Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

“Compressor stopped working. Got two opinions and had repairs done. Had to take back vehicle for AC work due to first repair not done right”

“The compressor broke/exploded into many pieces, and those pieces were sucked into the air conditioning system”

“Have replaces AC compressor 3 times in past 3 years”

“entire system including compressor,evaporator,condenser with core and expansion valves assembly,suction and discharge hoses were replaced as lines were contaminated with metal graines. $3400.00 job”

“AC compressor locked up & spread metal particles through out the system. Complete system replacement. Labor = $900. Parts = $ 2,500. Three weeks later, replaced main cooling & condenser fan motors & bushings. Parts= $550; Labor= $640”

“The AC has had to be replaced numerous times under warranty since we bought the car. I think we've had 4 new AC systems in the 12 years we've had this car”

“It just stopped working altogether”

“Air conditioner had "black death", completely died and was told it would take $5000 to fix”

“Compressor failed making a loud clanking sound. A/C no longer worked after this incident. Compressor and related A/C components were replaced at Honda Dealership”

“Had to replace the AC compressor, clutch, coil, and the radiator fan. Air bag was replaced under warranty”

“Basically the compressor died. I had it replaced and its been working fine since”

“This is the 3rd time I have had problems with the air conditioner unit in this vehicle. It seems to be a common problem with this vehicle. The compressor seems to be too small for the CRV. It has been an expensive problem”

“replaced outside AC compressor bearing. Complete AC replaced in recent years”

“The compressor malfunctioned, but many of the A/C components were replaced in order to satisfy the warranty on the new compressor”

“Air compressor broke apart 3/13.. After learning of $2,000 replacement cost decided to forget repairing. Use other car inhot weather”

“A/C does not work”

“AC broken down in 5 years”

“Compressor failure, replaced $800”

“A/C failed. Repair would be very costly, so now no A/C”

“Compressor failed. Over 1000 to repair”

“AC system has been replaced twice and has never worked properly since”

“It stopped blowing out cool air”

“Second time the ac unit has needed to be replaced. Both condenser and compressor were replaced for the 2nd time”

“stopped working”

“The compressor clutch will not latch”

“Compressor basically "blew up" and I had to have the entire AC system replaced at a cost of $1800”

“A/C compressor tore itself apart and cracked open. Repair requires replacement of entire A/C system which will almost equal 1/2 value of car”

“Compressor failed 2 months after recall time expired.Very expensive to replace”

“In the 10 years I've owned the vehicle the AC failed 4 times. It quit producing cool air and had to be replaced. The vehicle has had 5 AC units in its life. Four I have put in. A bad design for this vehicle”

“froze up and was ruined”

“Original equipment was replaced due to an accident in first year of ownership. Replacement compressor failed and was replaced last year”

“This has been the weakest component on this vehicle”

“The car is 14 years old with 165000 on it. The AC compressor just stop working this past fall (2016)”

“The entire A/C system failed this year. According to the dealership, with this revision of CRV, if any parts on the A/C unit fails, the entire system must be replaced at a cost of $4,000 (parts and labor). I have confirmed this analysis with a local garage as well”

“Honda had replaced the complete air conditioner less than two years earlier. Made a deal with the dealer to replace. I paid for labor, they paid for the new ac system”

“air compressor got a hole in it”

“The air conditioner completely failed. The cost to replace it is too much for a vehicle of this age and condition”

“A/C went out completely. We had it replaced with OEM parts and it went out again 6 months later. We were told because of the design it was likely to have repeat problems”

“The compressor unit in this vehicle completely failed for the second time. It was replaced several years ago with the same unit and it lasted only 2 years. No more A/C in this vehicle!”

“Compressor went out suddenly. Dealer wanted over $1200. to replace AC system”

“I had to put in a new air condition right after the warranty ran out, about a year after I purchased it new”

“did not work”

“Air conditioner ceased working. Compressor was first diagnosis, but then it also needed a new fan or blower. Quite costly”

“Last october the ac stopped working. I took it into the shop and they said the compressor was ok but needed a fan and seals. The cost was $750. That was too much to spend on an old car. The car runs fine and has never had any problems”

“Fan stopped working suddenly. Repaired by Honda”

“May 2014. 90 degrees and no air and going on vacation the next day. Luckily my dealer was able to fix it the same day”

“module”

“The motor of the fan burned out and was replaced”

“AC compressor and condenser are continual problems. On my 3rd compressor and condenser and the current condenser is bad according to the dealer”

“The condenser was replaced with the entire AC system. Four times in 10 years of ownership. I live in the desert and AC is necessary”

“musty smell”

“The heater stopped working in December, it took the dealer about 1 week to find the problem and fix but I had a loaner”

“AC stopped working. Slow leak detected in unknown location. Mechanic injected dye to locate leak in future”

“just noticed A/C not working. Added refrigerant myself and hope this fixes leak”

“Replaced leaking rad”

“Found someone who replaced system for $600. but had to take it back twice because of leaks”

“The wire became disconnected”

“Guage ligth to make outside temperature easiy to read in dim ligth failed. Can''t tell temp at night to warn of possible freezing roads conditions”

“Dashboard light went out. One of a cluster. I had to replace the whole set to make it worthwhile”

