Honda Odyssey Change Vehicle

"Sliding door track rollers, both sides, multiple failures with door dropping off. Rear latches on both failed. All repaired. Back hatch latch needed to be pushed back into place. Windshield motor failed, post locked up. Repaired"

"Problems to close the door (both sides). We finally had to change the whole mechanism from both doors"

"The driver side automatic sliding door stopped working properly. It would hang up and not close"

"Multiple warranty repairs on sliding doors. Doors would only open partially, or when fully closed the car would have an alarm stating that doors were open while vehicle was moving"

"Door hinge needed replacd"

"The rear middle guides finished wearing out"

"Door will not open, have to use just one side"

"Van has VMI adaptations for wheelchairs. Sliding door, ramp on right do not function together well. Should be repaired, but expensive."

"7 times I had to have sliding doors fixed - would not latch properly"

"The sliding doors on both the drivers and passengers sides of the vehicle often trip the sensor while closing resulting in the doors reversing direction and start to open instead of close. I stop the door from opening by hitting the door close button and hit the door close button a second time to get it to start closing again. This happens more often when the front of the car is pointing downhill. This started to happen after having the car for over 8 years and after a lot of use with the kids (family of 5)."

"door slider roller need to be replaced after market parts $64 and youtube repair tutorial fixed both sides in an hour. Probably $500 job by dealership. Passenger side fails first because of letting out children on curb side of vehicle."

"Passenger sliding door stopped working. Fix covered by extended warranty."

"Automatic sliding doors often don't close without help. They close partially and then reverse back to open."

"Rollers faulty after about 125,000 miles"

"one electric door started failing a couple weeks after the warranty was out. $350. Then the other went. Now the first one is failing again. Honda's mechanism is inferior. (I had a '99 Ford Windstar, never had a problem with electric doors in 130,000 miles)"

"Door would no longer close automatically. This happened to the passenger side door twice. One involved a replacement part."

"The power sliding doors frequently fail to close. Turning off or overriding the powered sliding doors interferes with interior locks and locking/unlocking with key fob."

"Hard to open and close"

"The sliding doors become very sticky from time to time and they are very hard to open. These are manual sliding doors."

"Occasionally the electric doors will not close or open"

"The power sliding door latching motor assy quit holding the door in after closing. Replaced the motor assy with a new one from Amazon."

"Pulley on the sliding doors starts to fail"

"Sliding doors don't close well (very poor handles), and one periodically seizes partly open, even after lubricating"

"sliding door behind driver sticks.....no repair has been able to fix the intermittent inability to open the door. frequently it opens just enough to turn the indicator light on, but not enough to be noticeable. frustrating"

"Passenger side power sliding door froze in the open position requiring the complete replacement of the power door motor and associated parts"

"driver rear door sticks and is very hard to initiate opening"

"driver side slider door sometimes won't close automatically, I've oiled it several times, this helps for a while"

"The automatic sliding door was having problems closing"

"The drivers door would not stay open when getting out of the car. The door stop hinge had to be replaced. Now it works great"

"sliding door malfunctioned and had to be opened mannually. still has occassional problems"

"THE ROLLERS IN SLIDING DOOR WORE OUT AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. FORTUNATELY A FRIEND WITH A BODY SHOP FIXED MY DOOR FOR $150"

"Sliding doors were not operating smoothly and sometimes made a grinding noise or closed in a jerky movement along the track. I just had the rollers replaced on both sides to eliminate my fear that the doors might fail to open or close"

"Drivers side sliding door does not always open on 1st or 2nd attempts. Gears make noise and sometimes do not engage and open/close the door"

"A part in the mechanism that automatically opens/closes the driver's side door failed, making it necessary to operate it manually, which was very difficult"

"Interior handle for passenger sliding door does not work"

"Replace bearings"

"Weight bearing support surface of sliding door failed and need to be replace. Total repair cost was approximately $300"

"really same as prior, just different category"

"rear doors needed activator (solenoid) replaced on both doors and there is some trouble with the remote sensor for the rear door"

"Door hinges need grease; doors close roughly and return to open position"

"sliding passenger door was popping back when shut. problem was worn middle roller, replaced it, all is well. also interior lights starting to fail, replaced with LEDs"

"Driver's side sliding door could not be unlocked and would not open. Problem was the safety switch in the gas filler compartment was no longer functional, thus the sliding door would not unlock."

