Toyota Tundra Change Vehicle

"the moulding around the rear window and the passenger windows cracked, became brittle, and deteriorated."

"Trim became loose and fell off in some instances. On doors and roof trim. Costly replacement"

"Rubber trim has come loose"

"Trim at base of driver's side window is loose and coming off"

"Around 5 years of age severe paint fading and peeling on the roof area and around the wheel well flares."

"Top clear coat fading on top."

"Fading on roof line"

"2 or 3 years ago clear coat started pealing on hood & roof. Had repainted about 12 months ago."

"Paint on hood flaking and chipping on hood."

"Even new, this vehicle did not have a clear coat which resulted in premature fading over the years. Attempts at regularly polishing the vehicle to maintain the shine, failed, and led to several areas where the primer coat was showing, especially on the wheel well moldings. Paint is chalky..."

"The truck sits outside; the sun and smog had taken a toll. It needed repainting.Had it repainted last July and repainted this June under warranty."

"Paint on window trim showing sun damage; fading and cracking. Vehicle has been garaged daily for most of this 15 year life. Bolt covers on windshield wipers have come loose and come off the vehicle during movement."

"Clear coat is disappearing on the top of cab."

"Top faded."

"Factory paint and finish did not hold its' appearance. Full disclosure, the vehicle is not in a garage."

"peeling fading paint"

"Top fading and clear coat"

"Clear coat failed. Had roof tom repainted years ago. Now the hood clear coat has pealed off. 14 year old Truck. Many cars of that era had the same issue. Mine stayed on longer than most. Last Toyota a 1991 did not have this issue."

"minor chips - but many a few small rust spots underbody & frame surface rust"

"Paint on this model Toyota, like most of their entire product line, is poor. Does not hold up to sun. OEM paint on these vehicles is very thin and substandard. I have pits in the paint all over the hood and the paint over the whole truck is very dull"

"White paint is chalking - been this way for at least 5 years"

"chipping has become a problem on hood and sides"

"paint faded, clear coat peeling, rust started"

"On the hood, there are three places that look like blisters, but I'm not sure that would be the actual term, since the paint was applied ten years back. under the blisters, there is primer, so the blisters don't go all the way to the steel"

"Alloy wheels seem to have an issue with paint bubbling and peeling. Toyota never acknowledged the issue. Same issue on same year Corolla alloys"

"paint peeling off bottom and side of one rear door"

"Clear coat is fading and chipping away, Toyota will not cover"

"The top is fading and turning a grey color. the paint overall is very thin and scratches very easily , when it is just barely touched by and thing, bushes etc"

"All surfaces that face upward like hood, roof, wheel flares etc. are all extremely sun faded and peeling. Side walls and quarter panels that face outward are not as bad but do seem to scratch easier now"

"the horses also chewed on the tundra so it has spots of rust and paint is scraped off"

"lots of rust, applied rust preventive and fluid film to arrest the problemand prolong the life"

"Caused by sun damage. Hood and roof were affected."

"Underbody frame very rusty"

"The rust is horrible. The only areas that do not have rust are the painted body areas. Had Toyota "Rust Remedy" applied several years ago which has been successful, but only for the very limited items to which it was applied (i.e., the frame). Front and rear suspension horribly rusted (had to replace sway bar connecting rods which had rusted so badly they broke off), wheel rims are rusted (silver coating is mostly gone), emergency brake cable and parts rusted and eventual froze in the "on" posit"

"Truck frame was rusted , covered & repaired by recall. Dealer refused to cover rusted truck bed floor which is rusting from the bottom up. Both the bottom of bed and frame had the same problem, insufficient under coating for the NE of the U.S"

"Recall for frame Rusting"

"few spots 1/8 to 1/4 inch bubbled and rusted, areas denuded of paint on top rusted"

"rust on one side of body near rear door"

"Frame, major driveline, brake lines etc are rusted to a point of concern. Toyota recalled the truck and sprayed undercoating only to have half or better wash/wear off inside of a years time. Truck is mechanically sound but I don't think it will outl"

"Toyota. Recall for body corrosion, they took great care of recovering frame and underbody of recall"

"Rust spots showing up in box where box meets frame"

"brakes are always spongy. Long stopping distance, especially when towing. Not sure exactly why they failed"

"Toyota Safety Recall - Passenger side airbag inflator assembly had to be replaced. No cost to me"

"The brake pedal was very mushy. Felt like I wasn't able to stop"

"One caliper needed to be replaced due to wear."

"passenger side front caliper froze, prematurely wearing out brake pads and rotor"

"2 REPLACEMENTS BOTH SIDES IN 150000KM...CAUSE OF VIBRATION...CALIPER FAILURE IN BOTH OCCASIONS"

"Frozen caliper scored the rotor"

"One front caliper would not totally release causing a shimmy - this did not happen continuously"

"Master Cylinder was leaking through the shaft and entire break actuator and housing had to be replaced because it was not sold as separate parts or halves. Very expense and so rare there was only 1 part in entire city of Portland of 1M or more people. New part is noisy when breaks are applied even though supposedly and OEM Toyota part. Breaks completely failed one time after replacement but re-pressurized lucky on next use. Was told several time these parts never failed and thus not needing to stock, but if that was the case, why at 85,000 miles did this part fail on my truck? Can just tell the truth, there are spare parts for reasons, making up stories on required report seem short sighted on maintenance personnel for a 10 year old truck."

