Honda Civic Change Vehicle

“The fabric came unglued three years ago on the left side passenger door. The dash in the back seat cracked and deteriorating since seven years ago and is now so fragile if touched if falls apart”

“The paint started fading in spots. I brought the car to the Honda dealer I purchased the car from. I was told that there was a recall on the paint problem but it expired and there was nothing they could do. This recall involved black paint. I will never purchase a Honda product again”

“paint fading on the roof and trunk”

“Paint is peeling badly. And Rusty in the flaws. We have no garage so it gets a lot of sun”

“The paint around the mirrors that is never even touched has cracked and peeled off”

“paint on hood is chipping off and rusting on hood”

“Cheap paint job. Paint has cracked much like a dried lake bed. The clear coat, if there were one, appears to have dissipated completely”

“Right now the peeling of paint is happening on the bumper strips on the 2 sides”

“Clearcoat failure”

“Paint on hood top and trunk lid oxidizing”

“I scratched the paint at corners while parking into a garage”

“The paint has been fading and cracking since 2009 and has worsened. The hood is practically all faded. The right side above the doors is almost there also. The left side is not as bad but starting to it seems”

“rusting sooner than expected (worse than my 2000 civic)”

“Rust started in the rear wheel wells”

“Rust under driver door”

“It started making awful noises took it to the dealer and they said it is the compressor, they unplugged it until we decide if we are going to put 1,200 dollars in it to fix it”

“a/c failed to work, made terrible noises. Cost $2000 to repair”

“I don't know if compressor is the riht problem. Just remember it was expensive to get the cooling to work again. Stillg cools weakly, but acceptable”

“Compressor clutch failed and seized up disabling vehicle until repaired”

“The air conditioner does not blow cold air”

“AC just died about a year ago - would be $250 just to diagnose so haven't had that done”

“In the heat when the car is exposed to the sun, the air conditioner does not work. If the car is in the shadows or garage, it works”

“The directional blower component does not work”

“The fan/blower stopped working. I had it fixed at a Honda dealership and within 10 miles there was no cold air”

“the tube inside was clogged. The mechanic replaced the tube and it now works”

“The systes stopped projecting heat/air from below the dashboard”

“Refrigerant was low enough to affect performance. Dealer could not find leak but did add a dye. So far, refrigerant levels are at expected levels”

“Had refrigerant recharged once while in-warranty, and twice while out-of-warranty”

“Engine light came on. Wasn't loose gas cap. Required diagnosis, then replacement of front air flow ratio sensor”

“02 sensor keeps throwing code and turning on light. replace it once already and not sure if i need to replace it again”

“O2 sensor went bad, but the car had over 200,000 miles on it. It was expected soon”

“The sensor failed...cost $450 to fix..my response "forget it!"”

“Secondary O2 sensor failure. Hybrid battery failure after 9 years”

“Engine check light on. Monitored for 10 days. In to dealership. Ran code check. O2 sensor failed. Replacement was $750 Cdn incl labor”

“O2 sensor failed, indicated by Engine Light. No apparent effect on drivability. Honda dealer quickly diagnosed it, and replaced it shortly afterwards. Cost more than I expected”

“replaced several times”

“Code P1457 Internal failure of Evap canister vent control valve and purge solenoid - tech replaced”

“The Check Engine light comes on. After a trip to the dealer, who finds nothing wrong, the light goes off until the next time. This has happened 4 times”

“Check Engine light came on - indicated Evap Leak. Needed new Evap Canister Assembly, Fuel Vent Module and some kind of valve”

“i,vereplaced several devices, several times”

“fogging, we replaced them”

“Lights flickered when idling. Required new alternator”

“Head lights yellowed and had to be restored”

“Auto locks no longer work”

“I had to replace the automatic door lock actuator in both rear doors after they failed”

“the emergency lights went on when the alarm system was activated with the panic button and drained the battery”

“$160 repair for tag lights”

“had to replace exterior brake light and left reverse light”

“intermittent problems of not working”

“Airbag light is on and stays lit when as far as I know there is no problem with the airbag”

“Check engine light comes on, but no discernible issue”

“clutch slipping; needs replacement”

“They say after burnishing paid by me that the starter clutch needs replacement. Cost $2500”

“Honda issued a recall on the slipping transmissions, the dealership has been reluctant to repair the problem, only solution has been to consistently have the fluid replaced as this is all the dealer wants to do. Not ideal problem solving”

“Judders (Honda term for CVT problem)”

“Starting from stop caused slippage and loud noises”

“Problem was identified by HONDA during an oil change”

“transmission leaks can only be fixed with a rebuild of the transmission”

