Hyundai Sonata Change Vehicle

“Driver side rear exterior door handle simple came off when attempting to open the door”

“We've had to replace three of the four entry latches on the car. The dealer has covered the cost of this - warranty”

“Both center console latches failed. Repaired under warranty”

“The link between the door handle and the latch broke. Hyundai replaced the door handle at our expense”

“Silver plastic covering driver's inside door handle peeled a few years ago, cutting my hand. It was replaced by dealer at no charge. Now it's peeling again. Visor won't stay up, is being held up by rope”

“Front and rear door handles on the drivers side both broke and had to be repaired”

“Side view mirror knocked off when someone bumped into it - was difficult to have it reinstalled”

“Car locks itself when I have not locked it. Security horn goes off when parked in my garage. Trunk hatch opens when driving (has not opened all the way, but light is on) and i have to stop and close it. Also the trunk lid id very heavy to open”

“Both front power windows motor were replaced by dealer”

“3 electric window motors have failed due to plastic gear teeth being striped or sheered off”

“The window switches on the driver's door control panel for the driver's window and for the left rear passenger window seem as if the springs in the toggle switches have become disconnected. The unit has a very flimsy feel to it”

“Power Window mechanical failure”

“Both front window motors have to be replaced”

“Door handle fell off”

“Needed cleaning”

“gas leak at injection rail”

“All of the oxygen sensors went bad but they were rusted in so they couldn't be removed. We were told to take out the catalytic converter to replace them but it is rusted in also! All of this cheap metal needs to be cut out with a torch!”

“it just failed one day and car came to a complete stop”

“Dealer replace mass air flow sensor 14 days before warranty expired”

“check engine light on. Code reader sometimes also show the "O2 sensor" problem”

“dealer said these sensors were part of the problem”

“$800 charcoal filter required replacement”

“check engine light comes on. sensor needs replacing”

“Check engine light came on. Took the car to Hyundai dealership. Fuel vent failed. About $200 to have it replaced”

“both o2 sensors on one catalytic convertor were replaced”

“The check engine light came on over 1 year ago. Dealer found nothing wrong. Came on again. Found nothing wrong. Came on a third time , new mechanic found problem right away”

“Camshaft and crankshaft sensors went bad May 2017”

“Computer part had to be replaced”

“Car felt like losing power. Grayson Hyundai said bad computer. Replaced. Still losing power. Express Oil Change mechanic found left rear brake hanging up. Fixed brakes. Requested Grayson Hyundai to reinstall old computer. Refused saying old comp”

“The remote starting system broke twice, 2 different companies. Drained battery completely”

“Replace oxygen sensor”

“The Engine control module (ECM) needed replacement. Approximately at 225,000 miles”

“Oil leaks from the valve cover onto the alternator & shorted out the alternator. I had it replaced, and the mechanic put extra thick gasket sealant to stop the leak. It happened again. Its a design flaw by Hyundai”

“Oil leaks spilled over in engine $$$$$ repair”

“SLOW LEAK UNDER CAR”

“Valve covers gaskets replaced, front and back. Under warrany”

“Timing Cover seal was broken, oil leaking”

“Hyundai dealer mechanic advised in Feb. 2017 at oil change(mileage 103,4460) that vehicle has incipient timing cover leak and oil pan leak. Hyundai dealer mechanic advised in April 2017 at oil change (mileage 108,527) that valve cover tube seals are leaking”

“same”

“Downshift is hard when cold”

“Downshift at 20 mph felt like brakes grabbing. Dealer reset the computer...no more problems”

“There was a "technical service bulletin" and the dealership fixed it for free”

“On cold mornings especially; before car is warmed up, it would jerk during downshift slowing or coming to a stop”

“They initially used software upgrades to eliminate the rough shifting then eventually replaced the knuckle and some other parts on the transmission. problem would go away for a while but as soon as the cold weather came it started up again. This went on for a number of years until the warranty ended. They never did fix the issue once and for all and since the warranty has expired they are suspecting the transmission will need to be rebuilt or replaced. I would have to pay for it. Why didn't”

“There was a "technical service bulletin" and the dealership fixed it for free”

“was grabbing and jerking and they had to call Hyundai even though I took it to the dealer to have the computer adjusted.. It started again 8 months later but they couldn't find the issue and so changed the fluid which seemed to help as of now”

