Honda Civic Change Vehicle

“The car made a strange sound when I turned sometimes”

“I've had multiple front end/suspensiom issues with this car since day one (among other things)...it's been two steps above a lemon”

“front suspension bushing disintegrating after 5 years, probably not designed to handle Arizona heat”

“The power steering assembly has leaked for a long time, we received estimates for a replacement reconditioned unit that was north of $400. Our mechanic advised us to buy power steering fluid with leak fix for Honda's, it has reduced the dripping”

“Rack and pinion assembly has small leak - will be very expensive to repair”

“The hoses where replaced”

“Just started becoming an issue with noise and handling around tight curves”

“Passenger rear shock was leaking oil - replaced with ease. Runs like a Ferrari now. Replaced at 175k miles”

“the shocks wore out in year 10 and had to be replaced”

“The rear struts were evidently faulty and they had to be replaced because they were causing uneven rear tire wear”

“They just needed to be replaced at this mileage for some reason. The person we bought the car from was a young girl so there was no sign of hard USge”

“At 32,000 miles had to replace the rear shock absorbers after replacing the rear brakes, all tires, and strut adjusters”

“Rear shocks started leaking much too soon. After replacing, I learned there had been a recall - which expired a few months before I discovered the problem (during my routine six-month maintenance). Ever since, right rear of car has been noisy whene”

“Replace rear shocks”

“Shocks worn out”

“Replaced driver rear shock due to leaking”

“I didn't really know about the shocks and struts, just took car in for inspection before a road trip. Found that shocks and struts needed replacing”

“Rear left spring broke in”

“due to uneven tire wear we replaced the rear control arms. Honda is aware of this defect but does not cover the repairs. We paid in full”

“The arms were bowing, needed to be replaced, causing uneven tire wear”

“rear wheels not have adequate adjustment for wide tires that were stock with the Civic Si”

“Uneven tire wear was due to problem with the rear struts. I had to have them replaced”

“Non-adjustable control arms were factory OEM. Tires rotated every 8,000 miles, but each set of tires would get extremely noisy after ca. 20,000 - 25,000 miles. After four sets of high quality tires, When buying inexpensive tires, I learned from Tech”

“uneven tire wear was caused by a ball joint problem that was covered by a Honda recall. Fixed by dealer, but to late for any tire replacement options”

“Rear suspension is not adjustable. Replaced the lower rear control arms with adjustable after market parts and the rear alignment/tire wear/ excessive road noise was solved”

“Had to rebuild the rear suspension. It chewed through a pair of tires in a period of a week. If you looked at the car from the rear it appeared to have the VW bug bowlegged stance. Cost was about $500 and had to buy tires again”

“Caster/camber can not be sufficiently adjusted on rear wheels and as a result there is more tire wear on inside of rear wheels”

“Went through 4 sets of good tires in less than 100,000 miles. Honda said it was because I failed to align properly, drove badly or selected bad tires. Paid for many alignments to no avail. Tire store finally told me there was an alignment problem”

“Uneven tire wear. Required replacement of read suspension control arms”

“The tire wear was due to the rear axle forging which was replaced by a recall”

“known manufacturers defect where the rear upper control arms on rear wheals are too short, causing tires to always have negative camber and tires wear on inside edge. I never got notice of class action suite or limited extended warranty. Now trying t”

“Faulty design of the rear suspension control arms, They were eventually replaced at no charge but it was a lot of hassle after years of uneven tire wear”

“Recall as a result of class action suit on 2006 and 2007 Civics”

“After an extended driving vacation with my family, my rear tires were badly cupped. Researching the problem, I found that 2007 Honda Civic's have had many complaints regarding the rear suspension that leads to premature tire wear (mine only have abou”

“dealers unwilling to change wrong rear control arms”

“This car is possibly one of the worst cars that Honda has produced I received a $2000 settlement over the suspension and the problem continues. It is one that CR dropped recommendation on. There are many more problems with this model”

“I had loud road noise for many months which the dealer said was tires. An independent shop that I used for general service said that one rear wheel bearing was bad. That cured the noise problem”

“Right front wheel bearing wore out at just less than 100000 miles. Diagnosed by tire shop and confirmed by Honda service”

“Digital fuel gauge keeps going blank. This is a recent intermittent problem”

“Electrical short with speedometer and fuel gauge”

“Backlighting of climate controls stopped working (as when headlights are on at night)”

“Computer that controls console display, lights, etc. completely died and had to be replaced. Honda repair service said they'd never encountered this problem in real life before”

“It appears all older cars have discolored headlights that limit their effectiveness. Impacts night time driving”

“Honda's headlights get foggy”

“We have put NUMEROUS headlights of numerous brand in this car. They just burn out unusually quick!”

