on drivers door. Will unlock other doors, but the one I need it to unlock. Have to use my key. Pain in butt!”

“Remote control no longer works and it would cost $150 to get re programed”

“drivers door wouldn't lock/unlock with remote”

“The remote locking/unlocking system does not operate on the driver and front passenger doors”

“Quit working”

“Sensor is not working on one wheel”

“Not close to accurate. Expensive to fix and repair didn't take. No need for toms anyway”

“The batteries go dead in the sensors of each of the tires costing 120.00 each from dealership”

“1. 2-monitors have been replaced 2. Tire wear -only get 30to 40K miles on new set 3. Could not remove key from ignition switch 4. Electric door lock on 1-rear door stopped working”

“Engine warning light came on, dealer repaired it in one day”