Honda Civic Change Vehicle

"Engine light causes you to fail emission tests - regardless of actual emissions. Problems with hybrid battery pack trigger engine light even when the car is running fine and getting 45 mpg"

"The fuel pump physically cracked, because it is plastic and the cost to replace it was over $600.00"

"The Fuel Pump Module / Locking Nut was leaking gas. Dealer told me it was a problem that they new happened often so was replaced with an new upgraded unit that is supposed to be stronger and wont crack"

"Failed cat indicator fixed by replacing o2 and air fuel sensor"

"My mileage was bad replaced the O2 sensor my mileage went back up"

"Needs to be changed ever year"

"Engine light/lo2 sensor the reason needed replacement"

"Check engine light on, dealer replaced the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors"

"We have had the check engine/ima lights coming on for the past 3 years. Everything the dealership supposedly fixes the problem but it always comes back"

"had to replace emissions control devices, including O2 sensors, at 240000 miles. O2 sensors previously replaced at around 120000"

"The catalytic converter will need to be replaced soon"

"Replaced the O2 sensor twice and then the dealer told us to just live with the check-engine light on, since they could not fix the problem"

"Caused car to stall on freeway"

"Received emission contol codes P0301, P0302, P0303, P0300, P1457"

"For ~8 years, my engine warning light will stay lit for the full time the car is in operation. OBD-!II analysis gives code P0122 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit Low Input." This is apparently a fairly common problem with my model y"

"The fuel door would not open due to the cable breaking near spot where you pull level inside driver side door"

"I did not notice the problem, but trusted my mechanic who told me it was hesitating"

"Car had overheating and loss of coolant. Overheating was erratic, gage read hot then cooled off. After several misdiagnoses, head gasket was the culprit"

"The head gasket failed in a way that caused overheating problems at odd times, such as on a trip after driving 400 miles with no problem. The problem manifested itself in little ways for a couple of years before the gasket finally blew"

"Lost all antifreeze which was because of blown head gasket. Had to do a major repair which costs $1300"

"Problem found during routine maintenance"

"During wintertime,the heater wasn't working...i was told by Honda that the head gasket was "leaking" and had to be replaced asap"

"had to be replaced"

"Unexpected expense and downtime"

"After having timing belt and water pump replaced, the head gasket failed, stranding us on a remote freeway in 110 degree heat"

"Evidently head gasket leaking into combustion chamber as one spark plug discolored orange, same color as antifreeze. engine running very rough. could be coils"

"Had a problem with the thermostat. Dealership said was normal. Turned out engine was not cooling properly and resulted in a blown head gasket"

"Purchased the car cheap previous owner had owned the car for 8 years and didn't remember changing the timing belt. Did complete service correcting several issues. Vetec system did not work right valves had to be adjusted. Thermostat was stuck open and engine would not reach proper operating temp. Replaced water pump when doing the timing belt per recommended specs"

"Normal maintenance"

"small oil leak, my son drove it without oil and the engine sized. Engine rebuild or engine replacement the only options"

"This car has been exceedingly expensive to own and maintain. The engine required being rebuilt after 1600000 miles, totally unsatisfactory"

"Timing belt covers are fragile and I had to replace the lower half during the otherwise ordinary timing belt replacement I did at home. Also replaced the water pump even though there was no problem at this time"

"tthis is not nece4ssary on many cars. 'Why this one?"

"A slightly warped rotor was the trigger for the vibration problem I described before. A rusted caliper didn't quite fully retract a brake pad, and repeated contact with the pad heated the rotor, making the warping and vibration worse. Not knowing the cause of the shimmy at the time, I had the car towed to a repair shop"

"std brake job"

"brake pads had worn away, rotors were scored and needed to be re-machined"

"They just needed to be replaced due to wear"

"There was no audible or visual (instruments) indication that the brake pads were low enough to score the rotors - expensive!"

"Regardless of the quality of brake rotor I chose, as well as my driving habits, the rotors suffer from more rust and corrosion than any car I've owned"

"When driving at highway speed, the car jerks when the brake is applied. Not sure if its warped rotors or the brakes. Am about to take it to Honda for a check"

"Needed to be replaced due to wear"

"Brake pads were replaced and brakes are working fine"

"Brake pads were worn (front or rear, not both)"

"Replacement of breaks with a part not made by Honda and it made a tapping sound at 30 MPH. Problem solved when part was replaced by a Honda part"

"Upon state safety inspection, one rear wheel was not locked with parking brake on. Brake adjustment was not working, and had to be repaired"

"Warning light comes on even though catalytic converter is working fine"

"need to replace Catalytic converter"

"error code P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). Spent $550 on new catalytic converter, code came back on a year later"

"The muffler rusted out and has become detached"

"Muffler/pipes were replaced due to rusting. They fell apart"

"Changed due to age"

"sounds like the A pipe is now cracked, a honda specialist said that it used to happen to old integras. Being double-walled, the inner pipe rattles against the outer one when accelerating above 2000 rpms"

"I needed them replaced du to age of the car"

"Exhaust manifold cracked with less than 100, 000km. Since catalytic converter and exhaust manifold are one, had to replace both"

"Somehow got a crack in the manifold. started affecting mpg"

"Cracked manifold. Needed to be replaced. Replacement part include catlytic converter, thus expensive"

"Leaks from antenna fixture at top center of roof just behind windshield"

"Water comes in from somewhere on passenger side. Has been to body shop twice but still leaks"

"hood latch assembly had to be replaced because it was having metal fatigue"

"I have no idea what causes the noise, but it seems to come from under the left side of the engine. The brakes make a terrible noise. I know they need to be repaired"

"Irritating rattle in passenger side dashboard vent"

