Toyota Corolla Change Vehicle

"The right front caliper seized, causing the brake to lock up and ruined a rotor and a set of brake pads. Had to get the caliper, pads and rotors replaced"

"both front calipers rusted closed and prematurely wore all the break pads out. It was caused by a rust ring that didn't allow the brakes to retract into the non-braked position"

"Just wear"

"This is my second set of calipers in 3 years. My mechanic can find no reason for the excess wear on them"

"Driver side caliper stick causing the wheel to get hot and smoke. The car ran like you had a flat tire"

"took to my trusted mechanic expecting routine brake job on front brakes. surprised that back brakes needed replacing also. Mechanic took me to car to show me, using calipers to show me actual wear and condition of brakes"

"started making noise"

"pads"

"Brakes started screeching"

"vehicle needed front brake pads"

"roters need to be polished to eliminate wobbing"

"Replacement of drums and drum brake shoes"

"Shaking brake pedal"

"Had to have front brakes replaced because of the caliper failure"

"1st time brakes needed changing"

"Rear brakes and drums-hardware-hydraulic flush. Also,in March 2019 the starter went."

"stopped working - caused an inspection failure"

"Same as with the 2008 Camry"

"the front disc brakes needed to be changed. rear were fine"

"Brakes replaced then 4 mo lamer had to have pads replaced"

"rear brakes are being replaced because of rusting"

"I have not yet had a mechanic check it out so I don't know any details about the issue."

"Brakes were becoming weak on long road trip; needed to replace front brake pads and rotor"

"Irregular wear to pads due to rotors surface; New pads and re-surface rotors fixed it: Adjusted and clean rear brakes..Approx 300.00"

"Front rotors had to be replaced after 250,000 miles. Probably normal wear and tear"

"Had brake job at CA tire one year previous and they used inferior rotors. They warped and I had major shimmey. Went to my local garage and had them replaced and all is ok now"

"normal wear and tear for a car with 265000 miles on it"

"Rotors needed to be replace with the calipers"

"Rotors warped----replaced"

"brakes squeaked every time I applied them"

"Shortly after buying the car used , end of 2015, we experienced rhythmic rubbing noise from the rear drum brakes when they are warmed up. We've had both independent and dealer service investigate; both put lubricant on parts but said their is no safety issue. The brakes have never not felt in any way "wavering" but the squealing noise is irritating. In the next annual inspection I'll replace all rear brakes; I suspect previous owners allowed inferior aftermarket parts to be installed"

"wheel cylinder broke"

"The catalytic converter broke off from the exhaust pipe due to rust and needed to be replaced"

"Replaced the catalytic converter...very expensive part/labor!"

"Check engine light could not be extinguished"

"The evap-canister on the car failed, in addition to a known problem with the computer chip which has resulted in the car needing a new CPU to pass emissions"

"Minor problem, easily fixed"

"evaporator leak costing 900 to repair"

"Error code for emissions system. 900 repair and still not fixed."

"Failed emission testing so I purchesed a new gas cap and all was fine"

"Fuel cap gave false engine sign on the dashboard. Dealership wanted to change the catalytic convertor (P0456 code) and charge big buck for that; however, this is not Toyota fault. Otherwise, Corolla is very a reliable car, although not very exciting"

"I had a recall on the Airbag which was replace I have had to replace the emissions once about 7years ago and I need indicates I mgiht have to replace again"

"paid for troubleshooting and was told needed catalytic converter would have been very costly repair took it to toyota dealership they replaced gas cap,solved the problem"

"The check engine light came on and I took the car to a mechanic. After an exhaustive check using computer diagnostics, they determined the only problem was the fuel cap which they replaced. With all of the testing, the total cost was an outrageous $155, just to replace a simple plastic cap."

"Fuel cap never fit properly; this resulted in the check engine light appearing until replaced."

