Ford Escape Change Vehicle

"tone rings on front wheels required replacing. Put the SUV into limp mode on an Interstate"

"has failed numerous times"

"The Light comes on.....nothing is wrong"

"cracked sending ring. this is the second one I had to have replaced"

"The ABS system was the "failure" indicated by the failure of the master cylinder"

"A part of the braking system broke in the front wheel. This caused the ABS to apply itself, even when there was no reason to. There was no clear reason given for the part to break, no cause, it just broke at random. Our mechanics were puzzled"

"ABS light in constantly on dash due to electrical issue"

"Replaced abs sensor ring twice in life of vehicle"

"Tire sensor Fault which randomly comes on then goes off. This is the TPS system"

"brake pads keep wearing out."

"Could not drive the vehicle because every time you tried to move, the traction control wold kick in and apply braking to 3 out of the 4 tires. Problem was a faulty ABS sensor on the drivers side rear."

"broken tone ring and axel"

"ABS, Brake, and Regenerative brakeing warning light intermittently go on. When this happens the brake pedal softens and brakeing ability is reduced. Evidently this is a common problem with hybrid Escapes. Very expensive to repair. These vehicles should be recalled."

"Pedal went to floor after minor wheel skid on wet gravel activated ABS. Was able to pump it back up but required costly repair."

"Drivers side brake locked up."

"The front wheel (DS) ABS tone wheel ring collected moisture which caused corrosion. The corrosion expanded the ring causing it to crack. This faulted the ABS system. Check Engine light and ABS light both illuminated."

"broken tone ring affected all 3 areas"

"Pedal went to floor after ABS event. Replacing master cylinder did not fix. It was the ABS control unit that failed"

"Front ABS tone ring failure"

"calipers locked up"

"this caliper failure was not routine wear It was a defective part"

"Normal brake repair on front but had problems on the right and had to redo everything as it was off"

"Caliper was just worn out and the rotors were also replaced."

"Have had to replace them TWICE during the last 10 years! Very expensive repairs!"

"Not stopping as it should."

"The master cylinder went out, costing approximately $4500"

"The HCU losses pressure"

"2008 hybrid escape Hydraulic Control Unit was failing periodically causing the brakes to not have any pressure when pressed on the brakes. The cost to repair unit $4000."

"routine brake wear"

"Notice noise and did no feel like vehicle was stopping as smooth. Took to dealer check out breaks and realized it was time to change pads or whatever was necessary. Resolved within weeks of discovery and repair."

"Just had breaks checked & no problems"

"Had the pads replaced twice. I am hard on brakes though. They were grinding each time."

"It was just normal brake wear. Brake pedal got a little soft when putting on brake"

"noisy brakes"

"Just normal wear and tear"

"Replaced front brake pads & refinish rotors. Replace driver side caliper due to 9/14 cross threaded caliper bolt stripping caliper bracket holes."

"it was time to get new brakes. brakes don't last forever. no big deal"

"parking brake would not release fully due to rusted-out wheel, suspension and brake components, expensive to repair"

"Unusual wear caused further inspection to detect causes (other defects in caliper/rotor mechanisms) which were effectively fixed by the dealer under warranty. Could have been a safety issue if undetected"

"It just seemed like the brakes were always making noise"

"Driving had a noise when braking then out of blue the rotor and brake broke -- took 2 tries to fix correctly"

"brakes seem to last 25-30% less time than expected"

"Took the car to Brake Check for routine brake repair and had to take it back 10 months later for the exact same thing. We believe it is an issue with their parts and labor and not the actual vehicle. Prior to that, we had driven the vehicle for 3 years and not had any issues. We have not changed our driving habits and should not have needed to replace the brakes a second time so quickly"

"Vibration when breaking"

"Wife takes vehicle to all schedule maintenance (@ ford dealer) and no mention of rotors needing to be replaced, then we noticed car pulling badly to the left and noise when braking (more during hard braking), One front rotor was warped badly!!!!"

"Rotors were worn out and replaced."

"Tech found during 150,000 mile vehicle inspection that front brakes are at 4mm. Front brakes were replaced and rotors refinished. Tech disassembled driver side caliper & found caliper bracket bolt holes are stripped. Caliper bracket & caliper bolts were replaced at no charge because this service center had replaced these items in Sept 2014."

"Began to feel pulsation in front disc brakes. Rotors were out-of-round and could not be trued by machining and had to be replaced"

"Regen braking wears the pads and rotors quickly"

"rear brakes make a squeaking/crunching noise. Came back even after new brakes were installed"

"I have had the car back numerous time to have the problem fixed and keeps recurring"

"the squeaking let me know that I needed new brakes. this is normal.. no big deal"

"Bushings wore causing clicking noise and then abs light came on indicating a malfunction"

"Created a load knocking noise going over even slight height variations in the road at low speed"

"lower control arm busing and ball joints were worn causing uneven tire wear and alignment isues"

"noisy suspension parts replaced"

"a bushing on the right side had worn out and it was easily replaced"

"Power steering didn't work"

"About a year ago a leak developed in a metal pipe from the pump to the rack due to corrosion"

"Would not call it a leak but had alarms going off relating to the power steering. Turns out it was a wire that was exposed touching the frame that was setting off the alarms"

"Struts have worn out in front and back. Need to have replaced."

