No longer second-class citizens, the best battery-powered electric mowers cut grass just as well as their gas counterparts. Battery mowers utilize rechargeable lithium-ion battery packs and are available in both push and self-propelled varieties. They are much easier to store and maintain than gas mowers, but their relatively short battery run times make them better suited to smaller yards. Our run times with battery mowers were generally 30 to 45 minutes, regardless of the size of the motor.

Pros: Most battery mowers cut a 20- or 21-inch swath, and their batteries are interchangeable with other outdoor power tools from the same brand. They also start with push-button ease, produce no exhaust emissions, and run more quietly than gas models. They don’t require oil changes or frequent tuneups.

Cons: They have a limited runtime—usually enough to cut 1⁄3 acre. Battery-powered self-propelled models use up to 20 percent of the battery charge to power the wheels, so you won’t be able to cut as much grass unless you buy larger or additional batteries. And they’re pricier than gas models, though you’ll recoup that cost over time.

Upkeep: Battery mowers require little upkeep beyond blade sharpening.

Best for: Yards smaller than ⅓ acre.

Tried-and-true gas-fueled mowers aren’t limited by rechargeable batteries and can cut much larger yards in one go. They come in both push and self-propelled varieties and usually cost less than their electric counterparts, though you might spend more in the long run on fuel and maintenance.

Pros: Most gas mowers cut a 21- or 22-inch swath, can handle long or thick grass and weeds, and can bag, side-discharge, and mulch clippings. They also cost less and run much longer than their battery-powered counterparts.

Cons: Gas mowers are noisy (use ear protection), produce emissions, and require more frequent maintenance.

Upkeep: Gas mowers require regular tuneups, oil changes, and blade sharpening.

Best for: Yards from ¼ to ½ acre.

These gas-powered machines can cut two to three times faster than simple push mowers, making them best suited for larger lawns. Models with hydrostatic transmissions are best suited for plows and other tool attachments.

Pros: Most models mow a 42- to 48-inch swath (though wide-deck models cut 54 inches or more in a single pass) and can bag, mulch, and side-discharge clippings. Steering them is easy and familiar because they use a wheel, just like a car. The best models have comfy, high-backed seats and make it easy to engage the blades and adjust your cutting height.

Cons: Bagging kits cost extra and tend to be expensive—a major reason the majority of tractor owners mow in side-discharge mode. And even today’s cleaner machines create exhaust emissions and require lots of storage space. And tractors have a wider turning radius and lower top speed than zero-turn-radius mowers.

Upkeep: Gas mowers require regular tuneups, oil changes, and blade sharpening.

Best for: Yards larger than ½ acre.

Think of these like souped-up tractors. Rather than a wheel, you control a zero-turn with a pair of levers—pushing one forward causes the mower to turn in place. They also have nimble handling and higher top speeds than tractors. All but one model in our ratings are gas-powered, and the best now cut as well as regular lawn tractors.

Pros: These are similar to the mowers landscapers use, with a rear engine and rear-wheel steering. They’re easy to maneuver around obstacles, such as trees and flower beds. Some new models have steering wheels. They can side-discharge, bag, and mulch clippings, and typically mow a 42- to 50-inch swath. Their nimble handling and high top speed make it easy to get across your property quickly.

Cons: ZTR models cost more than most tractors, and not all of them cut as well as tractors. Rear steering wheels can tear up grass during turns. They’re not well-suited for hilly properties because they can lose traction and be hard to control on slopes. Their lever controls also require practice. And while they offer a higher top speed, that won’t necessarily save you time—you’ll still want to go 3½ to 4 mph to get an even mow. Bagging kits can be pricey.

Upkeep: Gas engines require tuneups and oil changes. Electrics need at least blade sharpening.

Best for: Yards larger than 1⁄2 acre without too many hills.

Bridging the gap between walk-behind mowers and tractors, rear-engine riders are typically cheaper than tractors but don’t cut as well—or as quickly, because they have narrower decks, typically around 30 inches wide.

Pros: Many of the usual lawn-tractor behemoths require more storage space than you might have, but this type of rider is more compact. It’s also cheaper: Some start at $1,000, a few hundred dollars more than most of the best self-propelled mowers.

Cons: Even the top-scoring models won’t cut as well as some of the lowest-scoring tractors in our ratings. They also usually cut in 30-inch-wide swaths, more than a walk-behind mower, for sure, but far less than the 4 feet many lawn tractors will mow. Many have a jerky gear drive rather than the smooth hydrostatic drive on most tractors. We also found that those in our tests weren’t great at fully filling a bag. You also might not get higher-end features such as a high-back seat or cruise control.

Upkeep: Gas engines require regular tuneups and oil changes. Electrics need the blades sharpened annually.

Best for: Yards from ½ to 1 acre.