Honda Odyssey

"If you lock the vehicle with the inside lock button and the back sliding door open the alarm will go off after the sliding door closes. All doors must be closed to use the inside lock button to lock the vehicle"

"Door Lock System and Power Door Motors have a mind of their own and repeated repair attempts haven't vanquished the demons"

"$1200 for a piece of plastic is a ridiculous price"

"light not working"

"back brake light"

"circuit board and related computer for gauge lights failed. Total cost labor and parts $1002"

"Have had to change driver side headlight multiple times in spite of correct installation (making sure bulb is not touched my skin/wearing plastic gloves, etc)"

"headlights stopped functioning - high beams worked OK running lights were OK but 3 service calls later and 3 hours a part was changed and it functioned OK"

"instrument bulbs burned out"

"LED lights in the dashboard keep failing one by one"

"You did not give a box for "electric sliding doors" which I have had MAJOR issues with. The driver side passenger door cannot be used because it will intermittently not close. Some of the interior lights not working with the door opening sensors"

"interior light does not come on when right slider is open"

"Dash board lights burnt out"

"Back lighting issues in the HVAC Temperature Control Knob as well as the dashboard clock module required both units to be replaced as sockets that hold bulbs eroded. Spent over $500 to make sure i could tell the time and see the HVAC controls at night"

"Overhead light controls broke during normal user. Have had to replace interior instrument light bulbs over 10 times (clock, light / other lighted controls)"

"The inside lights vary in the length of time they stay on. It can be anywhere from less than 30 seconds up to 5 minutes. There is no way to know what will happen. It is like they have a mind of their own......very frustrating"

"We must lock and unlock both driver and passenger front doors manually"

"The Keyless entry and power door locks on the drivers door hasn't worked in a couple of years. It seems this is a known issue with control model on the passenger side. this looks to be a design issue as the board burns up a trace on the electronics board."

"driver door was shut hard on seat belt buckle, which resulted in the door ajar light on and a drain on the battery causing the battery to go dead on two separate occasions- once with a brand new battery"

"idiot lights go on and off by themselved"

"WIPER MOTOR BROKE REQUIRED REPLACEMENT"

"washer pump stopped working. needed to be replaced"

"Plastic water liens crystalize"

"rear window washer has failed"

"The controls on the wiper arm got stuck and were very difficult to move. Had to replace the entire control unit"

"Engine Mount was broken"

"both mounts wore out"

"one is broken and one is cracked. Quoted $700+ for repairs"

"All three motor mounts needed replaced"

"All engine mounts needed to be replaced"

"Bolts fell out. When accelerating, vehicle would pull to right, then left when finished. 1st mechanic could not (would not?) find problem. Considered MAJOR safety concern"

"Engine mounts failing because of age of car. Found by noise it caused."

"Broken mount needed to be replaced"

"Leak from oil pump which will require an expensive repair bill due to its location and labor to get to it and replace it"

"Leaking valve cover gasket"

"Valve cover gaskets were leaking. Had replaced"

"Oil "seep" in engine while running (not on floor in garage). Results in being 1-2 quarts low at oil change"

"Oil leak from gasket between engine and transmission"

"oil leaking"

"Small oil leak over the last year, dealer mis-diagnosed at first. Now being repaired"

"Rear Main Seal leak"

"Gaskets changed but no help"

"Oil housing and oil pan were leaking. Housing leak was repaired. Oil pan was replaced"

"Small drip from behind oil cartridge mount, not economical to repair"

"Oil gasket failed causing an Oil leak near the Oil Filter/Vtech relays."

"oil pump was removed and resealed due to leaks"

"I saw some oil on the garage floor increasing a little over a few months. I took it into the honda dealership and it was repaired in January 2020"

"Engine rear main seal leaks. For now, stopped with Blue Devil additive."

