Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

"Ball joint boots deteriorated but joints themselves are OK ----250 to replace 15.00 in parts"

"CV boot had to be replaced"

"The ball joints were very loose and the dealer didn't correct the problem on the last major inspection and I had the problem addressed when I went to a tire dealer for a leaking tire."

"Dealer noted at annual inspection that rubber boots were torn and ball joints had excessive play."

"they were worn down"

"Left bushing needed replacement"

"Loose bushing the result of aging materials. Car is 14 years old and non metal parts, ie: rubber, fiber, cork gaskets, etc. an begin to deteriorate over time"

"Had to have the left front bushing replaced."

"Old age, started leaking and needed to be placed"

"One of the metal lines carrying power steering fluid rusted through and began to leak."

"I almost blew out the pump when steering became noisy. I got the hose replaced"

"power steering fluid leaked and caused belt to come apart caused everything to overheat. had to replace belt and pump."

"Original struts on the car needed to be replaced. Identified problem through normal maintenance"

"Left front strut leaking - Replacement cost 500.00"

"Cost was main issue; had to replace due to wear and tear; also had to replace the ignition switch"

"These were the original shocks and struts so the needed to be replaced due to normal wear"

"Squick, making noise when driving"

"Shocks completely worn due to wear & tear; 256 miles on original equipment"

"Shock leaks"

"Needed to be replaced"

"replaced, but not surprised due to age/mileage and teenager delivering pizza!"

"Started with a shudder in the steering wheel, only with acceleration. Took to the dealer, who "guessed" it was related to the struts (which was failing) and possible the joint in the axle. Replaced both sides on the front, and the problem was resol"

"Needed new struts"

"Struts need to be replaced"

"Front shocks making noise when driving over bumps and potholes"

"We have already replaced the shocks and structs, but they have now worn, causing harsh ride excessive road noise"

"replaced CV-axles front left and right."

"dealer noted strut leaking , none had ever been replaced. I replaced all four struts with complete spring strut assemblies when ball joints were replaced. It now rides like a new car."

"Left front strut is shot, sometimes it makes a terrible noise sometimes not. I've not gotten it fixed yet because I keep considering selling the car."

"Honda strut cost has increased significantly in the last year."

"When getting new tires, mechanic suggested I have struts (front and rear) examined. A specialized wheel mechanic replaced front an rear struts Sept 2018."

"Broken rear spring,required replacing both rear springs and some adjoining parts"

"Front and rear sway bar end links failed."

"Car had over 200k miles. Used to live on a street that had HIGH speed bumps. 5 of them. Minimum of 20 hits a day. Eventually messed up the suspension."

"Broken anti sway bar"

"rough spots in a road will start a shimmy in the front wheels that last a few seconds. The dealer supposedly fixed it but it stills does it"

"Needed to be replaced"

"Tie rod end needed replacing"

"The last year or so, not many miles but cant get parts from honda due to age of car, so ime stuck with used parts and massive labor costs and cant trust ny old reliable car any longer"

"Loud noise coming from front wheels. The faster the car was driven the louder the noise"

"Humming began gradually about 1yr to 1and half years ago till it became obvious and annoying.located which rear bearing and had it replaced. Big job!"

"first replacement of wheel bearing. Lasted for 200000 miles. awesome!"

"emission lwarning light kept coming on so had to replace emissions part in order to pass emission check for state license"

"Evap canister had to replaced to pass emission test"

"Numerous attempts including replacement of catalytic converter, all sensors, and various other parts and tests, have failed to extinguish the check engine light."

"Check engine light coming on/going off. Mechanic says the computer check says it looks like the catalytic converter. Then light goes off and no more trouble for a while"

"EGR valve had a leak. It was replace by a mechanic"

"Catalytic converted failed."

