Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

"Check engine light came on 3 times in 3 months; each time it was a different component of the emission system; charcoal canister, a couple of valves, hoses and a gasket"

"The check engine light comes on periodically and is reset at the dealer. when the check engine light comes on, the Vehicle Stability Control stops working. The problem is reported as the catalytic converter failing"

"had to replace catalytic converters. Both"

"Same as above"

"Catalytic converter needed replacing"

"Catalytic converter and charcoal canister failed. Very expensive repair"

"Check engine light keeps coming on even though I replace both CATS. Might be problem with the computer module as per technical bulletin"

"The emission light is always on even after getting it fixed."

"Emission control lines, sensors, on fuel tank leaked causing fumes. Had to pull tank out twice to repair. Still smell fumes at times around rear of vehicle, can’t find anything wrong"

"Catalytic converter failure"

"Don't think it will pass inspection next September if I don't get it fixed before hand. Other than that this has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. I will always buy a Toyota at this point"

"The vehicle at random will stop allowing gasoline fill-ups due to the fuel "evap" system being clogged somehow. Gas pumps (at all stations tested) will stop continuously after only pumping a quarter gallon to a half gallon of fuel, even at slowest setting. Only time fixes the issue until it starts occurring again with no predictable pattern. The fuel tank has never been "topped off""

"The check engine light kept coming on. The dealer worked on the emissions system components three times before they finally found a leak in one of the hoses"

"Check engine light error indicated loose gas cap was really a carbon filter"

"vacuum system leak"

"EVAP system slow leaks. Too many possibilities, lots of plastic parts. Expensive to fix, costs thousands to track down, didn't work, track some more, etc."

"Had to be replaced"

"Both Original engine sensors replaced in 2004. Both Aftermarket sensors replaced in 2014 Each time they failed within months of one another"

"O2 sensor had to be replaced after check engine light came on. After replacement, no problem"

"engine light check comes on- apparently connected to gas cap failure so no real issue with emissions, but need to disconnect electrical then drive for 100 miles to pass inspection"

"Air/Fuel Sensor failed"

"O2 sensor failure, VVT sensors(2) knock sensors 2 All failed within last 50,000 The car now has 406,000km and has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. These problems are expected on a car this age"

"Sensor caused Check Engine Light, needed to be replaced"

"Engine check light kept coming on"

"Engine light comes on to indicate a fuel fumes leak is detected. Mechanic says that the sensors are too sensitive as he cannot locate the leak and says it would be cost prohibitive to look for it. The vehicle runs fine, but the engine light also turn"

"Failed emission test for last two years even after extensive work on the exhaust system"

"Same response as previous item"

"There are three Catalytic converter units on this van and it took over 2 years to get check engine light code to clear for good. Part of problem was oxygen sensor downstream of the last converter unit. Turned out that the converter unit attached to"

"Engine light comes on...had two of the three sensors replaced...light still on...replacing the 3rd sensor soon"

"Sensor repair was expensive, and the repair did not entirely solve this issue"

"Check engine light came on October 2019. Car parts store read the code for inefficiency of the O2 sensor past the catalytic converter. I purchased the part, removed the old one, and the new sensor turned of the CEL. No issues since."

"I don't understand the connection between the previously described caution lights and the transmission - the van was performing flawlessly but needed a 'Smog Check'???"

"it has required service on the sensors 3 times since it was new. As I recall, each time it cost about $1500 to replace the faulty sensor"

"had to replace the o2 sensor twice,all others once. cost 750.00 bucks"

"had to replace 4 sensors, cost $750.00"

"heated O2 sensors on exhaust manifold banks have heater elements go out on them. Didn't notice any change in engine behavior or mileage, but Check Engine light was on for a year before I replaced."

"Power sliding doors fail regularly"

"Drivers side power door opens ok, but often won't power close. Door will start to close and then open again. Power door switch must be turned off and door closed manually. Passenger side door is OK"

"The power door motor & mother board were replaced twice while under warranty. The power door stopped working again right after my warranty expired. Again I was told (by a Toyota dealership shop) it was the motherboard & motor. I threw a fit! Turns ou"

"Sliding door will sometimes not open nor close."

