Honda Odyssey Change Vehicle

"Same time as the tie rods the dealer noticed the ball joints needed to be replaced"

"Started to hear noises at high speeds. Honda dealer stated that the front wheel bearings needed replacement."

"All suspension bushings completely worn out causing clunking sounds when going over any bumps."

"There was a leak in the sleeve of the right front wheel, which turned out to need the axle replaced"

"Lower Arm bushing are reported cracking by dealer service department which is causing continue wheel alignment issues. Estimate is over $1,500 to repair"

"Had the Power Steering pump replaced"

"seems to be a common problem with this model and mileage. Needs a filter replaced. Haven't done it, just refill the reservoir for the last year and still runs fine."

"Rubber covering has leaked for some time, seems not to produce a problem in driving."

"High pressure hose failed and drained power steering fluid. Power steering pump also leaked."

"there was a leak in the power steering pump. Agency wanted to change power stering pump and bottom rack, total estimate $3,150 dollars. found in internet that it ws a class problem and it needs to replace the O-Rings in the pump. Replace by myself and total cost $30 dollars including tools."

"This is a class problem for the Honda Power Steering system. It is present in the Odyssey, but also in the Civic and other models. Two O-rings that seal the in and out of the Power Steering Pump failed prematurely. In my case, because the low milage usage in my car, it took this long to develop the failure, but reading in the internet, people with 3 years of usage on their cars, they get the Power Steering leakage issue. In the agency, they want to change the pump and the steering rack, $1,500.00 on parts and $1,500.00 in labor. I did by myself, it was less than $10.00 for the O-rings and less than $15.00 for a bottle of Power Steering fluid (both bought with the dealership). Besides this issue, that happened like 8 months ago, the Honda Odyssey has been a very reliable car. No other issues at all."

"Oil leak started approximately 4 year ago. Required oil to be added about once per month.. Power steering leak started approximately 4 years ago. Requires monitoring."

"leaks in steering gear seals. started 6 moonths ago. Resolved temporarily by refilling the steering box with lubricant. costs 1/10 of repair/replacement."

"failed state inspection"

"Power steering rack leakage could not be driven over couple miles without refill of power steering fluid"

"The power steering pump had to be replaced as well as some bearings on the drive belt due to excessive noise/ vibration. There were subsequent leaks in power steering hoses, (6 months later) probably caused by the earlier vibrations. Driveway grease stains from leaks were easily removed with dawn platinum dish washing liquid detergent"

"Replacement power steering pump leaked at o ring seal where it connected to high pressure line. O ring replaced at no cost for parts or labor"

"Leak occurred before the car was given to us"

"leaking hose"

"During regular maintenance they found leakage in the power steering"

"Pressure hose developed a leak"

"The pump started leaking, had to be replaced"

"Had to replace entire steering rack"

"Had to replace the power steering pump, hoses, and reservoir."

"I had a slow leak but it did not cause my van to be un-driveable"

"Power steering pumps on these were defective from the factory. Honda refuses to cover replacement at their cost despite using known bad power steering pumps."

"The power steering whined and got very tight at sharp angles at low/no speed. We did some research and found out the screen in the factory power steering reservoir is too fine. We ordered parts online, watched a video, and changed out the reservoir ourselves."

"I've had 3 power steering pumps in less than a year and the current one is failing. Apparently, the aftermarket/rebuild market is very unreliable."

"Power steering pump began to fail causing the steering to require more muscle/force to operate especially when parallel parking or operating the car at very slow speeds."

"The power steering pump started leaking and needed to be replaced. It also happened to a friend of ours 2010 odyssey at about the same mileage."

"The power steering pump needed replacement and the hose was leaking"

"Pump had to be replaced"

"Worn out. Failing. Harder to turn wheels"

"Power steering pump failed. It contaminated the entire system. Pump replaced and system cleaned. Not cheap"

"The power steering pump is sized too small for this van. I've had to have the fluid changed and flushed. Added an antifoam agent"

"This was irritating because a "bulletin" was put out by Honda about the pumps. I took the vehicle in they did a "quick" fix, but never told me about the bulletin. A year later had to bring it back and have the pump and hose replaced and had to pay full price because it was out of warranty"

"The power steering pump, reservoir and fluid exchange were replaced. there was a terrible loud squeal every time I tuned the wheel"

"After it has been driven for awhile, the steering wheel does not turn as easily"

"Another common failure. Already had power steering pump replaced under recall. It has failed again. Power steering pump is undersized and prone to failure after 100,000"