"Power sliding door cable broke. But repair required full replacement of mechanism. Local mechanic did repair. About 1k$."

"had fixed both automatic passenger sliding doors which became stuck"

"Doors would not latch caused by alignment of door"

"automatic rear latch failed to operate/ replaced"

"The automatic locking mechanism for the tailgate does not engage when the tailgate closes automatically. The tailgate does lock however if I manually push the tailgate closed."

"Master door lock stopped responding to the remote. The remote works after the driver's door unlocked with the mechanical key."

"Lock on the glove compartment would not open. Shop had to break in to box and order another lock mechanism"

"there is intermittent problems opening the rear doors with the remote"

"sliding door on drivers side would not open, had to have the dealer fix it."

"I bought my van from a Honda new car dealership in South Atlanta. Not long ago the mirror on the passenger side was broken. I attempted to replace it myself as the only problem was the broken glass. I could not do it and I took it to a Bodyshop owned by a friend. While I was told the vehicle had not been wrecked I found out that the dealership lied to me. I could not fix the mirror because I had the wrong make/year compared to what was on the vehicle. This is one of the reasons I will soon be going to a new Toyota."

"The seat memory setting on the driver's seat periodically loses its setting and has to be re-set. This is irritating"

"There was leaking into the interior from seams on the roof."

"Hatch handle must be manually pushed back into position after opening, even with lubrication"

"Hard to close"

"Areas where hood and front fenders, along where rear fenders join the rest of the body. These connections are handled by plastic bolts which sheer off at the least pressure or torque. The repair is very expensive"

"fender left front slightly loose"

"rubber seals in door are loose"

"Front bumper has separated from side moldng"

"Gaskets around the sliding door keep coming out. They work themselves loos and flap in the wind. It is very difficult to work them back on to the door track where they belong. Other pet peeve is that all of the external plastics bleached in the first couple of years of ownership. Florida sun is harsh. But these went faster than other makes of vehicles I have owned"

"Splash shield came loose and had to be reattached, twice. Due to driving over 'parking bumps'"

"The piece of body trim that wraps around the front of the vehicle suffers from attachments that are easy to dislodge. The design is such that the trim is very low to the ground, so it can get caught on things such as parking bumpers. The trim came loose one time a few years ago (after getting snagged on a parking bumper) and the piece of trim now seems very easy to dislodge."

"front bumper loose as well as plastic under front of engine"

"The lower front body molding is plastic and held on by clips that break or loosen frequently. I have a hard time keeping that piece secured properly. In contrast, our earlier 2000 Honda Odyssey was built with much better quality and we had never experienced a problem like this before (either the 2000 van)."

"Trim not put on well. Snapped off and is not just having there"

"front end of car is poorly designed: too low and is constantly caught on curbs, parking curbs, even driveway entrances. front end bumper has had to be replaced, and continually slammed back on. With several different drivers it has been difficult"

"body panels for front and rear quarter panels are not quite aligned. The clips holding them together are apparently broken. at this point it is a cosmetic problem"

"Side panel towards the rear keeps popping out, due to clips that won't hold"

"Door edge guards fell off"

"front bumper covers are easily loosened and misaligned by light impacts with snow banks"

"bumper molding comes away from frame very easily, and is difficult to get back in place"

"Driver bumper trim attachments need to be popped back into place from time-to-time. No accidents involved"

"Front and rear moldings don't stay in tight at joints"

"A portion of the weather stripping on the frame for the driver's side sliding door fell off/was missing"

"trim on bottom of sliding passenger door has come apart exposing sharp wires"

"Loose panels"

"Paint peeled off on the back of the van on the top while washing car. The car is parked outside in Tucson, Arizona's hot climate"

"Premature paint peeling on roof, which has been reported as a problem that Honda has experienced on numerous models, including the Odyssey. Honda is unwilling to help owners with this known problem"

"Front bumper is peeling paint"

"The paint looks like someone poured acid over the front of the car. Paint almost looks as though the car ran through a sandstorm with the paint almost removed on the hood and roof above the windshield. I will have to have the car repainted. Horrible. Bad enough to prevent me from buying another Honda"

"Ont eh body just behind the sliding door, in the door jamb area where the jamb sheet metal bends into the body skin (almost 90 degree bend) the paint is failing. The color of the paint is silver, I don't know if the denisty or otehr qualities of teh paint are influenced by the paint color"

"2010 Odysseys (made in Alabama) have a problem with paint peeling. The roof on our vehicle peeled away after three years. The dealer turned a blind eye and our extended warranty did not cover the problem. American Honda ended up paying part of the bill, but would not cover repainting the entire car. I saw via the Internet that the problem was widespread on several model years. I will not buy another Honda"

"Poor paint quality"

"Exterior paint faded on hood and (front) top of vehicle in 2016."

