Toyota Prius Change Vehicle

“Digital display failure”

“Digital instrument panel failed - $700”

“Dashboard would go black while driving and lose speedometer, odometer, gas gauge and warning lights. Had to replac "cluster", very costly and time consuming. Also had to replace both the hybrid battery and the smaller battery in rear”

“Headlights needed to be replaced and it was complicated to do ourselves and expensive o have someone else replace them. Also, the light bulbs were expensive”

“Headlight flickered and needed to be replaced. Cost was nearly $200. Rediculous!”

“had to have headlight changed”

“This car has had to have headlights replaced more than one a year for the life of the car”

“Headlight failed - replacement cost was ridiculous”

“Headlights were going dark without any warning. I replaced them and that completely resolved the problem. My concern was 1) I had no idea I was driving with no headlights 2) the cost for headlight replacement was truly high (approx $1500)!”

“One halogen headlight burned out”

“As stated before, the front bumper system needed to be removed in order to change the bulb. This had to be done by the dealer, making it an expensive job. In other cars I have owned, I was able to change the bulb myself”

“headlight failed, expensive replacement of whole light assembly. Same with one taillight”

“Replacing one HID headlight cost about $400 as they had to take off the front bumper to get to the headlight”

“The automatic headlight leveling system malfunctioned”

“The Prius is 'bulletproof' - a fantastic and reliable car. However, the older models have had some issues with their headlights frequently (ever 12-18 months) going out”

“Headlight changed to pink, then blue hue. Finally, it stopped working. Toyota offered no financial help on this safety issue, so I paid around $500 to replace a headlight. I think this is a bad design, and Toyota should have covered the costs”

“Headlights have gone out twice since I have had it. Expensive to replace”

“they "leveling feature" quit working, and the dealer supposedly fixed it, but then it stopped working almost immediately”

“HID documented problem with light going off during driving then coming back on after switching off”

“Bulbs may go out at any time and then will come back on once they are cut off and back on. Experienced this with each headlight several times until they were replaced. Dealer contributed this action to this type of bulbs! I have gone through this wi”

“They needed replaced. Has to be taken to a garage because they were the retractable ones and the bumper of the car needed to be removed to replace them”

“Headlights sometimes go off”

“The headlights burn out frequently (at least one per year)”

“This is a ten year old car. The bulb burned out. I consider that a great record for the car. Also some of the brake lights and running lights burned out, and again I consider that to be acceptable”

“The problem was the igniter, which cost over $500.00 to replace entire head-light assembly”

“In the last six months starting at 102498 miles,I have had five headlights burn out, two passenger side lights and three driver side, today 6/02/25, 10 7365 miles. Most of them were under the repair warrentee. Most checks of components revealed no pr”

“One (HID) headlight will only turn on if the engine compartment is cold. I had a similar problem a few years ago (at 120K miles, 40k miles ago) where one or both headlights would fail to turn on, or worse, turn off while driving. Replacing the bulb”

“head light would not turn off”

“Headlights randomly turn off from bad light computer”

“Special high beam headlight and control panel cost $600 for one light”

“One head light doesn't come on every time I turn the car on. It cost $300 to replace just the light. The problem still isn't corrected because it isn't the light that is the problem. I am going to take the car back to correct the problem”

“occassional failure”

“Had to replace brake light panel at a cost of $250. Headlight also $200”

“Driver's side brake light went out - required replacing entire brake light unit (not just a bulb or two). Appeared to be designed to be replaced in its entirety”

“Fog light is out - not replaced”

“Rear lights sometimes come on during the night, and can't be turned off”

“Replace rear license plate light”

“Difficult access to change bulbs in taillight modules”

“Right brake light went out. One LED out caused all LEDs to fail. Not possible to replace. The whole light assembly had to be replaced @ $225. (It is a sealed unit. What happened to 60 cent bulbs and do it yourself!”

“Again, ten year old car + heavy driving mostly in urban areas I think that this record of reliability to be acceptable”

“Had to replace the rear light assembly in total when some of the lights went out as it is one unit. Seemed absurd to have to pay $280 to fix an out light”

“One of the tail lights stopped working and the entire assembly has to be replaced, not just a bulb. Cost several hundred dollars. Toyota said this was common problem as the car gets older”

“brake light not working”

“Tail light assembly failed. These are LED lights and not replace-able. Needed to replace the whole assembly, which was costly and difficult to install”

“Both stop lights failed at different times. This required that the entire "tail light" assemblies had to be replaced at the cost of $240. each. One headlight failed...can't remember the cost”

“Our key, even with new batteries, isn't recognized so we have to push the unlock button instead of it being recognized when we approach the car”

“It went down completely and the Toyota shop said $2700 to fix. Took it to an electrical guy and he charged $100 plus two new key fobs”

“No longer worked. Used smart key until keyless entry replaced”

“When the key battery dies, you have to take the key apart, and use it like a regular key. The battery was replaced at a dealership -- we couldn't get it apart the rest of the way. Also, after 9 years, the starting battery was replaced (not the hyb”

“Stopped working, needed to be replaced”

“keyless entry only works on rear driver side door and trunk”

“Had to replace the remote control that controls all these function”

“Every time I buy gas, the engine warning light comes on. It last for two to three days. I was told by the Toyota service department that "it probably has to do with a loose wire attached to the gas cap'. It was never fixed”

