Honda Pilot Change Vehicle

"The headliner fabric is sagging in several places. Appears the adhesive is beginning to fail"

"cloth lined panel of driver side front door below window coming off"

"the paint is very easy to scratch and stains"

"2 inch sections of paint falling off hood and roof near windshield. Car has been taken care of, waxed regularly"

"The plastic parts of the exterior trim are fading starting to crack."

"The paint on the hood is severely oxidized while the rest of the paint on the car looks great still."

"Bad clear coat"

"The paint on the car has been fading in one major section of the car. There are two panels that are effected."

"Portions of the body have paid that is peeling and cracking. Started about 8 years ago."

"About 2 years ago, I noticed peeling/oxidization on the body just above the windshield. I didn't realize, until I was on a ladder, that it was also on the roof of the car. Looked up problem online and saw a recall was back in 2014."

"clear coat is flaking off"

"The paint on the side of the car between the rear passenger window and the tailgate window is gone. Also the is a 10 inch diameter spot on the roof in front of the sunroof that has no paint left."

"Fading"

"chalking"

"Paint on body trim peeling"

"RUST AT THE REAR WHEEL WELLS"

"It is over both rear wheel wells"

"Rust is bubbling under paint behind each rear wheel well. Seems to be a design defect. Otherwise paint in good shape"

"rusting around the passenger side rear wheel well"

"Rust at lower part of door"

"I've had a number of Honda's over the years and have never experienced rust on any of my cars including my 20+ year old Accord so this surprised me"

"typical rusting around wheel wells, hood, windshield"

"Body rust is occurring around the rear support strut. It will have to be repaired to pass inspection."

"There is a small amount of rust around the passenger door seals. Also my headlights get chalked and require deglazing. I have found that toothpaste and an old toothbrush helps this problem."

"Several areas of body rust through and one serious rust area in the rear underbody structure."

",Rust is forming near the rear wheel wells. The rust is coming from inside of the wheel well. There are plisters , bubbling up to the surface. No blisters have broken through so far. The blisters are in the same locations in each wheel well. The only repair according to one sop is replacing the entire sectio at a cost of $2000 per side"

"Right above the passenger side rear wheel well, corrosion is coming through the paint. No corrosion anywhere else on the vehicle. I have seen this on other similar vehicles around town"

"Rusting through on right rear quarter panel. Only place on vehicle"

"The area around the rear windshield is rusting badly enough that since I plan to keep the vehicle will need repair or replacement of the rear hatch door"

"Both rear quarter panels rusted at the seam. Rust on underside of hood"

"Radiator developed a leak on the right tank"

"horrible wind noise at highway speeds, can hardly hear cell phone as a passenger"

"Radiator leak. Required replacement"

"had to replace cracked radiator"

"Replaced radiator"

"leaking radiator"

"Recall on Drive Side Air Bag"

"Water leaked into the back roof causing mold to build up in the vehicle"

"I believe the sunroof draining system may be slightly clogged. After receiving serious amounts of rain, I've noticed a musty, mildewy smell inside the vehicle. Unfortunately, I haven't taken the time to correct the problem"

"Sounds like the power steering pump is dying. Squeals, sounds like the pump is struggling"

"Something inside the car has been rattling for a long time. Possibly the air vents"

"When the a/c unit fan is running and we turn a noise like water running into the fan motor or blade"

"tie rods old and needed replacement"

"The weight of my daughter's college gear caused a shield around the rear brakes to come loose. Sounded like the wheel was coming off but wasn't too expensive to fix"

"Standard rattles for a 12 year old vehicle. This has been a fantastic vehicle overall."

"There was a clunking sound whenever we accelerated or braked. It turned out to be a bolt that had rusted and was banging against a cover plate. The fix was simple and cheap."

"I kept hearing a squeaking noise from the right front tire area. I also experienced a weird thumping-like sound when I was reversing and turning at the same time. My mechanic was not able to identify the cause of either issue and ultimately they just resolved on their own."

"the cheap, hard plastic interior pieces squeek and rattle."