"Check engine light illuminated (6/3/19) .Took the car to Auto Zone Who performed a free diagnostics with a hand held OBD ll sensor, Which indicated the replacement of the intake manifold runner control(MRC).. Thaking it to my local mechanic to confirm and repair the problem"

"The fuel cap has been an issue from day 1. Difficult to fully tighten leading to check engine light coming on"

"I have bought 2 different fuel caps, including 1 OEM, but the engine light code still comes up and the light stays on"

"Fuel gauge does not accurately reflect amount of fuel in gas tank."

"Did not hold idle. Replaced IACV to no avail - there are more, other problems with idle"

"worn bushing on pump seized. Reasonable considering 267,000 Km. Fixed in in one day."

"The 1st O2 sensor failed, and when we replaced it we learned that the 2nd O2 sensor had also failed. The sensor was attached to the catalytic converter and could not be loosened from it, so we had to replace the catalytic converter also"

"No warning that a failure was imminent during regular maintenance checks. This can cause engine failure"

"Connected obd11 to locate which sensor and replaced it.No 1 sensor(upper one).early 2014 and working fine since"

"Check engine light came on and would not go off after more than a week. Need tests & parts to repair it"

"Sensor had to replaced to pass emission test changed myself"

"Check engine light comes on frequently. 02 sensor failed, pollution control system problems, transmission speed sensor failed. Also exhaust manifold rusted, holes developed"

"I have replaced O2 sensors twice in 153000 miles"

"Engine light warning. Lower gas milage"

"Check engine alarm was present when I purchased it. I have to replace one oxygen sensor. I found an OEM part on the Internet then replace the part myself"

"Engine light was on intermittently for awhile. When checked by dealer a new oxygen sensor and electronic load detector were needed. Labor $265, parts $421."

"Took the mechanic a long while to figure out problem. The electronic feedback hat would indicate problem area was not terribly accurate."

"The paint on the hood peeled and chipped despite being kept in a garage"

"paint fading and spreading over hood and roof. needs to be repainted badly"

"Clear coat cracking"

"Paint is extremely faded on roof and hood"

"The Hondas been outside much of my ownership and it looked pretty bad - so recently I had it repainted by Maaco"

"Clear coat failure on the roof and hood on my red paint"

"paint is chalking on the roof of the SUV"

"Clear coat crazing. When viewed at an angle in sunlight, the crazing appears. (Crazing may not be the right description, but faint cracking only in the clear coat appears.)"

"Paint on the front right quarter panel and right side near the roof top coat has failed and the paint is peeling."

"the clear coat finish is peeling away"

"I was disappointed that the paint was cracking and peeling on the whole car."

"The area around the gas filler door has completely rusted out and rust is starting to spread"

"There was a surprising amount of rust that required cutting out and repair. It is fixed now"

"rust on bottom of doors rust on fenders"

"rust forming at seams on rear quarter panels"

"Rust on both rear quarter panels at the seams. This appears to be a common Honda problem area on most older Hondas"

"Rust on driver rear panel just above wheel"

"rust ocuring near molding"

"rust starting on wheel wells behind back doors noticed other crv,s rusting in the same spot"

"Rear wheel wells"

"rust around rear wheels"

"Two of four cylinders were misfiring. Needed valves reworked to fix the problem"

"Have take to mechanic several times and uable to resolve. The care runs bad"

"Needed replacement from wear"

"Had two engine and one trans. mount replaced."

"Developed a fuel leak in the filler pipe. Then had a section of fuel line rust out"

"A fuel line was leaking at a connection point. It was easily repaired."

"The fuel line started to leak gas during travel and when first parked and posed a safety hazard."

"Dripped on our paved driveway. Had to have several items replaced - seals, oil filter tightened after a change, solenoid leaking, frame flushed off"

"persistent oil leak"

"Ongoing oil leakage in small quantities, mechanics have been unable to resolve the issue"

"Numerous attempts by two mechanics to fix oil leaks in this vehicle failed, until recently. Main area of leakage seemed to be the VTEC solenoid."

"I believe it is just age."

