Ford Explorer Change Vehicle

"The leak was in the back door assembly that let water into the third row area. Water occasionally pooled in the interior spare tire well."

"water leak at sunroof drains"

"The Ford has a sunroof. We have had a front interior leak that was due to clogged drains from the sunroof that was fixed when the lines were cleaned out. However, we have continued to have a leak in the rear of the car whenever it rains. We have had the drains cleaned out, but that has not fixed the problem. Ford does not have an answer, however, the internet has hundreds of people with the same problem - none of whom have been able to have it fixed. We have finally sealed off the sunroof on the exterior with tape and caulking. We are hoping that resolves the matter as to the leaking but of course, it means we cannot open the sunroof in good weather. This seems to be endemic to this model."

"The sunroof drains stopped up and the floor of the car flooded during rains"

"water leak from body seam cracks around passenger side rear hatch hinge"

"Leaking around sunroof."

"Rear hatch leaked and was fixed under warranty by Ford. Occurred during major rain downpours and leaked on 3rd passenger seatbelt"

"The weather stripping around both front doors and breaking and the weather stripping around the windshield are breaking."

"it was a water leak at the upper roof located at rear left of vehicle."

"Bracket is broke on sun roof shade"

"Always squeaks and rattles from the front A-pillars, and right roof rail"

"The sunglass holder was not fastened correctly to the roof of the car. It constantly creeks and there is nothing that can be done about it."

"Not much to tell, no more than a rattle noise coming from the rear under-carrage (or maybe some where else on the body) that after several mechanics/ body shops looking into it without having any success finding the problem."

"Rear Fixed Moon Roof had a rattle"

"dash board on the passenger side near the windshield rattles"

"Dash rattles at 65 mph"

"Sunroof rattles and has since it was new but is mostly when temperature is in the 50 to 70 degree range"

"A rattle began 3 months after purchase and have taken vehicle back to dealer twice plus another independent garage but no one can determine what noise is or what is causing it. Noise seems to move from one side of vehicle around to other side and back again. Noise is intermittent and sounds like metal hitting metal"

"Intermittent rattle seems to travel from one side of vehicle around to other side"

"only when wet; serpentine belt squeaks. Have had it replaced before, about 2 years ago"

"The dash infront of the driver has hummed lowly ever since I purchased the Explorer. It was getting louder and was annoying so I finally had it looked into"

"Belt tensioner for Serpentine needs to be replaced. Squeals a little when belt gets wet"

"Driving at high speed creates noticeable wind noise. Ford should have spent extra money on sound dampening."

"caliper locked on one of the rear brakes"

"premature corrosion caused the rear caliper to stick. This caused premature wear of the pads plus overheating. Pads, rotors, calipers were replaced"

"Stuck calipers in the rear brakes. First the passenger side, then about six months later the driver side"

"Calipers seize up leading to brakes rubbing and wearing out prematurely"

"Master cylinder /booster failure, 1500 miles outside of extended warranty"

"Brakes made grinding noise at 12,000 miles, deemed "routine". by Ford, yet needed replacements"

"I initially had a problem with sticky brakes and told them it may be a faulty caliper. They said my rear brakes needed replacing but the caliper was fine. The problem reoccurred and they then said the caliper was bad and replaced it"

"The breaks needed to be replaced at around 80,000 miles."

"The cable stuck during very cold weather, causing a stuck caliper. The first dealer did not diagnose the problem correctly"

"This problem is sporadic and involves an warning light that comes on when the vehicle's shifter is placed in park. Sometimes the warning can not be stopped even after several tries. The problem started happening last month. It has not been serviced"

"Brake pads froze on the calipers at 40000 miles which damaged the rotors"

"Rear Brake pads and rotors needed replacement at 28,000 miles. Not covered under Warranty. I feel this is unacceptable for this type of vehicle and the type of driving we do"

"Calipers were stuck, keeping brakes engaged until total pad was worn"

"Second set in 60,000 miles of driving"

"Had the right rear brake cease despite having had ALL maintenance done by my dealer. Had to replace rotors and pads on BOTH rear wheels"

"Brake calipers seize leading to premature brake wear"

"Have owned the Explorer for just under 5 years - have had to replace the brakes and rotars and pads multiple times. Spent thousands in repair bills above and beyond the warranty that expired years ago (I've driven it ~20K miles/year)"

"Had to replace front and rear pads and rotors in at 105,000 miles. Not really sure if this is premature"

"Brake pad failure caused damage to rotors (Rear) at 28,000 miles. For the type of driving we do and the fact that this is a 4X4 SUV this is unacceptable since it was not covered under Warranty"

"Just wore out after 93000 miles"

"Only months after purchasing this vehicle, the brakes began to squeak. At the first oil change, they stopped squeaking. They fixed the squeak without any changes to the braking system (i.e. there were no new parts or services done)"

"dealer installation mistake to replace rusty shoes from trailer tow. Not factory fault"

"Brakes squeaked almost since day one, after several years and a bunch of visits the Ford dealer replaced the front brakes and has been fine since"

"A/C compressor failed in Aug. 2018. Dealer repaired under extended warranty. So far, continues to work very well."

