Honda Civic Change Vehicle

“Leaking”

“My car was just a couple months past the free repair by Honda for a cracked engine block when it cracked. It was due to a known manufacturing defect and they had extended the warranty a few times, but because mine happened after the 10-year limit, they refused to replace the engine block for free or even give a discount. This issue was known to Honda when I bought the car but no one informed me about it and it did not show in any of the searches for issues when I researching it before I bought t”

“Cracked engine block replaced under warranty”

“cracked block due to manufacturing defect.....not covered by extended Honda warranty”

“Cracked engine block, needed to replace engine”

“civic engine block cracked and engine was replace with a secret warranty by the dealer”

“Our civic fell victim to having a suspect engine block that could without warning develop cracks that of course immobilized it without warning”

“Cracked engine block per known Honda issue. Honda would not stand by their mistake and fix”

“Car overheated, took to local repair shop, block was cracked. They discovered Honda had a service bulletin/recall 10-048 for engine, had car towed to Honda dealership, they replaced block. Car appears to be ok now”

“cracked block resulted in overheating. Engine replaced under warranty, no argument !”

“The engine block cracked right below the 100,000 mile mark. Fortunately, Honda had an extended warranty on this part due to this problem, and I had the engine block replaced at no cost, just some inconvenience”

“Cracked lock. Replaced on recall”

“Engine block cracked and was replaced. This was a known problem and luckily the warranty was extended to 8 years on the engine and covered the repair”

“Cracked engine block. Honda replaced free of charge”

“Manufacturer's defect: crack developed in the engine block that caused the coolant to leak out and overheat the engine. Honda replaced the engine block under a 10 year extended warranty for Honda Civics from 2006-2009”

“The car failed with NO warning, and was towed. "Known Defect" cracked engine block. Dealer will replace block, but charges $2,000 for additional damage due to "overheating" ...car absolutely NOT driven in an overheated condition. Could easily have be”

“crack in engine block. Honda paid for engine rebuild as it was a warranty extended on my model and year”

“The engine body cracked and Honda replaced it for free. They said that is known to happen in some cars and they covered it, which I thought was great. This would have cost ~$4500.-”

“Engine suddenly overheated. Engine block was damaged but was covered under a recall. Honda paid all replacement expenses including diagnostics and tow charges”

“These issues were all related to the overheating problem”

“With 177,000 miles on the car, the block cracked. Honda installed a new short block under an extended warranty at no cost to me”

“Cracked engine block. Honda had extended the warrantee of the engine block due to problems with in this model year. They replaced the engine block - no charge to us. The crack caused a coolant leak and overheating problem. Totally fixed now”

“during the night the engine lost all of the oil on garage floor. there was no warning. the car was towed and repaired the next day by the dealer I had purchased the car from. it took the dealer 2 days to replace. did a great job, no problems since”

“Cracked engine block”

“Cracked engine block at less than 80,000 miles”

“The engine block cracked and was replaced”

“Cracked engine block”

“a short block engine was installed under a TSB as the block had a crack, determined to be a factory defect”

“The engine actually cracked and needed to be replaced. Honda was aware that this was a problem and replaced the engine for free”

“Developed crack in engine block and began leaking fluid. Rebuilt/replace by Honda at no charge but considerable down time”

“Since the engine did implode at55000 miles..the whole engine assembly was involved. Due to some poor workmanship after the new engine was installed, we experienced serpentine belt and pulley malfunctions”

“Had to be replaced when the engine was rebuilt because of leakage”

“This wasn't the timing belt, and I don't know if it was an accessory belt, but had to have the serpentine belt & mount replaced”

“Worn--had to be replaced”

“Worn out after almost 2 years, but they are aftermarket, not OEM”

“lft front froze up because of rust”

“Replaced because were worn”

“Rt rear caliper dragging”

“the calipers fell off”

“Parking brake has not worked for several years”

“Parking brake does not work and would cost $700 to fix so doing without”

