Honda Odyssey Change Vehicle

"The AC stopped working and I had to replace the the AC compressor. and two years later this replacement Ac compressor had died again. It is a good thing that I live in Canada and only need the AC for 2 or 3 months in a year"

"Will sometimes not cool. My mechanic cannot find the problem"

"Tons of problems with AC. I've taken the car to the dealer 4 times. Each time they "fix" it only to stop working later"

"Unit failed requiring replacement"

"The pressure relief valve continued to pop--could not replace just the valve--the whole compressor needed to be replaced. While doing that, it was discovered that the condenser needed to be replaced, as well"

"Quit"

"stopped working 10 months after condenser stopped working"

"The AC has randomly over the past three years just stopped blowing cold air. It will stay off for a random amount of time from 1 min to 15 min. Every time I took it in, it was fine. Weirdly, this summer, it hasn't done it at all"

"No cold air, repaired leak"

"It was simply that the air conditioner stopped cooling."

"First placement failed in the first two weeks with a scary burning smell. The said that one was bad from the start, put in a new one--no problems with the compressor since, just the control of the compressor to make A/C work."

"Compressor was leaking and required rebuilding."

"Compressor needed replaced as A/C went out. Ended up replacing entire A/C system and recharging the system."

"Had to replace A/C compressor twice in last 2 years."

"The Air Compressor clutch failed and the mechanic damaged the compressor in the process of replacing the clutch and the compressor had to be replaced ! also !!"

"began to leak freon. rather than having ti add freon frequently i had it replaced."

"See previous comments. These repairs were done together."

"Complete failure of the A/C compressor"

"We've been having problems with the compressor for 5 years. I keep taking it in to the dearlership and it's either working at that time or they do something to fix it, but then it stops working again. I live in the South. Air conditioning is a necessity!"

"it failed after 160,000 miles."

"It quit working. We had to get a new one. Now it's fine. :-)"

"The airconditioning has never been adequate for the size of vehicle."

"A/C failed due to bad relay/switch associated with the compressor so that the A/C would not come on. Dealer repaired. Don't remember more details than that."

"The AC unit in this van has been replaced twice in the last 5 years."

"Last year was the second time I had an A/C failure (symptom, coolant leak). It seems that the previously replaced compressor was ruined because the condenser failure introduced debris into the coolant, resulting in the need to replace both."

"leaks"

"A/C cuts out for days on end. No problem found"

"A/C failed in August 2014. Compressor had to be replaced"

"ac packed up and will be repaired"

"compressor was hot by a small stone on the highway and had to be replaced. Design flaw"

"compressor froze"

"No cold air"

"on vacation 1000 miles from home and compressor failed. quite costly to repair"

"A/C was not cooling properly. Passenger side blew hot air in the summer and driver side blew cooler air. Something was wrong --- still not 100%"

"A/C periodically freezes up and will not provide cold air. A/C compressor and clutch failed in the last year (leading to a total A/C failure) and were replaced, but original problem still exists"

"Had a pressure leak, requiring replacement"

"It failed at less than 140000 miles and had to be replaced for costs over $1700.00. Besides the expense, this seems a premature failure to me"

"The clutch for the a/c compressor failed. It cost us $800 to get fixed"

"The clutch needed replacing and in the process of removing the clutch from the compressor the compressor was damaged and had to be replaced"

"I thought it was the climate control in the car but the dealership recommended a new AC Compressor at the same time I had the timing belt changed. The total cost was $2100"

"it failed and I had to pay to fix it"

"Compressor failed and had to be replaced"

"Compressor would not turn off; source was electrical in nature"

"Compressor failed and was replaced"

"AC compresser clutch malfunction, but compressor OK"

"Bad relay switch draining battery"

"Compressor replacement awfully expensive!"