“I had the headlights wiring harness replaced as a result of a recall”

“The sidelights do not automatically switch off when the car is parked. They need to be manually switched off from within the car”

“Faulty light socket on brake light/tail light. Bad ground causing brake light to dim when headlights are on”

“I suspect a "computer" (circuit board) is responsible. Also related failed warning lights and alarm (lights left on)”

“Seems to be a fuse problem that is impossible to fix. No matter what has been tried, it may work for a short time and then stop again. This also effects any warning of battery drain, which results in too frequent need for battery jumps. Good thing th”

“Replaced the bulbs but just can't seem to get the interior lights to come on when I open the door”

“Dashboard lights are burning out. Hard and expensive (labor) to replace”

“you cannot unlock/lock the doors using the remote control unit. You have to use the manual key”

“Since owning the car (since 2006) I have had to replace two of the door locks and just recently the third door lock and the rear door lock electronics have failed. One of the door locks wasn't working when we bought the car and the dealer replaced t”

“Door does not unlock when using keyfob. Must use key in door to unlock”

“Does not work”

“Driver's side door lock failed - can not enter thru driver's side door with keyless OR keyed entry. Must unlock from passenger side”

“Door lock wouldn't accept key. Actuators on three doors and back gate failed”

“driver side door electronic lock actuator had to be replaced”

“With the exception of the driver's door, one by one our door locks have gone "off the grid", i.e. the key fob no longer works them. We have complained to our dealer but to no avail”

“I am only able to unlock the passenger door using the key. I am only able to lock and unlock the trunk using Keyless entry. The cost to replace the parts and repair the problem is approx. $2,000.00”

“Not really a problem. The drivers side remote door lock quit working after 14 years”

“Needed key to open driver-side front door. After unlocking driver-side front door, passenger-side front door and rear door could be operated unlocked with remote. Same when locking. Driver-side front door would have to first be locked with key. Both rear doors had to be locked/unlocked manually at all times”

“Both passenger side door lock/unlock motor assemblies have failed. The repair, though not expensive when done at home, is extremely tedious. I have had other Hondas which have had this door lock/unlock failure”

“Power locks quit working”

“A sensor inthe gas tank failed and the repair would have been more than the value of the car. Hello, electrical tape!”

“Dash cluster failure”

“Again, since fuse seems to blow, or short out constantly, it is difficult to know when you have left interior or exterior lights on, causing battery drains”

“maintence light doesn't go off”

“Related to suspected faulty circuit board”

“engine light stays on. problem with gas cap even after changing it 3 times. will reset and stay off until gas is added to car. checked many times”

“passenger side window washer won't work”

“The windshield washer fluid is not working. This becomes rather dangerous on a dirty road when there is lots of rain, as I have troubles seeing the road ahead of me”

“The wipers do not return to the closed position”

“The car had no warning lights or signal that indicated the car lights were left on, resulting in several dead batteries. A visit to a Honda repair shop fixed the problem by installing a warning signal if the lights were left on. We don't know if this light warning was originally just missing from our 2003 model, but we relieved to have it corrected”

“rear calipers locked up on both 2003 and 2005 CRV”

“Rear passenger brake caliper froze and ruined the rotors and pads”

“rear brake calipers stuck closed”

“Caliper "froze" up”

“Routine wear/replacement”

“Both rear calipers failed at different times and wore out the break pads”

“frozen but this is a high mileage vehicle”

“Had to be replaced in front due to rusting”

“Caliper failed”

“Replaced due to wear”

“sizing brake caliper”

“Brake apd had to be replaced along with the rotors”

“this was the second time I had the brake rotors and pads replaced in 165000 miles. Pretty good, I think”

“got my money's worth from the front brakes but it is getting expensive replacing them”

“normal check up was time to replace brakes”

“replaced woen parts”

“Needed to have rotors replaced”

“Brake pads worn down all the way around, calipers needed adjusting, rotors turned”

“had to replace front brakes due to normal wear”

“BRAKES ALWAYS SOMETHING WE HAVE SPENT THOUSNDS ON BRAKES-FROM DAY ONE BIG BRAKE PROBLEMS--DEALER WOULD NOT TAKE CARE OF IT FOR US---WE WENT TO OTHER DEALERS--”

“lt rear brakes premature wear, other brakes standard wear”

“Have had to buy brake pads each year for last 3 years”

“We are continually replacing the brakes, which is frustrating because we drive in a suburban area with very little high speed breaking and little demand on the brakes”

“THEY ARE FINE AFTER FIX”

“Brakes were juddering when applied strongly. Mechanic (trusted, long-time) told me the rotors were faulty. Warped was, I think, the word he used”

“Rotors warped, causing strong pulsing when braking from high speed. Had the rotors turned and new brake pads installed. Functioned OK for about 5K miles, then started again worse than before. Will need to install new front rotors, and maybe pads a”

“something came loss and caused the replacement of calipers,rotors”

“rear rotors warped due to frozen calipers at around 249000 Km”

“Uneven wear causes pulsation in braking. Servicing was not effective”

“It's gotten very "rattly" in the past two years”

“Just had to replace pads on the back wheels and have rotors turned .problem reoccurred and had to take back and replace pads and put on new rotors”