"Noted an oil spot on my garage floor. Told my mechanics, and they found a leak in the oil pan. They repaired it, which took several hours, and cost $782."

"VTEC Solenoid was leaking, replacement fixed problem."

"Replaced a seal but still uses oil. I have to check oil every 1000 tp 1500 miles. usually takes one quart"

"Constant slow oil leak for past 5 yrs"

"transmission/engine oil seal leaked 90000 mi, fixed by indenpent shop"

"Leaked oil from the VTEC solenoid more than once."

"I THOUGHT I needed spark plugs. After I had the work done at the dealer I discovered the dealer had done the same job a year earlier! They would not give me any credit!"

"Spark plugs reached the end of their useful life"

"Starter solinoid failed"

"Intermittent problem with starting for a few months. Thought it was a battery issue, replaced the battery, still had trouble, thought it might be alternator, checked out fine. Problem continued, found to be the starter, had repaired"

"Starter failed-took three different replacement starters to finally get the problem fixed"

"Car would hesitate to start for about 3 months. This grew more frequent during a one week period and I took it to the dealer for repair. 3 days later I finally got my car back"

"The starter had to be replaced"

"this starter location is the most Honorable located one i have ever worked on"

"Starter degraded"

"Stopped working. Towed to dealer, our regular service center. They replaced it within 24 hours."

"Starter failed and had to be replaced"

"This is the first time I have had to replace the starter . It would crank over several times before it would start. After the first start of the day I didn't have any further problems. I had an appointment the day it quit to have it checked. Had to have car towed"

"Walked out one morning and with no warning just wouldnt start"

"CRV needed replacement starter under 120000 miles"

"Wouldn't start at times. Would crank but not start."

"rear hatch seal failed, water came into the car"

"Squeak was and noise was a belt in engine. Unfortunately road noise is a problem with all Honda CRVs. If they would make it quieter I would consider buying a second CRV to replace my 2003"

"due to wear in the suspension system"

"Thumping noise in the rear of the car. Could be sway bar"

"Th ear made an odd almost chirp occasionally. It would not happen for a mechanic"

"the car is 13 years old. what more is there to say?"

"Rattle from left side of car and noise when stepping on gas after green light. Both problems fixed by mechanic"

"Needed tie rod ends CV joints"

"I live in a city with very poor streets, hence the squeaks and rattles. And the car is 15 years old."

"When car hits bumps, there are many noises somewhere inside the doors and back section that we cannot locate. Sounds like something is loose in several places. Noise is very irritating."

"A rattling noise appears behind dash when air conditioning is engaged."

"Very loud noise on highway especially in back seat"

"this is one of the noises vehicles i have ever owned you can hardly here the other passengers talk while driving"

"The car is 13 years old. It always sounds like wind is coming in as you drive it"

"bushings were worn out in the dampening mechanism located above the differential"

"Led to replacement of driveshaft"

"Related to the driveline that was replaced."

"When driving at about 55 mph (at appx 3300 rpm) the vehicles has a low droning whine."

"worn out"

"The coupling between the driveshaft and the rear differential broke, and the whole driveshaft had to be replaced"

"making noises, and were bent. replaced all"

"Universal joint on drive shaft became defective. Entire drive shaft had to be replaced as there is no fix on this year model by replacing universal joint"

"Needed to be replaced"

"The CRV began to vibrate at about 40 km/h. I took it in to the garage and they had to replace the drive shaft"

"Driveshaft twisted the universal joint have to replace whole driveshaft. aftermarket best choice for cost reasons"

"I went to the dealer for noise and vibration. They found that the drive line to the rear axle needed to be replaced."

"Tie rod needed to be replaced."

"Failure of electric locks and windows"

"Engine light on. Cat converter needed to be replaced along with o2 sensor"

"It died and had to be replaced"

"Needed to be replaced, and was going to cost a significant amount of money"

"Converter went bad a 150000 miles. I have elected not to replace due to cost and no legislated requirement to replace. Another know defect with this vehicle that Honda has not addressed"

"If the EGR's associated with the Catalytic converter hadn't failed then the converter wouldn't have failed. If the converter hadn't been installed then the exhaust system would be just fine."