"Would not cool. Honda had to put a relay in & recharged the coolant $550 job"

"Had the dealer check out why the AC was not working. Was told I had to replace AC clutch (part that engages).but once opened up they called to say that the whole compressor needs to be replaced"

"Not cooling, started last week, have not taken it into the shop yet"

"plastic gear clicks and sticks when setting over night"

"driver side blows hot air unless we set the temp to 58 then it only blows uncontrollable cold air. Fix is expensive"

"Driver side vents stay in heat mode every time Van is started. Must "reset" system by lowering temperature to lowest setting, then raise temp to desire setting"

"odyssey temperature motor make noise and blow hot air"

"A/C works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. When it works., it works well. We replaced the main A/C relay for about $6. It works more often, but still doesn't always work"

"Passenger side of dual climate control blew only hot air intermittently"

"The AC sometime blows hot air when it should be cold air. we adjust the temp to LO and then it starts to blow cold air"

"It doesn't work"

"Air handler began to fail in 2015 (scratchy noise behind the dash on driver's side). Hot air blows out driver's side while the passenger side stays on target with temperature we set. It could be readjusted, for a while, by turning the system down to LOW, but that's now broken. Getting ready to sell the van"

"air temperature sticks to hot and the only way to get it to start cooling is to set the temperature to the coldest setting then put it back to the desired temp."

"Air conditioner blew Hot air on passenger side, and Cold air on drivers side!"

"after 13 years, climate control has problems---starts up blowing heat on both sides, you have to take it to "Low" on both sides before you can override that and then get it to start getting the air con to work. Dealer unable to figure out; new module already installed, next one would be thousands; not worth it."

"Heat Volvo sticks open even with ac on"

"Driver side would blow out warm air while passenger side would blow out cold air."

"Driver side vents do not blow cold unless you turn the heat all the way up and then bring the temp back down."

"air vents on the driver side of car blow hot air at all times that HVAC system is turned on. Less hot when A/C is on, sometimes actually cool, but not as cold as passenger side, It is like the driver's vent air diverter is stuck partially open to heated air all the time. Passenger side blows hot or cold as expected."

"Heat blows out of driver side while cold air blows from passenger side"

"Driver side blowing only hot air."

"The automatic climate control stopped working. When the air conditioner was on it would not cool and sometimes would blow warm air out of the vents. This was a very costly repair, amounting to almost $750 for all issues to be repaired."

"Passenger side temperature control only blows hot air at any temperature selection."

"Driver side climate control fails to function properly at different times."

"One side blows not air with A.C on. Must lower temperature on driver side to lowest setting until it blows cold air, then adjust back to 70-72 degrees. Then it seems to work OK."

"heat hot air blows even low temperature setting"

"Hot air blows out of the passenger side of the AC. only gets cool if we set it at 60 but then it gets too cold."

"Some valve was not closing completely, resulting in the drivers side becoming very hot and the passenger side very cold."

"Air on the drivers side of blowing 90 deg. and the rest of the car was blowing cold air."

"A $10 relay failed. Honda dealer diagnosed and replaced for around $50."

"Heater came on full blast while A/C was running, but only on passenger side of car."

"While air conditioning is running, it stops blowing cold air and starts blowing hot air. This is apparently common because I found the problem fix on the internet after the dealer failed to find the problem after 2 visits."

"two different air temps to passenger and driver sides when both sides should have been the same"

"the system gets confused and sometimes has heat coming out of one vent and AC out another. We have to put the election all the way to LOW, and then the cool comes from all vents. (we then move it back to the desired temp and it works correctly)"

"Dealership replaced compressor. Complaint continued. Independent mechanic troubleshot problem to a malfunctioning sensor. Problem solved"

"Always blows hot air until you turn temp down to lowest value and then back up to where you want it"

"The system just stopped working. The blower would not work and the air conditioning compressor would not come on. The repair was an electrical component in the dashboard control for the system. It took about 45 minutes including time required to h"

"vast temperature variance in the air exiting passenger outlets & drivers outlet; Honda Dealer flushed cooling & rad system three times, did not solve issue; I suggested an electronic control problem; now that my extended warranty has expired, dealer"

"The automatic climate control does not cool the Odyssey properly or not at all. Sometime one side seems to work. A dye was put in but we did not follow up as yet"

"I've had this repaired at the dealership 3 times. I just don't think they make a good blower motor product for this vehicle."

"Motor wouldn't start when turning the fan control knob. Occasionally it would start when jolted. Motor replaced and working fine."