“Known problem. When cold , downshift from 2 to 1 is hard bang shift. hyundai tried to reprogram and flush ; help regular shifting but not cold downshift. Fluid was flushed @ 40k before. Car is tough on fluid almost black every 30-40K”

“hard downshift in to 1st gear when engine is cold, any temperature transmission reprogramming necessary to fix problem”

“dealer had to reprogram setting on tranny 3 times all together within the past year”

“The doors that channel air to the heat or AC were stuck so no heat came through. Had to replace the whole assembly”

“During the winter the drivers side air vent blew hot air passenger side blew cold air..... Bad air door actuator control”

“Blowing cold on drivers side in winter”

“Needed replacement of Thermostat housing and radiator hoses”

“when i got it from the dealer is was broken, didnt know until i had to use it”

“Heat was delivered only to the passenger's side of the cabin, not the driver's side”

“System blows heat on driver side, but not on passenger side”

“heater will not totally shut off, always blows warm air”

“Blower motor went bad. Replaced it”

“Replaced AC condensing unit”

“replacement of failed battery”

“This vehicle needs new battery every 2-3 years”

“Starter motor at 5 years needed to be replaced...yes right after the warranty was over. Hyundai did cover it”

“After driving the vehicle and then turning the engine off, sometimes the car will not start. Nothing happens when you turn the key. If you wait between 5 and 30 minutes, the car will start again. Incredibly frustrating”

“Car key would get stuck and sometimes was very difficult to turn the car on. I replaced the ignition switch”

“Ignitors (spark plugs) had to be replaced”

“Starter quit working repair was quoted at $620. We purchased an extended warranty and it cost us $100”

“cold not start. had to replace it”

“Engine starter was replaced by dealer”

“Both headlights just died just like that and i had to use high beam until it was fixed. Hyundai dealers charged total 120$ for the fix. which seems a lot of just headlight”

“needed to replace one”

“We have had to replace the headlights frequently”

“Many of the accessory lights had to be replaced”

“Left front marker light does not work even after replacing the bulb twice”

“Key wouldn't turn in lock, so couldn't start car. Had to be towed twice to a dealer while traveling. Several people tried to start car (self, husband, tow person) but couldn't turn key. We were towed to a dealer each time,and by then, the car star”

“tire pressure monitor light comes on every two months”

“The TPM light comes on and off”

“I replaced all on tire sensors once now need replacement again”

“Several squeaks , rattles ,wind noise and fogging on right front passenger window when raining and after activating defogger”

“had the issue since new, squeaking rattling in dash. Several dealer trips under warranty, never fixed. Out of warranty I discovered that the glove box doesn't close snugly - hard plastic to plastic pin latches, poor engineering. I coated them with some rubber electrical insulating goop. No more rattles”

“Rattle when starting up and engine is cold. Dealer unable to locate. Does not seem to affect performance”

“Wind and road noise are unacceptable. Requires increasing the volume of speech and audio. Stripping is loose and insufficient”

“The road noise is BAD! Because of this I would not recommend purchasing this car”

“Humming noise but car still ran great”

“Excessive wear”

“The rear disc and parking break systems, (calibres) , bearings and bushings are in need of constent monitoring, matainence, repair and replacement over the past 2 years to the tune of more than $ 5,000 .00 ! The worst in any vehicle I have ever own”

“Rear passenger side wheel bearing had breakage. Replaced at dealership. $700 Took two days to get the part”

“Upper control arm was bent and required replacement. Made a loud squeaking noise while driving”

“Intermittent surging problem with engine. Car would also lose power suddenly”

“Switch on console electrical contacts became corroded and needed a blade to scrape off the corrosion to make work again. This was not documented in any repair manual and all others suggested replacing the entire console control unit which would cost a lot of money compared to the contacts but if a better, low voltage switch had been used this would never have been a problem”

“Started to jerk when shifting. Dealer said I needed a new transmission, which was covered under factory warranty. They gave me a loaner car while repairs were made”

“Slave cylinder gave out, which required an entire clutch replacement”

“Dealer said chain had to be replaced. After repairs, the vehicle began consuming oil, they said gasket was leaking and I had to pay again for them to reseal, engine still loosing oil but no leak evident, suspect cylinder seals were damaged and oil is leaking into the chamber. Their work also caused the exhaust system to break at the manifold and backfire which ended up having to replace the whole exhaust system including the converter. The dealer had the car from November to February which ca”