"master cylinder failed"

"Brake booster failed at Master Cylinder seal. Booster was full and draining fluid through breather hose into engine block. VERY EXPENSIVE to fix. Needed booster AND master cyl. not available separately even though MC was working to spec"

"Brake fluid was found to be low. Diagnosis was master cylinder re and re was around $1200.00. Dealer indicated this is a very rare fault with Tundra he'd seen this just a handful of times"

"Brake fluid was leaking from the brake master cylinder into the brake booster. Previously, my Tundra never required brake fluid. I reported problem to my dealer, mechanic discovered leak between master cylinder and brake booster. Replaced entire unit"

"Master Cylinder leaked, Toyota only sells the complete Brake System Unit of three parts for about $1700; ended up getting used Master Cylinder for about $300"

"This was the first time I had to replace any brake component in approximately 214000 miles!"

"routine break wear was accelerated because a caliper froze"

"normal brake wear"

"parking brake hinge link arm at wheel hub had sever rust but only minor deterioration. cleaned up the parts and restored to operating condition without needing new parts."

"After adjustment (which seems too often) the pedal must be pushed down farther and farther over a short time period."

"had to replace emergency brake because it was frozen. Rear emergency pivot had to be replaced. Indicated this has happen quite a few times from vehicles brought in to tell dealership"

"Emergency brake does not release enough on left rear wheel so causes vibration and hot brakes. The bell crank pivot is too tight and will not allow pivot to work easily. Have to reach under and pull left cable to release pressure after each use! M"

"Parking brake bell crank at rear wheels is made of poor steel that rusts readily and the mechanism binds and becomes fused. I need to remove, clean and rebuild every-other year"

"rear brakes would not completely release after releasing parking brake"

"Rear brake drum job resurface drums; all other parts replaced with new. Within two weeks getting squeaks in rear brakes typically when backing up. Returned to dealer, made some adjustments but did not find significant problem. Squeal returned within a month but I drove several months until next service. Now had to replace the drums as out of round; problem solved."

"This is the first time in 170,000 the rotar and drums"

"IN EACH OCCURRENCE OF THE PROBLEM THE DEFECTIVE CALIPERS DAMAGED THE ROTORS"

"The brake rotors for this vehicle do not appear to be large enough for the size of the truck, resulting in rotor wear more frequent than should be. I have had Toyota service techs, tell me that in subsequent years, Toyota added larger rotors to their Tundra trucks"

"Rough stopping"

"Scored by frozen caliper"

"warped ...needed to be turned"

"premature wear causing steering vibration"

"After installing new rotor, caliper pads on left front it chirps. Have spent considerable money but with no results. Still chirps! All brakes were replaced but only left front chirps!"

"Several bushings repaired in Dec 2016 and again in March 2018."

"Both upper and lower bushing are worn to the extent that a front end alignment could not be properly done."

"steering box was leaking"

"Truck began to lose fluid when driven and eventually could not be driven at all. I thougght it needed a pwer stering unit but my local garage determined that it was a hose that was leaking under pressure. It was relaced and I have not had an issue since."

"Part of the power steering pump and hoses, i.e power steering fluid was leaking."

"costly. steering rack and steering lines all needed to be replaced. Everything underneath my truck is rusted or corroded"

"Had previously replaced the hoses and one of the hoses retails for $1,000 at Toyota."

"This is third time there have been p/s rleated problems and factory parts are much more expensive than aftermarket"

"Leak in hose"

"Struts had leaked oil for several years and finally had to be replaced. Truck was used for light-duty snow plowing."

"original front struts the bushings wore out"

"Truck has 267,000 miles. It was time"

"Vehicle only gets about 50,000 miles before needing new struts."

"It's a 14 year old truck. Normal wear and tear."

"After replacing all shocks on vehicle with recommended equipment a noticeable clunking noise could be heard when going over uneven terrain. Several mechanics indicated the shocks were installed properly. Noise still persists and is affecting handli"

"driver side strut is blown"

"At 130000 k the original shocks needed to be replaced. Can't complane about that!"

"time to replace"

"front shocks had to be replaced"

"broken leaf in rear spring"

"LF torsion bar link rusted through"

"HAD TO REPLACE A FRONT RIGHT TORSION BAR BECAUSE OF NORMAL WEAR"

"Seals on the linkage dry rotted and began to leak. This was causing loss of power steering fluid. Because of how the seals are installed, the repair requires replacement of the entire linkage."

"driver side sway bar link is broken"

"Vibration in steering wheel. Purchased new upper a-rms replaced all bushings shocks. Fixed toe in adjustment and bam no problem"

"worn out and needed to be replaced"

"See previous answer on alignment. The right front tire only lasts 3 or 4 thoUSnd miles before it is ruined"

"have a shop do the repair"

"All front end components had worn out due to age"