"Paint is fading between windshiekd and sun-roof"

"the hood and roof peeled badly in our desert sun. i'm told this is a common problem for Honda's from around 2010. got them repainted last summer."

"The paint tends to peel around the rear bumper. I have not repaired it because it is not worth the expense."

"the paint faded fairly quickly from new"

"Paint started chipping and fading in areas especially around the windows. The paint is chipping and flaking."

"mild rust near wheel wells. Paint easy to chip in certain areas"

"Color layer on rear plastic bumper is peeling off"

"Paint job very poor. My professional car waxer said the paint is rubbing off, too thin and can't be buffed anymore. No scratch resistance what so ever. A cheap paint job that may deter me from buying Honda again"

"I've never had the original car paint job fail like this van. I have kept it garaged for the last 3 years"

"paint bleached on top of car above windshield"

"Honda aware of peeling paint problems with this vehicle; however, they are unwilling to repair."

"The finish paint is fading and despite being washed is still dull looking. Waxing helps somewhat."

"Paint continues to wear off, lose it's it's sheen, and altogether peeling off in some spots."

"I have had to get the car partially repainted. American Honda covered part of the cost. The 2010 Odyssey has a severe paint peeling issue. The problem continues, but I rather doubt Honda will help again."

"Presence of diffuse rust on the hatch, around the windows front seats"

"Tail door, rusting around light fixtures where mounted"

"Essentially, my problem is about the rusting of the interior panels of the car. After a fender bender, the body shop owner showed me a photo showing that the bottom of the interior pannels were all rusted away and this after only 7-8 years of service... He then told me that the car was 'ripe' and that I should seriously think about selling it before the rust would show trough the exterior panels. And that was two years ago... Actually, nothing shows externally and the car looks terrific. It's like that they forgot to apply internal coating to the interior panels of the car... I don't know what to do..."

"A rust hole in the trunk at the top that caused water to fill the trunk"

"rust on the driver door sil"

"where ever the thin paint scratched there is rust"

"Last autum this vehicle had an accident in the rear part of the car. I insisted with the insurance company that the repairs be made by a Honda repair shop which was done. Upon the inspection, the inspector took photos that he sent me that showed extensive corrosion of the lower section of the body of the car. Even though I respected rigourusly the maintenance of this car at a Honda dealership, I was surprised to learn of this problem. The Honda inspector even told me that the car was ripe and that I should seriously consider selling it. Very disturbing of a car that had only 7 years on the road."

"The alarm system on our 2010 Odyssey is unreliable and I have had to replace the battery twice this past year. The dealer said the problem was a bad fuse box, but $750 dollars later the problem is back......the alarm goes off if set and when the car is not disturbed in any way. I will not buy another Honda"

"Alarm would go off on its own. Interior & running lights would come on & drain battery as they couldn't be turned off. Dealer repair couldn't find cause, trying 3 different times"

"Alarm suddenly began going off. Dealership could not fix it after several attempts. I had to install a battery on/off switch (very inconvenient)."

"The vehicle is trouble-prone and repairs at the dealer are very expensive. No local shops will work on the vehicle."

"Alarm would go off erratically when car was parked in driveway."

"The alarm system in the 2010 Odyssey has gremlins. It goes off when you don't expect it to---whether armed or not. If the car is left in the rain you ar asking for trouble, because the alarm will go off. I have had the car to the Honda dealer four times this past year and lost two batteries. The problem has not been fixed despite a $790 repair bill. Will you buy my car?"

"Electrical problems with the left sliding door, at times becomes stuck open and can take several minutes to close. We have to use manual open and shut for that door, and automatic for the other"

"tailgate quit working, also rear camera"

"The automatic door would not slide closed. The other issue was with the power steering which needed the pump replaced."

"The sliding door switch would not operate the door. The cable was broken"

"Both rear backup light/tail light assemblies started leaking water, especially in the car wash. Both had to be replaced at a cost of $524.00 for the pair with labor. Not something I have ever encountered on any vehicle before"

"Rainwater leaks into rear tailight"

"Water leaks into the rear exterior lights. I had to replace both the driver and passenger side rear exterior lights. The replaced lights also leaked water after some time."