"A year after the engine was replaced, it started running rough again and wouldn't pump out AC. They thought it was the compressor but discovered it was the fans that shut down the compressor. Inexpensive repair but because through belts, the compress"

"AC switched to hot air multiple times, which dealer and mechanics blamed on a motor. They have been unuccessful in identifying the part that requires placement. I had dogs locked in the car with the AC running, only to return minutes later and find"

"Had to replace at the time of the compressor replacement for the replacement warranty"

"Was leaking and had to be replaced"

"See comments under compressor"

"Location of AC condenser is prone to rock damage and leaking."

"Poor design, road debris knocked hole in condenser"

"Electrical switch for air conditioner"

"Fuse that turns on compressor went bad"

"Failed relay"

"The driver side vents do not get any heat. No matter what the automatic temp is set at nor how warm the other vents may get, only cold air comes from the driver's vents"

"The driver side is always hot. It doesn't matter if I change the temperature the driver side stays hot. The passenger side will change and be cool while the driver side is hot"

"THe heating system and fan blower have never been adequate for the size of the vehicle."

"One of the pipes running from the heater reservoir in the back of the car corroded and started leaking fluid. The replacement part took a week to be ordered in and the repair was done to satisfactory standards by the Honda dealer"

"coolant leaks caused the passenger side of the van to have cold air while heat come from the vents on the driver's side during the time you were looking for cool air"

"After 8 year there's a slow leak on the refrigerant so it needs to be refilled every year"

"low refrigerant that needed filling with a can"

"the vehicle is 10 years old. air conditioning issues are expected now. it is my second odyssey and i would buy another if my wife would let me"

"A leak developped in the system and air conditioning did not work anymore. It had to be refilled with freon"

"I was told it would be around $700 to fix the tiny refrigerant leak because they would have to replace the entire line running from the front of the car for a tiny pinhole. Still haven't done it. Use about 2 cans of environmentally friendly refrigerant per season to get through, I'm not spending that kind of money because of poor engineering on Honda's part."

"Driver side AC not functional - likely heater core leak."

"Leak in the system caused compressor to fail."

"Because the Odyssey van is a handicapped van with a side ramp. I had to have the whole AC system replaced by having it customly retrofitted in the van."

"For the amount of miles on the vehicle and the amount of use the AC system gets, I was disappointed that the problem occurred."

"After 11 years of use the A/C became weaker. This happened gradually. The dealer added refrigerant about 1 year ago and everything has been cool since."

"No leaks, just needed refrigerant."

"Air conditioning stopped working, only blow hot air, needs to be refilled."

"Did not repair. 1,200 plus to fix the coolant lines"

"No cold air"

"Valve stuck open, lost refrigerant; valve replace and refrigerant replaced"

"AC stopped working properly. Mechanic identified a leak"

"Recently had major refrigerant leaks that cost about $500 to repair"

"Needed to replace the lines leading to the rear heater core"

"When we realized it wasn't cooling we were out of state. The dealer had to order a part but we couldn't wait. They had recharged it to test it, and it worked for a week or more. Back home we had it fixed. Can't remember if replaced or repaired"

"Had to replace freon twice because of leaks, Will have to do it a 3rd time. Repair shop said it might be the whole unit gone bad"

"We have problems with the air conditioning not working. Have replaced the refrigerant several times. Mechanic hasn't been able to readily find the leak. We're reluctant to spend a lot of money to fix the AC because of power steering issue"

"After 11 years, they needed replacement. Seems fair enough."

"Needed replacing due to play in wheels"

"Had to have them replaced in the front, and the axel was in need of replacement too"

"Bushing wore in there rears suspension arms. Expensive replacement as Honda replaces the entire assembly, not the bushings"

"Compliance bushing cracked/worn. Will not pas next state inspection according to dealer. Estimate $1,000 to repair"

"CLICKING NOISE / ALSO STRUTS"

"left rear wheel bearing was noisy and ready to fail"

"Front control arm bushings are wearing out"

"Honda wants $2000 to repair failing bushings - car has less than 120k miles on it"

"bushings needed replacement"

"Replaced as a normal service. They didn't break, just worn"

"Replaced power steering unit due to leaks"

"had leak and changed power steering pump for second time was told rack n pinon could be bad also"

"Oil leak at pover steering pump inlet o-ring"

"We did not notice that the power steering fluid level was low (neither did my regular mechanic), so it was a bit of a surprise when the pump started cavitating while on a road trip"

"Car makes awful noises in the winter due to leaks in the power steering. To fix this would require replacing the rack and pinion which is very expensive. So you added lubricating power steering fluid and it has helped."