"Compressor failed just past warranty Ford would do nothing"

"wouldn't cool one time cool air came out of right side vents but not left replaced part of compressor two more times ac would not cool at all fixed leaky valves"

"The system would sense an outdoor temperature of -32 degrees (like -5) when the outdoor temp was actually 90 and cause the heat to be on instead of the air conditioner. It would take 20-30 minutes to actually sense the outdoor temperature correctly."

"battery failure, Temp. not able to be control"

"Exterior temp sensor was not working. It was like this on the day we bought it brand new"

"Locked up with hot air blowing out of dashboard and it took two weeks to fix"

"the fan just automatically went to maximum.. when turned down, on screen, it would immediately go back to max. when turned down with the DASH button it wold respond as requested. this happened for about 3-6 months, then just stopped occurring"

"Passenger side quit working"

"The damper motor for the passenger side heat/cool switch over failed in the heat position. The part wasn't expensive but the labor cost to install was very high"

"Not sure yet apt. pending"

"blower motor stopped working"

"Cool and hot air only work on the driver's side. I haven't had it fixed yet because it is expensive."

"My Explorer is equipped with a secondary A/C system for the rear areas of the cabin. The self contained unit located in the right rear fender area failed completely and it cost me over $1,700 to get it taken care of. The entire unit needed to be replaced."

"AC was not cooling and dealer said condenser looked like it had been driven in gravel but as warranty had expired we paid full repair cost at 2000.00. There is no grille that covers much of the coil at front of car"

"The moonroof won't open and the sunshade now won't close. It broke at 45000 miles during my last trip. Hasn't been fixed yet"

"Battery Failure, the temp. not able to be achieved due to mech. and electrical controls"

"Leaking heater core"

"vent door actuator has failed twice"

"I had to take it in twice to get the A/C fixed. they had to replace the front condesor unit"

"replaced actualaters and leaking valves serviced 3 times for not coolong"

"One back-up light went out but the entire rear light system had to be replaced. It was very expensive."

"Brakelight became non functional and needed to replace the entire assembly"

"Om a trip. the headlights failed about dusk on an Interstate highway"

"Automatic high beam camera malfunctioned and had to be repaired under warranty"

"The drivers seat heating element does not heat in a uniform fashion"

"Seat heater failed, Ford fixed under warranty"

"An electrical short in the cargo area requiring a new lamp assembly"

"Interior Lights will not turn off after the delay period expires when the Driver Door is opened and closed upon exiting the vehicle. Happens in conjunction with the Stereo System not automatically turning off. Happens 50% of the time"

"Sometimes would not open doors immediately, then would. Had a problem with starting the car until pushing on /off buttons on keyless entry fob"

"The keypad on the drivers side door stopped working and had to be replaced"

"Hasn't worked right from day 1"

"Vehicle would not unlock or lock all the time even from distances less than 10 feet. You are unable to remote start the vehicle without locking first. Ford service unable to replicate the issue and videos of the issue did not matter"

"A sensor in the fuel system had to be replaced before the remote starter would work"

"Vehicle would not unlock or lock all the time even from distances less than 10 feet. You are unable to remote start the vehicle without locking first. Ford service unable to replicate the issue and videos of the issue did not matter"

"It's a problem related to the MySynch, or whatever the system is that governs navigation, entertainment, climate and phone. It doesn't synch properly. Never has worked 100%"

"Transmission shifter had to be replaced because it was not sensing being in the park setting. The warning light kept coming on"

"The windshield wipers wouldn't turn off. Once the shop disabled that they wouldn't let us drive it, for safety reasons."

"Infrequently and unpredictably the shifter lever sensor would not detect the shifter had been moved to Park. This would prevent us from turning the vehicle off. Cycling the shifter would ultimately result in a correct reading. Not covered under power train warranty"

"Hard shifting from second to third, sometimes violent. Noticeable transmission slippage. Scantool shows poorly shifting gears when compared to another Explorer with no problems. Dealer called it normal. Blown output shaft said they were wrong."

"Rear motor mounts and transmission mounts went bad causing the shifting and rough Idle problems. They did replace one spark plug they found was giving a weak condition, but was not causing the rough idle."

"the transmission shifting is very jerky and does not shift smoothly"

"Delay from R to D, with clunkiness feeling and noise"

"Shift was harsh and gears were searching for low speed in traffic"

"When I leave my driveway it is about a quarter mile down a steep hill to a stop sign. After stopping at the stop sign, when I start to pull out sometimes the transmission seems to be in neutral even though it is actually in Drive, other time I pull"

"I live at the top of a steep hill. Occasionally, when I back out of my driveway and put the car in drive, when I get to the bottom of the hill, stop at the stop sign and pull out the car doesn't shift out of 1st gear or the car is in neutral. I have to stop, put the car in park then put in in drive and pull forward. The hill is steep enough that I don't need to press the gas pedal when leaving my home, I break all the way to the bottom of the hill approximately a quarter of a mile. I've menti"

"The software for the transmission has been updated three times and yet it still will not upshift, even after the user has leveled off the acceleration. The only way to make it upshift is to completely lift your foot off the accelerator or to use the shift paddle. Ford has acknowledged that it does it and that it is a problem, but has refused to fix it, because it would take too long to figure out what is wrong and it mostly works correctly. They have also told me they would get an engineer to look at this issue, and they have never followed through. I will never buy another Ford."