"Bearings went out of the Power Steering pump"

"Hose leak required $480 replacement"

"The pump has been replaced twice"

"Power steering pump leaking/failure, pump was replaced"

"Replaced power steering pump and fluid"

"Power steering pump was leaking"

"Replaced second power steering pump. Base pump was undersized"

"Power steering pump was fixed twice--same faulty part must still be being used"

"Power steering pump leaked and had to be replacedl"

"Hard to steer and leaking"

"Steering wheel became difficult to turn tight/sharp corners. Pump replaced"

"all of power steering went out and had to be replaced"

"had to replace faulty power steering pump"

"The car was from Michigan, and the whole front end needed to be released because of rust due to road salt."

"Strut failed, cost $450 to replace."

"Makes noise when going over bumps, struts will need to be replaced but mechanic says not yet"

"Vehicle starting villently shaking when driven above 50 mph. Needed new shocks"

"Struts needed to be replaced requiring an alignment."

"Now going to be on the 3rd set of struts in this vehicles life. Very poor quality from Honda as I expect more life than what I have recieved from all the dealer purchased parts. I will definetly be looking at all aftermarket parts from now on."

"violent vibration during high speed acceleration"

"Have replaced shocks on the Honda Odyssey four times."

"Shocks and Struts required replacements twice in 111000 miles"

"Strut Mount Failure"

"Strut assemblies for this vehicle began to fail just at the warranty expiration. Replacement struts lasted even shorter length of time. Disappointed with reliability in this part of the vehicle the most"

"Odysseys have what they call active motor mounts. These are required because the engine deactivates three cylinders when not under heavy load. I have had three Odysseys and they all have had to have them replaced. Cost $1500-$2000 each"

"At 120,000 front struts had to be replace to stop steering wheel from shaking at interstate speeds"

"During regular maintenance they discovered leaks in the rear shocks"

"Front struts seem to be a problem due to jarring feel when ride on rough surface or bumps"

"Rear shocks seem to need replacement too soon"

"The dealer says I have a leak in both my rear shockabsorbers"

"Rear shocks are undersized and fail every couple of years. After market shocks don't fit and hit wishbones. This destroyed a set of tires. Now only use poor product from dealer because they fit"

"Front struts along with the inner & outer boots all needed to be replaced 2 months ago"

"Rear shocks/struts seem to be a problem among large Honda vehicles. My MDX and Odyssey both make a lot of noise when rear tires hit a pothole. I have had to replace shocks/struts on the Odyssey"

"Worn and had to be replaced"

"Rack and pinion is leaking but can still drive"

"rust, same as rest of front end."

"the rack would bind and cause hard steering. The rack was replaced before at about 60,000 miles but had to be replaced again at about 110000 miles"

"extreme vibration, like driving over the wake up bars on side of road. Dealer replaced axle, boot, and did a break job, but were not specific on what the issue was"

"Told by dealer to get rack & pinion replaced in the next year. Have not independently verified."

"A number of issues including broken engine mounts although I would say the aggregate of 150,000 miles and to be expected to some degree. Still wouldn't trade the vechile. Sliding door is wear and tear also."

"Power Steering rack is leaking and will need to be replaced rather than repaired. $1350"

"Replaced driver side axle"

"both control arms were worn out on both sides of front linkage"

"big vibration when accelerating under load. I've read it likely a diver axle that needs replaced."

"Vibrates from 35 to 40 miles an hour. Very consistent."

"Steering started vibrating at about 60 mph when accelerating. This started at about 130000 miles. Changed wheel bearings and it rides well again. Cost about $700."

"Between 55 and 65 MPH the can shakes moderately. Probably because of a bad axle."

"Had to replace both front axles."

"vibration in steering wheel and in entire vehicle body at speeds approximately 52mph +"

"front brake rotors were warped for the fourth time"

"Intermittent Vibration at @40 mph"

"result of multiple broken motor mounts. Those should not break on a vehicle this new"

"The power steering issue worn down the tires a little and caused steering wheel vibration"

"wheel balance issue that was easily repaired"

"Difficulty in elimination front wheel vibration"

"Stabilizer links constantly fail"

"Needed new tie rods"

"Tie Rod was worn and needed replacement"

"Tires were wearing unevently. Tie rod ends were worn and needed to be replaced"

"Tie Rods needed replaced after hearing metal banging noises while driving"

"got loose - replaced"

