Honda CR-V

"The 12V plug continues to blow fuses. We took to the Honda dealership, they put another fuse in that blew at first use"

"12v power plug stopped working. Fuse was ok. STILL after nearly a year, cannot determine source of problem, and don't want to pay Honda $300 to figure it out. Wiring problem?"

"12V power plug stopped working. Replaced plug itself, but that did not fix the problem. Should have checked - no 12V coming through wires at all. Fuse is good. That means I'll have to tear the dash apart to replace a defective wire. Will probably have to pay Honda hundreds of dollars for this. I'm not happy."

"it is hard to reset after the battery goes down and so is the radio"

"JUST LIGHT IS OUT .IT WORK JUST FINE"

"speedometer stopped working when cruise control was engages"

"burned out had to replace"

"burned out bulb"

"Repeated problem with this car; brake lights fail at least once a year; seems to be an electrical problem with this model that is not readily remediable."

"Electrical problems (wiring?) continually burn out the right taillight, which then has to be replaced over and over again."

"Brake light switch failed resulting in the brake lights remaining on."

"Not the gauge itself but the light (backlight?) on the odometer is out. Shops say cost of repair prohibitive as would require removal of entire dash"

"Some of the dashboard panel lights for the speedometer failed. They were 10 years old and I replaced them myself using a YouTube video for instructions. The cost was less than $10 for the repair"

"In dash light for speedometer going out"

"The lights burned out and needed to replace the bulbs"

"I have had numerous lights go out on the dash and climate controls"

"stereo lighting is out as well as odometer light and heating dial light is out"

"Gas gauge incorrect"

"Lights behind some dash gauges failed couple of years ago. Repair would entail removing the dash and cost prohibitive so unable to read a few at night."

"Bulbs burned out for dashboard gauges and Honda does not have replacements for the gear selector lights. Impossible to find. Bulbs for the climate control and odometer also burned out but Honda has replacements."

"The computer was displaying about 4 different warnings at one time. The repair shop said it concerned the acceleration pedal and they could go ahead and replace it at over $500, or see if the problem (maybe a faulty warning system) corrects itself --which it did after resetting the computer 2 times. The lights have not come back on in about 2 months time. I'm also wondering, but haven't asked the mechanics, if this could have been due to using bad gas?"

"I've replaced the headlight bulbs on a yearly basis since purchasing the vehicle because they burn out. My mechanic finally told me this is not normal"

"The headlights burn out on average very 6 months. I have tried difference kinds of bulbs, but did not help"

"Both low beam lights replaced in December 2015. One had to be replaced again in January 2017, only 13 months later"

"Replacing headlamps way too frequently"

"Bulbs must be replaced almost every 18 months"

"The headlight lamps (bulbs) frequently burn out. I have had them replaced frequently by the dealer"

"wiring harness connector to headlight corroded and fell apart"

"A headlight burns out about every 6 months"

"Have had to replace headlights 3 times in last 12 months. There is a short somewhere but mechanic can not find"

"Headlight bulbs burn out on regular basis 13 since 2009"

"Repeated headlight failure (Both sides) until my shop rewired part of the headlight harness. I probably went through a dozen headlights!!"

"Have had to replace headlights 1 to 2 times a year"

"Headlamps keep blowing out. Replacements only last 3-4 months. Online boards suggest a problem with the ground. Not worth the repair cost, will keep replacing headlamps"

"Driver's side headlight has intermittent short circuit in wiring. Dealer/private mechanic having trouble isolating problem"

"Headlights burn out too often"

"drivers side bulb keeps burning out... voltage tested the same for right and left headlight"

"I tried to use the Sylvania headlight bulbs, they were noticeably brighter, but only lasted one year or less. Went through several sets all replaced under warranty by local parts shop, but still agravating to replace. Went back to OEM bulbs"

"Switch for bright headlights was replaced"

"Both dim headlights burn our simultaneously"

"A headlight dies about every six months on this car. Similar problem in 2002 Honda CR-V EX previously owned"

"Have had to replace headlights about 4x"

"I continuously was replacing headlight bulbs. found out that it was a faulty module that was replaced. Two tail light bulbs have been replaced also but are longer lived"

