Ford Escape Change Vehicle

“Paint chipping off around fenders/wheel wells resulting in rust”

“Actually rusting since under new buyer warranty. Ford claimed not bad enough to repair”

“Paint peels off around rear wheel wells. Have seen other Escapes on the road with the same problem. Ford dealer refuses to fix it”

“Wheel well paint flocking off both back wells”

“Black paint is peeling off both passenger door tops next to window glass or roof”

“Paint peeled off around both rear wheel wells with no signs of rust. Almost every escape of this vintage has same issue”

“The rear driver side panel was peeling just above the wheel well. This is an issue that we've seen in 4-5 2008 Escapes this year”

“Rust over each rear wheel well”

“Rust and paint peeling over both rear wheel well edges”

“Rear wheel area bubbled”

“Ford told us there is a problem with this model, where water flows from the sunroof down the right back of the car, causing rust. They were aware of it, but were of little to no help”

“Right rear wheel well rusted, fixed, re-rusted third time”

“starting to rust on rear fenders”

“rear panels rusting”

“We are having an unusual amount of rust issues around the wheel wells, doors, and back latch area. We've been told by repair persons, that the steel used in the 2008 models was inferior”

“Top of both rear wheel wells are rusting out and paint is peeling”

“I have heard my problem is peculiar to 2008 Escapes with sunroof. The rear wheel wells are severely rusted, due to pooling of water that traverses from the sunroof channel down through a port inside the top of the wheel wells”

“We recently discovered an area of rust around both rear wheel arches. A reputable body shop confirmed that it has rusted through not only the outer skin, but the inner sheet metal, as well. $2000 to repair. UNACCEPTABLE for a 2008 vehicle!”

“Paint flaking off over rear wheel wells. Small issue, but shows badly. Fixed with Tremclad paint!”

“Unexpected rear panel rust”

“rear wheel openings”

“premature rust in wheel wells”

“Rust around both rear wheelwells”

“Rear fender lips”

“rust around the rear wheel wells”

“Rust around fenders”

“Rust in rear wheel wells, both sides”

“rust on rear wheel wells”

“The rear wheel body edge on both sides has started rusting through in just one spot just past the top of the rear tire. There must be some feature that is causing the corrosion to occur at just this one spot. No other paint peeling or body rust is”

“Rust started in 2014 at the top of both rear wheel wells. First as bubbles under the paint, now broken through.”

“I wanted to undercoat the Escape when I bought it but the salesman talked me out of it. I will not do that again. Could cost $3000+ to fix rust on both rear wheel wells!!!”

“Rust around rear wheel housings, common area so I am told”

“Both wheel wells rusted/blistered. Had body repaired both wheel wells and rust/blisters returned less than a year later”

“Bottom of each door rusted, one severely. Had to grind off the rust, soak rags in oil force into drip grove to stop the rust, repaint bottom of doors”

“Over the rear wheel wells, on both sides”

“Created a load knocking noise going over even slight height variations in the road at low speed”

“lower control arm busing and ball joints were worn causing uneven tire wear and alignment isues”

“noisy suspension parts replaced”

“a bushing on the right side had worn out and it was easily replaced”

“again, had to have those fixed. Surprise!”

“rear shocks were leaking, but they were very old and should have been replaced earlier”

“Needed to replace them cost $700”

“Rough ride, uncomfortable, very stiff after an hour's driving. Very noisy as well. In addition to road noise hear a lot of squeaking noises from body or frame”

“got odd sounds, and a local repair shop said that it wasn't the alignment. It's a great shop. Had to spend almost $1K to get the front end fixed”

“The Ford mechanic told us the front end sway bars were showing signs of cracks and needed to be replaced soon”

“Control arm problems at 60,000 miles?! I live in Cleveland and tried to buy american (Ford). Pretty disappointed. Like the styling and the handling. Worry about reliability though”

“universal joint on steering shaft wore out”

“Steering coupler. Part is pretty small, not complex and costed almost $300. Seemed excessive”

“Power steering part of the steering linkage was snapping when the car was turned to the right. Had a ford dealer in Florida try to fix it and they thought it was something else. Had local Ford dealer look at it and they found the electrical part of”