"Pinhole leak"

"11 months ago, at about 175,000 miles, the power steering started having problems. There were leaks, the pump would whine when first turned on, the steering wheel would be "heavy" when engine cold. I had to replace the rack and pinion because of leaks there, and a hose. The power steering pump did not show any leaks. Only 3 months later similar problems appeared. Now the pump is apparently leaking and that is going to be a major repair."

"An “O” ring in the power steering system needs to be replaced. Cost estimate is $400 because it is difficult to get at the the part needing replacement"

"Power steering pomp was changed already two times"

"new power steering pump"

"System cavatating"

"There was a leak in the power steering hose"

"Standard power steering pump "o" ring leak. Should have been fixed by Honda"

"Power steering pump started to fail, had to get it replaced"

"Power steering fluid leak. $400 to repair"

"Power steering unit not operating effectively. High whining noise. Very hard to steer at low rpm/speed. Unit was replaced"

"Power steering making noise when turning. There were leaks. Changed the pump. Not enough. Changed hoses. Not enough. Changed gaskets. Not enough. Kept leaking. Used product to seal the leak. Worked. But it was very frustrating and costly"

"had to replace the power steering pump because it stopped working. had to replace power steering hose because it was old and sprung a bad leak"

"Have had to replace power steering lines twice in last 30,000 miles. Supposedly stainless lines had rusted through ( we spend moist of the winters in Carolinas where no road salt)"

"The power steering does not work at low speeds such as parking"

"Leaking fluid. Noticed steering wobble. Had PSU replaced no more problems"

"The power steering pump started cavitating while on a road trip and had to be replaced at a Honda dealership along the way"

"Leaking hoses attached to the power steering pump were causing low fluid levels."

"started leaking, harder to steer, took car to garage, they changed the pump"

"The power steering is difficult when the engine is at low rpms (turning the wheel while stopped). It has gotten worse as time has gone by."

"Power steering pump was leaking and caused serpentine belt to fail. Steering worked fine."

"Steering wheel hard to turn."

"Noise when turning for 5month. Then difficulty making turns. Fixed in a few hours by the neighborhood agarage."

"Power steering fluid leak. Repairman said it was the return hose to the pump. He said he replaced an O-ring at the hose fitting, but it still appears to be leaking. I have not diagnosed it yet or gotten another professional to look at it."

"Low speed turning was stiff"

"Power steering pump failed and required replacement."

"Took vehicle to shop due to loud whining / humming noise from the steering pump after driving for about 1+ hours. The Honda dealer changed out the power steering pump 3 times while still under warranty. Finally I located a TSB (technical service bulletin) that indicated Honda was aware of the problem which was caused by a defective steering fluid reservoir. I had to bring this to their attention to fix the problem, but many other customers got taken per vehicle forums. This vehicle also had to have the front drive axles replaced due to clicking noise, even though the CV boots had no damage or cracks."

"The pump had to be replaced in 2012"

"I had loud whining noises coming from my PS pump for several years. The Honda dealer replaced several O rings to address leakage before informing me this year that I actually needed a new PS pump and hoses. The problem was misdiagnosed while I had an extended warranty that would have covered a new PS pump and hoses. Further, I asked for a goodwill adjustment in 2018 since there had been a TSB on Odyssey PS pumps. After many emails and phone calls, I was informed that no goodwill adjustment was possible. I have owned my Honda since 2007, maintained in regularly, driven it carefully, with no accidents, and am disappointed that Honda was not willing to cover this expense for me. I have since changed Honda dealers and have found one that is more reasonable and trustworthy. My former dealer (Sussman Honda) was asking $1335 for this work. I had the exact work done at Freed Honda for $840. The lack of corporate responsibility for the PS issue was troubling, and I am repulsed by the huge profit margin that Sussman Honda apparently has on repairs such as these."

"Van started leaking power steering fluid."