"Headlight bulbs (low-beam) burn out in approximately 3 months. Honda didn't want to look for an issue"

"In the last year we have replaced both headlights 2 times"

"Headlights have burned out twice - more than any other car I've ever had. A BIG pain to replace"

"Headlights go out at the very least YEARLY if not more often"

"One headlight burned out"

"need to replace headlights every 3 months"

"Headlights keep burning out repeatedly"

"Burned out had to replace"

"Headlights burned out too often"

"The headlight lenses have severely degraded (opaqueness) making it difficult to see while driving at night. The only fix is to replace both lens assemblies"

"Just seems the bulb burns out fast"

"Headlights need to be replaced 3 to 4 times a year. Honda must have electrical/light problem that they don't acknowledge. My local mechanic replaces more headlights than normal on CRVs about same age as mine"

"The headlights need to be replaced about once a year. I tried different brands and they all seem to fail. The Honda parts did the same thing, fail"

"They are difficult to change out myself. I have to take it to the shop to have them replaced. This is a simple task that one should be able to do on their own"

"The headlight bulbs have burned out several times in the past year or two. It might be poor quality bulbs, as I purchased them at a parts store and installed them myself. just last week another one burned out. I have not taken it to a mechanic for th"

"the headlight bulbs are too easy to burn out; besides the turning lights are too weak to see in the direction you wants to turn into"

"Burnout"

"Replacement bulbs continuously failed and would go out in a few weeks to a month after purchase. The dealer stated it was improper installation. I believe the dealer was responsible."

"My CR-V eats headlights. I always keep two spares in my car because it burns out a pair every 6 months or less..."

"Seems to be some kind of short in the system. Replaced headlight 2 times in 12 months and 7 times last 3 years."

"We keep having to replace headlights - every 18 months or so - too frequently for a car that is not driven much."

"Its difficult to find a auto repair that doesn't want to re-examine a total electrical system, even when previous exams showed no electrical problem. I found the problem identified by other uses on web. Seems to be a functional problem with how headlight sits in a bracket."

"I have Spent more than $400 having our mechanic change light bulbs in this vehicle. That includes having to remove the entire left front quarter panel to just get to the mechanism that holds the bulb after it broke. The way the light holding mechanism is engineered is junk. Bulbs should just screw in as they did for decades."

"Had to replace a headlight because the clip that holds the bulb broke. Had to replace tail light because water was building up inside the light unit."

"replaced 8 headlights over the 12 years owned"

"Switched out bulbs, entire headlight assembly three times...electrical short somewhere"

"The headlights fail repeatedly and often. They must be replaced much more frequently than the normal life of a replacement bulb, and we ensure we do not touch the bulb and that we use contact grease as per the installation instructions. It doesn't matter whether they are replaced by us or by a professional mechanic or the dealer."

"had to replace the bulb a number of times."

"Every month one or the other headlight went out. It was finally discovered that the electrical plug that the headlight plugs into rusted away."

"repeated electric problems causing the left headlight to blow out when used. Replaced headlight over 5 times so far"

"Definite problem with wiring or fuses or something for front headlights. Plus, replacing is very difficult. Have had 7 headlights on drivers side, 4 on passengers"

"I've had to change one or the other headlight at least once a year for the past several years. It seems like it is more often then other vehicles I've owned. But it would not stop me from recommending a Honda to anyone. I have thoroughly enjoyed this car, the handling, reliability, comfort, etc."

"Have had to replace headlights twice. Mechanic says electrical problem. Too expensive to fix."

"The passenger side set no longer heats up."

"My horn did not work, it had to be replaced. wheel ?? arms needed to be replaced"

"Lighting for gas gauge, odometer, etc. burned out and had to be replaced"

"several interior lights have stopped lighting. parts are inexpensive but the labor is too expensive to have it fixed. Odometer, temperature control, duct control"

"Dashboard backlights are burning out, making it difficult/impossible to read some gauges and settings at night"

"Dash lights are burning out. 2 dash illumination bulbs, plus cruise control indicator light, plus climate control dial light"

"The interior lights have never really worked peroperly. We had them check it and they simply don't work"

"Interior lights have not worked since about 10000 miles, I never really paid attention since I seldom drove the car at night. Then one day I tried to turn them on and they would not work. I have found that many people have interior and exterior ligh"

"Then dont't work any more, even though replaced bulbs"

"nearly all instrument panel lights have failed over the last year; had to pull the instrument panel and replace the bulbs. Never had such a problem with other Hondas I have owned"

"Light button for overhead map light broke. Interior dome light has a short."