"Lights came on when ignition was turned off."

"Taillight seals leaked. Water got inside the lens housing and had to be changed. Twice!"

"Lens covers for backup lights are not weatherproof and collect water inside the lens covers"

"Seal around right rear lights failed and water entered area from rain"

"Water in taillights"

"The rear tail lights fill with water. They have been replaced on one side twice and the other three times and one side still has moisture in it"

"Tailgate light fixture leaks, need to replace"

"Water accumulation in a rear light requiring replacement"

"tail lights take in water when it rains"

"Tailight assembly fills with water during rain"

"There are several gauges light that do not work. Parts of the panels do not light up including temp controls and the automatic gear shift. It make it hard to change these at night and possibly dangerous."

"Don't remember time frame but headlights would turn on when then ignition was turned off"

"Drivers seat rely or other wiring problem caused the seat not to work."

"The front cabin lighting system harness required replacement due to a short."

"Front dome light does not work. Replaced bulb, but technician said it could be some other circuit board that would cost $100+ to fix. Did not do it."

"Drivers map light is continually burning out. The push function of the light is also not working correctly."

"Driver side overhead light stopped working 1 day past warranty. $1000 dollar repair"

"Interior front seat lights burn out every 6 months. Get the light replaced and it continues to burn out. Back seat lights haven't been replaced once"

"They don't always work -sometimes they do - so it is not a blown bulb"

"map light fixture failed and needed to be replaced"

"Dealer replaced the map light base assembly due to malfunction."

"Driver side over head light not working; new bulb no help. Replaced bulb on passenger side overhead light."

"The circuit board wore out on the driver side master electric window control switch and needed replacing and now the keyless entry doesn't function properly."

"The keyless entry stopped working, so now we can only enter the car using the actual key. The other issue seen is that the power locks will lock and unlock randomly while driving. The issues followed after repair work that was done to the vehicle after being hit by another car, which damaged the area around the rear passenger tire. Did not have these problems in the weeks prior to the repair, but repair shop would not fix the issues because they weren't caused by the accident. The van is over 10 years old, and any inspection of the electrical system will be costly; money better spent on a new car. And it won't be a Honda, although the vehicle was generally reliable during its time."

"the automatic power sliding doors would not close; random. Unsure of cause"

"would not work - had fixed at dealer"

"A warning code appeared on my dashboard saying the tire pressure system needed to be evaluated/replaced due to malfunction."

"Faulty sensors problematic very costly"

"Tire pressure monitoring system failed and needed replacement."

"From pot holes in road ruined two of them"

"stopped working and had to have it serviced. Fixed N//C"

"TPM light constantly on"

"The indicator light is always on - even after having pressure checked by an oil changing place. TPMS"

"One was bad, replaced it still not working. Now I am just living with it."

"Brake warning light doesn't fully go out after parking break is disengaged"

"Parking warning failed to work properly"

"The cooling system relay blew a few years ago. They thought it was the alternatpr and replaced that. Then that one went out"

"replaced faulty alternator"

"Alternator was replaced in 2018"

"Battery light came on... I continued driving, ignoring the light. I was able to drive considerable distances before it completely quit on me. That is why the car became inoperable"

"The Alternator failed and had to be replaced. The warning light for the electrical system came on first"

"alternator not charging sufficiently at idle rpm. Had to special order part due to rarity of Honda alternator failure"

"Alternator failed during a long road trip to Florida in June. First sign was problem with A/C, then dashboard indicator showed problem with electrical system. Found local Honda dealer and was able to drive to dealer for repair"

"I HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR"

"Alternator caused a short that melted fuse box and shut down all electrical systems. Was able to coast to a safe place to be towed for repairs."

"Alternator failed, battery died, and the car was not driveable. Towed to dealer, alternator replaced, problem solved."

"replaced faulty alternator"

"The battery light came on about an hour away from home. The transmission started slipping and then, while at an intersection, the car would barely move and we were able to pull into an Advance Auto and wait for a tow truck."