"in the past year, I was told by the Honda dealer that I had a power steering leak and needed the pump replaced(as well as some other parts). VERY costly!! And I don't think this is something that should have broken. I always had the proper maintenance done on my van"

"Noisy and I believe it was replaced once already due to noise and stuttering at low speed turns. Same thing as before, noisy and is less effective at low speed turns."

"Power steering pump made noise and had to be replaced"

"Steering was not smooth and seemed to catch, especially at slow speeds"

"Replaced pump"

"Failed pump and seals"

"Difficulty turning steering wheel at very low speed or stop"

"Power steering pump failed at 160,000 miles, a rebuilt replacement unit was defective, had to buy a new unit from Honda. Hoses failed after new pump installed"

"Suction line sprung a leak allowing air to enter the system. Problem cause only noisy pump"

"Steering wheel became increasingly difficult to turn. Honda addressed the problem under warranty the first time but it happened again and had to pay for expensive fix again"

"Was making a squealing noise at low speeds. Had to have the power steering pump replaced"

"This is the second time the power steering has gone out"

"pump has failed; needs replacing"

"Whining noise"

"Had trouble turning when new. Honda said numerous time that it was working correctly. The steering pump started making noise. Pump replaced by non-Honda shop. All problems solved"

"Problems with the power steering was on recall from Honda, but we could never get the problem corrected. Took the van back three times to the dealership and still have issues with the power steering. I'm assuming we'd get it fixed if we paid for it"

"Power steering began to "Howl" when under load (turning)"

"Power steering pump is leaking. Tough turning when engine is not running high. Such as parking, etc"

"Power steering recall. Hard to turn at slow speeds"

"110K miles of NYC service, I treated the old Odyssey to a pair of Monroe Strut packs. Well worth the cost along with a set of neoprene bushings and a new pair of Sams clubs Pirelli tires"

"Struts are creaky when stopping"

"Front struts were worn out, left front bounce started investigation, had both struts and left ball joint replaced. Decide ot replace rear springs and shocks. Car rides like new, and will keep it since everything works on it"

"Rear shocks needed to be replaced, before we took Odyssey on a 7,000 mile road trip"

"Car started handling bumps rougher than normal."

"The rear passenger side shock seemed to have blown and was causing uneasy behavior over bumps. Both rear shocks were replaced"

"I had to replace both rear struts in the last two weeks!"

"needed replacement"

"The rear struts were changed less than two years ago and I had to replaced them two weeks ago"

"Clunking noise in the front end"

"Shocks are worn and needed replacement"

"shocks needed to be replaced"

"After 451,000 km the rear shocks needed changing. 1 strut and bushings were changed. I used my van like a truck at times and am pleased with the performance to date"

"One of the rear shocks were leaking. Had both rear shocks replaced"

"A rear shock leaked. Had to replace both shocks"

"Shocks were noisy even after replaced"

"Makes a loud electronic whining noise. Honda dealer doesn't know what's wrong"

"Rack and pinion got old and wore out at 180K miles"

"Rack & pinion required replacement."

"Replaced leaking power steering rack, and the power steering pump"

"Rack and pinion failed, along with tie robs and wheel bearings. The vehicle is has a lot of road noise so it is hard to tell if it has any other problems"

"When turning the steering wheel in either direction popping and cracking noises were emitted irregularly. Very hard to diagnose. Took it back to the dealer five, I said five, five, I really mean five times, before the problem was correctly diagnoses. The dealer, a well thought of Honda dealership (Auto Nation) just does a bad job working with customers, their cars, and the problems experienced with them, No one drove the car the first four times. They were extremely polite but incompetent. What do you do about that? Seems like a con-scam, indifference. I do not know. Thanks for listening!"

