Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

"Rear caliper froze which wore out the pad and rotor"

"right-rear caliper was sticking, caused pre-mature wear, had to replace all rear brake components"

"Did not release properly - causing overheating"

"multiple calipers seized up had to be replaced."

"Rear calipers had to be replaced prematurely at under 90000 miles due to intermittent dragging."

"One rear caliper ceased. Mechanic replaced caliper and pads (rotor ok) for $320. Not unexpected considering it lasted 125k miles."

"Had 3 different Calipers not releasing enough and causing overheating of disc."

"Sticking caliper resulted in premature wearing and replacement of brakes"

"Dealer said calipers of rear brakes were locking and wearing out brakes. These brakes had just been redone elsewhere 6 months before. Not sure if dealer was honest."

"The brakes were "squishy". We took the car in for that problem. They found the Master cylinder was leaking. They replaced that at Midas. In the course of that repair, they found evidence of a leaking Head Gasket. We took the van to Toyota for that repair, it was covered by the extendended warranty. The water pump and the spark plugs were also replaced at the same time while the engine was all apart.. we were happy with the service"

"fluid leak"

"Dealer said there was a leak but totally in error . Looking for work"

"Brakes were grinding, needed normal replacement"

"Brake system was replaced after noises were noticed"

"normal use"

"This wasn't anything I wouldn't expect on a 2010 model with 80,000 miles on it"

"pretty expensive"

"There are disc brakes on all 4 wheels. Drums on the back wheels would have made the repair bill much cheaper"

"This was identified during a check up. New discs were very easy to replace. Rotors were in excellent condition"

"Not overly happy about the brake pads lasting that long. Might have to do it soon as it starts squealing again ever so lightly"

"This van has been exceptional. All we have ever replaced are brakes and tires. I would buy it again."

"I experienced normal noises with brakes that need attention, such as grinding and squealing."

"The parking brake did not seem to work from the day we bought the Sienna, but the dealer didn’t agree. After I had a independent shop fix the parking brake it now works."

"Rear calipers locked up one in winter the other in spring. Dealer blamed the first on ice but nothing to blame the second one on"

"Front brake pads wore out at only 38,000 miles"

"Brakes wear fast"

"Brakes just chewed up metal"

"Had to have rear brakes and rotors replaced. Dealer said problem was due to rust. they were not worn. Has to be either poor design or poor quality"

"When I took my van into the dealership for front brake replacement, I was told I also needed back brakes. When I said that I found it unusual to have to replace the rear brakes at the same time as the front brakes, the dealership's "service consultan"

"Routine brake wear was not fixed properly, so still hear some grinding after 3 attempts to fix it"

"Breaks appear to be significantly undersized for the capacity of the vehicle and wear very, very quickly likely due to overheating"

"Premature brake wear on rear due to caliper problem."

"I do not believe brakes need to be repaired in less than 40,000 miles as I live in a town with 1 traffic light and am retired and do not commute in heavy traffic. I am on my third set of pads in less than 80,000 miles and consider this the only bad part of this vechicle."

"A rear brake began to drag somewhat causing black material to gathher on the wheel rim. I did have three wheels onwhich the brakes were still functionng."

"Have had to replace too frequently"

"See: squeaking"

"they rust very fast and are very expensive, I replaced them by independent manufacturer at one half the cost and they perform very well"

"Had to replace the rear brake rotors, but not surprised by this. It was expected, normal wear and tear"

"Needs brakes and rotors turned about every 30-40k"

"next to last brake replacement rotors were turned and brake use caused rotor to warp. replace with new rotors on back wheels"

"Rotor and brake pad wore out due to faulty caliper"

"Rotors were cleaned and adjusted once then replaced within 4 weeks; still makes noise"

"Tried after market pads and rotors, but squeaked. Tried after market rotors with OEM pads, still squeaked. Tried OEM pads and rotors, no squeak"

"Squeaking when backing up.Front pads were replaced"

"Brakes often squeak while backing out of the driveway"

"It's more like "scrapping" in the front brakes when brake pedal is hard applied; diagnosed as rotors; replaced twice and still not solved"

"We have had the brakes replaced three times. Each time they squeak when you place pressure on the breaks. Very odd and something that I thought would go away after the dealer installed new brake pads"

"tech bulletin changed pads"

"Have had the brakes checked several times, including re-turning disks and new pads. Still squeaks when first starting. Very annoying and the problem is not worn brakes."

