Mazda 3

"Curbside wheel damage due to my aging reflexes"

"Front control arms were both replaced. Substantial cost."

"There were these bushings that were wearing out and would cause some steering problems if not replaced and it is not easy job so it was the most expensive repair on the car to date."

"The suspension bushings fail after about 75k miles. Making for a harsh and noisy ride. The repair estimate was $1300.00"

"front anti-rollbar clunk"

"The suspension started clunking. The dealer said that the problem was a front lower control arm."

"There are rubber bushings in the steering system that have become worn over time and need to be replaced."

"Slight knocking in front suspension driving over bumpy surfaces, both sides. Dealer advised replacing struts. Problem was resolved."

"Suspension started making a clunking noise which got worse over approx 2 weeks. Our local repair shop told us one of the struts had broken internally. He replaced both front struts and realigned the wheels."

"Left rear damper top casting mounted with two bolts to the shock tower bracket. The casting cracked at both bolts, disconnecting the top of the damper. Still possible to drive the car, but slowly to ensure the damper doesn't damage shock tower stamping. This same failing has happened twice previously, once in each side."

"Mechanic advised that suspension rattled on test drive. Advised a shock was leaking, advised all shocks should be replaced. Also the struts needed replacing so also the strut mounts. Mechanic advised that usually this service would have been done at 120,000 klm mark. Mechanics opinion was car had at least another 5 years of life. It was expensive but the suspension lasted twice as long than expected before components needed servicing. After servicing I noticed the suspension did not rattle going over obstacles like railway lines, also the steering wheel had ceased vibrating when braking."

"Strut replacement due to leak"

"Right front strut failed. Clunking noise when I hit bumps. Repaired them myself"

"Front struts started leaking oil"

"Both front struts had to be replaced and the rear shocks"

"Need to be replaced per Mazda Dealer"

"normal wear and tear/ for struts/brakes. defective O ring /design in crank case caused leak into spark plug. end result replacement of catalytic converter"

"replaced front struts and rear shocks - one rear shock broke off mount, requiring large extra cost for repair"

"My right rear shock was found to be leaking. I replaced both rear shocks"

"replaced front struts and rear shocks. one side was damaged - may have been due to a pothole or hitting a curb"

"Rear Shock Absorbers leaked"

"Shocks became detached on one wheel"

"had to replace worn out"

"rear strut failed at 24,00 miles"

"I was told by a mechanic that the shocks/struts need to be replaced. I have not had this service done because of the cost"

"I've had several problems with the shocks over the years, especilly within the last year and the previous one"

"blown shock/strut"

"have had to replace because they can't stand up to the road conditions in the northeast (potholes, etc)"

"Right front strut leaked and lost all fluid. Although a simple fix, it was costly and since both shocks have also failed on the rear, I would rate the suspension of the car not reliable"

"Shock on drivers side rear broke at the hinge joint caused by a severe jolt when hitting a pot hole. Required replacement of both rear shocks."

"went over pothole and rear strut broke off"

"1. Lower Control arm failure drivers side. 2. Replace shocks"

"Right rear strut leaked fluid all in the garage - replaced all 4"

"shock tower broke"

"The rear strut mount detached from the car. This is the third time this has happened. The previous time was 19 months ago when both rear struts fully and catastrophically detached at the same time; which was a repeat of 21 months before that. The first of the 3 happened when the car was 6.5 years old. The dealership is unable to explain why I have had three failures 21 and 19 months apart. The first two the car was immediately undrivable. the third it could be driven very slowly the less t"

"Rear shock mount broke, causing loud racket. Replaced rear shocks and mounts"

"The shocks or struts went bad on the front and rear. I will have to replace each. The went bad fairly quickly or rather sooner than I thought they should"

"Heard clunking sounds while driving."

"Something in the right rear suspension became loose and the dealer fixed it"

"Both front and rear suspension components had to be replaced due to corrosion. One component broke as I was driving."

"The vibration was due to rotors gone bad, which hadd been replaced by PepBoys just 24 months earlier and were waranteed in full"

"Heavy steering wheel vibration above 55mph. Oscillations come and go shaking the steering wheel violently 1 inch clockwise/counterclockwise. Dealership checked and balanced everything. Issue still present until recently. Unknown why it stopped"

"This is the second time I've had repairs around steering wheel virbrations. Both times it got so bad that I was told by Mazda that it was unsafe to drive the car. Costly repair both times"

"none of the windows operate, door shows open at times (all shut). severe steering wheel shake, new tires,balance, alignment, and tie rods done, did not resolve it. Mazda mechanics are lazy"

"Worn tie rods and shocks resulted in uneven tire wear. Needed to replace front suspension and buy new tires"

"Normal wear and tear vehicle is 12 years old and tie rod was getting sloppy picked up on a maintenance inspection by the dealer."

"Tire wear would suffer if these bushings were not replaced and got them in time to make the tire wear not the problem it seems to be."

"have read that this brand and model of tires has this problem - could have also been due to struts and shocks that needed to be replaced"

"A set of tires lasts only 12,000 miles. Several suspension components have been replaced (warranty) through the years. Now that the car is out of warranty, it is not cost-beneficial to drive it"

"our main issue since purchasing the car used has been the wheels. they wear unevenly and we've replaced the tires several times"

"Wheel weights disappeared, they need to be replaced and the tires rebalanced"

"A/C compressor died -replaced"

"The compressor died rendering the AC inoperable."

"The A/C was okay when driving on the highway, but it faltered once on city streets. Took the car to the mechanic a few times in the summer of 2019 before it was correctly diagnosed and repaired by replacing the compressor."