“A flexible coupling in the steering shaft near the firewall was partly broken and had to be replaced. Never had such a failure on any vehicle we have ever owned in 40 years, many with well over 250k miles on them”

“it felt like i had no steering”

“U joint in sterring column broke and had to be replaced. also: electronic power steering sensor had to be reprogrammed (would slip out of power steering when driving)”

“had to replace both sections of linkage under the dash as well as the entire steering assembly due to malfunction that Ford refused to do a recall on initially. Finally did recall after I spent $1500 to replace everything”

“Shouldn't have to have steering issues with a relatively new car”

“steering column and sensor replaced as per recall from Ford”

“Electronic system failed. Replaced steering column. Repairs worth $1500 CAD”

“steer wheel drive shaft was defective”

“front left and front right wore out/broke at different times but within a year of each other. After about 115,000 miles”

“Feb 16, 17 - 137,874 miles 1) R&R driver & Passenger side Stabilizer Bar Ctl. Links (aka Sway Bar links) causing thumping noise/rattle. 2) R&R Driver-side, Outer Tie Rod ends. Mar 7, '17-139,395 miles - Same thumping noise from front end driver side that was observed 3 weeks ago. Sway bar link bolt was loose causing noise. Tightened bolt”

“replaced left front outer tie rod end”

“This is the second time that I've had the front end components replaced. The problem was loose steering, vibration and wandering”

“same as other loweer control arm bushings”

“Know previous owner, bearings have been replace before and I have replace 2 on the last year”

“uneven and wavey ride tires wore fast”

“Would not call it a leak but had alarms going off relating to the power steering. Turns out it was a wire that was exposed touching the frame that was setting off the alarms”

“Had major vibration and ultimately lost power steering. The entire steering column had to be replaced. Fortunately, it was a recall, due to electronic power steering problem”

“Steering wheel vibrated after reprogramming of steering control module. Ford dealership replaced the entire steering column”

“tone rings on front wheels required replacing. Put the SUV into limp mode on an Interstate”

“has failed numerous times”

“The Light comes on.....nothing is wrong”

“cracked sending ring. this is the second one I had to have replaced”

“The ABS system was the "failure" indicated by the failure of the master cylinder”

“A part of the braking system broke in the front wheel. This caused the ABS to apply itself, even when there was no reason to. There was no clear reason given for the part to break, no cause, it just broke at random. Our mechanics were puzzled”

“ABS light in constantly on dash due to electrical issue”

“Replaced abs sensor ring twice in life of vehicle”

“Tire sensor Fault which randomly comes on then goes off. This is the TPS system”

“Have had to replace them TWICE during the last 10 years! Very expensive repairs!”

“Normal brake repair on front but had problems on the right and had to redo everything as it was off”

“The master cylinder went out, costing approximately $4500”

“parking brake would not release fully due to rusted-out wheel, suspension and brake components, expensive to repair”

“Took the car to Brake Check for routine brake repair and had to take it back 10 months later for the exact same thing. We believe it is an issue with their parts and labor and not the actual vehicle. Prior to that, we had driven the vehicle for 3 years and not had any issues. We have not changed our driving habits and should not have needed to replace the brakes a second time so quickly”

“Unusual wear caused further inspection to detect causes (other defects in caliper/rotor mechanisms) which were effectively fixed by the dealer under warranty. Could have been a safety issue if undetected”

“It just seemed like the brakes were always making noise”

“Driving had a noise when braking then out of blue the rotor and brake broke -- took 2 tries to fix correctly”

“brakes seem to last 25-30% less time than expected”

“Began to feel pulsation in front disc brakes. Rotors were out-of-round and could not be trued by machining and had to be replaced”

“Regen braking wears the pads and rotors quickly”

“Vibration when breaking”

“Wife takes vehicle to all schedule maintenance (@ ford dealer) and no mention of rotors needing to be replaced, then we noticed car pulling badly to the left and noise when braking (more during hard braking), One front rotor was warped badly!!!!”

“rear brakes make a squeaking/crunching noise. Came back even after new brakes were installed”

“I have had the car back numerous time to have the problem fixed and keeps recurring”

“It was just normal brake wear. Brake pedal got a little soft when putting on brake”

“noisy brakes”

“Just normal wear and tear”