"The passenger side linkage boot has disintegrated, leaving the parts to become dirty and starting to make noise and become stiff and clunky upon turning right."

"noise on turns"

"Power steering leaks meant a whole new power steering rack"

"Power steering leak must be fixed before next annual State Inspection. Approx cost $1000"

"Power steering gear assembly leaked. Replaced power steering gear assembly. Partly under warranty"

"Auto mechanic discovered this during a routine oil change. Repair was covered by extended warranty. Estimated cost $1,300"

"i'm really not exactly sure, but it was about $200 to fix"

"leak in power steering pump"

"power steering rack seal leaking"

"Pump was leaking and had to be replaced at 105,000. Very expensive...especially paired with the steering rack."

"Leaking power steering pump"

"Struts had to be replaced. Caused uneven tire wear"

"I was having tire wear and the dealer found the shocks needed replaced so I had them replace them. Normal wear and tear."

"We ran over a sandstone rock in a rainstorm. It shattered and damaged the undercarriage a bit; later, we ran over a curb and damaged underneath. I think that is why we had to replace the struts. The steering never got shaky"

"My rear shocks were leaking badly and the car made a clunky noise when I went over bumps. The front struts are beginning to leak and I have been told they should be replaced soon"

"strut mount bearings failing, starts with popping, clicking noise when turning"

"Needed new rear shock after only 60,00 miles"

"rear shock broke"

"Left front strut leaked and was replaced. Left front universal joint rubber boot leaked and was replaced. Additional information. I have had two problems with the Air Conditioner, plus two engine pan gaskets were replaced and the back up camera works 95% of the time. Cannot find problem with camera because problem is intermittent. The laser cruise control is spastic - it is not broken - it just does not work very well in my opinion. It slows you down when approaching another car then when they pull over it puts the pedal to the metal to regain the set speed. It is useless in the mountains were there are lots of curves."

"Struts were replaced last winter. Per the mechanic, they blew. He replaced them under warranty."

"Had to be replaced at 105,000. Very expensive even at a local mechanic shop."

"A leak was discovered during an oil change at 100000 miles or so. We had it replaced immediately. The leak was found again at the next oil change and we were told the part must have been defective and it was replaced at no charge. No issues with it since."

"Entire rack and pinion steering rack had to be replaced due to leaking power steering fluid seals."

"Rack and Pinion was leaking power steering fluid. Replaced rack"

"Steering would suddenly become difficult. Immediately took to dealer, Repaired and no subsequent problems"

"My feeling is that the tire company used rotation of the tires as an opportunity to squirt fluid on the rack and claim it needed repair of a leak. Our mechanic found no damage and didn't charge for the inspection"

"had to replace rack & pinion"

"Seal and hose leaks"

"Car was losing power steering fluid. Dealer replaced rack and pinion steering"

"Had to replace rack and pinion"

"leaking, needed new rack and pinion installed."

"Boot tore on rack and pinion."

"Replaced front struts and supports. Replaced power steering Rack. All to the tune of $2679.93!!!"

"Super expensive to fix. According to local dealers I called for pricing. Toyota is known for bad steering."

"Boot leaking fluid. Streering rack replaced."

"Power steering developed slow leaks on both sides of the rack and pinion assembly. Dealer recommended replacement of complete rack and pinion assembly due to potential damage internally resulting from the leaks. For safety reasons, we have proceeded with the repair."

"It was leaking oil. Expensive repair (over $1000), Not sure if really essential or getting ripped off by service station"

"leakage, torn boot"

"This van is very hard on the front tires. I purchase only 80k-90K mile tread life tires (Michelin) and can barely get 25,000 miles even with proper inflation and on schedule rotations."

"Tires wear on the inside. All sets of tires that I have purchased for the vehicle ( 3 sets so far) wear the same way. I have had multiple front end alignment checks and it has always been reported that the wheels were aligned according to manufacturer specifications"

"I purchased tires with 90,000 mile ratings on them. I have been unable to get over 25000 miles 9on a set of tires dispite ensuring rotation, alignment checks and proper pressure. Un even wear on outside edges of tires in front"

"Tires wear on inside. They have since purchase. Have aligned several times, but does not fix issue."