"Battery was replaced by dealer and failed early. Dealer replaced"

"We had to have the battery replaced for the third time. Or maybe the fourth. If we leave the car parked for any length of time (we live in a cold climate), even plugged in, the battery dies. It drives me crazy"

"Heat in Arizona drains batteries"

"The system does NOT recognize our home address although our subdivision has existed since 1983! We cannot clear previous destinations from our system. We are unsure if issues with entire computer system are being compromised by ongoing, unrepairable BATTERY problem. Car MUST BE USED at least every3days or battery is DEAD. System constantly monitors itself causing issue. Dealership response= minivan/family car is expected to be used daily...thus recharging battery. We have “killswitch”or “trickle charger” on the Odyssey since we use it for only long trips our once a week for volunteer work. Ongoing problem prevalent for many Odyssey’s over many years...uncorrected design flaws. Very disappointed...I also own a 1994 !!!!Accord=still perfectly working except for low cool from air conditioner unit!!!!"

"Replaced the battery and still have occasional difficulty starting, having to be jumped multiple times. Not yet seen by a mechanic to diagnose true electrical problem."

"went bad too fast - twice so far"

"battery died at 60,000 miles. Replaced with new one from Costco. No problems since"

"2 years, battery had to be replaced"

"2nd dead battery in 2 years. Was told that Odysseys can produce significant drain on battery and that regular battery failure is not uncommon"

"I did not retain a charge. Had to be replaced"

"The battery positive cable clamp cracked and would not conduct electricity. The dealer has a price posted for replacing this part so it must be common"

"Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed coils and spark plugs and problem is fixed."

"Standard Odyssey problem with (I believe) cylinder 5 and or 6. It wasn't a recall but the fault was covered by Honda. Impacted gas milage and I could hear the engine wasn't running quite right. No significant impact to engine performance"

"Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed coils and spark plugs and problem is fixed."

"Replaced spark plugs after only 5kmiles-120kcheck up. Per Dealer problem is probably a front rocker arm oil control valve that is leaking. Also car is burning oil. Dealer wants around $2000 to fix and states Honda will not help pay for repair even though Honda has issued service bulletin on. We have also had problems with the hydraulic lifts for the tailgate, which Honda only reluctantly gave us a partial refund on repair. We keep our cars for 15 to 25 years and this is the only car that the manufacturer has not stood behind their product."

"Cylinder #3 burns oil, and the plug becomes oil fouled. It has done this for years. I have to swap plugs every 10k miles to prevent the fouled plug from failing and the car becoming inoperable."

"Started with check engine light. Warranty replaced plugs and 2 oxygen sensors"

"spark plug failure"

"Car started miss firing and bucking. Could not drive and were out of town. Towed to Honda dealer. Found it was involved in a recall. Something about the number one plug burning out due to the ECO system. Notified it is now full coverage and they cha"

"Check Engine light came on during long road trip. Engine codes indicated that cylinder 4 was having issues. Was told that I could drive with it. Took to Dealer when I got home, and they fixed issue and it was covered by warranty. MPG increased"

"Cylinder failure. Cylinder misfire"

"The problems with the spark plugs caused the engine to misfire and the yellow light began blinking on the dashboard."

"Intermittent electrical fault caused occasional dead battery. Dealer could not find problem. Became serious after warranty expired with electrical arcing and burning. Deal fixed under warranty since symtoms reported during warranty period"

"Noticed noise when starting car(cold). Had shop check it out and replace."

"There was a loud noise, a slightly strange smell and the A/C stopped working. It hasn't worked since. The dealership told us what the issue was and quoted us an ridiculous amount to replace it. We've gone without A/C this season because even at a local car repair, it's quite a bit of money to fix it."

"Live in Az last summer in 100 degree heat air conditioner stopped working effectively"

"The compressor unit is just behind the front bumper Is vulnerable to damage. In the 10 years we have owned the vehicle it had to be replaced twice."

"The air just stopped getting cold. I parked it because it is hot here in south Georgia and will get it fixed before I drive it again. The fix is slowed because of Covid-19."

"It started with coolant leak. Fixed it twice. It turned out the compressor was leaking. Even after it was resolved, still feel it is not cooling as well as Toyota Avalon"

"The problem started when I was driving from NY to Florida last October in 100 degree temperatures. It was resolved when I got to Florida and had the condenser replaced."

"It went out - a relatively simple fix - but no one could diagnose it. We paid hundreds of dollars for a new alternator we did not need!"