"Also the radiator fan was replaced due to bearing wear"

"LOCAL HONDA DEALER, FROM WHICH I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE, CAN NOT LOCATE OR REPAIR CONSTANT SQUEAKS AND RATTLES WHICH HAVE BEEN IN THE CAR SINCE I PURCHASED IT. I HAVE ADDED A TRAILER HITCH, BUT THE NOISES WERE PRESENT PRIOR TO THIS ADDITION. I HAVE"

"Rear gate doesn't shut tight due to loose mechanism that is difficult to adjust and has been that way since the first year of purchase"

"The rattles are in the back hatch door and just started in the 9th year"

"Squeak/clunk when braking from left rear. Dealer has not been able to find source of noise"

"It has always been a loud vehicle -- with windows up at highway speed, I sometimes check to make sure a window is not cracked. Because it is noisy"

"Getting worse with age - bearable, mainly from driver's window"

"All Hondas have wind noise, which gets worse as it ages."

"Car is too noisy!"

"The interior cabin is loud with the road/wind noise"

"Car picks up road noise and wind. The loud noise is Very uncomfortable"

"On-off light not working"

"3rd brake light stopped working at around 100k miles, and it was a wiring/electronic problem, not a dead bulb."

"Battery light was coming on due to weak alternator."

"Headlight on passenger side went bad at least twice in one year. Most likely caused by electric surcharge."

"All exterior lights seem to burn out regularly, headlights and taillights"

"To expensive to troubleshoot, live without passenger seat heat."

"Rarely have occasion to use the passenger seat heater, but when I first did it did not work. Have not had the problem investigated or repaired."

"Drivers side seat heater quit working about 4 years ago. Dealer said only repair option was to replace the seat."

"Drivers seat overheated and burned the insulation/padding"

"Driver map light not working. Have read this is a chronic problem with this vehicle, a wiring defect"

"Overhead light malfunctioned, fixture needed to be replaced"

"ThE map lights were replaced and worked for a while and then quit."

"So many dash lights out. Flying in the dark. Happened early on. No mostly dark."

"Some of the interior lights have gone bad. Because of the cost of replacing them I have not decided if I will have them done or not."

"the front interior light above the rear view mirror ceased to work; bulb replacement made no difference"

"Problems with the interior map light switch, requiring replacement"

"Map light module not working"

"Dome light and reading lights randomly don't work. Dash light burn out frequently"

"one of the map lights will not come on when I open the door. works ok when I push it to turn it on"

"Interior lights no longer go on when door is open and two different mechanics cannot figure out why"

"overhead lights whole assy need replacement"

"Climate control lights not functioning. Cant see without turning on overhead light"

"Alternator overcharged battery and burned out some modules"

"one of the two keys will not lock or unlock the doors. Key problem"

"Replaced battery in both keys. Still didn't work. Had to unlock manually. Did not want to spend to get it fixed with so many miles on it"

"Check engine light repeatedly goes on and dealer can't fix it. Airbags light repeatedly goes on and dealer can't fix it"

"The engine was working. It may have been a lifter. I took precautionary care at 140000 miles"

"cam shaft went bad, causing engine to misfire, blew head gasket, required rebuilding much of engine"

"Oil leaks"

"Engine seized up and resulted in complete failure. Had to replace the engine about 12 month ago. Same issue happened again last week."

"valves had to be replace, head machined gaskets replaced $3000. repair at honda dealer"

"Don't know the exact details due to it being examined by a mechanic at the moment, but was told by Honda that engine was failing due to infrequent oil changes, despite the fact that it is REGULARLY changed at no more than 3,000 miles each time"

"Engine was extremely noisy, like tappets, for almost 10k miles. I saw 2 dealers and 1 independent shop, all told me it was normal. The car has been serviced better than book. 1 dealer adjusted valves, made the noise worse. Finally 1 dealer listened a"

"Engine died while on the highway and needed to be replaced"

"The Pilot couldn’t pass inspection due to dashboard indicators and exhaust readings. It was explained that the gasket was affecting the efficiency of the combustion. Gaskets were replaced and problem seems to be solved"

