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    How to choose the best interior paint

    But not all finishes shine: A $100 paint fell flat in our tests

    Published: January 2014

    Find Ratings

    It took just one coat of Behr to cover old paint as thoroughly as two of Fallow & Ball.

    Picking a paint has become harder than just picking a color (as if that wasn't confusing enough). Relying on past experiences isn't a good way to pick a brand because paints are frequently reformulated, which changes their performance.

    Consumer Reports tested 67 paints, including a pricey import from England known for its colors, to see how well they hide old paint, how well they hold up to stains and scrubbing, and the smoothness of the finish.

    In fact, we've toughened our tests by applying water- and oil-based stains to painted panels. Most paints faltered in our new staining tests. Lowe's Valspar and Olympic satin finishes didn't make our recommended list this time around. If Lowe's is your go-to store for paint, use those paints in low-traffic areas.

    Though its colors were lovely, Farrow & Ball was the worst at hiding old paint. It took two coats of the $105 eggshell finish in white to do what the top-rated Behr satin did in one. (The terms "eggshell" and "satin" are used interchangeably by companies to describe paints with some sheen.) More coats mean more money and time, and the Farrow & Ball paint isn't self-­priming, unlike most we tested. The eggshell and gloss paints also left a rough, grainy finish and lost most of their sheen after cleaning, though both resisted stains well.

    And we found that the color wasn't that hard to match. We sent a secret shopper to three Home Depots with a panel painted with Farrow & Ball's Lulworth Blue Estate Eggshell, $105 per gallon. He came back with three gallons of the top-scoring Behr Premium Plus Ultra Satin, $34, in a blue created by computerized, color-matching technology. We applied the Behr to panels and compared it with a panel painted with Farrow & Ball. The Behr paints were about 1 percent lighter, according to our colorimeter, a difference that we couldn't see.

    How to choose

    White and other neutrals are in style again. And warm grays are hot, too, according to color experts. You can find in­spir­ation at the manufacturers' Pinterest boards and websites, where you can compare color palettes or play with tools that let you upload a photo of your room and paint it virtually before picking up a brush. Here's what else to consider:

    Pick the finish. "More people are using the same color for walls and trim, without much contrast in sheen," says Leslie Harrington, a color expert. "This creates a clean line and redirects your eye to other things in the room—the furniture, art." Semigloss isn't a must for trim. Many eggshell and satin paints have become much better at standing up to scrubbing, according to our latest interior paint tests. Flat paints are better than eggshell at hiding imperfections because they don't reflect light. But flats are the least stain-resistant, so they aren't a great choice for busy rooms.

    Nail the perfect color. Light affects color significantly. So once you've zeroed in on a hue, consider buying three samples: the color you're drawn to, and a shade lighter and one darker. Paint a sample next to a window and in an area that's dark, viewing the colors in daylight and at night, with the lights on and off.

    Hiring a contractor

    You've talked with several contractors, compared bids, and checked references and insurance. Before you sign on the dotted line, make sure your contract includes the following details:

    Standard details

    • Painters usually move furniture and remove mirrors, art, and window treatments. Then they do surface prep, including removing dust and grime, filling holes, patching, spackling, and dulling a high-gloss surface if needed.
    • Paint brand, color, sheen, and number of gallons and coats required should be specified for each room and surface, noting whether a primer is needed.
    • The cost of labor and paint should be stated as well as the time needed to complete the job.
    • Keep some leftover paint for touchups.

    Hammer out these points

    • Make sure your expectations match the contractor's regarding the final smoothness of the surface and the amount of prep work, especially if your walls or ceilings are rough or cracked. The best way to do that is to show him what you want.
    • If you suspect that your old paint contains lead, which was banned from paint in 1978, make sure that the contractor and her crew are certified by the Environmental Protection Agency to safely remove lead paint and that they take steps to minimize exposure and contamination.
    • Ask for the crew members' names and what time they will arrive and leave daily.
    • Insist that the company's owner or foreman review the job at the end of each day, and meet with him halfway through a weeklong project to discuss any concerns.
    • Add a  "what if" clause. "Problems might come up that weren't included in the estimate, like cracks hidden by art or water damage that seemed slight but isn't," explains Debbie Zimmer of the Paint Quality Institute. "So the contract should specify that the painter contacts you before doing any work with a plan to address the problem and costs."
    • Find out where paint, tools, and ladders will be stored at the end of a workday. Don't use the garage if there's a chance that the temperature will drop below 32° F, because paint can freeze and form a film, altering its performance.
    • Determine the warranty.

    How to be a power painter

    Rico DePaz in the paint lab

    Rico DePaz has tested paints in our lab for eight years and applies his knowledge every time he paints his home. Here are his answers to three common questions:

    Q. What's the best way to cover dark colors?
    A. It's easier than it used to be. Start with a self-priming paint that scored Very Good or better in our hiding tests. These brands' white paint can completely cover black paint with just two coats. Don't spread the paint too thin. Only cover an area that's 2x2 feet every time you load the paint roller. If you think you've missed a spot, wait until the paint dries to touch it up, or you'll end up messing up the paint surrounding the spot.

    Q. Brush or roller?
    A. Both. Use a brush for corners, around trim, and the line where the ceiling and wall meet. For better control and a uniform finish, use a roller for surfaces bigger than 2x2 feet, even if the wall or ceiling has imperfections. Foam rollers 4 to 6 inches wide are good for painting doors.

    Q. How do I paint a nice straight line?
    A. Taping takes time, but it's worth it. FrogTape's Delicate Surface, $6 to $9 per roll, left a very sharp line and was very easy to remove in our tests. Use a sash brush with a tapered tip. The bristles are cut at a diagonal and trimmed, creating a narrow tip that gives you better control. Remove tape as soon and as carefully as possible after painting.

    Editor's Note:

    This article also appeared in the March 2014 issue of Consumer Reports magazine.



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