"AC relay failed, causing pressure to build up in system and blew relief valve, releasing all the refrigerant"

"The AC stopped working (no cold air), took it in to the dealer and they said there was a hole in the line to the compressor requiring the compressor needing to be replaced"

"air compressor on the AC went out and had to be replaced"

"Required replacement compressor. The dealership paid for this after we complained about the reliability"

"System failed to cool in two of three zones within the car"

"Clutch was not activating. Simple repair at my local shop. Not expensive."

"A.C. would not cool. Bad A.C. Relay"

"The clutch for the air conditioner stopped working ($1,300 repair), so the automatic climate control no longer turns on"

"Randomly stops working. Usually works again if the car is shut off and restarted. Sometimes doesn't work for days. Taken to dealer 3x, they've suggested adding refrigerant (it's full), replacing the air conditioner (when it's called for it works), and offered me a good deal on a new Odyssey. Local shop diagnosed the problem in an hour, explained how it needed to be repaired, and had it fixed 2 hours after getting the replacement climate control module"

"-Inability to control rear vents from front controls (this is a safety issue because it distracts parents)"

"Air conditioning was not cooling properly, so added 1 can freon. Then A/C became intermittent and mechanic said it was overcharged and removed extra freon. Now does not cool adequatly again."

"AC has been inoperable and fixed several times over the past few years."

"I have had to replace the interior blower fan for the HVAC system on this vehicle 3 times."

"The condenser had a leak"

"My ac was mostly blowing warm-hot air. After investigating, I found out that Honda has a known relay sensor problem. So I replaced the sensor"

"Electrical switch for compressor was sticking causing the compressor to run and drain battery"

"A relay failed, making the compressor run continuously and making it over pressurize the compressor, sounding like a jack hammer. The relay was replaced and car worked fine again"

"relay for the A/C had to be replaced. $100.00"

"SOME SORT OF SWITCH DEALING WITH THE AIR CONDITIONING UNIT DREMAINED ON AND DRAINED THE BATTERY"

"Drivers side left leg is always too cold in cold weather even when heat control is directed to floor. Heater was changed under warranty with no improvement. It seems the heat floor outlet is badly designed."

"The vent system blows hot air when I have it on cool or outside air. It is as if a switch is stuck somewhere. I turn it off and on to outwit the system"

"Had a valve failure of some sort. Cost $200 to fix"

"Lines to rear a.c. corroded and leaked. Same problem with previous Odyssey 2005"

"Apparently the brackets supporting the refrigerant tubing to the read a/c system cause the tubing to corrode. As the car gets older the cost to replace those lines to go to the read a/c unit is not worth the fix as there is a chance the rear system will fail in the next few years...once again due to age."

"The refrigerant leaked out because the condenser was bad. Took the Honda Odyssey to the dealership for repair."

"Started over a year ago, kept having different parts leak over the last year. Finally hope all the leaks have been found."

"Low refrigerant caused the clutch to rapidly cycle, smoking the serpentine belt. $540 repair bill"

"AC cooling would fail periodically and Honda was unable to diagnose. A recharge of the coolant would get the system working properly for 6-8 months before it would stop cooling. Honda was finally able to detect the issue and make the repair. The process was frustrating and inconvenient."

"6 occurrences of misfire on cylinder #2 in the last 12 months alone. Repairs included software upgrade, replacing all gaskets & rings, rebuilding the cylinder, replacing spark plugs and connectors. Not reliable at all!"

"excessive oil consumption,one quart every 500 miles"

"An engine malfunction required repair of several of the cylinders and related parts"

"Description: SERVICE BULLETIN - THE PISTON RINGS ON CERTAIN CYLINDERS MAY ROTATE AND ALIGN WHICH CAN LEAD TO SPARK PLUG FOULING. SPARK PLUG FOULING MAY RESULT IN ROUGH ENGINE IDLE AND/OR ENGINE MISFIRE - NHTSA #10083965"

"Car has a defective engine. Honda has to rebuild them when they start burning oil. Totally disappointed with quality. Have decided to sell and otherwise would not have done so"

"piston rings failed"

"I had problems with oil consumption at 1 quart every 1,000 to 1,500 miles and Honda told me that was within their limits. I fouled a plug and through the initial repair it was discovered I needed a short block, which Honda covered"

"The engine has always burned some oil, even when brand new. The problem worsened after 100,000 miles. I reported the problem to Honda and they monitored the car. At 155,000 miles they replaced piston rings, spark plugs, etc. because the engine was fouled with oil residue. To their credit, Honda paid for the repairs"