"Rear main bearing seal oil leak completely fixed (for now?) with BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer"

"Removed and replaced leaking oil pressure sensor and housing"

"I needed the compressor recharged. The HONDA DEALER I took it to was a shyster who identified all manner of other things wrong and actually damaged the ventilation system in the process. Another, more reliable DEALER, whom I had worked with for yea"

"Unable to repair--no air conditioning"

"Low freon, leaks, needed to be replaced"

"The van didn't properly cool. Eventually it stopped working, and the dealer replaced the compressor and some other components that were supplying the a/c to the rest of the van. (very expensive)"

"Last year the AC stopped cooling. It was refilled and serviced so that it worked fine. This spring the problem became obvious again. I haven't taken it in yet, but it looks like a new compressor is in our future."

"For past 2 years I've been paying for various fixes to the air conditioning. Every 4 months, the liquid needed refilling in order to have any air conditioning at all. To fix the leak the garage tried many fixes. None worked."

"Compressor stock, belt broke"

"did not blow cold air"

"The temperature inside can not be regulated easily.It is either too hot or too cold"

"gives off some heat even when temp control turned way down"

"Blend door actuator is defective and makes a constant shattering noise as it continually tries to move the air damper. This is a common problem according to online research. It allows outside air to mix in with the cold air from the AC and causes the AC air to not be as cold as it should be. In order to deal with this, I have to run my AC on its coldest setting nonstop."

"Climate control not working correctly. Cool air will not work unless at coldest setting. Otherwise warm/hot air"

"Takes a very long time to get to cool temperature when engine is just started"

"The fuse failed in the blower, leaving it "on" (even with the power off) and draining the battery. Replacing the switch solved the problem"

"Just started making a clicking sound. Operates okay"

"Refrigerant leak in condenser; replaced it & evaporator at a cost of $900"

"It leaked and had to be replaced."

"Replaced it since condenser was being replaced"

"Side air bags "turned off""

"Multiple slow leaks that are extremely costly to fix"

"Dealer replaced condenser 9/2013 but freon still leaks"

"Air conditioning stopped working a year ago, needed recharge, and stopped working again this month."

"Condenser was replaced but there is still a slow refrigerant leak not yet found"

"A/C barely works - needs a refrigerant recharge"

"leak in rear evaperator"

"Shifting from low to a higher gear causing a pronounced jolt. Research indicates the transmissions for this model were defective. A transmission rebuild has been suggested by the transmission shop"

"This was the early sign of transmission problems"

"Part of the transmission failure"

"Transmission was going bad and needed replacement"

"transmission rebuilt at 55,000 and again at 250,000. Still have occasional slippage problems"

"Transmission starting to slip and shift differently again"

"Transmission has become 'clunky' over the past several months. Dealer checked codes and advised that rebuilt transmission is needed; we decided to just drive it until it gets much worse"

"Transmission started failing in 2012. Loss of power and pickup while driving. Increasingly harder to get up to speed and cannot make quick pull-outs anymore"

"Third gear would not engage sporadically. I would pull away from a green light and when it shifted into 3rd, there would be nothing. Rev the engine and nothing would happen. Pull over, put it in park, and shift back into drive and it would be fine"

"Not grabing the next gear up would be the proper term"

"Had the transmission replaced at 100000 miles, now the 2nd transmission is slipping at 225000 miles."

"Traded in the van instead of replacing the transmission"

"Prior to having the transmission replace it started to slip and a loose connection was found and repaired (6/12/16 at 191,726)"

"rear transmission seal is seaping. Quoted $1200 to repair"

"The sensor went out on a recent vacation trip. After about 500 miles since repair, including replacing all 18 quarts of the transmission fluid, we have not seen a TCS or an engine light come on"

"3 gear solenoid failed and required replacement"

"Replaced variable valve timing solenoid and pressure switch assembly. Later replaced countershaft speed sensor."