"I just had breaks and rotors installed. The technician said that I need a new Rack......$1100 estimate. This car had 290000 miles but still runs great and uses no oil. The tranny is getting tired but I just love this car. I may have to get anothe"

"Rack and pinion steering needed repair after 178,000 miles"

"Our mechanic has replaced the rack and pinion on three different occasions. There is a leak that has not yet been fixed because they can't find the source, and there is a loud rumble whenever the front end goes over even the slightest bump I the road"

"Rack and pinion had a leak of fluid in the system which could have led to failure and loss of control"

"Had to replace the rack & pinion a year ago"

"leaking seal front right front drive wheel"

"needed new tie rod"

"Covered in previous response"

"front end alignment, tires balanced and new tires did not cure the problem. This only does this when traveling above 60 mph"

"steering wheel would vibrate when braking at high speeds. Turned out to be worn ball joints, tierods and warped rotors"

"Experienced vibrations at 60 mph"

"The left axle wore out because the hydraulic motor mount went bad and caused the tire to go out of balance and caused the wheel alignment to go out"

"The ride is progressively worse. Sometimes feels like there's no shocks in it. Mechanic says everything is ok but admits something isn't right with how it drives. He suspects engine mounts, but I think there's something wrong with the suspension"

"150000 informed at routine maintenance that front end shocks and tie rods needed to be replaced but even after it was done, the steering wheel alignment was not perfect and I had to take it back for readjustment"

"Clunking noise over bumps. Need outer and possibly inner tie rod."

"Tie rods were lose so I had both of them replaced"

"The cabin noise from the uneven tire wear noise is really annoying"

"There is a design defect on 2007 odysseys The Right rear Camber is not adjustable..The car goes out of alignment and the dealer says we cannot fix that. after market has parts to fix it. Yes and it cost me 500 dollars to get it fixed"

"I rotate, balance and align the tires on regular basis, but the tires on the front wear outside the tires"

"I bought new tires but still was having vibration at certain speeds"

"Rumbling noise"

"One front wheel bearing was noisy and needed to be replaced"

"heard a squeak and had to replace Right Front bearings and CV joint"

"Both sliding door rollers failed in succession. Driver's side got stuck open, while we were away from home. I had to cut cable to force the door to close, so we could drive the vehicle. Once you cut the drive cable, the whole motor has to be replaced. We currently do not use that door, until I can find the time to replace the motor. I was able to replace the passenger side roller assembly, before it got stuck open"

"drivers side sliding door driven hindge bearings failed. Replaced myself and is very easy to do"

"Door motor had to be replaced. Was told this was common after 10 years"

"Power sliding door roller assembly failure. Roller part crumbled causing the door to malfunction and creating a large scratch/gouge in the paint located along the body trim"

"Sliding doors stick at times or close but vehicle does not sense that door is closed and alarm buzzes' constantly, eventually stops in a day or so"

"Rollers on Sliding doors wearing out"

"one sliding door stopped working"

"Sliding doors don't latch properly whenever it rains and is not safe for children to be riding in the back. The doors have opened when I was driving."

"The power sliding doors reverse when closing if on a downslope and open back up. This means that I have to get out and manually assist the door to close if the car is not level. Also the cable that closes the door sometimes sticks requiring us to pull hard on the door to get it to close. Also the passenger sliding door allows water to leak in during heavy rains. Honda's attempts to repair these problems have failed."

"Power sliding door control mechanism failed causing constant drain on battery. Had to disconnect battery when not in use to avoid total discharge in 2 days. Honda said they could not disconnect power door system to avoid the battery drain. Bearings on one sliding door also went bad and needed to be replaced to allow door to close properly."

"First passenger and then driver side sliding door. Nylon rear roller deteriorated. About 200k mi. Able to replace at home in a day for about $100 using online videos. I understand this was pretty common. Significant inconvenience with 5 kids in vehicle. Example if where a small increase in build cost would make a major difference in long term utility."

"sliding door ended up just needing grease"

"door started to stick, then eventually would not slide smoothly. had to be coaxed into closing by pushing on the door while it slid closed. got worse as time went on."

"Started hearing crunching noises when I opened the sliding doors. Apparently the parts had degraded and were coming apart. Both doors started having issues as the same time, but the driver's side was much worse. It was a ridiculous amount of money to replace some small parts to get the doors working again."

"Drivers side sliding door stuck open. Bearings on guide rollers failed. Need to be replaced."

"Rear sliding door mechanism broke, had to replace"

"Passenger side door does alarm keeps going off."

"The electric motors in the sliding doors stopped working in June of 2019."

"About two months ago the linkage on an exterior door handle that activates the sliding system broke, so you now have to activate that door using the indoor handle or the key fob. We have not had it repaired."