"Oil ring failure"

"At about 60K miles, the engine started running rough and the check engine light started flashing. The van was stopped and towed to the dealer. The dealer replaced a fouled spark plug and reprogrammed the variable cylinder management control software. Next, the engine started consuming oil intermittently with the worst consumption check showing about 700 miles to a quart of oil. The dealer had just received permission from Honda to re-ring 3 pistons in the engine when the engine started running"

"At a routine maintenance the dealer discovered that the rings were bad in three cylinders, causing a loss of power. They had previously replaced the spark plugs prematurely on these cylinders. This problem is apparently related to the eco system that shuts down cylinders when extra power is not needed. I had bought the car as factory certified but was past the extended warranty. Honda covered the cost of what was essentially a complete tear down and rebuild of the engine, even thought the mileage was around 110K at the time."

"Pistons failed. Had them replaced. 10 days later, entire engine failed. Honda dealer refused to take responsibility that it was somthing they did that caused the engine to seize up."

"Light came on went immediately to dealer had to replace engine. Not done in acceptable time frame stated."

"Engine piston rings had to be replaced. Due the oil bypassing rings causing spark plug fouling and engine missing and multiple error codes. Honda would not reimburse for our cost for problem being addressed on road even though it was a problem that began before warranty coverage. And this was a known problem by Honda motor company."

"Car burning oil. Dealer replaced engine at no charge to me and gave me a rental car to use as this took about a week. I am satisfied"

"Rings in V-Tec engine replaced by manufacturer at no cost"

"Excessive oil consumption until the rebuild"

"The repair was extensive and took two days to complete.. Involved piston ring replacement in addition to multiple other parts for a total of more than $2,000. All repairs were under warranty"

"Vehicle serviced for warranty issue in engine head. When repair was made, engine had a pronounced knock, not previously present. Dealer and Honda negotiated to replace engine block at no cost to consumer. In total, engine short block and head replaced."

"engine misfiring"

"Variable cylinder management caused the non running cylinders to get gunked up with oil. Honda was compelled to fix based on Class Action Lawsuit regarding this issue. Wasn't even given a rental car during the week car was repaired!"

"Cylendar rings were leaking. The car suddenly put out a puff of smoke, began driving very rough and he engine light flashing. I drove the car home, about 7 miles, and had it towed to Honda. The issue was covered by an extended warrantee and paid in full by Honda. We had a similar, but more minor, issue a couple years previous where a cylendar was misfiring causing a rough idle and the Econ mode to not function. This was also fully covered by Honda extended warrantee."

"timing belt replace and also bent cam shaft"

"The timing belt went out before 100000 miles"

"This was routine maintenance to replace timing belt and water pump at 100000 miles. However, it was very expensive"

"Had to replace the timing belt. Expensive cost. We've had to do this on other Honda's too (Accord). Knew it was coming. Have a Lexus, which doesn't report need to EVER replace timing belt. Why do we have to on the Honda."

"The axle and bushings were prematurely worn out and replaced free of charge due to a defect / recall. Unannounced but was covered when I complained"

"2010 Odyssey has been to the dealer at least 5 times for front end vibration. Ever time there is a new excuse. This 2010 is our third Honda Odyssey and it has been nothing but trouble.Wind noise is loud"

"Vehicle started vibrating at higher speeds, eventually including lower speeds. Dealership looked twice, but they could not determine the problem. It has since subsided, but it is still somewhat existent"

"The van surges and then slows a bit all the time. Freeway driveway is annoying. Dealer says they all do this. Unacceptable"

"Replaced half-shafts"

"Took the vehicle to the dealer for constant shudder when accelerating. Thought it was unbalanced wheels or bad tires. No fix though. Eventually, according to dealer both axles replaced and dealer expense and it drives OK now. Sorry to be vague - but so was the explanation from the dealer"

"The car would shake at 50 mph. The axles where bent"

"Soon after purchasing the van, mild to moderate front end vibration was noticed at highway speeds, 50 to 70 MPH, when applying additional power to climb hills or accelerate. There was no vibration under straight and level steady state conditions. The dealer replaced both axle shafts under CPO warranty. One or both shafts had worn CV joints or were out of balance. Vibration is now gone, front end noises have gone away (didn't know they were related but they were), and steering feels much tigh"

"Leaking boot requiring axle replacement"

"axles bad, caused a bunch of problems,"

"It developed a vibration which was solved by replacing both axles."