“After rebuilt, clutch engages too low”

“Needed a complete flush of the transmission system to fix chatter when starting forward motion. The flush fixed the problem”

“I don't really understand hydraulics”

“The camshaft position sensor died and needed to be replaced. Less than a year later, I think it needs to be replaced again”

“Leaks at oil pump and oil pan due to gasket failure causing a loss of 1/2 at. per 2500 miles”

“rear main seal leak starting around 120000 miles”

“Noticeable grinding noise while turning the steering wheel. It was an oil leak which required a new replacement part and oil for the steering wheel. Expensive repair which the mechanic missed the first time (3 months earlier) I complained about the same noise”

“Pan was rusted”

“seal around the bottom part of the oil pan (I forget the name) was leaking. Had to be replaced and was a 4+ hour job due to curing time for the new seal”

“Multiple engine oils seals failed around the 100,000 mile mark and are proving costly to replace ($1600 by the dealership!). Oil has leaked all over my engine as well as the timing belt that was only replaced 2 years ago”

“front engine mount broken”

“Interior lock switch quit working. Can only lock/unlock with remote”

“I have to use my key to unlock the driver's door. Then I can use the remote fob to open the backseat doors. To lock the 3 doors I have to use the key. The front passenger door can only be opened with a key. To lock I push down its button”

“Power windows would not go up. Retired with new switches needed”

“rear passinger window up and down not working from drivers side control”

“Electrical system malfunction required replacing electrical harness”

“Seat bushings failed”

“gas cover release failed”

“Replaced Batteries twice under warranty. Third time (140,00 miles) they would not cover the battery. We have not performed the repairs”

“Had to replace the battery as the check engine light indicated issue.. At the time had driven 190000 miles so was not totally unexpected. No other real issues with the car other than normal maintenance for everything else”

“Hybrid battery failed ONCE while under warranty. Failed AGAIN after warranty expiration”

“Battery died and hybrid system did not work”

“Engine cylinder coil caused misfiring of cylinder #3. Coil replaced as well a spark plugs”

“when turning key in ignition, just hear clicking noises. after waiting 30 to 45 minutes, car would start. took car to dealer (once) and then AAA-approved mechanic--both found nothing wrong. After 3rd experience with engine not turning over, took back”

“Check engine light code gave me cause to change the catalytic converter”

“Very unusual LOUD rattling at specific engine speeds. My mechanic discovered the honeycomb core was loose inside of the converter housing. Replacement installed at $650. Expensive due to the fact that the Civic model we own was built to meet Calif”

“Lots rusted through causing it and the heat shield to be dislodged”

“rusted out”

“We noticed that the Civic was louder than normal. We took it to our mechanic who diagnosed a hole in the muffler, which he replaced”

“Exhaust pipe broke over rear axle. I fixed it myself”

“Transmission failed and required a complete disassembly and rebuild”

“Just needed to be rebuilt”

“Honda knew of a problem, but didn't contact us. Our local repair shop told us the problem, and we had to take car to dealer. Although our car was under mileage for repair, they didn't honor agreement because of class-action suit. Had to pay $2100”

“Transmission suddenly stopped working. All gears forward and backwards would not engage. Had to replace transmission and flywheel. The flywheel was cracked”

“The car stalled -- seemed to be a transmission problem. Instead, the dealer replaced the transmission FlyWeel, which at least made the car function again”

“Two years ago, 2-3 mos. after warranty ran out, I experienced shutter clutch. I kept getting worse. Honda would not replace. I did not like the $3,000-4,000 to replace from local transmission company. Finally last month, (3/15), the same garage o”

“twice i had a leak of the water pump. The second time i did not have to pay for”

“driver side door leaks”

“My car started making a wide variety of noises (primarily due to the brakes): i) a squeak when letting go of the brakes, ii) a thumping sound from the brakes when making a sharp turn, iii) louder engine noise”

“when car is moving there are squeaks from the suspension”

“Catalytic Converter Clamp”

“odd rattle coming from rear of car I think it is suspension related”

“some kind of sensor in engine needed replacing”

“I was leaking coolant. It only overheated when I drove for extended amounts of time and then idled”

“Local mechanic said antifreeze/collant leak is due to head gasket issue”

“Fan switch went out w/o warning. Only indication was overheating followed by coolant loss”

“Hybrid electrical system failed at 69000 miles”

“Hybrid Motive battery failure. This is the original battery pack”

“Had to replace the Integrated Motor Assist (IMA) battery. This was not unexpected at 9 years old and about 175,000 miles, but it was expensive. I consider this a maintenance cost”