"Right and left slide doors would not operate remotely or from dashboard control. After two days without starting the car, the battery became discharged from a constant current drain. Removing a fuse stopped the battery drain but doors were still inoperable from the remote on dash control. When repaired, the left door would stop about one foot from closure and return to the open position but nothing could be seen in the tracks that was inhibiting the closure. This happened when the car was on downward grade but not on an upward grade. When level it happened 50% of the time."

"We have reported similar problems to CR in the past. But the passenger side sliding door failed to close properly (again), and required significant service (again). We have had problems with sliding doors since our first purchase of an Odyssey in 1999. Initially the problems were with the automatic closures. The 2007 doors are manual."

"Sliding doors get stuck and will not close - replaced part on one of the doors and now need to replace the same part on the other door. Not an expensive part, but a hassle to replace (did the replacement myself after watching online videos)."

"The sliding door cable broke due to corrosion. I don't expect a 12 year old vehicle to be perfect but the cables don't seem to be a replaceable part. The whole motor and pulley system will need to be purchased."

"Automatic side doors are tempormental and sometimes stick requiring a second activation to open or close. The nylon rollers that the doors ride on wear out and cause noisy and unreliable opening and closing. Bring back the manual side sliding doors !"

"Driver side door would not close and sounded warning continually when trying to drive"

"Motor to power door died and cable broke."

"Sliding door aft roller carriages wear out and are difficult to replace. Passenger sliding door power system cable broke and was difficult and/or expensive to replace."

"Both sliding doors failed to stay closed this year. One required maintenance on 2 occasions. Both required major repairs to the locking system, because they would open while driving."

"door mechanism failed to lock open when fully opened or lock closed when fully closed. was able to drive to Honda dealer to fix by manually securing the sliding door shut. Earlier, sliding door rollers on both sides failed making door very difficult to close or open. drivers side door seemed like it might actually fall off. these doors often stick closed - unlatch and then after driving the door can be opened"

"Nylon rollers on the tracks that allow the left side sliding door to open and close had worn out and needed replaced."

"Electronic sliding door failed."

"one sliding door stopped working reliably years ago, but not repaired due to price. recently the roller went on other sliding door and the door would not close all the way, either manually or power. it rolled open the whole way to the dealership. Had to spend $800 to get 2 sliding doors fixed. and recently, started having problems again with one of the doors. But the problem was actively happening when I brought to dealership. They told me most likely ANOTHER part went on the door, not the newly replaced roller. So back to just using one sliding door on van. Sliding doors are nice with babies and small kids, but never realized how costly and how much can go wrong!"

"passenger side sliding door jamming/rough opening and closing."

"automatic doors stop working due to electrical failures"

"Automatic sliding rear door repaired and still does not work properly."

"Left sliding door does not reliably latch completely requiring several attempts to properly close and turn off door open sensors"

"sliding door stuck open"

"Power sliding door failed"

"there have been problems from day one with sliding doors catching in the open or closed state. In looking at Kelly blue book comments, this seems to be a consistent problem which I feel should be covered by warrantee"

"Both rear sliding doors have required repair as they were both unUSble. Driver's side is workable now but still giving problems even with repair. Door will not close, especially in cold weather"

"Yesterday the power sliding door, passenger side started jerking and won't open or shut. I now have to decide if this is something I can repair myself"

"Both power sliding doors are making a strange noise when opening, and often start to open then close again, requiring a second attempt. Closing the doors also do the same"

"Side sliding doors frequently become inoperative and require dealer service to correct problems"

"Driver's side sliding door is difficult to open and makes noise when being opened"

"Failing center roller bearing on sliding doors. Have no repaired it yet"

"Driver side door sticks and is very difficult to open. Once opened with extreme force, if not opened frequently it will stick again. We have had it in to the dealer 3 times and they cannot or do not fix it"

"Passenger automatic door does not open consistently"

"One of the doors refuses to even close in the cold weather. The automatic door only works about half the time"

"Dealership repeated tested doors for years claiming no problem. We experienced doors stopping during opening and reversing to close. Also doors do not release and pop open. Now that vehicles is off extended warranty the nylon rollers were replaced"

"Rear sliding door started to malfunctioned, so had to fix"

"Our right rear sliding door had to be repaired due to an electrical malfunction"