"Caused by previous problem discussed."

"I purchased the van five years ago and I have had to replace all four tires 3 times over the course of 80,000 miles. I believe the van was in a front end accident before we purchased it and I am wondering if something happened to the frame. Replacement was needed even with regular rotations and alignment checks. The front end links have been replaced twice as well."

"Excessive road noise was experienced but dealer had me pay for balancing and alignment. It was only when I took the van to a local auto repair shop that the bearing issue was diagnosed correctly and solved when replaced"

"Right rear wheel bearing making noise. Replaced hub assembly with new"

"Right rear, should last Long time!"

"Remote Opening / Closing of side and back tail gate stopped functioning"

"Driver-side power siding door hinge broke. This was not covered by the extended warranty"

"One of the power sliding doors broke (i.e. is no longer power). I could close it manually, but it would not open more than 8 inches. Estimate to repair was $2,500. According to my research, this is a very common occurrence with Siennas"

"Power-operated left side sliding door would not open. Intermittent problem. Operating mechanism was replaced under extended warranty"

"My driver side door is about ready to snap off. The hinge makes a cracking noise every time I open it. I open the door just enough to get out but try to never open if all the way as I am afraid the hinge is going to break. I had a problem like this with a previous Sienna and was quoted about $1500.00 for a new door"

"not working properly"

"One sliding door had to be fixed at dealership"

"driver side sliding door failed due to broken cable. Cost to repair is $1400. Told the dealership to make it a manual door"

"cable for automatic sliding doors broke, motor worked (you could hear it). They claimed can't replace cable whole motor assembly needed to be replaced"

"Due to an impact, the gas tank lid was pushed out of shape which made the door hard to open"

"Passenger side door doesn't always open easily. Back opening hard to pull down"

"Driver's Side Sliding door cable snapped"

"CABLE THAT AUTOMATICALLY OPENS / CLOSES THE DRIVERS SIDE SLIDING DOOR FAILED. TOYOTA ESTIMATED $2,000 TO REPLACE IT. NOW WE JUST OPEN AND CLOSE THE DOOR BY HAND"

"Sliding doors have jammed several times since first year. Taken it to them when it was under warranty. Now after warranty I took it last year and they said it's no longer under warranty (even though we've had problems under warranty). Also the"

"The cables for both passenger automatic sliding doors broke requiring replacement"

"Cable broke on one door, handle doesn't work from outside on the other"

"Motorized sliding door cable broke. This should be a recall as it is a common problem reported by many users"

"The passenger side back door sometimes sticks and has to be pulled open by hand. Dealer keeps lubricating which only helps temporarily. Other sliding door no problems."

"Within the last 12 months, I had to have the passenger side sliding door cable replaced. Also, more than 12-months ago, I had to have the hinge on the driver's side sliding door replaced. Both repairs cost more than $1,000."

"side passenger door kept opening unless I pushed it in when it came close to shutting"

"The cable snapped that operates the automatic sliding door. This makes the door very difficult to open/close."

"The windshield glass cracked very easily with road debris"

"related to the sliding door issue (mentioned earlier) the lock will not engage if the door is manually forced open"

"Steel wire broken from power sliding door jamming and preventing door from opening or closing."

"Approximately 2 years ago, our Sienna tailgate latch covering, which is rubber, became melted. A portion of the rubber came off and is stuck to the top of the rear bumper. The latch itself is not as easy to release, and I get black rubber on my fingers each time I manually lift the tailgate."

"Drivers side height adjustment lever is stripped"

"The glass in the sunroof spontaneously shattered for no apparent reason and was very expensive and complicated to replace. The sunroof is something that after market glass companies don't handle, and the dealer had many difficulties in repairing it"

"The tailgate lock sensor seems to have problem. Even though it is locked and closed, the light comes up on the dashboard often"

"The hatch has always worked VERY hard. The handle is hard to pull and you have to use a lot of strength to open the hatch. Closing it is also hard, I have to pull it down and then push it. It does close once you get it all the way down, but this has always bugged me that it needs two hands most of the time"