"Rough ride, uncomfortable, very stiff after an hour's driving. Very noisy as well. In addition to road noise hear a lot of squeaking noises from body or frame"

"Replaced - as expected ,considering the mileage"

"again, had to have those fixed. Surprise!"

"rear shocks were leaking, but they were very old and should have been replaced earlier"

"Needed to replace them cost $700"

"Control arm problems at 60,000 miles?! I live in Cleveland and tried to buy american (Ford). Pretty disappointed. Like the styling and the handling. Worry about reliability though"

"got odd sounds, and a local repair shop said that it wasn't the alignment. It's a great shop. Had to spend almost $1K to get the front end fixed"

"The Ford mechanic told us the front end sway bars were showing signs of cracks and needed to be replaced soon"

"Steering linkage developed a groan that turned into a squeak. There is also a shimmy at speed."

"Power steering part of the steering linkage was snapping when the car was turned to the right. Had a ford dealer in Florida try to fix it and they thought it was something else. Had local Ford dealer look at it and they found the electrical part of"

"A flexible coupling in the steering shaft near the firewall was partly broken and had to be replaced. Never had such a failure on any vehicle we have ever owned in 40 years, many with well over 250k miles on them"

"it felt like i had no steering"

"U joint in sterring column broke and had to be replaced. also: electronic power steering sensor had to be reprogrammed (would slip out of power steering when driving)"

"had to replace both sections of linkage under the dash as well as the entire steering assembly due to malfunction that Ford refused to do a recall on initially. Finally did recall after I spent $1500 to replace everything"

"Shouldn't have to have steering issues with a relatively new car"

"steering column and sensor replaced as per recall from Ford"

"Electronic system failed. Replaced steering column. Repairs worth $1500 CAD"

"steer wheel drive shaft was defective"

"Ware in rack center position."

"1) R&R driver & Passenger side Stabilizer Bar Ctl. Links (aka Sway Bar links) causing rattle. 2) R&R Driver-side, Outer Tie Rod ends. Same thumping noise from front end driver side that was observed 3 weeks ago. Sway bar link bolt was loose causing noise. Tightened bolt."

"When turning the steering wheel while not moving there is loud clicking from the front of the vehicle. If moving the clicking is mostly gone."

"2008 ford hybrid steering link was rusted to the point it was making plenty of noise when turning steering"

"Rebuilt - as expected ,considering the mileage"

"Excessive play in rack causing rattle at slow speeds on dirt roads."

"universal joint on steering shaft wore out"

"Steering coupler. Part is pretty small, not complex and costed almost $300. Seemed excessive"

"There was a recall on the steering wheel column."

"Had major vibration and ultimately lost power steering. The entire steering column had to be replaced. Fortunately, it was a recall, due to electronic power steering problem"

"Steering wheel vibrated after reprogramming of steering control module. Ford dealership replaced the entire steering column"

"It's an AWD and I could only reduce the vibration when I removed the drive shaft to the back wheels. I had the drive shaft balanced and still same issue. I leave the drive shaft off now all the time for driving. It's not a primary vehicle."

"As soon as I noticed a strange sound and jerkiness, I took my car in. it was fixed quickly and didn't cost too much."

"This is the second time that I've had the front end components replaced. The problem was loose steering, vibration and wandering"

"1) Stabilizer Bar Control Link-Remove & Replace both due to rattle from front wheels. 2) Tie Rod &/or Ends-Remove & Replace - Outer, Driver side 3) Wheel Speed ABS Sensor-Remove & Replace - ABS dash light remained on, made noise and vibrates-one side. Wheel Speed ABS Sensor replacement was reading but tech noticed it was dropping out of scanner. Came back to clean the tone ring. While cleaning it tech noticed it was loose. While wiping it down it broke free from CV Axle. 4) Right Front Axle shaft assembly-Remove & Replace"

"front left and front right wore out/broke at different times but within a year of each other. After about 115,000 miles"

"Feb 16, 17 - 137,874 miles 1) R&R driver & Passenger side Stabilizer Bar Ctl. Links (aka Sway Bar links) causing thumping noise/rattle. 2) R&R Driver-side, Outer Tie Rod ends. Mar 7, '17-139,395 miles - Same thumping noise from front end driver side that was observed 3 weeks ago. Sway bar link bolt was loose causing noise. Tightened bolt"

"replaced left front outer tie rod end"

"same as other loweer control arm bushings"

"uneven and wavey ride tires wore fast"