"they lock up on the driver side causing premature tire wear.Its been doing this over for many years"

"The problem was with brake pressure regulator or something that I do not exactly remember. It was causing a hissing sound when I applied brakes"

"leaks"

"Splash guards at rear wheels had rotted away, requiring that entire brake backing plates be replaced"

"Normal brake wear"

"Caliper slide pins seized resulting in uneven pad wear and rotor rust"

"Brake pads worn. Needed replaced"

"Worn due to high miles"

"Rear rotors were deteriorated and were replaced at the same time as the backing plates"

"Front brakes replaced 3 times in the last 5 years of normal mileage due to warped rotors"

"I have changed the brake pads & rotors 4 times in the past 5 years. Since I don't put on many miles on the van (~3000km/yr) this seems excessive to me. Otherwise I've been extremely impressed with the overall maintenance & very few repairs"

"Replace all rotors after 29000 mile life"

"This was what I consider expected after so many miles. If I remember correctly, it is the first time that the front rotors needed to be refinishing"

"drivers door trim peeling"

"Clearcoat peeling off. Happens on surfaces most exposed to the sun."

"BUMPER HAD TO BE REPAINTED - PAINT NOT HOLDING UP WELL"

"paint peeling off of left side sliding door"

"Clearcoat is peeling off of several areas, including most of the hood, the top of the side panels, and the rear bumper"

"Rust through over drivers side rear wheel arch"

"Rusting from a spot on the inside of the door panel. You can't see where it is rusting, but on the outside, it looks like someone poked the door from the inside"

"Rust developed badly around the rear fenders and underneath on bolts etc holding engine and radiator in place."

"Rear fender housing showing rust in front portion of wheel well.."

"Rusting and a passenger back wheel well"

"worn out: hole"

"Had a leak in the muffler and had to replace the entire exhaust system"

"The factory shipped the car before it was fully assembled and the dealer did not correct the problems before selling it to me. The dealer also charged me to correct the problems - about $5000."

"This is the 5th recall on this vehicle related to the Takata igniter problem. 4th drivers airbag recall (passenger's was recalled once)"

"It was replaced twice due to recall and the light came back on."

"worn out"

"Exhaust pipe bracket securing pipe rusted and failed."

"Exhaust pipe itself was still in good shape, but it separated from the flange connecting it to the catalytic converter, due to the flange rusting away. This required replacing the pipe and the first muffler"

"Required rear section of exhaust pipes to be replaced to pass state inspection"

"get constant check engine light and traction control light on"

"The emissions indicator came on and the mpg dropped a little. Did not affect car operation and ignored until I had to repair to pass the Maryland emissions testing."

"the light on the dashboard came on and I didn't address it"

"The check engine light is on. I've been told by multiple mechanics it is too costly and difficult to repair, but does not impact its operation"

"I guess, this is a typical Honda problem: the cap in the oil pan gets loose"

"It quit and was replaced by local mechanic"

"fuel connection at top of pump assembly cracked causing fuel leak and smell.Had to replace entire assembly"

"Rubber detached from doors"

"Tail gate lock loosened"

"Squeaks from the air bags, doors, seats, dashboard and windows"

"Can't find the source of rattles when hitting pot holes"

"Right rear passenger door with moderate noise and rattling while driving"

"I have had a whistle and hooting noise from wind and air leakage from the windshield and seals throughout the van from almost the time we bought the vehicle. We have had many repairs to solve these issues, but still the van is noisy and you can barel"

"Car would not start, replaced coils and spark plugs $1,400.00"

"Each sparkplug has its own coil. One failed during a trip. The warning light came on. A dealer said to stop driving the van immediately! We drove it to a different shop, where the problem was diagnosed and repaired. Scary"

"The engine light light up. My regular mechanic diagnostic a coil problem and wanted to change all 6 coils. I had to shop around finally bringing the car back to the dealer who fixed only the defective coils at a fraction of the estimate from my mec"

"Replaced three ignition coils."

"Ignition switch had a short which was intermittent and got progressively worse until the car couldn't be driven. We were told by our mechanic that it could have caused a fire. Interestingly, our mechanic's delivery van (aso a Honda Odyssey of the same vintage) had the same thing happen at the same time."

"Misfire on all 6 cyl"

"Volume knob broke"

"Died. Checked fuse and power was reaching the box. Put in a $100 aftermarket which worked excellently"

"Radio volume control stopped working"

"I changed the battery in the vehicle, which caused the radio/cd player not to work. I called to get it fixed and was quoted an outrageous price to have it fixed. so I have no music now."