"One tie rod became loose during a vacation trip on the interstate highway system. It resulted in significant front end vibration at certain highway speeds. This forced me to interrupt the trip with a half day repair in the nearest city"

"One tie rod end was failing and it ended up creating pressure on the brake line"

"Dealer noticed Front tie rods needed replacing"

"exchanged due to age"

"since brand new front tires always were on the outer edges everything is working properly and aligned still were out uneven"

"With Michelin PAX run flat tires, they are near impossible to keep in balance. After having tires balanced they may need balanced again after only a few hundred miles"

"The fornt tires have to balenced oince a year otherwise the steering wheel vibrates too much at lower speeds"

"The front right bearings were replaced. After replacement, we drove the van for about 150 miles and determined that we needed to replace the front right bearings again. They were replaced without any charge, but it took three days to do this."

"Both rear wheel bearings got very noisy and had to be replaced"

"Noise occurs between 30 to 69 mph. Noisier when making turn"

"Wheel bearing overheated, burned & had to be replaced"

"Wheel bearing was wore out and needed replacement"

"R&R front wheel bearings"

"Wheel bearings on both front wheels needed replacing, and the old ones had to be machine pressed out"

"replaced front wheel bearing because of excessive noise"

"The doors no longer open and close well. They get stuck and take multiple tries. Very expensive to fix."

"Electric doors are complicated and troublesome."

"Both sliding doors must be used manually and are very difficult to close. Apparently the doors are too heavy for the ball bearing system according to technician. Too expensive to replace"

"Parasitic drain from sliding door closure motor caused repeated dead batteries requiring jump start or plug-in charger. The difficulty was tracking down the issue, since the motor only remained stuck on some of the time."

"both automatic sliding doors became more and more jerky and it would take 4-6 attempts to get them to close. Had to clean and lubricate thoroughly to get them to work again."

"Sliding door continues to intermittently not latch completely unless I repress the close door button several times"

"The rear passenger sliding doors have a tendency to not completely lock when it appears that the door is actually closed. You will have an audible alarm that will continue to sound once the vehicle is put into drive and it becomes very annoying. The only way to turn off this sound is by turning the sliding door switch in the off position.Honda charged me $800 to repair this problem by replacing the cables and mechanisms. When the other door did the similar thing I did not want to pay out this kind of money and I had lubricated all the mechanisms that I could get at in terms of hinges and such. After all the mechanisms of the door were lubricated the problem was resolved and has since not returned which is been almost two years now.I feel like I was completely taken by the Honda dealership for those repairs of the other door when it appears that it only needed lubrication. Another reason why it's difficult to trust dealerships then an independent local mechanic. Which I had experienced much better service and honesty as to what really needs to be repaired on a vehicle.I find that the dealerships just tend to do a lot of recommendations that I believe may not be really necessary. As an example I was told that my timing belt needs to be replaced I have a cost me about $2,000. I have since driven the van another 150000 km with no issues..."

"The sliding doors sometimes are hard to close or open manually and automatically. This is intermittent, balky."

"The sensors in both the driver's and passenger's side automatic sliding doors have both stopped the doors from opening and closing (mostly closing). The only way we can get them to close when this happens is the hold the rear edge of the door as it slides forward pulling it away from the vehicle until it is 80% closed. We can then let it go and the door will continue sliding until closed. If we don't do this, the doors will stop closing and return to the open position as if the door senses something is in its path and opens to prevent an accident. This happens probably 85 to 90% of the times the doors are used and is worse if the van is parked on an incline. This started happening five or six years ago, then only occasionally and proceedingly getting worse."

"Both sliding doors stopped working properly. The driver side door had to have the in the motor Replaced. The passenger side door has a switched the stopped working so even though the door was closed it was slide open about a quarter inch. Bristol put the warning on my dashboard and also drain my battery. It's at the dealers as we speak being fixed. I read an article on YouTube detailing the problem and it's repair there was about a 2-hour job. However at 70 I'm a little too old to bend those ways. When I first bought the vehicle I predicted the electric slide into us would be a problem, I was correct. If there was ever a way I could buy a vehicle with manual doors I will do so. The more dude there's the more philia most possible."

"passenger sliding door cable broke"

"The driver side sliding door has intermittent problems opening and closing. We have taken it in for repairs at a Honda dealership. It helped some but we continue to have issues."

"Motor still tries to work but door does not open and/or shut easily. Getting old. Too expensive to fix so we live with it."