“Paint peeling on roof”

“deteriation of head lamp covers”

“3rd brake light failed and had to be replaced”

“Center brake light failed for second time--a known, prevalent problem caused by cold solder connections”

“rear high level brake light went out [LED module] -- had to have the whole unit replace, which was a big project, and cost significantly more than you would expect. You can't just replace a bulb anymore!!”

“Taillight failure”

“center taillight module”

“A dashboard light for the climate control buttons stopped working. Does not bother me”

“The interior lights stopped working including the trunk lights no lights work inside trunk or car”

“Intermittent operation of interior dome light”

“Dash and radio lights intermittently turn off while driving. Bad connection somewhere”

“Light on shift console failed when car only three years old and still under full extended warranty I purchased at time of sale. Honda wouldn't cover repairs”

“Driver's side automatic door lock malfunction”

“keyless system stopped working”

“Electronic door lock on one door sometimes doesn't work”

“- low washer fluid light remains on - seatbelt airbag light intermittently on - there is an air bag recall that I have not yet been able to address”

“The warning system for leaving headlights on failed, plus the lock system was compromised. It turned out to be a burned fuse that was located in the door, after it caused several "lockouts" where I could not enter the car sand had to call emerg. roa”

“Airbag failure light goes on whenever anything is placed on the front passenger seat, yet airbag is fully functional”

“The wipers do not always shut off immediately. I have sometimes to jiggle the controls back and forth between intermittant, slow, fast, off, and on before they shut off completely. This does not always happen, but often enough to be a concern”

“Wipers worked in an erratic fashion - fast then slow; starting and stopping mid cycle. Wipers worked in a totaly erratic way. Honda paid for repair”

“Windshield wiper computer is dying”

“Wipers don't stop, stop in an upright position, and generally seem to have a mind of their own”

“Wiper control failed, erratic operation resulted”

“Problem with wiper switch and with wiper motoe”

“When engaged, wiper arms sometimes do not stop moving. It might take 5-10 passes before they stop. When they do stop, they often stop in the middle of the windshield”

“THE CAR ALARM GOES OFF FOR HOURS AT A TIME AND THE BATTERY HAS TO BE DISCONNECTED TO STOP IT”

“Starter had to be replaced”

“Had to be replaced”

“Car became hard to start. Slow turnover as if battery was drained.It was actually the starter binding up. Common problem with this car but people keep thinking it's a charging issue. Because it sounds like it, it's not, starter is bad. Cheap fix”

“STARTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED DUE TOO INTERNAL DEAD SPOT AND CAR WOULD NOT START”

“Car seemed like it had a bad battery sometimes. Very inconsistent. After 7 months of mystery and trips to several shops (including 2 battery replacements), it failed completely. Identified as starter. Had it replaced. Pricey due to Honda design”

“Starter went you at 59 thoUSnd miles. Cost was $450!! Honda would not cover any of the cost”

“Starter failed, had to buy a new one”

“Problem with starter over about 3 months before properly diagnosed and corrected by dealer”

“starter failed”

“Starter just failed. Replaced a new one”

“DEAD AND WOULD NOT ACCEPT CHARGE..HAD TO BE REPLACED”

“Battery replaced but likely not the problem which was starter”

“This was among the items dealer did not address. When done replacing engine block there were metal chips in coolant. Did not tell me battery was required; struts; shocks; many engine issues had been caused by dealer work that had to be fixed/correc”

“A system idiot light lit that I'd never seen before. The manual said I needed to go to the dealer immediately. I did and they replaced the battery which was under a ten year warranty”

“Vehicle performance started declining after forced IMA software upgrade several years ago. About 6 months ago, battery could no longer hold charge overnight. A few weeks ago Honda agreed to replace hybrid battery (probably with remanufactured one)”

