Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

"Check engine light came on 3 times in 3 months; each time it was a different component of the emission system; charcoal canister, a couple of valves, hoses and a gasket"

"The check engine light comes on periodically and is reset at the dealer. when the check engine light comes on, the Vehicle Stability Control stops working. The problem is reported as the catalytic converter failing"

"had to replace catalytic converters. Both"

"Same as above"

"Catalytic converter needed replacing"

"Catalytic converter and charcoal canister failed. Very expensive repair"

"Check engine light keeps coming on even though I replace both CATS. Might be problem with the computer module as per technical bulletin"

"Emission control lines, sensors, on fuel tank leaked causing fumes. Had to pull tank out twice to repair. Still smell fumes at times around rear of vehicle, can’t find anything wrong"

"Catalytic converter failure"

"Don't think it will pass inspection next September if I don't get it fixed before hand. Other than that this has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. I will always buy a Toyota at this point"

"The vehicle at random will stop allowing gasoline fill-ups due to the fuel "evap" system being clogged somehow. Gas pumps (at all stations tested) will stop continuously after only pumping a quarter gallon to a half gallon of fuel, even at slowest setting. Only time fixes the issue until it starts occurring again with no predictable pattern. The fuel tank has never been "topped off""

"The check engine light kept coming on. The dealer worked on the emissions system components three times before they finally found a leak in one of the hoses"

"Check engine light error indicated loose gas cap was really a carbon filter"

"vacuum system leak"

"EVAP system slow leaks. Too many possibilities, lots of plastic parts. Expensive to fix, costs thousands to track down, didn't work, track some more, etc."

"Had to be replaced"

"Both Original engine sensors replaced in 2004. Both Aftermarket sensors replaced in 2014 Each time they failed within months of one another"

"O2 sensor had to be replaced after check engine light came on. After replacement, no problem"

"engine light check comes on- apparently connected to gas cap failure so no real issue with emissions, but need to disconnect electrical then drive for 100 miles to pass inspection"

"Air/Fuel Sensor failed"

"O2 sensor failure, VVT sensors(2) knock sensors 2 All failed within last 50,000 The car now has 406,000km and has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. These problems are expected on a car this age"

"Sensor caused Check Engine Light, needed to be replaced"

"Engine check light kept coming on"

"Engine light comes on to indicate a fuel fumes leak is detected. Mechanic says that the sensors are too sensitive as he cannot locate the leak and says it would be cost prohibitive to look for it. The vehicle runs fine, but the engine light also turn"

"Failed emission test for last two years even after extensive work on the exhaust system"

"Same response as previous item"

"There are three Catalytic converter units on this van and it took over 2 years to get check engine light code to clear for good. Part of problem was oxygen sensor downstream of the last converter unit. Turned out that the converter unit attached to"

"Engine light comes on...had two of the three sensors replaced...light still on...replacing the 3rd sensor soon"

"Sensor repair was expensive, and the repair did not entirely solve this issue"

"I don't understand the connection between the previously described caution lights and the transmission - the van was performing flawlessly but needed a 'Smog Check'???"

"it has required service on the sensors 3 times since it was new. As I recall, each time it cost about $1500 to replace the faulty sensor"

"had to replace the o2 sensor twice,all others once. cost 750.00 bucks"

"had to replace 4 sensors, cost $750.00"

"heated O2 sensors on exhaust manifold banks have heater elements go out on them. Didn't notice any change in engine behavior or mileage, but Check Engine light was on for a year before I replaced."

"Power sliding doors fail regularly"

"Drivers side power door opens ok, but often won't power close. Door will start to close and then open again. Power door switch must be turned off and door closed manually. Passenger side door is OK"

"The power door motor & mother board were replaced twice while under warranty. The power door stopped working again right after my warranty expired. Again I was told (by a Toyota dealership shop) it was the motherboard & motor. I threw a fit! Turns ou"

"The roller on the sliding door drops into a rust hole in the chassis and must be lifted to close the door."

"We had to replace our power door parts twice since we bought the car, costing about $1000 each time. The first time it was covered under warranty. When the power door stopped working a 3rd time the Toyota dealership told us we needed a new motherboard. We decided not to replace it. Then I had a mechanic try to fix the dash light that would go on and off when I was driving. Afterwards, my door worked! It was not a motherboard issue, it was a loose cable! Recently, the power cable snapped. We had"

"The lower roller on the sliding door on passenger side falls into slot in the chassis and must be lifted to close. The slot is a rusted hole in the chassis"

"Power sliding doors will power open but won't power close. Pushing the button to close results in the door moving slightly in an opening direction and then moving back. It's as if the door doesn't know it's open Power door switch must be off to manually close doors. Doors open and close OK manually with switch off."

"Plastic latches finally broke requiring replacement"

"Exterior door handle broke on rear, passenger side sliding door"

"Sliding door handle broke off... no way to open door from outside"

"Have replaced all door locks and handles repeatedly during life of van"

"sliding door handle/lock & tailgate handle/lock broke"

"tailgate handle and door handle both broke, had to replace. Door latch had to be readjusted"

"Master switch relay for door locks"

"My passenger side handles have both been replaced. One broke completely and the other wouldn't open. The driver's side sliding door handle is breaking. It frequently won't open from the outside and rarely opens from the inside"

"Driver's door handle broke and needed to be replaced"

"I have had to replace all of my door handles but the driver's door handle in the last 12 months. I had to replace the back door latch and another part to enable it to open and stay closed"

"Both driver's side and passenger side mirror aperatus failed and unable to be adjusted"

"Latch broken. Could not open hatch"

"The tailgate would not open and repairing required disassembling the tailgate in order to get to the lock/latch to replace it. The part cost $80, but the labor was over $300"

"The tailgate latch locked, so I couldn't open it"

"broken latch"

"Latch for tailgate broke internally and we were unable to open it"

"Driver side window is not working properly and it would cost a lot to repair"

"the power doors and rear power windows don't work"

"not working"

"Brake lights stopped working"

"Several dashboard lights are out"

"The automatic light shut-off system randomly stops working, leaving all interior and exterior (headlights) on even if the car is turned off, key removed, and all doors locked, leading to battery drain problems"

"none of the interior lights work"

"All the dash board lights are out, so it is hard to read Gage's at night"

"electronic lock/unlock from key fob not working"

"Relay under dash that controls power door locks and interior lights has failed"

"The keyless entry system, the key fob, has stopped working dependably. I replaced the battery, but it still causes problems, sometimes opening the door locks and other times not. We recently lived through the camp fire in Paradise, Ca and wonder if that somehow affected the system either through dirt or debris or some other cause. However, we can still operate the locks through the key itself. I have cleaned the fob several times and replaced other batteries to no avail."

"the keyless entry has not worked for a couple of years."

"Pressure warning light appears wired via key barrel switch . Toyota Dealer was no help"

"Check engine light goes on erroneously during extremely cold weather. Tire pressure light goes on every time a tire is changed and does not go off unless a technician resets the sensor. It's a hassle"

"Key barrel gets stuck. Causes ABS and tire pressure warning lights to come on. Replacement ignition key barrel is very expensive and requires new key programming and other lock adjustment. Repairing existing ignition key barrel is likely the best solution. Common problem on some Toyotas"