"heard a funny chugging noise while driving for months and no one, not even the dealer could tell me what it was. Was finally told it was the fuel pump and it was fixed"

"A squirrel ate through the fuel pump"

"While driving the car started to go slower and slower until it stopped and the engine stopped running"

"The fuel pump required replacement. Fortunately our mechanic was able to separate the pump from the rest of the fuel level sender unit, saving us significant parts cost"

"fuel pump failed. Check engine light showing code for weak fuel, air mix"

"After the "check engine" indicator came on, the problem was diagnosed as "presence of vapor gases, defective seal(?)". The repair cost almost $1,000, but it was "necessary" as the check engine light would stay on otherwise and other problems would no"

"Check engine light illuminated due to a leak in the intake manifold. Needed to have the intake manifold gasket replaced (an $8 part) but due to the complexity the repair cost $350"

"the sensor code popped after came out of a carwash"

"Emissions light is always on. Shop will repair either sensor or an emission part, within 30 days, light comes on again. Problem since we bought car at 32000 miles, and even using different mechanic shops"

"It cost me $1,200 to change the sensor which caused an annoying light to be on constantly"

"Sensors, including fuel and oxygen mix malfunctioned when we were visiting in Maryland. Mostly, it was because of the cold weather, but it cost over $1000 to repair"

"Number two fuel injector monitor chip was replaced. The injector was too lean"

"Engine light is on, checked the code it is oxygen sensor, maybe someday I fix it but for now, it is ok"

"2nd sensor replaced"

"During very cold weather, an engine light comes on the cide that indicates the engine fuel syetem is too lean and tend to run roughly when the car is stopped for a traffic light, etc. I live in the south and there are very few days below freezing. When warm weather returns, the light is reset and stays off till the next winter."

"normal replacement- no real issue"

"my clutch had a good life. no complaints about having to replace it at 165k"

"The clutch and the flywheel both had to be replaced due to heavy slipping and wear. This was considered normal for 215,000 miles. Cost about $2,300 for parts and labor with lifetime warranty"

"The clutch was worn out"

"Finally replaced the clutch after 235000 miles!"

"I have noticed the clutch was slipping for approximately the past 6 months, which is not surprising given the mileage on the vehicle. I finally made the decision to replace it."

"Clutch wore out. Was slipping and was replaced."

"Clutch cable broke. Since car had 95000 miles on it, I had the clutch replaced. Car also needed a new flywheel. I consider replacing the clutch at about 100,000 miles to be routine."

"`mpg declined and engine roared with our power to run the car."

"the original cluck was slipping severely from wear and tear and I had it replaced."

"Popped error code a couple times while on the highway"

"could not pass emissions test. took it to 3 different mechanics. They all said I need a rebuilt transmission. Have been driving with engine light on for over 3 months"

"The trans was automatic and it had a failure when going to overdive"

"OBD code 741 (transmission torque converter solenoid) prevented vehicle from passing emissions test. Mechanic says transmission must be rebuilt"

"one day the transmission quit"

"wore out"

"Car had more than 200K hard miles on it, so I don't see the need for a transmission re-build as all that unusual"

"I was a little disappointed that I had to replace the transmission at 100,000 miles. Wear and tear is understandable but 2500$ cost was equal to the blue book value of the car. Not quite ready for a second new one"

"It failed after four months, but, was covered by a warranty."

"ECM failed combined with issues with a bad solenoid which killed the battery"

"The check engine light kept coming on. The mechanic replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor a few times, first with replacement parts then with OEM. But the fix never held. The problem stopped recurring when the weather got and stayed warmer. I understand via the Web that this is not uncommon in 2005 Toyota Corolla's but that Toyota will not acknowledge a problem with the ECM"

"Had to replace my idle control valve since the car would turn off when decelerating and putting it in neutral."