“Had the Honda dealer change my brakes 3 times in 90 days. No charge but still time consuming”

“Honda has a brake design defect for this model of Civic and has already settled a lawsuit regarding same. I was replacing my brakes every 10 to 12000 miles. I feel lucky that I got 27000 miles this time. I've never had a car go through brakes the way this car has. I cost me another $180.00 just this morning for front brake pads”

“Brakes had to be replaced”

“breaks wore out prematurely three times within a one year period. on one of those repairs, the calipers required replacing”

“Rear arm defective. Had to replace and replace tires because of premature wear. Honda eventually pair for some a repair because of class action settlement”

“Have found on several message boards that my car is not the only one from this year and model. Replaced brake pads at around 36000 miles”

“They wore out and I had them replaced at 98,000 miles”

“worn--had to be turned”

“Worn out in less than 2 years, but they are aftermarket units, not OEM”

“I replaced the rotors when I replaced the rear brake pads”

“Needed to resurface the rotors twice”

“Too many noises”

“Shocks are wearing out”

“I experienced some cracking/squeaking when backing up and had to have rotors and pads replaced”

“Brakes would squeak even when they were brand new”

“My husband says the squeaking is due to the brakes going bad”

“Dealer noticed front pads needed replacing”

“need new brakes one was way off and wear off inside rear right side. had to replace the rotter”

“Replaced rear brakes and drums. Normal wear and tear”

“spongy brakes”

“Standard during inspection”

“The mechanic said there is no way to save the rotors when the brakes wear because they are thin”

“just routine brake maintenance pads, rotors”

“Headlights both apparently out 5/10/15; one was bulb replacement, other was loose connection. Bulb expensive because of access thru wheel well ($45)”

“The wiring harness and switch that turned on brake lights was broken. The only reason we found out the brake lights didn't work was that we could not get the car into Drive without a struggle, finally only by using the "emergency" release switch near the gear shift. We had struggled with this for years not realizing it was the switch. was bad. Looking back, this was very dangerous. It would also have been extremely expensive if we needed to have the whole wiring harness replaced, but our wonderf”

“The third brake light panel was out. The Internet research that I did seemed to indicate that this is a fairly common problem due to a defective solder joint. I should note that the light worked in cold weather, but would stop working after lighting two or three times. It would not work at all in hot weather. The dealer didn't seem to be aware of a manufacturing defect and I had to have the unit replaced. This was relatively expensive because it is not easily accessible”

“Failure of rear brake light, (LED strip) with intermittent periods where it works, so it is not simply a failure of LED strip/bulbs. Dealer says it would cost a lot to diagnose it, (they don't seem to know why this problem is occurring)”

“High (3rd) brake light failed. It's an LED light which cost about $100 to have replaced”

“The rear center brake light is intermitted. It first works when the car is started and driven. Then after about ten minutes it stops lighting when the brakes are applied. It is a LED bar system and not a single replaceable light bulb. The dealers”

“Interior lights are intermittent. Getting it looked at next week”

“In-dash lights for A/C, defroster, etc., have begun burning out”

“The wipers have been doing the following at times for at least 3 years. Do not stop unless I turn off the engine. Do not always work intermittently, instead they will go 3 or 4 times then stop completely or sometimes go non stop. They will stop on their own sometimes in the middle of the windshield”

“The wipers won't turn off sometimes unless I turn the engine off. Other times the wipers will stop mid screen without any warning. The intermittent setting just keeps going like the regular setting. This has been going for a few years. I would like”

“When turned off will not always return to down position”

“wiper motor assembly replaced”

“intermittent wiper stopped working properly, would do double or triple wipes in colder weather”

“My phone charger blew the fuse or burned out the cigarette lighter”

“Alarm sounds occasionally for no reason”

“The wiring harness had to be replaced. It took three trips to the dealer to solve this problem. The only thing that was actually needed was proper installation of a thermostat, that is a cold and then hot start to properly reboot the computer”