“The Hybrid battery causes every thing to go off. The new Hybrid battery is only warrantied for 1 year unlimited mileage. The original battery was for 8 years or 100 thoUSnd miles. My question is why is the new battery not as good as the original. Wh”

“Parking brake light stays on. Foot pedal switch needs to be replaced”

“Replaced front struts at about 170,000 miles. No real problem, just a rough ride”

“One strut was leaking. Both needed to be replaced”

“Noise”

“Replaced worn out shocks at 275000 miles”

“Had to replace the entire front left strut”

“Rear shocks needed replacing. Shock attachment poorly designed; mechanic needed to dismantle the trunk area to get at ONE stupid bolt on each shock. All other bolts accessible from underneath”

“I can't recall for sure but I believe it was a routine inspection of the suspension system and, after 200K miles, it needed new struts”

“i strust failed”

“Struts required replacement”

“Front struts diagnosed by dealer as leaking severely at about 125000 miles. Had them replaced”

“Rear struts leaking, replaced. Front struts also need replacement-verified by dealer + 2 mechanics”

“Rear strut gave out and needed replacing”

“Well, the car does have 330,000 miles on it, and the suspension seems to be going out. Replace left front wheel hub and front brakes (myself) all for <$300. Brakes were still ORIGINAL, over 300,000 miles on them. Regenerative braking is great!”

“needed to be replaced - not smooth over bumps”

“Surprised that this failed before about 150000 miles”

“spring frozen”

“Struts and springs both needed replacement”

“One spring broke. Second one replaced”

“One rear coil spring was cracked”

“Left front tie rod had to be replaced at 150,000. Otherwise car has been performing great”

“Dealer insists that tie rods are 'frozen' and need to be replaced every time we try to get the wheels aligned”

“Historically the tire wear has been uneven despite regular rotation, correct pressures, & alignments. Corrected problem with aftermarket shims on rear (which is not supposed to be able to be adjusted.) Tires replaced frequently”

“Suspension is likely the cause of the uneven tire wear”

“damage caused by corrosion due to heavy salting and bimetal housing. hub and bearing replacement”

“Left front wheel bearing”

“Both left and right wheel bearing required replacement. Perhaps the only vehicle I have had that required this fix at this mileage”

“The battery was low, and that caused numerous failures with the door locks, engine ignition, various warning lights, etc”

“The vehicle shuts down when the non-hybrid battery (i.e., battery #1) dies, even if the car is running. Unlike most vehicles that will continue to run after a battery failure, this stup*d thing shuts down at highway speeds when the battery dies”

“Small (normal) battery needed replacement”

“hybrid battery quit. thought i'd have to replace it, but mechanic identified one bad cell and replaced it. working okay for 5 months”

“Trans axle seal replacement & hybrid battery failure”

“it was just out of warranty, unluckily for me”

“At about 130,000 miles hybrid battery warning light came on. Replaced hybrid battery with a refurbished battery warranted for 3 years. Toyota's new batteries are warranted for only 1 year. Toyota needs to extend the warranty on their new batteries”

“Hybrid traction battery failed at 105K miles and had to be replaced”

“Replaced complete hybrid battery system, and also the starter battery”

“New Prius came with as I recall an 8 year warranty on Hybrid battery. Battery needed to be replaced within one or two months of end of Warranty, but we had to pay full cost for new battery. Expressed concern to Toyoto and they sent us a $500. vouc”

“hybrid battery failed and had to be replaced at 148000 miles. Understood that this would happen at some point, but costly repair. Good as new now”

“Hybrid battery lasted 9+ years which was longer than expected. Failure mode was graceful - slow degradation in mileage until lights came on - replaced the battery at dealership”

“Several warning signs lite up. Diagnostics at dealer showed hybrid smart battery going bad. Dealer quoted $2,600 for new battery and $1,300 to install. Currently looking for another service repair shop”

“The hybrid battery system failed at 130k miles. I consider this normal maintenance since this is longer than expected for replacement”

“Th hybrid battery had to be replaced”

“The hybrid battery failure was expensive and the warranty is only a year. Think the warranty should be at least 5 years as the original warranty was 8 years or 100,000 miles”

“The Hybrid Batter had some problems. Toyota replaced it under Warranty. Great service”

“After purchasing the car and driving it for a few months, the master hybrid warning light came on, and the battery needed to be replaced. It was only a few months out of warranty in my state”

“We realized there was a problem when the Master Warning light along with the Brake, VSC, and one other went on. The car still drove OK. We had it diagnosed (for $121). One of the cells in the hybrid battery was bad. So needed to choose to repair with”

“The hybrid battery quit working (thankfully while under warranty) and required a day and a half in the shop to replace. If the warranty hadn't covered the service and battery, the cost would have been over $13,000”

“I was driving and the check engine light came on and the engine would not come on to recharge the battery pack. After I shut off the car I turned it back on and the engine started normally. I took it to the dealer but they could find nothing wrong”

“Failure of cooling stack valve”

“Battery died at 90,000 miles”

“Car would not turn off and then could not turn on. It ended up being a recall item that we found when we did some research. The dealer was not familiar with it”

“this was serious. we do not know what was the original problem. the end result was: entire exhaust pipe replaced, intake airflow sensor replaced, spark plugs replaced. 2 spark plugs were damaged, maybe leading to the airflow sensor failing, killing”