"rear sliding door would not close even if manually trying to close door"

"Sliding doors don't close all the way. Alarm continually sounds even when door closed. Took for repairs, still intermittently problematic"

"Both of the automatic sliding doors needed to be repaired. These repairs included the lock that holds the door in a closed position. After spending over $800 the drivers side sliding door will not close or open properly. The dealer made it manual and it still has major problems. Safety issue"

"doors sometimes have resistance when closing so they sense issue and open up. Have to keep pushing close button to get them to close. Doesn't happen all the time"

"Sliding door guide system for both sides of the vehicle needed to be completely replaced. Was surprised to find plastic rollers for these heavy sliding doors"

"Doors sometimes gets stuck. Finally had to google how to get doors to close (after husband accidently pulled one off while trying to close it). Spoke to neighbors and they have pulled their doors off as well. Not sure why they get stuck but you have to temporarily disable the electric going to it before attempting to shut it to avoid pulling door off track"

"Both sliding doors get stuck and will only open part way. The dealership states that the roller balls are worn due to the harsh winters. When they are greased with white lithium grease they work ok. However, you have to put grease on them 2-3 times a week"

"both sides have problems getting stuck while opening and closing. it is expensive to have repaired according to quotes"

"Both electric sliding doors are hard to open - they regularly refuse to open using remote buttons, dashboard buttons, and even when using on-door handles"

"The bearings for the sliding doors had to be replaced"

"Multiple problems with same door & Honda dealership unable to get it fixed properly"

"Power sliding doors ride on plastic pulleys with bushings instead of bearings. Replacement cost is $800 per door"

"Water leak 3rd row seats.Dlr weatherstripping shot replaced. Was hole around drain rear evaporator core another dly found & fixed. Honda dlrwouldn't return money.Taken small claims ct. Slidingdoors mechs replaced many times. Spent thoUSnds. Dlr"

"automatic mechanism on passenger side wouldn't work, finally at dealef, door fell off track and to the floor. they fixed it for free"

"Automatic rear sliding doors sometimes refuse to open. It has been an ongoing problem"

"The sliding door guide wheel broke making it difficult or impossible to close the ride side sliding door"

"Both automatic sliding door cables have broke"

"Left power sliding door will not close. Dealer installed new hinge"

"passenger side sliding door sometimes jams when opening. Dealer tried to repair but did not fix it. Occurs more often in cold weather"

"sliding door jams"

"sliding doors malfunctioning. Problem still exists and local dealer charged in full for the repair"

"Rear Passenger door difficult to open. Power door system not responding to controls"

"The driver's side sliding door is powered. Sometimes it will open the first time the button is pressed, but usually you have to hit it 2 to 5 times before it opens. The problem is only with the unlatch as once it starts opening, it is fine"

"Gears in the sliding door motor just broke apart. They were made out of plastic"

"Passenger side door became loud and difficult to operate. I think it needed basic service and lubrication. seems to need a lubricant that consumer can't easily get or apply?"

"Rear passenger door slider gets stuck"

"Sliding door failed to close and would bounce open. Replaced the locking mechanism and fixed the problem. Dealer repair - they said it was the most typical repair of this type"

"Drivers side sliding door would stick when opened"

"sliding doors have been a constant issue with this vehicle!"

"The motors on the sliding door fail often. This causes the door to not latch or unlatch while the car is in motion. Once the door slide open while taking a corner"

"We have had problems with the sliding door. It frequently won't shut"

"The electrically operated doors are getting slower and slower. Which probably means an expensive repair in the near future"

"Both motorized sliding doors have become harder to operate. Driver side door now closes only if I help it"

"Driver's side sliding door sticks and jams"

"Sliding doors do not always open automatically; often takes three or more tries with the remote, or have to open them manually. Scraping sounds as they open. Door behind the driver often does not close all the way on first attempt"

"passenger sliding door required replacement of the closing mechanism"

"Door hinges have essentially worn out"

"the sliding door wheels that slide on the track are in my opinion of poor design, they wore out"

"Have tried more than once to get this problem fixed at the dealer, but the door is still difficult to open and close"

"sliding doors get dirt/debris in tracks very easily and results in door malfunctioning. Motor is not very powerful and burns out easily - $2500+ to repair"

"The doors bearings have failed and the locks on the doors will not always release. This was an expense repair and had to be don eon both sides of the vehicle"

"both doors had issues. One fell out before the warranty was out. Last year spent $800-900 fixing door not closing problem. The other door has problems sliding and closing - might have to repair in future to. If the same door has to be repaired twice"

"Sliding doors have been repaired over and over... what a nightmare!"