"factory installed moon roof now rattling but seals seem intact"

"Rear anti-roll bar links"

"Front & rear inner & outer stabilizer links & bushings had to be replaced"

"door window seals seem to allow wind noise inside cabin now where it never did before"

"Dealer sealed under warranty"

"second alternator failure since new"

"Battery drained, possibly due to peripherals not being turned off/unplugged. AAA recharged and it's been working OK for more than six months"

"Ignition cylinder had to be replaced"

"spark plug comes loose and the engine developes a smell"

"getting lots of misfire codes and random misfire codes. do not know why"

"Hybrid battery died June 2011; cannot afford to fix ($4,000) so the car sits in the driveway"

"Battery has been out of specs for at least the past 2-3 years (after out of warranty). Mileage has been affected little, and I'm certain that if tested vehicle would easily pass the EPA standards; however, testing center states emission levels are ir"

"Gas engine runs very rough after warm and when idling. System to shut down gas engine does not shut down when idling for long period. Car hesitates for 1 - 2 secs when moving from stop to go. Car "lurches" when moving at low speed, like in a parking"

"I had problems getting the starter to work properly. O couldn't get the repairs done to my satisfaction until I had a former student look at it (not a licensed mechanic. He not only fixed this problem but also a problem I had with the MIV and body re"

"Carbon buildup on the rings in two Cylinders caused excessive oil use. Carbon buildup was due to misfires caused by EGR passages being clogged"

"Car started hesitating at high speeds on highway. Wouldn't go over 40. Engine light on. Oil was nearly empty. Never found out why but adjusted enough so it is manageable"

"vtech solenoid gasket failed at top rear passenger side of engine"

"Constant oil leakage and usage. Even after the rebuild"

"I lose about a quart a month"

"gasket leak. nothing major"

"Bolt holding valve cover breather rusted, causing oil leak. Tech advised bolt head could shear off if try to remove it due to condition & location, which could result in costly need to remove entire engine to fix; using glue to hold cover in place"

"oil leak requiring 2000$ repair"

"gasket leaking oil"

"ERG Vale was stuck. $600 to replace. Had to update computer, another $200"

"It has always been hard to get into 1st gear, especially when rolling, for the 11 years I've owned this car. Double-clutching, even from stop, helps a bit. My brother has a 2001 Civic LX with the same problem"

"repair of the transmission reverse idler gear and 1/2 hub gear set"

"Started slipping infrequently at about 90,000 miles. Internet says this is very common. I'm not sure how serious a safety issue this is"

"Was told to replace the transmission because of slippage but was able to limp by with a better transmission fluid and can't drive it on interstate anymore or at high speeds. Have to baby it during shifting"

"replaced transmission at 70K miles after many flushes. 2d transmission started same problems at 80K miles and I'm told it should be replaced. Will donate the car soon in view of all the other problems"

"This car has had a "slipping transmission" for the past 5 years. The dealership flushed the transmission and it helped for a couple of months but it always comes back"

"the stick shift jiggles sometimes while driving"

"Computer needed to be updated"

"locks don't work"

"Locks keep breaking internally. Keys no longer work. driver side lock broken 3 times @ $200 each repair. Ignition lock broken too! Cost of repair and replacement keys $900. Keys for car and house key only keys on ring. I have never found anyone else"

"Front seat belts don't roll back into taught position upon release when exiting car. This is causing the belt's metal insert to get closed in door jam--sometimes breaking the light switch. Been like this since 8 years of ownership"

"SRS failure light came on and stayed on. Repaired by dealer as a silent recall"

"All of the windows work properly. The drivers switch to control the passengers side front seat window does not work"

"front passenger power window has had a few problems rolling up and down. the local dealer repair shop is very, very good and they have fixed it but it is still a little difficult"

"Power window in back won't go up or down"

"One touch automatic roll down on driver side gets stuck"

"door switch / buzzer to warn you of headlights on isn't working"

"Warning lights come on for no reason. Airbag light has been on for some time, even after Dealer completed recall service for airbags"

"The passenger side airbag comes on and off periodically, and now stays on longer and longer. I only have a passenger in the car about 2x a month. The only "heavy" object I place on the passenger seat is my purse, which weighs up to 5 lbs"

"The airbag light won't go off"

"Headlight bulb burned out. Had mechanic replace"

"They would not turn on in cold weather"

"HIGH MOUNT BREAK LIGHT IN REAR WINDOW HAD TO BE REPLACED"

"needed a NEW transmission"

"Transmission failed..replaced with a trains from a newer(29000 miles),wrecked Civic"

"Honda replaced at about 100k miles. No charge to us"

"The transmission started failing at 168000 kilometres. It was replaced with a rebuilt transmission (automatic). Total cost was $4000 Canadian"

"The car is making a grinding sound. My trusted mechanic tested it and said the transmission will fail in the next 6-12 months"

"the transmission went right after the warranty wore out. honda did nothing. took it to a shop replaced the transmission and clutch. never a problem since. best car ever!!!"

"Radiator developed a small leak at the top seam. Wasn't going to run out of coolant any time soon, but with summer coming I thought it best to replace the radiator. Plus I was getting tired of the maple-syrup anti-freeze smell in the garage"

"portion of radiator has failed. car overheats at low speeds in summer"

"Car ran rough and died. Thermostat needed replacement"

"We discovered the issue only happened with me when I had a key chain with multiple keys but was not a problem for my husband and mechanic who only used one key to start the car. The car would just cut off as I was driving off the road--I would hear a"

"Wear and tear partially due to driving style"

"I had repairs of over $2000 which is a lot. On the other hand, considering the age of the car and how reliable it has run this far, it wasn't surprising"