“Hybrid battery failed - very expensive (about $3500) to replace”

“Right after the installation of the hybrid battery was good (31 mpg) for about 3 months since then it has gone back to the 26 mpg”

“The battery light indicator would go on and off, and we were told they couldn't do anything unless they saw it on. That went on for few months, where the ligh would go on but when we took it in, it was off. At some point it passes out of the extended”

“Honda has been refusing to correctly diagnose hybrid battery failure. Multiple trips to the dealer claimed starter battery or computer needed update. They waited until battery was past 100,000 miles (no warranty) to say hybrid battery was the problem”

“This replacement is the third IMA battery we have had on this car. It took several months to get Honda to agree to replace it. It three days to get the install done”

“Battery failed just before warranty was to expire”

“This is the second time the battery was replaced. The previous battery only got 40,000 mi on it before it failed. The dealer couldn't replace it initially because there was no error code, so corporate had to approve. They finally did after I told the”

“Failed when 8 years old, 135k miles. Cost $3k to replace, only dealership could service replacement”

“The hybrid battery has lost capacity and now discharges rapidly making it unsafe to drive. I have complained several times to the Honda Dealership but they refuse to do anything till the on board computer reveals a problem”

“Engine turned over but refused to start. Traced by dealer to a blown fuse”

“Cracked engine block do to Honda defect. Covered in Canada and Usa but not mine because I exported the car to the US from Canada. Honda is off my list for life”

“loss of power and check engine light constantly occurring. preliminary check showed severe loss of compression”

“I have a crack in the engine that was covered under a recall/warranty”

“Purchased new. Had all routine maintenance performed at Honda dealer. Experienced major failure of main bearings requiring a short block replacement at 57,000 miles (just in warranty). At 93,000 miles, the timing chain stretched or otherwise caused the valves to hit the pistons destroying the engine. Honda refused to assist in the cost of repairs which exceeds the value of the car. Two major engine failures in under 100,000 miles and Honda considers this acceptable ?!”

“My car refused to go into gear. Found that this was a problem for 2007 Hondas but it was not set up as a recall; didn't affect all 2007 Civics. However, Honda paid for enjine rebuild or repair - I don't know which they did”

“the engine block crack.But Honda had a recall on my engine so they gave me a new engine for FREE”

“The engine had to be replaced, but Honda covered it under warranty even though the car was 7 years old with 150k miles on it”

“The engine block cracked. Also this year model eats tires. I had to put in arms, at my cost after having to replace tires every 15,000 miles”

“The block developed a crack at speed which resulted in the engine over heating. The cracked block and resultant warped head were replaced under an unlimited miles, 7 or 8? year extended warranty. Towing also covered but was without a car for a week”

“Had a crack in the engine block but repairs were covered by extended (by Honda) warrantee. Apparently they've had problems with engine blocks from that model year”

“Head cracked required engine rebuild, still acting up. This car is a complete lemon”

“Another extended warranty...at 110000 miles the engine block cracked. covered but was out a car for 1.5wks”

“Cracked engine block after only 234000 km”

“At 108000 miles the engine leaked anti freeze. Honda replaced the engine but the car was never the same and I purchased a Subaru Impreza 2015 to replace it”

“The block cracked and was leaking.. this was covered under a recall for this model year”

“Engine cracked and was replaced by Honda. Was a recall problem”

“Some Honda Civic motors have a casting problem resulting in rapid coolant leaks and engine failure. I had this problem on my 2006 Civic a few years back where Honda replaced the motor under warranty, costing Honda ~$7500. Currently experiencing the s”

“Honda covered the cracked engine block in a recall”

“The engine developed a coolant leak through the side of the block at a casting seam. To Honda's credit, they gave me a new loaner to drive and installed an OEM short block. Probably influenced by bad auto publicity and judgments”

“Had to rebuild the engine as there was a head gasket failure”

“Received mailing from Honda re 2007-2011 models. Took in. Not explained engine had 2 parts. I repeated said "engine" Manager did't correct me. Asked if any problems occurred would they be corrected. Told yes.Not done. Took elsewhere. Major work req”

“Unexpected failure”

