Toyota Corolla Change Vehicle

“Engine light on & code indicates catalytic converter problem. Recently replaced intake gasket. Added a fuel/catalytic converter product & using high test fuel”

“It had to be replaced as part of the pipes my previous vehicle I had 14 years really almost 15 and never had a pipe or muffler or converter issue ever so I know that a better system can be built and installed even if it was an accident”

“A problem with the canister lights up the check engine light in the dash”

“Engine light came on around 160000km, found catalytic converter & oxygen sensors needed replacing”

“Developed exhaust leak. Require new converter”

“Whenever I hit the gas pedal, my car sounds pretty loud. It sounds like the engine, but mechanic said it was an exhaust leak. Whenever running the fan in my car with outside air, I can smell the exhaust”

“stainless steel exhaust pipe was warranty-replaced 90,000 miles ago... this stainless steel doesn't last the life of the car”

“Bad intake manifold gasket”

“Became very noisy. Dealer wanted to replace entire exhaust system for $1500. Had just the exhaust manifold replaced for about $300 at Meineke”

“heat shield was wired in place so it would stop rattling”

“The screw holding the heat shield rusted out resulting in the shield rattling& dropping down”

“This happens about every three years, but the parts were installed by The Mufflerman”

“The exhaust pipe cracked and became disconnected. It had to be replaced up to the catalytic converter which was over $2000”

“Leak”

“The muffler pipe rusted through (first time) so there were holes in the pipe. Made the car sound VERY loud. The car was located in MA (road salt) for its first 8 years”

“I NEEDED NEW MUFFLER AND PIPE”

“The exhaust system parts were from The Mufflerman”

“Rust”

“Hole in pipe caused complete replacement of integrated unit consisting of muffler, catalytic converter and all pipes front to back (costing $2200)”

“Exhaust pipe has been replaced twice,”

“Front exhaust pipe was broken (rotted out at the flange) and had to be replaced. This was the first major repair in 9 years for $1300. I went to a TOYOTA dealer for repair”

“flange rusted off”

“SEE PREVOIUS”

“Rusted through”

“Non Toyota parts involved”

“The catalytic converter broke off from the exhaust pipe due to rust and needed to be replaced”

“Replaced the catalytic converter...very expensive part/labor!”

“Check engine light could not be extinguished”

“The evap-canister on the car failed, in addition to a known problem with the computer chip which has resulted in the car needing a new CPU to pass emissions”

“Minor problem, easily fixed”

“Failed emission testing so I purchesed a new gas cap and all was fine”

“Fuel cap gave false engine sign on the dashboard. Dealership wanted to change the catalytic convertor (P0456 code) and charge big buck for that; however, this is not Toyota fault. Otherwise, Corolla is very a reliable car, although not very exciting”

“I had a recall on the Airbag which was replace I have had to replace the emissions once about 7years ago and I need indicates I mgiht have to replace again”

“heard a funny chugging noise while driving for months and no one, not even the dealer could tell me what it was. Was finally told it was the fuel pump and it was fixed”

“A squirrel ate through the fuel pump”

“While driving the car started to go slower and slower until it stopped and the engine stopped running”

“The fuel pump required replacement. Fortunately our mechanic was able to separate the pump from the rest of the fuel level sender unit, saving us significant parts cost”

“fuel pump failed. Check engine light showing code for weak fuel, air mix”

“After the "check engine" indicator came on, the problem was diagnosed as "presence of vapor gases, defective seal(?)". The repair cost almost $1,000, but it was "necessary" as the check engine light would stay on otherwise and other problems would no”

“Check engine light illuminated due to a leak in the intake manifold. Needed to have the intake manifold gasket replaced (an $8 part) but due to the complexity the repair cost $350”

“the sensor code popped after came out of a carwash”

“Emissions light is always on. Shop will repair either sensor or an emission part, within 30 days, light comes on again. Problem since we bought car at 32000 miles, and even using different mechanic shops”

“It cost me $1,200 to change the sensor which caused an annoying light to be on constantly”

“Sensors, including fuel and oxygen mix malfunctioned when we were visiting in Maryland. Mostly, it was because of the cold weather, but it cost over $1000 to repair”

“Number two fuel injector monitor chip was replaced. The injector was too lean”

“normal replacement- no real issue”

“my clutch had a good life. no complaints about having to replace it at 165k”

“The clutch and the flywheel both had to be replaced due to heavy slipping and wear. This was considered normal for 215,000 miles. Cost about $2,300 for parts and labor with lifetime warranty”

“The clutch was worn out”

“Finally replaced the clutch after 235000 miles!”