"The door would not complete close either electronically or manually. I had to drive to the location and push very hard."

"The roller on the sliding door drops into a rust hole in the chassis and must be lifted to close the door."

"We had to replace our power door parts twice since we bought the car, costing about $1000 each time. The first time it was covered under warranty. When the power door stopped working a 3rd time the Toyota dealership told us we needed a new motherboard. We decided not to replace it. Then I had a mechanic try to fix the dash light that would go on and off when I was driving. Afterwards, my door worked! It was not a motherboard issue, it was a loose cable! Recently, the power cable snapped. We had"

"The lower roller on the sliding door on passenger side falls into slot in the chassis and must be lifted to close. The slot is a rusted hole in the chassis"

"Power sliding doors will power open but won't power close. Pushing the button to close results in the door moving slightly in an opening direction and then moving back. It's as if the door doesn't know it's open Power door switch must be off to manually close doors. Doors open and close OK manually with switch off."

"Plastic latches finally broke requiring replacement"

"Exterior door handle broke on rear, passenger side sliding door"

"Sliding door handle broke off... no way to open door from outside"

"Have replaced all door locks and handles repeatedly during life of van"

"sliding door handle/lock & tailgate handle/lock broke"

"tailgate handle and door handle both broke, had to replace. Door latch had to be readjusted"

"Master switch relay for door locks"

"My passenger side handles have both been replaced. One broke completely and the other wouldn't open. The driver's side sliding door handle is breaking. It frequently won't open from the outside and rarely opens from the inside"

"Driver's door handle broke and needed to be replaced"

"I have had to replace all of my door handles but the driver's door handle in the last 12 months. I had to replace the back door latch and another part to enable it to open and stay closed"

"Both driver's side and passenger side mirror aperatus failed and unable to be adjusted"

"Latch broken. Could not open hatch"

"The tailgate would not open and repairing required disassembling the tailgate in order to get to the lock/latch to replace it. The part cost $80, but the labor was over $300"

"The tailgate latch locked, so I couldn't open it"

"broken latch"

"Will not open"

"Latch for tailgate broke internally and we were unable to open it"

"Driver side window is not working properly and it would cost a lot to repair"

"the power doors and rear power windows don't work"

"Power steering fluid has been leaking for a couple years now. I've been using various stop leak products. I'm using a certain brand right now and it seems to be stopping the leak. But sorry I don't remember brand right now, have to check garage. Email me if it's relevant."

"Having to add fluid weekly."

"Rapid as yet undiagnosed leak"

"Replace worn structs $1000 is expensive"

"Worn out - need to be replaced. Sway bat link broken"

"TIRE WEAR AND STEERING STABILITY"

"The mechanic recommended replacing the struts due to the high mileage. I did. The old struts were worn out. They gave 210000 of service, and 14 years"

"Strut mounts failed"

"Rack was noticed to be leaking. Replaced under warranty on schedule"

"Made a popping noise when steering wheel was turned lock to lock. The rack and pinion was replaced"

"rack and pinion replaced"

"Tie rods were changed. Than steering got imprecise. Van was drifting on freeway. Mechanic changed steering gear mounting bushing. Now it steering much better."

"replaced front axel c/v joint"

"The lug nuts on the front tires keep coming loose after driving approx. 200 miles! Thought I had a flat but it was the lug nuts! This has happened 3 times now"

"Part of the same incident"

"I believe it was called tie rods or maybe end rods. I believe it was at the end closer to the tires. It usually made a noise when I made a left turn from thr curb to the road. After the repair I no longer hear the noise. I also have leak in my pwr steering system(not sure where) but I need to refill reservoir about once week. I am using stop leak to try to alleviate problem."

"The right rear wheel bearing became noisy and due to corrosion had to be removed with a cutting torch."