Ford Explorer Change Vehicle

"Common problem with both my Ford Explorers, upper and lower ball joints go within 75K miles"

"upper control arms and ball joints replaced"

"We thought this car had transmission and/or ABS problems, but it turned out it was a worn ball joint which was wreaking havoc with other systems. Since it was replaced, the car is working beautifully!"

"There was a vibration and a noise that was disconserting"

"Worn out"

"Hoses leaking; replaced"

"very poor suspension. Had to replace"

"This vehicle has required quite a bit of repairs and doesn't get used very often. The struts were previously replaced 4 years before without much use and with no off-roading and low miles within that 4 year period"

"had to replace rear springs"

"Torsion bar connection broke on one side; replaced both sides"

"I'm not sure if this is the actual part of the issue I'm experiencing.In the past 2 years, it has felt like my car does not handle the road well at all. I have it to several mechanics and the Ford dealership, but they all say there isn't a problem. I"

"Had to have the Tie rod bushings replaced because they were worn out"

"Common problems with both my Ford Explorers- right front inner tie rod end goes"

"Continue to have uneven tire wear on front left and rear right tire"

"Much too expensive to repair because an assembly and not just the failed bearing had to replaced"

"Had to replace both rear wheel bearings"

"Had to replace both front bearings"

"I had to replace 3 out of the 4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies. Very expensive and ridiculous with so low miles on the vehicle"

"Third time rear wheel bearings are loose. Do not use vehicle for off-road"

"Driver front wheel bearing had to be replaced. Did myself"

"had one wheel bearing wear out, Expected due to mileage"

"The cover over the rear hatch is flimsy. The connection points to the body can be broken easily. Made my own stronger repair, but need to avoid pushing or pulling on the plastic cover for the latch handle"

"trim across tailgate cracked and split"

"FRONT PASSENGER SEAT SIDE MOLDING SEPERATING, SEAT BACK CONTROL KNOB WILL NOT REATTACH"

"two of the door sealing gaskets came loose"

"The paint on the hood started to chip after a 3 or 4 years. I was told by a paint & body shop that it was not original paint... that it had been repainted. It's the same paint that was on the hood when we received delivery from the dealership when it was new. The dealer wouldn't repair it because they said it was out of warranty. Also, the plastic panel just below the window on the tailgate cracked after a few years and wasn't covered under warranty. The same panel cracked on our 2003 Ford Explo"

"PAINT ON ROOF PEELING"

"Areas of roof starting to peel"

"Paint blistered & pealed. Rust resulted. Area is 3 inches in diameter"

"paint peeling where roof rack is installed"

"Roof peeling"

"The hood had apparently been damaged between the time it was manufactured and the dealer delivered it to me. Unbeknownst to me and the paint has chipped and faded when the rest of the auto has not. Again, it was out of warranty by then."

"Bubbling paint on aluminum hood in 2010...Ford wouldn’t fix it. I had it fixed. Body shop won’t touch ford paint problems because they will happen again. Ford lost out business. We had bought 3 within @0 years."

"Running boards are rusting like they do on al ford explorers. Rear tailgate has cracked and Ford won't do anything even though almost all explorers driving down the road have the same issue!!!"

"Running boards are rusted out"

"Garaged vehicle quarter panels starting to rust out"

"related to the blistered & pealing paint. Blistered area is about 3 inches in diameter"

"Rear quarter panel rust which a body shop told me was common and caused by a poor weld that traps water"

"small area around the driver side rear fender"

"Paint on roof won't stay. Peels of from primer"

"Major paint deterioration and rust in all the 4-5 indented grooves that run along the entire roof."

"Rocker panels rusty due to exposure to winter road salt."

"compressor failed and I had to replace it"

"Continuous clicking noise as air regulator tries to engage, yet fails. I have it secured in one position so a/c is always on and never touch the controls"

"The air mixer control valve motor gave out. Cost $1000 to fix it"

"AC difficult to control. Often does not work"

"temperature blend actuator failure"

"The actuator quit working."

"I thought this was a case of freon loss...but after having my mechanic examine it, there was a problem with the electrical aspect of its operation. It now blows cool...but not cold"

"Could not change air flow direction. Was getting only air blowing through the vents and couldn't select defroster. Mechanic said it would be expensive to fix, because would have to remove entire dash. Instead he fixed it so I can select between defrost and floor vents only (no mid vent). This is OK for now"

"The heater works as far as producing hot air. The problem is it will only blow out of one set of vents. It will no longer blow out of the lower vents aimed toward your feet, or the defrost vents"

"NO heat...the door to allow heat to enter car would not open...blend door actuator"

"heater controls don't move from hot to cold because of a plastic gear that slips. the entire dash must be torn apart to fix it, at a cost of $2000. All labor. rear heat control is the same"

"I originally had to replace a part that controls the movement of ac to heat in November 2010. It cost $978 & lasted 6 months. My brother & I replaced it again in October 2011. In the summer of 2014 I again replaced it myself, but couldn't get full po"

"The direction of air flow from floor to windshield defrost does not work. The plenum direction door flap linkage broke. Did not get repaired. To costly and to long for downtime"

"Dampers are sticking and do not direct airflow properly when switching from heating, cooling and defrost."

"Normal wear & tear on car"

"Replaced the line from compressor to air handler"

"thermostat, housing"

"AC was not working. Technician discovered falty pressure line and connection to it. All freon had leaked out."