"We had to have one set of latches on the sliding doors replaced as the door failed to engage -- leaving us with a door that would not close properly. We have other issues with the doors -- it appears that the latches do not endure well -- and the doo"

"One electric sliding door stopped closing, so a mechanic clipped the line because we didn't want to pay for new door, so it is a manual sliding door now. The other door still open electronically after multiple tries"

"have a noise at highway speeds coming from the passenger side front of the car - think it might be from the windshield, but not 100%-sure - hard to pin-point, even when sitting in pass front seat"

"Heated seat controls work great for 5-10 mins, then stop working. Had it fixed while under warranty - problem is back"

"Intermittent ability of both key fobs to lock and unlock the doors. Intermittent ability of key to start vehicle in park."

"Glove box takes a lot of force to open"

"driver side lock doesnot work 9 as such you cant lock from inside when driving 0 since we purchased the van"

"paint faded on passenger side"

"It leaks into the ceiling then drips onto front seats"

"The tailgate no longer stays open, it continuously beeps and tries to close within moments of it opening. It is pretty much unusable right now."

"We had to replace the hydraulic lift"

"Rust due to metal reaction under metal skin. The rust is located on left and right side of the tailgate at the sesame height and distance from the centre of the tailgate. There are numerous other Odysseys the same age without any rust on the tailgate. I understand there may have been a recall but I've been told my van is not covered. It is a US van imported to Canada"

"Trunk does not stay open. It slams shut"

"Rear hatch struts required replacing"

"Previously mentioned rust perforation and contact between gate and bumper cover when opening/closing gate"

"The hatch handle does not work, the back wiper has seized up, and the shocks that hold up the door are rusted to death"

"window regulator cannot be repaired and replacement is $470"

"main window control failed. probably due to water leaking thru drivers side door seal"

"compressor failed & had to be replaced last summer"

"This happened 8 months ago.since seeing a master mechanic it was recommended replacement of total a/c compressor $$$$"

"Seized. No more A/C in the van."

"Couple weeeks ago the AC stopped cooling, I have not repaired it yet."

"Had to replace compressor"

"The mechanic said this was the probable issue with my A/C blowing hot air. The compressor was addressed but i still had hot air blowing on the driver side in the middle of the summer :-("

"A/C stopped working. Needed to be replaced"

"Air came out of the ducts hot. A trusted mechanic said the problem was in the compressor., which he replaced. There were some other climate system maintenance problems which had been overlooked by a dealership servicing several months prior,"

"Stopped working, very expensive to fix on an old car"

"We've had major repairs on the AC twice. It really doesn't seem to last - granted its an older vehicle"

"It stopped working and had to be replaced"

"warm air; tried to recharge the refrigerant; high pressure on low pressure line; $1500 repair"

"Car does not cool down"

"The air conditioning system has failed repeatedly. We cannot turn on the fan or heat without pressing the AC button to turn it off. If we don't press the off button, the cooling system makes awful noises and causes the engine to hesitate repeatedly"

"A rock from the road penetrated the compressor. It was replaced at my expense. Apparently there is a shield available for free, but installation was extra. This shield now vibrates noisily at 22000 rpm, but the A/C works"

"The air conditioner quit working"

"The compressor failed in 2014 so the air conditioner would not produce cool air. I had to pay a lot to replace the compressor"

"AC clutch gone. Replaced it, only lasted 2 months"

"failed AC compressor and clutch"

"When we hit the A/C switch or the Automatic Climate is set the A/C doesn't always come on. Sometime we have to travel several miles in a hot van while waiting for the system to decide to turn the A/C on"

"The A/C system has started blowing uncooled air randomly. It will be fine and then just stop. Then a little while later, start blowing cold air again."

"Climate control but to get it to work it has to be turned way up for heat or way down for ac."

"When set at 72 degrees and AC on the vent on the drivers produces heat, the passengers side sends out cool air. If the setting is lowered to "Lo" both send out cool air. car has been to two different Honda dealers several times. Problem persists."

"The ac system would stop working. It would nbot put out cold air even when it was very hot. The temerature sensor had to be replaced twice."

"The ventilation ducts on the dashboard are not consistent with respect to controlling temperature. Sometimes, heated air will exhaust from two of the ducts while the AC ejects cold air from the other two ducts."

"The drivers side air conditioning did not work when the A/C was on but only the passenger side worked."

"Passenger side front & side vents blow hot off the engine - even with A/C. Have not taken it in to fix yet - thinking of getting a new car."