"Engine skipping. Taken to be fixed for several years. This time I asked a different dealer to do a valve job. Skipping finally stopped. (However, the service manager thought it was not needed since their computer incorrectly had 2 service bulletin"

"Decided to replace the timing belt due to age of car"

"Replaced due to age and mileage"

"Always a big repair but did not replace until auto shop said it needed replacement"

"The orientation of the engine necessitated that the engine be partially removed from the truck to replace the timing belt. The evasive process also prompted the replacement of the coolant pump and gasket. The cost of all of this was quite high"

"No failure - routine timing belt replacement for 100,000 miles"

"engine started to whine, causing major repair"

"Timing Belt fastener started to make noise after 60K service period. Noise got louder and louder. Did not know what it was. Timing Belt replacement was not due till 100K. Had timing belt replaced at 95K miles after master mechanic identified the pr"

"I replaced it as maintenance at the Honda dealer. Be pensive and I think their lack of competency caused other issues"

"Alternator died. Had it replaced with refurbished part"

"Alternator wore out - replaced"

"alternator went out"

"Replaced twice within 30 days"

"Alternator failed; Caused multiple system problems and necessitated battery replacement as well"

"Alternator needed replacement"

"Went bad, replaced with an Advance Auto alterntor for $150 and had a friend put it in for $50"

"Replaced battery bought in 2009"

"3rd battery on this car"

"Interstate battery - 2 years service and dead cell this last month (April 2015) Prorated but only 22.00 credit to new battery"

"Misfire in cylinder 3. They tried everything to fix it, including plugs, wires, compression check, valve adjustment, new software, head gasket and they could NOT fix it."

"All the wires and spark plugs had to be replaced. Cost about$700"

"Sp;ark Plug became loose and caused escape of exhaust gasses, burning plug and coil"

"one of the three rear spark plugs blew, causing damage to the thread/coils in the engine block"

"Spark plugs did not make it to 100,000 miles. Replaced at about 93000 along with the EGR Valve (this caused vehicle to run extremely rough and eventually stalled)"

"Computer timing malfunction"

"Starter failed and vehicle had to be towed"

"Starter quit at 178000 miles. I can live with this"

"Check engine light frequently displays, only to go off by itself within a few days. Service diagnosis is usually inconclusive"

"At idle, engine "clicks" as if valve's need adjustment. Dealer said it would cost about $350 to diagnose the problem and fixing would be additional. I elected to do nothing and see what happens"

"There is a suspension clunk noise for the past 5 years but it doesn't affect performance. Also there is a clicking noise from engine for the past 6 months, again not affecting performance. I have not had the time or inclination to get these diagnosed. I love my Pilot more than any other car I have ever owned!"

"took two trips into dealership to get valve tuning to fix sluggish acceleration"

"Had to replace 3 engine mounts. Expensive!"

"engine mounts were torn or broken and needed to be replaced"

"One of the engine mounts was broken due to wear which caused issues under hard acceleration. Mechanic ended up replacing all the mounts at once"

"High mileage engine started leaking from the valve covers. Dealer says that a boatload of other related services were necessary, that according to the service manual are not related"

"seals"

"I just check the oil level every week and oil. Used engine was installed 4 months ago."

"Small drip. No need to repair"

"when adjusting valves my mechanic failed to replace a small gasket around the screws and oil liked from there on to exhaust also main bearing seal is leaking. only annoyances now but could get worse"

"I had an oil leak coming from valve covers but problem may not be due to car defect. A couple years earlier I had timing belt replaced under maintenance schedule and at the same time I opted to have valve gaskets replaced. The work may not have been done correctly or the replacement valve gaskets failed."

"Oil leak at variable valve timing solenoid. It was Replaced."

"The rear engine to transmission seal failed and had to be replaced. Dealer quoted about $1300, got it done elsewhere for much less"

"Catalytic converter replaced at 160,000 miles."

"Check engine light came on. Dealer charged me to tell me it is catalytic converter. Car drives fine so have not replaced."