"driver side passenger door works intermintently, can't open from inside"

"Left sliding door wouldn't open. Had to have extensive repair"

"Center rail door roller on passenger sliding door is worn out, so it sometimes has too much resistance while closing and causes the door to reverse. I have not yet gotten quotes to get it repaired yet"

"Both sliding doors have problems closing once opened. One door is non-functional almost 100% of the time and the other one 70% of the time"

"Sliding door on passenger side failed to work and had to be replaced"

"During cold weather, the side door latch did not want to close completely, which prevented the door from closing and caused the warning alarm to sound during the drive"

"Power sliding doors have begun to shudder, stop or reverse when opened or closed. Honda service stated that the roller and track system is a closed system that can not be lubricated and but rather replace costly parts. Found that spray lube helped"

"sliding doors both started malfunctioning, close with a jerking motion, take several attempts to close or will not close at all"

"Power door motor failed on passenger side. I replaced the motor on the passenger side and the middle and top rollers on both sides"

"Sliding door rollers no longer function"

"Automatic sliding door stopped working. Had to replace rollers"

"Sliding doors frequently fail to close when lever activated. Motor makes noise. Dealer has examined multiple times but insists no problem"

"Both sliding doors have failed at some point. The driver's side motor was replaced and the passenger side from time to time fails"

"sliding door drivers side will not latch during cold weather"

"We have had the sliding doors repaired several times both under and off warranty. Problems persist. The door will not open properly on the drivers side and jams sometimes"

"Sliding doors have a very weak little nylon roller that hardens and breaks. With the power door the safety sensors are tripped by the bumping and refuse to close"

"Both doors required a roller replacement. Honda charged $350 for one door (one roller) other door did somewhere else using original parts and paid $180"

"The passenger side sliding door failed and the arm had to be replaced"

"Both sliding doors required bearing replacement"

"The seals around sliding doors are cracking appear to be decomposing"

"Automatic doors get "jammed" constantly and - we were told it is an "attenuator" problem and that both sides need to be replaced for $250-300 each"

"Right sliding door wouldn't close. $900 to repair"

"Driver side sliding door won't stay closed, it pops open over and over"

"Due to the angle of the windshield, debris from the road like rocks kicked back causes the windshield to crack or outright break. This is the 5th time I've replace the windshield"

"The locks and latches are tied in with the sliding doors as stated previously. Some of the electronics when wet after a rain do not work properly until the weather drys up."

"Sliding door latch indicator faulty"

"The electric latches on the automatic sliding doors get weak and do not release quickly enough when opening the door and will produce a loud "pop.""

"During cold weather, the side door latch did not want to close completely, which prevented the door from closing and caused the warning alarm to sound during the drive"

"The front passenger seat belt goes into child restraint mode, if you lean forward or move in the seat so that the seat belt is pulled out to the end of its travel. In this mode the belt ratchet will let the seat belt retract but not extend again. This allows the seat belt to retract getting tighter and tighter until the passenger is unable to move and puts pressure on their neck. The only way for the passenger to relieve this discomfort is to unhook the seatbelt, let it completely retract and then pull the seatbelt back out and lock it in place again. Having to remove the seatbelt while the car is moving is dangerous. Any passenger who is on the large size where the seat belt is near full extension may have to do this almost any time they move around or lean forward. ie multiple times on a short drive !!! ALSO a handicapped person in the passenger seat could find themselves trapped by the ever tightening seatbelt, without the knowledge of how to releive their discomfort. Pulling or struggling with the belt will only allow it to continue tightening. Even though we have no children, HONDA refuses to disable the child restraint mode or to supply a longer seatbelt that does not reach its full extension so easily. I believe this is a danger to the passengers in this HONDA."

"seat back control broke"

"Severe water intrusion from sunroof"

"Tailgate hand latch mechanism corrosion caused this to stick open. Could be pushed back but spring would not return it. took it apart cleaned and greased and it now works fine"

"Lift struts on power tailgate failed and were replaced"

"Tailgate hatch hand lever gets jammed/stuck"

"The motor for the right side sliding door can go down, but cannot go back up without help"

"The power windows are extremely slow to raise in the winter and need physical help when temperatures reach minus 20"