Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“right-rear caliper was sticking, caused pre-mature wear, had to replace all rear brake components”

“Did not release properly - causing overheating”

“The brakes were "squishy". We took the car in for that problem. They found the Master cylinder was leaking. They replaced that at Midas. In the course of that repair, they found evidence of a leaking Head Gasket. We took the van to Toyota for that repair, it was covered by the extendended warranty. The water pump and the spark plugs were also replaced at the same time while the engine was all apart.. we were happy with the service”

“fluid leak”

“Dealer said there was a leak but totally in error . Looking for work”

“Rear calipers locked up one in winter the other in spring. Dealer blamed the first on ice but nothing to blame the second one on”

“Front brake pads wore out at only 38,000 miles”

“Brakes wear fast”

“Brakes just chewed up metal”

“Had to have rear brakes and rotors replaced. Dealer said problem was due to rust. they were not worn. Has to be either poor design or poor quality”

“When I took my van into the dealership for front brake replacement, I was told I also needed back brakes. When I said that I found it unusual to have to replace the rear brakes at the same time as the front brakes, the dealership's "service consultan”

“Routine brake wear was not fixed properly, so still hear some grinding after 3 attempts to fix it”

“Breaks appear to be significantly undersized for the capacity of the vehicle and wear very, very quickly likely due to overheating”

“See: squeaking”

“they rust very fast and are very expensive, I replaced them by independent manufacturer at one half the cost and they perform very well”

“Had to replace the rear brake rotors, but not surprised by this. It was expected, normal wear and tear”

“Needs brakes and rotors turned about every 30-40k”

“next to last brake replacement rotors were turned and brake use caused rotor to warp. replace with new rotors on back wheels”

“Rotor and brake pad wore out due to faulty caliper”

“Rotors were cleaned and adjusted once then replaced within 4 weeks; still makes noise”

“Tried after market pads and rotors, but squeaked. Tried after market rotors with OEM pads, still squeaked. Tried OEM pads and rotors, no squeak”

“Squeaking when backing up.Front pads were replaced”

“Brakes often squeak while backing out of the driveway”

“It's more like "scrapping" in the front brakes when brake pedal is hard applied; diagnosed as rotors; replaced twice and still not solved”

“We have had the brakes replaced three times. Each time they squeak when you place pressure on the breaks. Very odd and something that I thought would go away after the dealer installed new brake pads”

“normal use”

“This wasn't anything I wouldn't expect on a 2010 model with 80,000 miles on it”

“pretty expensive”

“There are disc brakes on all 4 wheels. Drums on the back wheels would have made the repair bill much cheaper”

“This was identified during a check up. New discs were very easy to replace. Rotors were in excellent condition”

“Auto mechanic discovered this during a routine oil change. Repair was covered by extended warranty. Estimated cost $1,300”

“We ran over a sandstone rock in a rainstorm. It shattered and damaged the undercarriage a bit; later, we ran over a curb and damaged underneath. I think that is why we had to replace the struts. The steering never got shaky”

“My rear shocks were leaking badly and the car made a clunky noise when I went over bumps. The front struts are beginning to leak and I have been told they should be replaced soon”

“strut mount bearings failing, starts with popping, clicking noise when turning”

“Needed new rear shock after only 60,00 miles”

“rear shock broke”

“Rack and Pinion was leaking power steering fluid. Replaced rack”

“Steering would suddenly become difficult. Immediately took to dealer, Repaired and no subsequent problems”

“My feeling is that the tire company used rotation of the tires as an opportunity to squirt fluid on the rack and claim it needed repair of a leak. Our mechanic found no damage and didn't charge for the inspection”

“had to replace rack & pinion”

“Seal and hose leaks”

“Car was losing power steering fluid. Dealer replaced rack and pinion steering”

“Had to replace rack and pinion”

“Tires wear on the inside. All sets of tires that I have purchased for the vehicle ( 3 sets so far) wear the same way. I have had multiple front end alignment checks and it has always been reported that the wheels were aligned according to manufacturer specifications”

“I purchased tires with 90,000 mile ratings on them. I have been unable to get over 25000 miles 9on a set of tires dispite ensuring rotation, alignment checks and proper pressure. Un even wear on outside edges of tires in front”

“Excessive road noise was experienced but dealer had me pay for balancing and alignment. It was only when I took the van to a local auto repair shop that the bearing issue was diagnosed correctly and solved when replaced”

“Right rear wheel bearing making noise. Replaced hub assembly with new”

“Right rear, should last Long time!”

“Covered by warranty, completely. Nice”

“noise on turns”

“Power-operated left side sliding door would not open. Intermittent problem. Operating mechanism was replaced under extended warranty”

“My driver side door is about ready to snap off. The hinge makes a cracking noise every time I open it. I open the door just enough to get out but try to never open if all the way as I am afraid the hinge is going to break. I had a problem like this with a previous Sienna and was quoted about $1500.00 for a new door”

“not working properly”

“One sliding door had to be fixed at dealership”

“driver side sliding door failed due to broken cable. Cost to repair is $1400. Told the dealership to make it a manual door”

“cable for automatic sliding doors broke, motor worked (you could hear it). They claimed can't replace cable whole motor assembly needed to be replaced”

“Due to an impact, the gas tank lid was pushed out of shape which made the door hard to open”

“Passenger side door doesn't always open easily. Back opening hard to pull down”

“Driver's Side Sliding door cable snapped”

“CABLE THAT AUTOMATICALLY OPENS / CLOSES THE DRIVERS SIDE SLIDING DOOR FAILED. TOYOTA ESTIMATED $2,000 TO REPLACE IT. NOW WE JUST OPEN AND CLOSE THE DOOR BY HAND”

“Sliding doors have jammed several times since first year. Taken it to them when it was under warranty. Now after warranty I took it last year and they said it's no longer under warranty (even though we've had problems under warranty). Also the”

“The cables for both passenger automatic sliding doors broke requiring replacement”

“Cable broke on one door, handle doesn't work from outside on the other”

“The windshield glass cracked very easily with road debris”

“The glass in the sunroof spontaneously shattered for no apparent reason and was very expensive and complicated to replace. The sunroof is something that after market glass companies don't handle, and the dealer had many difficulties in repairing it”

“The tailgate lock sensor seems to have problem. Even though it is locked and closed, the light comes up on the dashboard often”

“The hatch has always worked VERY hard. The handle is hard to pull and you have to use a lot of strength to open the hatch. Closing it is also hard, I have to pull it down and then push it. It does close once you get it all the way down, but this has always bugged me that it needs two hands most of the time”

“Drivers side height adjustment lever is stripped”