"Catalytic Converter was replaced following the check engine light coming on."

"pipie connections rusted . Pipes themselves are stainless but connection hubs are not"

"Exhaust system separation"

"after changing Valve, engine light is still on"

";eaked, seals had to be replaced"

"safety recall by honda"

"There was a recall. I was summoned in for a free repair of the airbags."

"Airbag warning light on for a long time. Received recall notice about airbags but dealer said it only covered one small part of the anticipated repairs. Decided to live w/o airbags."

"Trunk lock doesn't work. Driver's door lock doesn't work. Have had other door lock problems in the past that were repaired"

"On the back hatch water was leaking in and the driver side lock stop working from the ExterIor"

"Hood release cable broke I had to have the dealer open it and it cost a lot of money because of the difficulty in opening a hood without being able to access the latch"

"Door lock on front right and tailgate not working well; had left front (drivers) lock replaced in the past."

"Lock (driver side) won't accept key. If sun hits drivers side, it will not unlock even with keyfob. Also alarm sets itself within 2 minutes."

"The lock on the rear door failed. It will not accept the key. The only way to unlock or lock the rear door is by using the unlock button on the front door."

"sideview mirror broke"

"sunroof motor died having to replace it."

"The electronic lock and unlock no longer functions"

"key on longer works to open the tailgate latch"

"Drivers side master power window failed in the down position; almost simultaneously Master door lock, passenger door lock, &rear door lock all failed. My safety was my biggest concern as the driver side door became more difficult to enter using the key plus keyless entry failure disabled interior lights and other safety measures associated with the master power lock. Car dealership charge an exorbitant $550 to replace the master power door window, which I paid, but I found a local mechanic to replace the three door lock actuators as the price quoted was even higher than the power window motor replacement. All these items had been included in various recalls in years prior, but I never received notices for based on my Vin number."

"jam"

"James and cost of repair greater than purchase on new unit"

"Broken, discs were stuck in the OEM unit"

"In 4 years the multi CD changer has broken 4 times and been replaced twice. I replaced it with a single CD player"

"It stopped reading CDs"

"it totaly ate 6 cds"

"There is a 6 CD player. A few times it has gotten jammed when "told" to load/unload or select a different CD when it is already in motion. It "fixed" itself once, but has been stuck now for about 3 months. I will probably remove it to free up the CD changing arm, but the replacement is $1600 !"

"6 disk changer stopped functioning. Would not play nor eject disks. Dealer offered to remove and send for repair but cost was prohibitive"

"I will need to have the audio system replaced this year."

"CD player completely failed, trapping my CDs inside. Mfg. replacement costs more than blue book value of the vehicle. Online comments from other CR-V owners indicate that it's a common problem with 2003 CR-Vs and that there is no real fix. Haven't been able to find any after-market unit that fits"

"LCD clock screen shows 88:88 unless you press on the screen with your fingers"

"Automatic speed control failed @ 200,000 mi"

"Cruise control would disengage without my braking or canceling by touch. I no longer use it because I distrust it"

"We have a slight transmission fluid leak in our 2003 CRV. It is not cost effective to get it fixed, so we monitor the fluid and replace as needed."

"Check engine light indicated 2nd to 3rd shift sensor failed. Recommend transmission replacement"

"check engine lite on indicating trans problem but it seems to run ok"

"Computer analysis at dealer detected a problem. The sensor was replaced and the car returned to like-new performance"

"The timing chain loosened and jumped time causing the engine to barely run. According to my mechanic, there is an good chance that this damaged the valves. The potential cost of the repair vs the condition of the car (Vermont rust) made it not worth repairing. The car currently sits in the yard, un-driveable and has been replaced"