Ford F-250

"The ABS warning light keeps coming on and the sensor has been changed along with the rest of the system."

"ABS dash light lit up as I was braking while exiting I-95- stayed lit for a few minutes; light turned off. Checked the PCM for DTCs- there were no trouble codes stored in memory."

"Left rear calipers locked up"

"It seems that the right rear caliper/disk brake system is subject to freeze up/lock up and leads to lockup and overheating of the brake and rotor. It is always the back left rear that gives me this trouble - has happened 5 times in the life of the truck"

"Rust/corrosion caused caliper hang-up,premature wear"

"brakes were dragging because the calipers would not release properly"

"right rear caliper loccked up. replaced with NAPA caliper by local repair shop"

"Caliper pistons sticking all the time"

"Calipers had to be replaced."

"One rear caliper and rotor replaced along with brake pads"

"rear calipers caused pads to drag on rotors and had to be replaced"

"Kept freezing up on rotors causing problems ie. replacement due to overheating and warping- Shop time , costly repair"

"Right rear brake locked up. Did same in 2015. Appears to be a very common problem on many years of F-250 & F-350 trucks. In doing extensive reading, the only thing in common with the right rear is that is where the exhaust is located. The plastic pistons in the caliper can warp and lock up causing the brake to overheat. The exhaust heat could also cause the caliper lube grease to thin out as it is only rated to 375 degrees for the synthetic grease. The caliper slider pins are lubricated along with 4, brake pad stainless steel slide brackets which have a light push back pressure when the brake pedal is released. I paid a shop in 2015. 3000 miles later I did the repair myself. The shop replaced the calipers and pads, but did not install new slide pins or the 4, brake pad stainless steel slide brackets. I could tell this from the parts list on my invoice. They would have had to purchase a $9 parts kit and I am sure if they had purchased it, they would have listed it and charged me for it. I also paid about $8 more for an upgraded caliper versus what the shop used. All I bought was from the same parts house the service shop uses. There are many YouTube videos on this and posts on various forums. I also found out that this is a problem, where you only repair the one wheel, unless the pads are badly worn on the Left rear. Also, i am a firm believer that you never replace just the pads, but also replace the calipers. Sincerely, A Shade Tree Mechanic for about 54 years."

"I had a rear caliper hang up one side which caused excessive rotor wear and a broken caliper piston."

"Right rear brake hangs up sometimes"

"calipers that had been replaced less than 12 months ago caused brake pads to drag and overheat"

"Had new brake pads, calipers and drums turned. The cause was normal wear."

"Parking brake was not worn out, but was badly rusted. Went to the floor when pushed, but would not hold when on an incline, etc"

"Totally worn out, makes noise and burns"

"Parking brake on passenger side is locked up."

"went through a new set of brakes in a month because of the calipers sticking"

"This vehicle seems to not have been deigned with adequate brake therefor the repair issue of brakes has been a constant.concern."

"The brakes were not worn out, but the whole assembly was rusted and fused together. The brakes were dragging, but would not engage completely. Spongy & ineffective"

"Possibly related to fuel cap problem or fuel system problem but not yet sure"

"We think there is something on the EGR, like a speck of dirt, that causes the check engine light to come on and not pass smog. We can't get chechens engine light to turn off for the past several years."

"EGR valve failure"

"Check engine light on. Fuel cap and fuel system noted in computer readout. Unable to figure out where problem actually is"

"fuel sending unit has intermittent fault which causes the fuel guage to indicate zero and a continuous check engine light. $1000 repair. have not had it repaired yet due to expense. failed at 50K miles"

"Fuel gauge is not accurate again a function of age and mileage. Just need to pay attention or spend the money to replace."

"for the past two summers the diesel engine became hard to restart once at operating temperature. Spent $1500 in 2016 and $2200 in 2017 on repairs. Diesel engines used to be simple and reliable, this one has too many sensors and modules. Probably my last diesel vehicle purchase"

"The high pressure spring on the fuel system failed, was allowing fuel leaks. Replaced it with a better version truck runs so much better"

"Diesel engine injectors need to be replaced (3)"

"Fuel rail pressure high code and would not pass smog test , aprox $1200 to repair"

"Had to replace 8 fuel injectors"

"I have been getting loss of boost codes from the computer. which has given me reduced power and lots of smoke from the exhaust. I have replaced the injection control regulator and the injection pressure sensor. the boots to the intercooler and stil"

"my 6.0liter diesel developed a long crank no start while hot problem. Which progressed to a no start anytime problem. First they replaced the high pressure oil tubes and gaskets. Then ICP and ICR regulators. And last i had to replace the high pressure oil pump which controls fuel injection."

"The fuel injectors had to be replaced due to the age and mileage, sadly for us because it is a diesel it wasn't cheap."

"The engine is a Diesel and the problem is with failed injectors (at least 2)"

"The O2 and the vacuum sensor for turbo were intermittent causing problem diagnosing issues. Multiple trips to dealer before issue resolved"

"I replaced the injector pressure sensor"

"Because of the typical 2005 catylist converter rerouting the exhaust back into the engine our engine over heated and need to be rebuilt"

"100% dealer serviced. In 80+k miles, the engine has been out of the truck three times for rebuild in an attempt to fix major oil leaks. Cost not covered by Ford, and very expensive to me. Not only will Ford not cover a clearly defective engine, th"

"Fuel injector locked open. Raw gas triggered a backfire that destroyed the catalytic converter and damaged the engine. Engine had to be replaced. $6,200."

"The head bolts installed by the engine manufacture were sub standard and stretched causing the head gaskets to blow. It was an expensive bill to repair it"

"The diesel engine has an oil cooler, oil pump, and filter feature for cooling the 15 quarts of oil. In the ford engine line there is a common problem of the cooler becoming plugged with sludge, causing overheating, head gasket blows. Cost $6000"

"EGR Cooler failed, caused head gasket failure, fouled the turbo. Installed after market EGR Cooler, replaced turbo, oil pump and water pump"

"EGR system, truck stopped unexpectantly, towed in and had to replace the computer, all of the "O" rings in the system"

"Head gasket started leaking. Take half the truck apart to remove head. Head was warped. Replace head & gasket with new. Toss head bolts & replace with aftermarket stud kit. Runs fine now but this engine has numerous other problems waiting to happen. International Harvester sold Ford a junk motor with the 6.0 diesel. And apparently everyone, except me, knew it's a junk motor. It's a work in progress. Hope to eventually make it bullet proof. Expensive engine to fix correctly. But when I'm done I still won't have $80,000 wrapped up in a pickup. New truck prices are silly"

"This is a normal failure item on the 6 liter diesel because of the way the engine was manufactured."

"I replaced cam phaser's and tension parts at a cost of 3000.00 no dealer help"

"Needs to be rebuilt or replaced"

"needed a new turbo charger installed"

"Had to replace turbo- it would studder, surge and stall out at low speeds or stopped. Had to shift to neutral to keep it running with slight accelerator pressure to keep RPMs up"

"2 turbo chargers in 12 months"

"waste gate was sticking due to poor manufacture of original turbo. There was no way for carbon to exit the turbo so it built up until the waste gate would not function properly. Ford would not do anything to compensate for this issue even though the original part was faulty and the engine had less than 40000 miles on it. It cost almost $2000 to repair. Because of the way I was treated by Ford corporate, I would possibly buy a different brand next time."