"Rear bearing went out and had to be replaced"

"Had to replace a front axel because of wear"

"Leaking seal"

"shaking around 60 mph, Replaced both front axles"

"we keep a check engine light and the engine is burning a ton of oil. This has been a problem for a couple of years. We also had a problem with the battery wires being corroded on a regular basis. The car has just not been very reliable - at least not as reliable as our other HOnda."

"alternator packed it in while we were in Florida we had it replaced. When we got home we found when they replaced the alternator they damaged a pulley and the new alternator was faulty and had to be replaced. The repair bill in Florida was $800 C to fix in Canada cost another $1500."

"Electrical failure of a relay preventing AC working"

"Honda dealer in take for servicing Aircond works intermittently. 1st visit - flushed and recharged aircond system $450 Unit still worked only intermittently 2nd visit - replaced clutch/belt & hoses $400 Unit still worked only intermittently 3rd visit - replaced compressor $750 Unit still worked only intermittently Good search - 2010 Honda Odyssey intermittent problem air conditioner. Free Air cond relay $11.64 replaced myself in 3 mins Working Goodbye Honda! Last Honda I will ever buy."

"seems to have a known problem with thermostat, or electrical regulator failing, allowing the van to overheat"

"A/C stopped working due to failed relay"

"Engine warning system often came on telling us we had a problem; took several visits to resolve the problem and get the warning to stop"

"The bearings in the timing belt pulleys went bad and all were replaced and the timing belt was replaced at the same time even though there was not anything wrong with it"

"There is a "Factory bulletin on the books that if the oil consumption increases after computer adjustment, Honda will rebuild the engine, "due to bad rings". The problem this could happen at anytime. I mean while you are driving oil levels go to very low without warning. I have convinced the local service manager to put our car on a consumption test; hope that works they say this will be " under warranty""

"Twice since I have had the car, the engine accelerated unexpectedly as I was trying to stop. Once about 5 years ago and I second time last week. I pushed the brake as had as I could and finally shifted into neutral. The car stopped and the acceleration ceased and the car operated normally. I'm not sure what caused the problem"

"Unusual engine "roaring" sound developed; very loud and took three visits to find and correct the problem. A very unusual and loud sound"

"Described above, all related"

"engine began knocking and running rough. took it to the dealer who fixed it under warranty"

"Tapping noise started at 148000 miles. Dealer tore down top of engine but tap persists. No noticebale affect on driveability at this time."

"Valve cover gasket leak on left side"

"We took the van to numerous repair shops (never to the dealer) who would give us an explanation...charge us a fortune to fix it...only to have the leaks keep dripping in our driveway."

"Updated CD does not correct lack of recognition of established roads and locations. Oil leak is minor but due to a stripped oil pan plug. Our mechanic says that aluminum pan can have this issue because of the aluminum composition of unit and repeated openings and closures from oil changes."

"The VTEC Silenoid valve gasket had to be replaced"

"Drain plug in the oil pan stripped."

"it has twice completely gone through all oil-red light coming on--before the regularly scheduled oil change. There is a recall on excessive oil consumption on 2010 but so far Honda won't fix. I am really mad about it. I wonder if dealer won't fix because I am an older woman--and if my husband were still alive and dealing with them, they would have already repaired."

"The car has been into three different garages and they all claim the lead is from a specific area and then when I get it home, there's still a small puddle in my driveway daily."

"The oil pressure sensor failed and it was difficult to find out in pressure was low or a false reading"

"computer readings were wrong and after multiple trips to the service centre it turned out to be dirt in the injectors"

"Recall and they replaced the fuel pump module"

"Fuel pump failed two days after I had the cap replaced via a recall"

"factory recall for clamps of fuel pump"

"factory recall"

"Due to poor quality work on replacing a fuel system part for a factory recall, a hose came loose from the fuel pump while driving and sprayed gasoline under the car"

"Honda recalled the fittings indicating they could leak"

"Recall - replaced under recall notice"

"recall"

"CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CODE P0134) REPLACED REAR OXYGEN SENSOR"

"Replaced by Honda,"

"O2 sensor went out"

"DVD drive failure to read disk"

"the Navigation system had errors and had to be replaced"

"Recall on gps system"

"Initially shut down after an hour. Had to shut car down to restart GPS. Now, with new disc it still recycles through off after an hour or so but comes back on by itself"