Ford Five Hundred

"failed. replaced by dealer service dept"

"Cold air when care is moving. Warm air when car is stopped Ford said compressor is NG... ($1400) I think it is a bad valve or relay somewhere. As long as car is in motion you have nice cold air"

"The air conditioning compressor and condenser is manufactured in such a way that my mechanic advised I would have to take it back to the dealership to correct the problem. The problem was resolved with the dealer at a cost of $1600 dollars"

"Compressor needed replacing"

"Air conditioning system failed, the A/C compressor went bad. I elected to replace the whole system, as it was only about twice the amount of just the A/C compressor but I got a new system and it has a lifetime parts & labor warranty"

"I had to replace it"

"Not being a mechanical person I only know that the air condition system actually blew and sent pieces through the system"

"ac compressor failed, was replaced incorrectly, and other valves required replacement"

"compressor leaking had to be replaced"

"Compressor failed after 170000 miles. Installed a new one and recharged system"

"The air conditioner was not keeping the car cool, had my mechanic fix it but not sure what he did"

"The compressor failed at 95000 miles causing replacement of the evaporator and condenser also for a total of about $1000"

"Compressor replaced by Ford dealer. cost $1200 and car has been very well maintained ,with less than 50K miles at the time"

"The a/c cools the car at about any temperature on the highway. In town the a/c is not cold enough on hot days. The a/c is slow to cool the car when I enter it. There may have been some kind of recall. My mom bought the car new and told me about the issue"

"Was told compressor needed to be replaced"

"A/C compressor was replaced due to leaks causing a failure in climate control"

"Compressor began to leak oil"

"A/C compressor seized, burned out the fan belt preventing the alternator from charging the battery during normal use. Unable to get a free spindle bypassing the A/C so spent the money to replace a little used A/C unit"

"blew out and lost all refrigerant and had to be replaced"

"The compressor developed a oil leak at the input shaft. I had the system serviced with oil & Freon and it is still operating fine"

"The A/C Compressor just went to pieces - Required replacement"

"compressor is too expensive to replace ($3000). But I LOVE this car and do not want to replace it! Wish they still made them!"

"COMPRESSOR LEAK COST $599.40 WITH NO WARRANTY"

"Compressor began to rattle, bad bearing."

"After the vehicle experienced a year of greatly reduced driving and a moderate climate, the air conditioning stopped working altogether due to the compressor freezing up. Mechanics were able to fix it by replacing the entire system."

"Noisy pulley and bad drive belt"

"Compressor failed 1 year ago. Not surprising for 14 year old car. Repaired earlier this month, thanks to stimulus payment :)"

"AC stopped working. There was a leak so the compressor wasn't able to cool. The car is almost sixteen years old, so I'm not surprised."

"The air conditioning unit stopped cooling the car and the problem was a failed compressor."

"Stoped working"

"Seal leakage--replaced with an after markwt product"

"The compressor just went out must replace not rebuild"

"rebuild compressor"

"system created a mind of its own by heating when it should be cooling and cooling when it should heating. fan also was unsure what speed it was to operate at"

"See answer to previous question - it's all tied together as one problem - unable to maintain a constant temperature."

"slow speed doesn't work"

"Same a described previously"

"replaced due to potential contamination when compressor failed"

"Had to replace twice in less than 20,000 miles"

"Complete dash cluster failure that required complete replacement at 20K miles"

"Have not repaired it yet"

"Drivers heated seat coil has failed and the Ford dealers expense to repair makes this not worth correcting."

"Drivers seat will not heat"

"This is not a new problem. The car has had the same problem with the heating system ever since it was brand new. No service person was ever able to isolate and solve the problem. When you turn on the heater, it does a fine job - at first. Then, the further you drive the less well it works. If you drive a couple of hours or more in the winter time, you have to continually turn the temperature UP to maintain a halfway pleasant condition. Starting at 72, by the time you've driven a couple of hours or more, the setting needs to be up as far a 88 degrees. This is probably a reason why the mechanic wasn't able to solve the issue - they were never driving it for a long time, and therefore never experienced the problem.. IF you stopped the car - for a longer break than just filling up the gas tank - it seems to reset and you can start over back at the reasonable setting of 72 degrees. But, as I said, it's not a new problem. Has been like this for all 13 years I've owned it."

"I have had refrigerant added twice in a years time"

"AC doesn't cool because refrigerant leaks"

"in dash"

"Need to add refrigerant in summer season for sufficient cooling and run in recirculating mode."

"During heavy rain my car is not garaged) the carpet on the drivers side in the front is damp. I plan on taking the car to the dealer to have the problem fixed"

"Sun roof leaks . hard to align seals"

"Drains in doors are obstructed by the door seals even though the bottoms have channels cut out. Manufacturing defect in my opinion on placement or size of door seals"

"Driver's side floorboard rusted through, probably due to increased use of brine in my are over past 3-4 years"

"water drains from channel,around sunroof, down tubes inside windshield pillars and out at bottom of each door. If I’m not diligent about cleaning out that channel, apparently debris can clog up tubes so water backs up under floor mats."

"When it rains, the rear doors get water in them."

"Water collects in doors. You can hear it sloshing around . Have to lift weather stripping along bottom of doors to allow water to drain out."

"BACK R DOOR LEAKS DUE TO WEATHER STRIPPING FALLING OFF A LONG TIME AGO"

"weather strip on sun roof came loose"

"I think some rubber bushings are worn/gone on the anti-sway -or similar- components. (Maybe control arm or stabilizer bar bushing?) It gives a clunking noise when going over potholes at slow speed that mechanics say is NOT a noise from a CV joint"

"Grinding and squeaking noise in the front end; untraceable rattling somewhere in the back"

"rear suspension area"

"RATTLE MAY BE IN CATALYTIC CONVERTER."

"We have an annoying rattle underneath the car that no one seems to be able to find. Only shows up on rough roads at slow speeds"

"Car was shaking, took it straight into the Ford dealer and they repaired it."

"my grease boots failed at 120000 miles and the only remedy from ford was to replace the entire tie rod, bushings, etc. instead of just the boot. This is stupid from a consumers point of view, but very profitable for FOMOCO"

"Problem was fixed with replacement of old parts."

"replaced when put rebilt rack on"

"A power steering hose was leaking power-steering fluid, making it difficult to turn the steering wheel.The mechanic replaced the hose, filled the power-steering fluid reservoir, and it's been great since."

"Noise from power steering started 1 year ago, got much worse 2 months ago. Expensive to fix."

"After 145000 mile they developed slack that lead to tire ware and vibrations. We lived on a 3 mile dirt road which contributed to this ware"

"front stabilizer bar...also suspension/shocks noise"

"torsion bar broke"

"The anti-sway bars have always made noise in cold weather and now they are actually broken and will need to be replaced. Never had such an issue with previous cars that I have owned."

"A fluid leak. Had to replace the steering rack"

"Same as last entry"

"very hard to steer around corners"

"Tie rods replaced due to normal wear"