“CD play and doesn't eject from the player so I can't listen to CDs”

“Display screen was scratched horribly when I tried to dust it off - the dust just obliterated whatever material was used for the screen and made it almost unreadable”

“It goes in and out intermittently. The radio still works ( most of the time ) even when the display is off”

“Occurs in tandem with error message previously noted; GPS not functional”

“Radio button to switch between CD and Aux-in (MP3 player) broken. Radio must be pulled from dash and shipped to factory to repair. Takes 2-3 weeks. Prevents aux-in from working”

“Stereo doesn't stay on one station or mode. Will jump around cd, am, fm. Will pop and then not work at all until the car is restarted. The lights on the stereo and environment controls don't light up”

“All but one speaker was cracking or not producing sound. I replaced them all”

“The door speakers began to fail and eventually got to the point where they no longer work at all”

“Front two speakers cut out at first intermittently, and then entirely. All sound comes from rear speakers only”

“Front door speakers stopped working”

“Speakers are cheap and no sound from the front speakers any more”

“Front speakers come in and out mostly out no sound”

“The cruise control button broke and does not stay engaged”

“Cruise control”

“needed premature replacement not covered by warranty”

“Became faulty; scratched DVD; currently unUSble”

“Get an error message that CD cannot be read and to consult dealer”

“Navigation system extremely unreliable. Stops working when you enter an area not "verified" by provider.. These areas were established rotates, not new unmapped streets. And in Central and Western NY with millions of people. Left stranded so often,”

“doesn't understand english! Misinterprets must comands so I don't use”

“Rattle sound coming from from right fender area. Dealer suspects it is internal to fender and interior liner”

“Makes too much rattling and road noise”

“A very reliable vehicle for our family, but road noise and the front end delivery every bump and crack in the road to the cabin area”

“Very noisy from chassis and engine”

“Car "clicks" when turning to right or left fully; said to be a defect in the axle which will eventually need require replacement of axles. Said to be fairly common with this year Civic”

“rattle noise wife has had some accidents could have caused ac never got cold enough even when new”

“Rattles coming from front right side of car when driving. May be loose air vent assembly under fender that feeds air to defroster vent on tiny triangular window in fron of right door. This little window is only on EX models and is replaced by a solid”

“can't find the source of the noise and it getting worse”

“Front right suspension sounds very loose. I have looked online and found that other people have had the same problem. The person had made a video of the problem with his car, problem is a oval hole that should be round. Rear end sounds loose too”

“Noise coming from front when turninig wheel”

“Car vibrates and shakes loudly when idling”

“There had always been a rattling sound coming from the back of the car. When we finally decided to have it fixed, they made us pay, although the sound had always been there and they were bound to have heard it from day one”

“Noisy at freeway speeds”

“It seems to have gotten worse through the years. I have to increase the volume on my radio to hear it above the noise, and it's also difficult to hear the GPS directions because of the noise”

“failed...had to have replaced”

“Right engine mount has failed. It is noisy, especially when backing in cold weather. This seems to be a common problem with this Honda”

“Loose and then broken engine mount”

“Mount goes bad on this car. Everyone knows about it. Not that big a deal but a big surprise from Honda to have this type of issue. Still love our Hondas though”

“Passenger side engine mount cracked. Needed replacement”

“Engine mount cracked”

“Vibration felt when in reverse traced to failed upper passenger side engine mount which was replaced”

“Right front mount was broken & had to be replaced”

“Leak in one of the cylinders”

“An oil leak occurred when the engine was replaced. This was covered under the recall/warranty”

“Not sure what caused it. Mechanic resolved the issue”

“Linkage rough sometimes won't go into gear”

“Shifting has always been a bit rough with the civic; now I believe I have to replace the pressure plate or master cylinder again”

“Bought car used; previous owner must have speed-shifted the trans: the synchronizer for 3d gear does not work; car must be carefully double-clutched in each gear change into 3d”

“2nd gear is a little tough at times”

“The transmission has been very rough shifting since the warranty was up...HOnda fixed the third gear, but all gears are very hard”

“For the second time, the car would not go into gear at all yesterday, and we have not taken it in yet. The first time was in 2012, and Honda replaced the transmission alignment sensor. Both times the car was hot and we turned it off, waited, and then”