“Popped error code a couple times while on the highway”

“could not pass emissions test. took it to 3 different mechanics. They all said I need a rebuilt transmission. Have been driving with engine light on for over 3 months”

“The trans was automatic and it had a failure when going to overdive”

“OBD code 741 (transmission torque converter solenoid) prevented vehicle from passing emissions test. Mechanic says transmission must be rebuilt”

“one day the transmission quit”

“wore out”

“Car had more than 200K hard miles on it, so I don't see the need for a transmission re-build as all that unusual”

“I was a little disappointed that I had to replace the transmission at 100,000 miles. Wear and tear is understandable but 2500$ cost was equal to the blue book value of the car. Not quite ready for a second new one”

“The clock light only works occasionally. It is digital”

“Clock rarely lights up giving the time”

“Clock number brightness faded until completely dark”

“tachometer provides incorrect reading at start up for 1 - 2 minutes”

“Had problems”

“Headlight covers are plastic and turn yellow, cloudy, dull. We have never had to polish headlight covers on a car and have done this one twice and it needs it again. Makes seeing at night to drive difficult and dangerous”

“Two headlight low beam lights burned out over the year”

“rear light bulb burned out”

“The check engine light has been on for over 3 yrs, along with the VSC warning light. The Toyota dealer cannot determine the cause and feels that the only way to get rid of the lights is to replace the transmission. But even that is an educated guess”

“Windshield wipers do not work at intermittent setting”

“Remote Engine starter has stopped working. Haven't been able to fix, even after trips to dealer. Does make opening doors (and loading car) difficult”

“The check engine light kept coming on. The mechanic replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor a few times, first with replacement parts then with OEM. But the fix never held. The problem stopped recurring when the weather got and stayed warmer. I understand via the Web that this is not uncommon in 2005 Toyota Corolla's but that Toyota will not acknowledge a problem with the ECM”

“If i would not have gone th?any after i heard a noise, il would have been much more expensive”

“had serpentine belt replaced the year before. developed crack in engine mount which then caused wear on serpentine belt...engine mount repaired, but also had to replace serpentine belt again”

“Gasket which was very expensive to replace”

“seal for the timing chain cover leaked some”

“leaky valve cover gasket”

“Repairs done: Replaced Front Crank Seal”

“On long interstate trips at higher speeds (70+ mph), there have been intermittent issues with significant oil loss (leaks or burning). This oil usage was as high as one quart every 400 - 500 miles. This has occurred on at least two occasions. The Corolla has been driven almost exclusively in town for the past 8000 miles with no oil loss. I have replaced the PCV valve, oil cap, and valve cover gasket; although there was no obvious indication of any external leaks”

“Oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket were leaking”

“Oil pan and valve cover gasket leaks”

“cooling line from transmission to radiator rusted out”

“Both transmission cooling lines developed leaks, which, if I hadn't noticed the drips, would have easily resulted in transmission failure and replacement”

“Aamco technician had to guess whether replacing a transaxle would stop the leak or not; leak has stopped but did it really need the axle replaced???”

“OBD code 741 caused emission test failure”

“It caused check engine light to come on, which prevents vehicle from passing emissions test. It was the torque converter solenoid forcing us to have the transmission rebuilt. Then a year later, the trans started to leak and had to have it repaired”

“Check engine light came on. Solenoid not working, replaced but still not driving well when slowing down”

“Remove and replaced the bushing that connects the automatic cable linkageto the gear shift. This corrected the problem where the gears would not engage”

“Comressor is shot”

“AC no longer working. Heater works. Have not had this repaired to find out precisely what is wrong”

“At about 143k miles the AC stopped working and the fan was blowing only outside air. The mechanic tested the system and said it was the condenser, which we replaced at a total cost of $580. But it still isn't working well, so we have to take it back”

“There was a leak and the only way to repair it was to pull the dash. Cost of over $3300”

“had a leak that occurred over a long period of time, replaced freon and is working fine now”

“Heat stopped working entirely. Replaced thermostat, but heat continued to function quite sub-par. Had techs bleed system completely and that seems to have solved the problem”

“Replaced sway bar link both sides”

“was driving in traffic and suddenly there was a crash and car would not move”

“Rear wheel bearing was failing. Had it replaced”

“Worn out”

“The pump was leaking. The dealer said that it needed to be replaced”

“Trunk was getting moldy and found that the rear spoiler was leaking. Upon checking, there is rust around one of the holes into which the spoiler is attached. Also passenger door has leaked when rain hits directly since day 1”

“driver window came off track and would not go down”

“power window separates from internal lift mechanism due to broken attachment pieces which are replaceable parts, but are not sold without buying whole window”

“Drain in the sunroof plugged causing a water leak and rust to the roof body”

“14-month old battery was killed by the faulty ECM”

“Exide Battery was replaced after only 2 years and 20,000 miles. I think that is too soon”

“it quit working”

“Multiple enginge oil seals began leaking at around 98000 miles. Air intake gasket also failed causing minor induction problems during cold weather”

“Timing Belt needs to be replaced. The car has a slow leak, but I haven't replaced it yet. Cost of repair is $1,300.00 and I am just waiting to have it fixed until the leak gets larger. Toyota has indicated this is a problem on this car at 125,000 mi”

“A part called clutch compressor, was defective since around 120,000 miles approximately, but was replaced at 133,964 miles with the serpentine belt and tensioner, a full brake job, including pads, shoes, cylinders, turning rotors and drums, all 4 engine insulators, a front fender liner, which in parts was $1,033.07 for parts only without taxes at one the main local Toyota dealers, called Braulio Agosto Toyota. No complaints even today about this most expensive repair, but if the clutch compresso”

“solenoid failure locking drive”

“digital clock goes blank”