Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“Check engine light error indicated loose gas cap was really a carbon filter”

“vacuum system leak”

“Check engine light comes and diagnostics indicate emission problem”

“Periodic faulty reading on Check Engine sensor Replace the catalytic converters”

“All catalytic converters have failed or are failing”

“Check engine light came on 3 times in 3 months; each time it was a different component of the emission system; charcoal canister, a couple of valves, hoses and a gasket”

“The check engine light comes on periodically and is reset at the dealer. when the check engine light comes on, the Vehicle Stability Control stops working. The problem is reported as the catalytic converter failing”

“had to replace catalytic converters. Both”

“Same as above”

“Catalytic converter needed replacing”

“Catalytic converter and charcoal canister failed. Very expensive repair”

“Check engine light keeps coming on even though I replace both CATS. Might be problem with the computer module as per technical bulletin”

“I don't understand the connection between the previously described caution lights and the transmission - the van was performing flawlessly but needed a 'Smog Check'???”

“it has required service on the sensors 3 times since it was new. As I recall, each time it cost about $1500 to replace the faulty sensor”

“had to replace the o2 sensor twice,all others once. cost 750.00 bucks”

“Both Original engine sensors replaced in 2004. Both Aftermarket sensors replaced in 2014 Each time they failed within months of one another”

“O2 sensor had to be replaced after check engine light came on. After replacement, no problem”

“engine light check comes on- apparently connected to gas cap failure so no real issue with emissions, but need to disconnect electrical then drive for 100 miles to pass inspection”

“Air/Fuel Sensor failed”

“O2 sensor failure, VVT sensors(2) knock sensors 2 All failed within last 50,000 The car now has 406,000km and has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. These problems are expected on a car this age”

“Sensor caused Check Engine Light, needed to be replaced”

“Engine check light kept coming on”

“Engine light comes on to indicate a fuel fumes leak is detected. Mechanic says that the sensors are too sensitive as he cannot locate the leak and says it would be cost prohibitive to look for it. The vehicle runs fine, but the engine light also turn”

“Failed emission test for last two years even after extensive work on the exhaust system”

“Same response as previous item”

“There are three Catalytic converter units on this van and it took over 2 years to get check engine light code to clear for good. Part of problem was oxygen sensor downstream of the last converter unit. Turned out that the converter unit attached to”

“Engine light comes on...had two of the three sensors replaced...light still on...replacing the 3rd sensor soon”

“Sensor repair was expensive, and the repair did not entirely solve this issue”

“Had to be replaced”

“The passenger-side sliding door has stopped opening with the button push (it still works manually). The driver-side sliding door sometimes will not close with the button push, but mostly does”

“Automatic door broken. Mechanic could not determine cause and repair it, so we had the door mechanism disconnected”

“Power sliding doors fail regularly”

“Drivers side power door opens ok, but often won't power close. Door will start to close and then open again. Power door switch must be turned off and door closed manually. Passenger side door is OK”

“The power door motor & mother board were replaced twice while under warranty. The power door stopped working again right after my warranty expired. Again I was told (by a Toyota dealership shop) it was the motherboard & motor. I threw a fit! Turns ou”

“Driver's door handle broke and needed to be replaced”

“I have had to replace all of my door handles but the driver's door handle in the last 12 months. I had to replace the back door latch and another part to enable it to open and stay closed”

“Plastic latches finally broke requiring replacement”

“Exterior door handle broke on rear, passenger side sliding door”

“Sliding door handle broke off... no way to open door from outside”

“Have replaced all door locks and handles repeatedly during life of van”

“sliding door handle/lock & tailgate handle/lock broke”

“tailgate handle and door handle both broke, had to replace. Door latch had to be readjusted”

“Master switch relay for door locks”

“My passenger side handles have both been replaced. One broke completely and the other wouldn't open. The driver's side sliding door handle is breaking. It frequently won't open from the outside and rarely opens from the inside”

“Both driver's side and passenger side mirror aperatus failed and unable to be adjusted”

“Latch for tailgate broke internally and we were unable to open it”

“Latch broken. Could not open hatch”

“The tailgate would not open and repairing required disassembling the tailgate in order to get to the lock/latch to replace it. The part cost $80, but the labor was over $300”

“The tailgate latch locked, so I couldn't open it”

“broken latch”

“Driver side window is not working properly and it would cost a lot to repair”

“the power doors and rear power windows don't work”

“Replace worn structs $1000 is expensive”

“Worn out - need to be replaced. Sway bat link broken”

“TIRE WEAR AND STEERING STABILITY”

“The mechanic recommended replacing the struts due to the high mileage. I did. The old struts were worn out. They gave 210000 of service, and 14 years”

“replaced front axel c/v joint”

“Rack was noticed to be leaking. Replaced under warranty on schedule”

“Made a popping noise when steering wheel was turned lock to lock. The rack and pinion was replaced”

“rack and pinion replaced”

“Part of the same incident”

“The lug nuts on the front tires keep coming loose after driving approx. 200 miles! Thought I had a flat but it was the lug nuts! This has happened 3 times now”