"Had to replace converter - no longer providing adequate emissions"

"it burned out"

"Both Catalytic converters were not operating correctly which caused a number of other engine issues. Had to replace both Catalytic converters for ~$2300"

"Failure of a catalytic converter at 90K mile is uinexceptable"

"It has barely passed emissions test. Dealer has recommended replacement of catalytic converter"

"Loud muffler. Deteriorating and needs replacement aprox. $1,200"

"leaking gasket between catalytic and tail pipe"

"Manufacturer recall again."

"Takata air bag recall"

"Second airbag recall."

"Defective takita"

"Takeda recall for both airbags"

"The Catylitic converter must be replaced soon."

"The emission controls were most affected by the gasket problem previously discussed. I was under the impression that at least one sensor was replaced however."

"Could not pass the emission test, no driving problems"

"Fuel cap"

"Check engine light. 1 of 3 O2 sensors needed replacement. $900 repair"

"catalytic converters going out,, can't tell which is out so need to replace all 4"

"DTC P0420: Catalytic inefficiency, Bank 1 (rear)"

"Check engine light came on which was diagnosed to be catalytic converter needing to be replaced"

"The EGR gets clogged and shows and check engine light with an VTS light"

"Fuel cap was replaced"

"Engine light"

"A sensor went bad and had to be replaced, costing $250"

"Because of the difficulty in replacing the rear catalytic converter (did myself), I also replaced the oxygen sensors because they were off the engine. Additional $150 in cost"

"CD player stopped working a year ago. Honda does not have a replacement available. Volume control on steering wheel stopped working 6 months ago. No replacement part available from Honda. Rear passenger door lock just started not locking or unlocking with remote. Drivers side front light assembly just stopped working approximately 200 to replace."

"The CD player started damaging CDs and would not eject them"

"CD player jams. Can't get CDs out"

"Display goes away"

"problem with connectors (plug)"

"Too much road noise. And the CD player does not work."

"Blown/rotted subwoofer despite low bass setting"

"Volume control on steering wheel stopped working 6 months ago. No replacement part available from Honda."

"Car engine started to overheat. Had to replace radiator and water pump"

"Had car into dealer for regular service. Was advised the radiator needed to be replaced for about $850. I asked why and the service advisor reported that the service technician could see evidence of a leak, the fluid level was low and discolored. I elected to do nothing. At home there are no marks on the concrete drive of any leaks from the car other than A/C, It was difficult to examine the radiator for leaks because it is covered by A/C coil in front and double fan assembly in rear with b"

"The Honda Pilot radiator had to be replaced because it was not repairable. What surprised me is the shop I frequent replaced it with a radiator that has a plastic cap. How long will that last in the So. California High Desert area."

"Radiator failed along bottom seam, near hose connection. This is the second radiator change. The first was at about 65,000 miles and that was the top seam. Both Honda parts. This time a NAPA radiator was used. It has lifetime guarantee."

"Radiator leaking. Service shop indicated due to steel radiator connected to hoses by plastic - which they said was "common" with the Pilot. Not a car guy - don't know"

"Radiator leak last summer, had to have radiator replaced, only problem I have ever had with this vehicle"

"At 155,000 miles, the radiator developed a slow leak, and had to be replaced"

"Motor on windpw went out."

"I have replaced both power rear window motors in previous years. This year I had to replace the driver window motor and switch. The part at the dealer was almost $900 just for the switch."

"The motor for the right rear passenger window (middle row) went out"

"All windows had regulator replaced"

"window motor on right rear window stopped working; had to replace it"

"Window Regulators failed allowing the windows to drop on both rear passenger windows"

"leaking boot straightforward fix but not cheap maybe $700"

"Right front - CV Half Shaft assembly replaced"

"A/C was working (could feel cold when I put my hand to vents) but wouldn't blow air; dealer thought it was blower motor; changed that but still not working so old blower motor back in. Dealer said it was a transistor - cost $200 and 4 trips to dealer."

"I just noticed from time to time that the Pilot would slip a little when down-shifting to go up a small incline"