"A/C compressor went out"

"At approx: 88,000 miles the A/C stopped working. The cause was a seized up AC compressor. When it was replaced, the evaporator was also replaced and the system recharged with freon"

"Air conditioning stopped working 6/14. Need compressor, and condenser"

"My Mazda is now on its third A/C compressor, and this one sounds like it's on its way out, too"

"I have the compressor replaced 3 x in the last 18 months. Perhaps it is because they used after market parts"

"The AC compressor failed twice. Both times the car was parked and I was using the remote start feature to keep my dog cool while I ran as short grocery errand"

"AC quit working"

"I had the compressor go out 2 in 13 months"

"A/C blows hot air. Diagnosed with a mechanic, it is verifiably the compressor. High cost to replace, difficult to DIY even if purchasing parts"

"Complete compressor failure"

"Compressor failed and had to be replaced"

"The air conditioning system operates for a short time then shuts down."

"The a/c stopped working"

"The air conditioning in the Mazda 3 was never very very efficient. I am not sure given the age of the vehicle if it is wise to replace it"

"A/C stopped working"

"Compressor failed, not worth fixing or replacing, now without AC,"

"A/C Compressor went out at around 85,000 miles, is upwards of $1500 to fix"

"A/C stopped functioning when car was no longer under warranty. Had the compressor repaired (replaced?) by independent local repair garage of high repute and high expertise. Cost us about $1,000-plus. We were satisfied with the repair"

"A/C stopped working. Mechanic told us it was the compressor. It has not been repaired or replaced yet"

"I have had to replace the A/C compressor in my Mazda 3 twice; in 2014 and again in 2018. The cost of this repair was more than $800 the first time and close to $1,000 the second time. This, however, is the only major issue I have had with this car in the 12 years that I’ve owned it."

"Compressor failed, was able to extend the life for a few years but eventually had to replace."

"Stopped functioning, too expensive to repair on an old car."

"Temperaturee / fan speed control. replaced sensor to repair"

"The A/C is erratic at times, and sometimes stops blowing cold air when it is needed the most. We usually find that turning off the A/C for several minutes will solve the problem."

"AC just stopped working. Condenser needed to be replaced"

"Hole due to rock"

"My Mazda is now on its third alternator. The second one only lasted 18,233 miles and three years"

"See previous answer"

"It is a serious leak and after talking with mechanics very difficult to troubleshoot in Mazda 3 models. I chose not to I have it fixed and drive it only on short trips"

"Two of the AC hoses had to be replaced because they started leaking. Repairs cost $650 for something that should last the life of the engine"

"EGR valve stuck causing check engine light. New EGR valve, gasket and labor fixed problem. Vehicle had 26788 miles & repair cost $330.00"

"check engine light came on. egr needed replacing. garage ordered wrong size part. took another day for correct part to be installed"

"The CHECK ENGINE light came on. The shop replaced the fuel purge valve. I assume that's part of the emission control system, but I'm not sure."

"Filler tube sensor kicking on engine light. Cleaned canister element, ok for a while. Now sensor kicks on regularly. New fuel cap, not fixed. Need to drop whole rear end to replace sensor and canister...not going to until inspection next year. VERY labor-intensive fix for 50 dollar part. Estimate at $800."

"I had to repair or replace a number of these devices to pass the state pollution inspection."

"Oxygen sensor malfunction and heat sensor malfunction. other sensor malfunctions"

"Check engine light was on for many months. Parts had to be replaced, which resulted in an expensive repair bill"

"Canister part of fuel tank venting system turning on engine light. Replacement requires total drop of rear end of car"

"Not detrimental for the car functioning. Replaced to make the check engine light turn off"

"The evap system started sending codes saying there was a leak. A certified technician fixed the problem."

"Needed a new throttle body to turn off warning light to pass smog test"

"The check engine light had gone off and on a couple of time over approx. 2-3 weeks and I had an appt. to take it to the auto shop. The light had been on 4 days. After refueling, there was a faint smell of gas inside the vehicle as I drove home. After parking in the garage about 20 minutes, I checked the car and there was a significant puddle of fuel on the garage floor. After taking it to the auto shop, the computer reading showed a small evap leak, and they found the plastic seal on the top of the fuel pump had a significant crack. They also recommended replacing the actual fuel pump as it was discolored due to the age of the vehicle and the harsh heat in Arizona. This was #4 of 5 repairs/services performed on the vehicle in the matter of 2 months."

"High Noise"

"Check engine light, code P2404, came on twice within a 4-month timeframe. The 'problem' is typically connected with the evap emission leak detection pump and/or the sensors connected to this system. In both cases the dealer could not identify a 'root cause' for the check engine light."

"O2 sensor should not have gone bad and is too expensive to replace"

"Bypass valve replaced. Was causing hard starts after fueling. Twice car flooded and was towed to garage. Part is Mada only. Paid way too much for a small plastic valve with electronics on it"

"Engine light came . I had to replace 5 sensors for about $800"

"Sensor for the fumes recycling system"

"O2 sensor fault keeps sending incorrect signal to control module which causes warning light and engine surge"

"I had a series of failures that resulted in engine warning lights and repairs to replace sensors. During a long distance drive the fuel system caused stalling and i was barely able to continue to keep the car going."

"Oxygen sensor malfunction. Cleaning has repaired it at the moment. I didn't see any place to respond to this. the sear belt retractor on the driver side doesnt retract well. I had the same problem with the 1998 Mazda I had before"

"The evaporative leak detection pump is no longer working. Car will not pass emissions until I replace it, but the detector is not in an easily accessible location."