"If i would not have gone th?any after i heard a noise, il would have been much more expensive"

"Rough idling cause not diagnosed but most likely motor mounts or transmission (is not rough in neutral)"

"had serpentine belt replaced the year before. developed crack in engine mount which then caused wear on serpentine belt...engine mount repaired, but also had to replace serpentine belt again"

"Gasket which was very expensive to replace"

"seal for the timing chain cover leaked some"

"leaky valve cover gasket"

"Repairs done: Replaced Front Crank Seal"

"On long interstate trips at higher speeds (70+ mph), there have been intermittent issues with significant oil loss (leaks or burning). This oil usage was as high as one quart every 400 - 500 miles. This has occurred on at least two occasions. The Corolla has been driven almost exclusively in town for the past 8000 miles with no oil loss. I have replaced the PCV valve, oil cap, and valve cover gasket; although there was no obvious indication of any external leaks"

"Oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket were leaking"

"Oil pan and valve cover gasket leaks"

"I have a slow leak from the lower engine seal"

"the engine seal was gone. Mechanic re-sealed using the seal from dealer"

"uses oil and leaks"

"Crankcase leak, $500 repair."

"The clock light only works occasionally. It is digital"

"Clock rarely lights up giving the time"

"Clock number brightness faded until completely dark"

"Display went out."

"rear light bulb burned out"

"tachometer provides incorrect reading at start up for 1 - 2 minutes"

"Had problems"

"Headlight covers are plastic and turn yellow, cloudy, dull. We have never had to polish headlight covers on a car and have done this one twice and it needs it again. Makes seeing at night to drive difficult and dangerous"

"Two headlight low beam lights burned out over the year"

"Having the high beam headlight short out. After 3 times they got it fixed"

"the dash lights on the climate control system require some coaxing to illuminate. Nothing a good slap can't handle, so far! :)"

"Remote Engine starter has stopped working. Haven't been able to fix, even after trips to dealer. Does make opening doors (and loading car) difficult"

"The check engine light has been on for over 3 yrs, along with the VSC warning light. The Toyota dealer cannot determine the cause and feels that the only way to get rid of the lights is to replace the transmission. But even that is an educated guess"

"Windshield wipers do not work at intermittent setting"

"Comressor is shot"

"AC no longer working. Heater works. Have not had this repaired to find out precisely what is wrong"

"Air compressor failed causing no a/c just before summer. Had it replaced about 2 years ago and it has stopped working again - and just before summer time heat starts again. At this ti,e it still isn’t repaired."

"AC won't cool anymore"

"At about 143k miles the AC stopped working and the fan was blowing only outside air. The mechanic tested the system and said it was the condenser, which we replaced at a total cost of $580. But it still isn't working well, so we have to take it back"

"Heat stopped working entirely. Replaced thermostat, but heat continued to function quite sub-par. Had techs bleed system completely and that seems to have solved the problem"

"I have had intermittent heating system problems since I was given this vehicle by a family member in April 2015. I have repeatedly tried to fix the system, spending over $3000 in total in repairs, and it still does not work well. In fact, when the outdoor temperature is below 35 degrees, it is difficult to get the car to defrost sufficiently to see to drive unless I allow it to warm up for 15 minutes in advance of a trip. This is a major reason I plan to replace the vehicle in the next year and a half as I currently have a 70 mile daily round-trip commute to my employer."

"Had to get a new heater core"

"For past 2 1/2 years, center vents have not functioned (do not blow heat, but do blow A/C). Heat in car is not sufficient for even some comfort, especially in winter. Have had 5 different mechanics inspect (including Columbus area Toyota dealer) and no one can fix the problem."

"There was a leak and the only way to repair it was to pull the dash. Cost of over $3300"

"had a leak that occurred over a long period of time, replaced freon and is working fine now"

"I had the coolant levels charged a couple months ago, however it has recently stopped cooling, just blows warm air."

"Had trouble moving gearshift into first and second gears"

"Syhncro fails to work on down-shifting from 2nd to 1st."