“the button on the steering stopped working, had to be replaced. It worked if you held it down... :)”

“cruise control on/off button broke in off position”

“the power lock on the rear passenger side of the car failed one year after purchase. We considered the cost of the repair too high, so it is still not fixed”

“Both rear doors lock and left front door actuators had to be replaced”

“Fob has fallen apart without sustaining trauma”

“The emission warning light came on 3 times before the car was properly repaired”

“Failed to start--starter replaced”

“wouldn't start intermittently”

“Started stopped working in minus zero weather. The problem appeared to be battery”

“Had to replace starter with rebuilt starter $391”

“Needed replacement”

“Starter died”

“Started died and needed replacement”

“Car wouldn't start. Battery was charged and didn't make a difference. I had to be towed to the dealer. Ended up paying for a rental car for a day. Total cost for rental, starter and work was about $600”

“Starter failed and needed to be replaced”

“The starter died”

“Failed and was replaced”

“Battery failed - not original equipment to car. Had it replaced”

“Hybrid battery failed. Was replaced under warranty”

“poor charging, battery replaced”

“I just sort of goes out and costs $3,000 to replace. It's been replaced once on this car (under warranty at the time) and is starting to go, again. Since the car is barely worth that, I'll probably try to unload it, rather than fix it”

“Very disapointed in Honda Hybrid. This is the 3rd battery in this car. The last one only lasted 2 years, but they wouldn't warranty it since I drove barely over 36,000 miles before the warning light came on. At over $3500 for a "refurbished" battery”

“Failure”

“Battery light came on; Honda replaced battery because warranty had been extended”

“The hybrid battery pack does not hold a charge well, and has declined significantly in the past year. Most power now comes from the gas engine”

“Hybrid battery indicators show errors on dashboard, but computers show its fine. It still charges when braking & coasting, but also has rapid discharge. Still achieving ~40mpg Noticeable more in the extreme cold vs warmer weather. Will buy again!!”

“Stopped working and ejecting disks”

“player won't play or eject cd”

“Player will not accept disc”

“Disc became lodged in the CD Player and can not be removed without disassembling the dashboard to reach the CD Player. The cost of this repair work is too high, with the potential that the CD unit may have to be replaced”

“The LED display goes blank a lot of times and is hard to see in bright sunlight now”

“Sound system has intermittent issues where it switches between AM, FM and CD without my intervention. Other times, there is a loud popping like short”

“I have a warranty replacement radio that is bad after 4-5 years. Honda will not stand up to their own warranty replacement. Honda treats their cars like junkets. A good company gone down”

“If you push to change the station on steering wheel it either doesn't do anything or changes the voume”

“Honda's in-dash navigation system on this vehicle has proven very unreliable. It "crashes" without explanation in the middle of navigation to a destination. Getting it to function again essentially requires "rebooting" it”

“Map joystick operation for traversing the map manually failed. Only works in one direction”

“The upper righthand joystick no longer works correctly. it is used to scroll/move the map in any direction to see when the highlighted route will go. It limits the navagational map features when using the device”

“The speakers are muffled with the GPS directions, very difficult to understand. We primarily use GPS on our phones now”

“The Front right speaker went out and the Honda dealer fixed it for @ $90.00”

“all speakers except for front passenger have failed. cones are damaged and need replaced”

“Based on the mileage it was an expected problem”

“Loss of power when accelerating”

“I'm a spirited driver... so these issues were caused by the driver”

“At 183,000 miles had the manual transmission replaced, cost was $2,300 at the dealer. Very good on the original transmission on the car”

“I had to replace the original manual transmission due to an undetermined component failure at 60,000 miles. Replaced with rebuilt transmission with 59,000 certified miles. While the transmission was being replaced, it was recommended by the independe”

“transmission kept slipping out of gear”

“Loss of Reverse gear”