"Thermostat is broken"

"Heat comes out of the vents when the system is off"

"Operation of the climate control function is very confusing with too many defaults"

"The climate control is not able to control cool temperatures. It however, runs the AC at high - very cool temperature"

"Driver side--- comes on in heat mode no matter the temperate set or air temp outside.....no always"

"A solenoid that operates a door in the ventilation system failed. The blower motor failed. The driver-side temperature control failed. Three separate occasions"

"Sometimes blows heat when you turn on ac"

"Actually I had to replace the 2 front axels on the car, the automatic climate control, steering problem as well. The suspension rides terribly overall"

"Paint cracking and pealing off styling seams on the hood. Brakes fade and start to vibrate very easily if using Honda brakes. Purchased expensive after market pads and rotors and it has improved, but again it was expensive, Device controlling the"

"Blows hot air on drivers side when air conditioning is on and chilled on air passenger side. So for the repair shops have not been able to fix the problem"

"Had a chip burn out causing the system to completely shut down"

"Both air mix motor failed. Replacement failed"

"get heat on moderately warm days. Will not cool until I put the temp as high as it will go and then back to as cool as it will go. Then I can set the temp and get cool air. Also, the light for the temp on the drivers side the light does not work"

"Rear blower fan was replaced"

"See my previous answer."

"Gave up and needed to be replaced"

"Every now and then the fan starts blowing hot air on the driver's side"

"Noisy fan"

"My regular mechanic suggested I take my Honda to the dealer to replace the blower fan unit. I did, and after paying over $300, found it still did not work properly. My mechanic fixed the problem by replacing the fully clogged cabin filter located behind the glove compartment. The Honda dealer never checked it or didn't care that the new blower still was not effective"

"Highway speeds, fan would shut down in front and rear system. Air was cold, but not forced at speed through vehicle"

"Discovered in spring that air conditioning wasn't producing cold air. Took it to the dealer, they said they replaced a faulty valve and found no other leaks. After a few weeks, the air conditioning wasn't producing cold air again. Returned to the dealer, and they charged us for a second leak test. This one found a leak in the condenser, which had to be replaced."

"The condenser was leaking because of a hole that probably caused by a rock."

"AC suddenly would not cool, and the Honda dealer service dept. claimed it was the condenser which I replaced for $1100. afterward, there was and still is a tremendous differential in temperature from the AC on the driver side AC vents compared to th"

"It stopped working and had to be replaced"

"Warn out and replaced"

"Hole from road debris caused entire fluid reservoir to drain"

"leaked and would not repressurize"

"Condenser developed a leak. Possibly from road debris"

"Compressor relay failed"

"We simply change a bloqued air filter and that was it!"

"the system would not convert from heating to Ac"

"Blows very hot air out driver side vents all the time"

"There was no heat on the driver side. This is a repeat of a problem earlier when the heater system had to be replaced 2-3 years ago. It was repaired in the fall of 16 and may require more work"

"The car is old and we live in an area that uses a lot of salt in winter causing a lot of corrosion. I think this is not a big issue considering the age of the car. I love Honda reliability."

"The system has a slow leak in the refrigerant."

"The refrigerant leaks and we were told it concerns the tubing that runs to the middle seating area. A specialist told us he sees lots of Honda Odysseys with rear area problems like this because the tubing is located under the vehicle in an area that is exposed to salt during the winter which promotes rusting. The specialist offered to fix the problem for $2000 but without any guarantee as to how long the fix would last. The specialist also said getting replacement tubing was difficult because it was so much in demand."

"a seal cracked and a hose cracked. Freon leaked out. Replaced seal, hose, and Freon. Cost a $130, got lucky on this one"

"2 cans of refrigerant per year has to be added"

"I had to replace the refrigerant condenser and the entire piping assembly for the vehicle cooling system. Multiple leaks in the piping and the condenser resulted in a totally inoperative cooling system while I was on vacation in Florida"

"Leak in the rear evaporator"

"The refrigerant was recharged and the problem persists"

"Found a leak in the O rings and the 2 lines underneath the car that completely depleted the refrigerant in the system"

"road debris hits it from underneath, this is the second system"

"The system was checked for leaks but there weren't any. I purchased a do-it-yourself recharge kit from an auto store and recharged the system myself. It seems to run pretty well now"

"Had to replace entire piping for rear air system"

"Leak in line to rear AC unit"

"Cause of refrigerant leak unknown. Situation not diagnosed by dealer"