"Not sure it is a computer problem but occasionally when I leave my house in the morning the car does not shift out of first gear or even though it is in drive it is actually in neutral. I live on a steep hill so when I back out of my driveway I never have to touch the gas pedal until I get to a stop sign about a half mile away. When I attempt to pull out from that stop sign the car is sometimes in neutral or after I pull out it never shifts out of first gear. The solution is to stop . put the car in park then back in drive and that always works. I've talked to the dealer a few time but they always say it was probably in neutral or manual shift."

"Seals leaked causing vehicle to be operated without trans fluid which caused the slipping and rough shifting"

"The power take off unit was leaking trans fluid"

"When down shifting the transmission would pause for 10 to 15 seconds between gears causing a lurch. Ford replaced a valve in the transmission which fixed the problem"

"When placed in park, vehicle did not think it was in park & had message of such on dash screen. Also would not back up driver seat & move steering wheel, so that driver could easily get out of car"

"Sensor indicated not in park when ity was"

"power steering went out"

"Bearing on top of the strut"

"Struts required replacement at 90000km"

"The vehicle was received with a strut that rattled and snapped. It took several trips to the dealer to get it replaced"

"Travelling with my travel trailer, the front strut broke down, probably whould never happen if I have no trailer"

"Strut mounts were loose causing a clunking noise in the steering"

"Leaking rear shock"

"Had to replace front struts"

"Just started making a clunking noise. Took to dealer and they repaired it under extended warranty"

"Stearing gear had to be replaced 20,000 miles. Took to or regular dealer and they couldn't look at the car to tell me the problem for 2-3 days. Another dealer told me to leave it for 3 weeks. Finally took it to dealer that fixed it in 10 days"

"First it was a power steering failure, now it is torque steering. There is no fix for the system, only putting up with a poor product"

"Electronic steering system failure. $1800 repair. Recall for similar problem with other 2013 Explorer's but Ford would not provide assistance."

"Heard a "clunking" sound on the driver's side. Turned out to be ball joints and torsion bar"

"Popping in front end when running over bumps and turning. Took in for warranty work to replace tie rod ends which resolved problem"

"Driver door handle fell off"

"The rear driver side door remains locked when the driver hits the unlock button. The child locks are not on. The door has to be manually unlocked."

"Driver and rear driver door latches do not recognize that the door is fully closed. Keeps telling me door ajar"

"Rear passenger door was locked and could not be unlocked"

"Driver side door closed sensor problem"

"when cold car will not recognize key.sometimes when warm car will not unlock door"

"Automatic mirrors based on seat memory setting stopped working. This required a replacement of the drivers side mirror"

"Controls stopped working"

"Sunroof shade broken on delivery. Replacement part came in and was also broken. Took a week to make a repair that should not have been necessary"

"lifts to rear tail gate unable to lift door all the way up-ford replaced both under extended warrenty"

"I have corrosion on hood. Ford says they won't do anything about it until there is a hole. I understand they are having major issues with corrosion on aluminum parts and this could end up being a class action law suit. My son owns a body shop and has told me hood needs to be replaced. This would be at my expense since I need a hole for Ford to fix. Not fair"

"Crack in frame at hatch hinge"

"One of my fuel injectors got stuck open and flooded a cylinder sending the vehicle into limp mode. The most shocking thing I heard was the part was on major back order making me think this is a common issue"

"The vehicle began shuddering upon acceleration with no notice. It took two weeks to get it into the Ford dealership for repair. This was the second major repair necessary in the 6 years we have owned the vehicle."

"See previous comments. We only own one 2013 Ford Explorer."

"Ford recall"

"Noticed a lack of power when starting and driving. After a few weeks, thinking it was the battery, took it in to my mechanic. He discovered the male and female pigtail fuel pump was failing. Had it replaced along with the spark plugs and a plenium gasket. Cost: $725"

"The problem was with an emission sensor and the check engine light would come on and stay on even after it was checked out. Frustrating"

"Fuel Vapor sylinoid failed, it took 2 days for diagnosis and repair"

"Gear selector would ask me to place it in park position when I already had it in park position."

"Transfer case suddenly emptied itself of the fluid. The fluid was a black tar looking substance that leaked all over my driveway. The repair consisted of replacing the defective part that should have been part of a recall. It cost over $ 2000.00 for me to have this fixed and the part had to be ordered, which took 4 days to get. On the internet there are many reports of this part failing on several Ford models ."

"Started leaking oil and had to be totally replaced"

"Transmission problem"

"It failed and required replacement"

"Car inoperable"

"Timing belt broke. The timing belt got into the air conditioning system belt causing the air conditioning system to fail also."

"turbo charger completely broke and cost over $2300 to fix it + cost for a rental car."

"Turbo hose cracked/became disconnected"

"Hose came off of turbo causing loss of power"