"should go back to the old way of mounting bearings instead of making everything complicated and exspensive"

"Know previous owner, bearings have been replace before and I have replace 2 on the last year"

"Paint chipping off around fenders/wheel wells resulting in rust"

"Actually rusting since under new buyer warranty. Ford claimed not bad enough to repair"

"Paint peels off around rear wheel wells. Have seen other Escapes on the road with the same problem. Ford dealer refuses to fix it"

"Wheel well paint flocking off both back wells"

"Black paint is peeling off both passenger door tops next to window glass or roof"

"Paint peeled off around both rear wheel wells with no signs of rust. Almost every escape of this vintage has same issue"

"The rear driver side panel was peeling just above the wheel well. This is an issue that we've seen in 4-5 2008 Escapes this year"

"Paint on B pilars peeled off on both sides--clearly a factory defect."

"Paint peeling from window posts. Poor pre-paint preparation."

"Rust started after owning it for about 6 years. Had to get it repaired more than once. Around rear wheel wells, bottom of doors and around hatch. Vehicle is kept in the garage. Had a 1998 ford explorer kept outdoors with less rust than this 2008 garage kept escape. More than 1 auto body repair person told me rust was a msjor issue with the 2008 models."

"I have severe rust of the rear passenger quarter panel and in the tailgate."

"Rust around the rear wheel wells both sides."

"Rust has started to dissolve every area of the vehicle, especially anywhere there is a seam or opening in the metal. Around the door handles has begun to rust, around the sunroof, windshield, etc. The bottom of the hatch is nearly gone, and the rear fender wells are dissolving both on the inside and outside. The rear fender wells are especial of concern as the rear struts rely on them to support the back end of the vehicle."

"Ford told us there is a problem with this model, where water flows from the sunroof down the right back of the car, causing rust. They were aware of it, but were of little to no help"

"Right rear wheel well rusted, fixed, re-rusted third time"

"starting to rust on rear fenders"

"rear panels rusting"

"We are having an unusual amount of rust issues around the wheel wells, doors, and back latch area. We've been told by repair persons, that the steel used in the 2008 models was inferior"

"Top of both rear wheel wells are rusting out and paint is peeling"

"I have heard my problem is peculiar to 2008 Escapes with sunroof. The rear wheel wells are severely rusted, due to pooling of water that traverses from the sunroof channel down through a port inside the top of the wheel wells"

"We recently discovered an area of rust around both rear wheel arches. A reputable body shop confirmed that it has rusted through not only the outer skin, but the inner sheet metal, as well. $2000 to repair. UNACCEPTABLE for a 2008 vehicle!"

"Paint flaking off over rear wheel wells. Small issue, but shows badly. Fixed with Tremclad paint!"

"Unexpected rear panel rust"

"rear wheel openings"

"premature rust in wheel wells"

"Rust around both rear wheelwells"

"Rear fender lips"

"rust around the rear wheel wells"

"Rust around fenders"

"Rust in rear wheel wells, both sides"

"rust on rear wheel wells"

"The rear wheel body edge on both sides has started rusting through in just one spot just past the top of the rear tire. There must be some feature that is causing the corrosion to occur at just this one spot. No other paint peeling or body rust is"

"Rust started in 2014 at the top of both rear wheel wells. First as bubbles under the paint, now broken through."

"I wanted to undercoat the Escape when I bought it but the salesman talked me out of it. I will not do that again. Could cost $3000+ to fix rust on both rear wheel wells!!!"

"Rust around rear wheel housings, common area so I am told"

"Both wheel wells rusted/blistered. Had body repaired both wheel wells and rust/blisters returned less than a year later"

"Bottom of each door rusted, one severely. Had to grind off the rust, soak rags in oil force into drip grove to stop the rust, repaint bottom of doors"

"Over the rear wheel wells, on both sides"

"IN ORIGINAL MAUNFATURE, FORD USED A FOAM SEALANT BETWEEN BODY SHEET METAL AND REAR WHEEL WELL SHEET MEETAL THE FOAM HELD WATER IN ALLOWING RAMPANT RUST OUT OF REAR WHEEL WELL AREA. IT'S A FLEET-WIDE RUST OUT ISSUE THAT FORD DOES NOT WANT TO COVER IN ANY WARANTY FIX. IT COST ME ALMOST $2000 TO GET LARGE RUST OUT AREAS FIXED."

"rust developed from paint chips on the hood and at the bottoms of the doors and hatchback"

"Rust with paint cracking on rear wheel wells and bottom of tail gate."

"rust thru above both rear wheels on the quarter panels. every escape with this body style that I have seen has this problem"

"There is/was no excuse for the type of body rust (over the rear wheel wells) that 2008 Escapes have. None. (I'm a chemical engineer)"

"Rust over each rear wheel well"

"Rust and paint peeling over both rear wheel well edges"

"Rear wheel area bubbled"