“At first, I started having a hard time shifting into second. Then, I became almost impossible to shift into second and hard to shift in third. Finally, when I was able to shift into second, the stick would sometimes shift out of second by itself. We”

“TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK- SEAL AHD TO BE REPLACED”

“3rd gear sensor went bad 2 weeks after purchase and dealer replaced/repaired it at no charge”

“The solenoid went bad and I had it replaced”

“The entire clutch failed and had to be replaced”

“clutch slipped causing a distinct judder upon start after stop, that Honda found difficult to demonstrate when brought into service department twice. Finally replaced the starter clutch under warranty, solved the problem for a short while and after”

“Clutch pedal was squeaking and required replacement of clutch components”

“Clutch went out at 90k miles. I think this was a combination of inexperienced drivers driving the car for some time, burning the clutch, and the aggressive driving style of the primary driver. Also replaced the flywheel due to condition it was in”

“My car was 9 years old before I had to replace the transmission. I've had the usual replacements, brakes, windshield wipers, brake lights, etc. but I never had to fix anything major on it. When the transmission finally quit, it gave me some trouble for a couple of days and then it just failed. I got it replaced and it has worked fine ever since”

“Shifting the gears has been a problem from the beginning. It is very hard to put the clutch to the floor and shift. They fixed the 3rd gear during warranty. Now they wont do anything.!”

“Third gear needed to be completely replaced in my 6 speed manual transmission at 97,000 miles. Third gear was completely unusable”

“It failed and had to be replaced”

“Car stopped working, car towed to Honda dealership, cost to replace transmission $6500, despite low mileage -67700 and age-8 of car, we decided to donate car and purchase new car”

“Automatic lock doesn't work anymore”

“The fuel door would not open when very cold (below 20 degrees F)”

“electronic locks work intermittently. Driver control of passenger lock sometimes does not work. While driving it sounds like passenger lock is cycling lock/unlock”

“have had drivers side door lock replaced twice in past, and again in this past year, due to it not working (I lock the car manually, do not have a remote controlled lock system)”

“Driver side front door window did not roll up well or was slightly crooked and needed help to come up properly”

“Replaced front windshield three times due to large cracks appearing without a source”

“Used inside trunk release, trunk would not close properly after use. Solved problem by using key on lock and closing trunk. Now using key only to open/close trunk”

“Had to replace the hybrd batteries. Cost $2500 for refurbished batteries”

“Hybrid battery died and had to be replaced”

“Starter failed slowly, resulted in a battery purchase prior to replacing item. Difficult install”

“leak at seal”

“at approx 1500 rpm the car stutters forward and back as it goes through the shifts. Changing tranny oil eliminated the problem, but problem returns before tranny oil/filter is scheduled for next change”

“Broken front engine mount”

“damaged during winter driving - great car to date. Can't justify changing it”

“heat shield fell off and muffler broke off at flange”

“Needed to be replaced due to a hole from rusting”

“Crack in pipe connected to exhaust manifold repaired”

“Check engine light is on. Mechanic says we need a new Cat conv. It is $1500 to repair bc it has California emissions. We will repair it once before it's next inspection”

“fell off”

“ENGINE BLOCK HAD CRACK & LEAKING ANTIFREEZE. ENGINE BLOCK WAS REPLACED UNDER 10 YEAR EXTENDED WARRANTY BY HONDA FOR NO CHARGE INCLUDING RENTAL CAR”

“Honda has an engine casting problem in some of their Civic engines, leading to rapid loss of coolant end engine failure. Warranty does cover”

“Leak resulted in engine overheating; coupled with oil leak meant I was very lucky not to have permanently damaged the engine”

“Radiator failure. Radiator previously repaired with after market parts”

“Water pump pulley came off the water pump shaft. the pulley was still attached to the flange with the 3 bolts but the flange came off the water pump shaft”

“Faulty fuel regulator is leaking into vacuum hose”

“Fuel gauge works but often shows the mirror opposite. Instead of showing how full the tank is, it shows how empty it is. When I fill up, the gauge is blank (no lights at all). It does work.. sometimes normally, sometimes not”

“I believe it was the fuel injection. Whatever it was, it had to do with the Hybrid and was an unexpected expense”