“I have a extend warranty, and I have major transmission problems Slipping Flaring of gears. And the dealership and Honda refuse to repair. I have these problem for 3 years been into many time at least 7 times. Even when my transmission fuild was d”

“Transmission went out and had to be replaced”

“has a rattle in rear like a loose shock but can find nothing wrong have replaced rear struts still have problem”

“A lot of unidentified rattles that come and go”

“Upon turning a hard left at low speeds, usually on a uneven surface, there was a squeaking sound. Mechanic (not Honda) couldn't find anything except that I had a crack in a strut. He said I could probably keep driving with it a long time. ??”

“There is a lot of engine noise in the cabin of the car. Air seals no longer keep the wind noise out”

“For 160,000 miles, I would say the noises are expected”

“This is a very noisy car. The seals and weatherstripping are not adequate to cut down on road and wind noise”

“It's not so much wind noise as it is road noise. My civic is a very noisy car and I commute 44 miles round trip daily. If it wasn't for the gas mileage I'm getting, I'd dump this car in a heart beat”

“Seals on windows and doors no longer keep wind noise out”

“Wind noise is VERY bothersome/loud in this vehicle with doors and windows closed”

“Muffler/pipe failure occurred and needed to be replaced”

“Clips that hold the muffler on broke and the muffler and pipes basicaly just fell off the car”

“flange broke on the mount for the muffler, where it connects to the catalytic convertor”

“rusted, broken off”

“Had to replace muffler after 100,000mi, understandable but $541 was expensive”

“Muffler has a hole in it after 9 years”

“exhaust pipe after the muffler corroded away and had to be replaced”

“Muffler fell off due to rusty, corroded pipes. Replaced muffler and pipe”

“Diagnostics showed that catalytic converter needed to be replaced at approx 155500 miles”

“Latch that opens gas lid & trunk is defective, will not open gas access door”

“No problem other than the paint issue”

“Three of four automatic window units have failed (in down position, of course!) and needed to be replaced”

“rear window will not go up or down”

“Passenger side window does not work”

“Front passenger side window, probably the motor, stopped working, looked for bad fuses or a bad switch, then later the rear drivers side stopped working”

“Electric opening of windows”

“Driver's side rear lock quit working and had to be replaced”

“The key lock for the trunk does not work and has not worked for about the last 4-5 years. I can only open the trunk from the inside pull latch. Can not replace the key lock because it won't match my key and because of cost”

“It's the most important of several defects in my Honda. Others included poorly designed front window sun blockers that repeatedly break”

“Replaced broken engine mount”

“Two septate oil leaks that cost over $1000 each to repair”

“Oil plug has stripped threads from dealer and third party oil changes”

“brake line leaking”

“I has leaked oil from some gasket. Honda dealership had me change out a gasket they claimed was the root of the problem, but it still leaked. So I put up with oil on my garage floor. Not happy!”

“Oil drips on driveway. Assuming it is oil and that seals need to be replaced”

“Check OIL message; oil down a quart, but no actual oil LEAK found in parking area. No further problems since (few months back)”

“car is literally bouncing down the road. Don't know if its shocks, struts or something more serious”

“Alternator as well as starter replaced in one year”

“Hybrid battery replacement. Covered under extended warranty”

“Starter motor needed replacement”

“Hybrid battery failure was replaced under extended warranty”

“after been checked three times, they finally replaced the alternator (battery had been replaced within the previous month)”

“The drive batteries which run the engine assist electric motor went bad about a month before warranty ran out”

“The overheating occured just before the engine was replaced”

“This was a known problem by Honda, there when we purchased the car from the dealer. Oil and water systems mixed somehow. Initially we had to pay $2,500 to fix the issues. Later Honda took responsibility and recalled/reimbursed us. Very frustrating”

“Sensor went bad and was hard to diagnose”

“need to replace transmission honda will not fix eveneven that it under warranty”

“needed to pass az emissions testing”