"The transmission had begun to slip before the clutch had to be replaced, and replacing the clutch solved most of the slippage issues. My son says it still doesn't drive perfectly, but I'm very happy with it again, now"

"Motor control module failure lead to rough shifting. There was a recall"

"cooling line from transmission to radiator rusted out"

"Both transmission cooling lines developed leaks, which, if I hadn't noticed the drips, would have easily resulted in transmission failure and replacement"

"Aamco technician had to guess whether replacing a transaxle would stop the leak or not; leak has stopped but did it really need the axle replaced???"

"OBD code 741 caused emission test failure"

"It caused check engine light to come on, which prevents vehicle from passing emissions test. It was the torque converter solenoid forcing us to have the transmission rebuilt. Then a year later, the trans started to leak and had to have it repaired"

"Check engine light came on. Solenoid not working, replaced but still not driving well when slowing down"

"The pump was leaking. The dealer said that it needed to be replaced"

"pump leaked out all fluid"

"One shock (passenger side front) has a seal leak. The steering is not "tight""

"torsion bar sheared apart"

"Replaced sway bar link both sides"

"Steering linkage failed and hydraulic fluid leaked out"

"was driving in traffic and suddenly there was a crash and car would not move"

"The connecting bushing of the tie rods had worn out. That caused uneven wear of left front tire. A metal to metal noise could be heard. Replaced tie rods, new tires, and an alignment and all is great."

"Rear wheel bearing was failing. Had it replaced"

"Drain in the sunroof plugged causing a water leak and rust to the roof body"

"Trunk was getting moldy and found that the rear spoiler was leaking. Upon checking, there is rust around one of the holes into which the spoiler is attached. Also passenger door has leaked when rain hits directly since day 1"

"driver window came off track and would not go down"

"power window separates from internal lift mechanism due to broken attachment pieces which are replaceable parts, but are not sold without buying whole window"

"Window mechanism had to be replaced"

"I have power windows. Some of them rise slowly now. I fear how much it will cost to replace them all."

"master switch failed; unable to open/close windows"

"Window lift regulator failed on driver side power window"

"Clock display was broken when I bought the car, it worked during test drive, but later discovered it has a short in the wiring and would go off. Dealership said it was my problem."

"The clock went blank. Every once in a while it reappears for a few minutes."

"Display screen failed (about 5 years ago) but it involved only the digital clock. No other electronics failed."

"The CD player got jammed up"

"Turning digital volume control knob is problematic. It might go up or down or stay the same. You never know what it will do"

"The radio antenna and some of the dashboard internal wiring was destroyed by mice that appear to have entered the vehicle through the fresh air intake (cowl between the hood and the windshield."

"Rear speaker started buzzing due to cone or voice coil failure."

"Alternator ended up killing battery"

"14-month old battery was killed by the faulty ECM"

"Exide Battery was replaced after only 2 years and 20,000 miles. I think that is too soon"

"The battery needed to be replaced when it would not hold a charge anymore."

"it quit working"

"Starter suddenly failed with no prior indication of a problem. Drove to the grocers, car behaving fine, but would not start when I was ready to leave."

"More specifically, it was the driver's side wheel bearing went out."

"A part called clutch compressor, was defective since around 120,000 miles approximately, but was replaced at 133,964 miles with the serpentine belt and tensioner, a full brake job, including pads, shoes, cylinders, turning rotors and drums, all 4 engine insulators, a front fender liner, which in parts was $1,033.07 for parts only without taxes at one the main local Toyota dealers, called Braulio Agosto Toyota. No complaints even today about this most expensive repair, but if the clutch compresso"

"solenoid failure locking drive"

"cold air blows for a few seconds and then the A/C shuts down"

"Had INTAKE manifold gasket replaced"

"Multiple enginge oil seals began leaking at around 98000 miles. Air intake gasket also failed causing minor induction problems during cold weather"

"Timing Belt needs to be replaced. The car has a slow leak, but I haven't replaced it yet. Cost of repair is $1,300.00 and I am just waiting to have it fixed until the leak gets larger. Toyota has indicated this is a problem on this car at 125,000 mi"