"Interior lights for the Temperature controls for heating and air conditioner control. Couldn't see the control setting when the car was turned on at night."

"The interior dome light functions only occasionally. If does not turn off reliably, which could drain the battery, so I do not use it. Not having an interior light is annoying."

"dome light does not go on when door is open - can't figure out where the problem is"

"pretty much all dashboard lights burned out and needed to be replaced"

"Switch on tailgate controlling interior light at back of this CR-V failed. Easy fix, though."

"the dome light hasn't worked in years - one time it worked for about 2 weeks than stopped working again"

"Dome light circuit board failed. Prohibitive cost to replace given cars age."

"some door(S) and ignition switch locked up"

"Remote keys wouldn't start car"

"Remote locking is complicated and difficult to repair"

"The rear window alarm goes off and on with no problem with the window"

"The check engine light came on because an electrical sensor had to be replaced. It is the only time such a problem has occurred."

"In the middle of a rainstorm, naturally, my wipers ceased working. Nothing that couldn't be taken care of, but very inconvenient and dangerous at the time"

"Windshied washer not working properly"

"In a check of our Honda at dealer because of ongoing dead battery/ electrical drainage, they did other vechicle checks. They found that our ABS light showing on dash indicatesd that the computer module of the ABS is not working, & REPLACEMENT COST about $2800 !! We did not proceed with it , vechicle drives ok & we don't use often.Bug need to get fixed for resale etc , & will proceed with attempt at used from a grave or specialty salvage yard. Extremely disappointing to find such an immense cost of a module. Sours me on Honda , unless it's the dealer. Plus they have not remedied the batery/ elctrical issue on this same vechicle despite rigorous check which found nothing wrong ( after new battery a few months ago)"

"was apparently part of the VSA issue"

"the caliper from the back right wheel didn't return to original position causing to lose the pad. change the calipers for all wheel was expensive"

"Worn and had them rebuilt"

"needed replacement"

"froze up not work well"

"One of the sliding pins froze up. Took apart and cleaned it and put back together"

"CALIPER PIN SHEARED OFF"

""Stuck/frozen" calipers on both left and right rear brakes required new calipers, pads, and in one case, a rotor"

"They malfunctioned and had to be replaced along with brake pads and new roters"

"Allegedly the caliper on the right front brake stuck. I should have noticed it as the CRV stopped coasting along and slowed much more than my other cars with no throttle. Garage said the pad was gone and braking was metal on metal. Had to replace calipers, pads and rotors. I had only 15,000 miles on the new brake pads and rotors (but calipers had not been replaced at that time"

"Honda's seem prone to frozen calipers, especially in the rear. Owned 07 Civic SI and 03 CRV that had same problem every 60k miles or so"

"front calipers worn out after 4 years of normal driving had to be replaced"

"total failure of calipeers"

"Caliper had to be replaced because of premature break wear. Took the dealer two tries"

"Caliper wore through and had to replace back brakes that were only 1 year old"

"caliper stuck causing premature brake wear"

"one rear caliper froze necessitating complete rear axle brake/caliper/rotor replacement"

"Right front caliper frozen. Had to replace caliper and rotor"

"broken caliper"

"Replaced calipers twice during warranty and after we covered cost of replacement. When we are on highway, one back and sometimes front wheel smells burned, especially if we are on cruise. When off cruise we at times feels a shimmy"

"Front and rear calipers frozen due to water entering piston boot"

"Caliper piston froze up"

"caliper froze"

"RIGHT BACK CALIPER WAS CHANGED THREE TIMES, BECAUSE WAS BROKEN"

"One caliber had seized sliders. This is the fourth time I have experienced this issue since purchasing the vehicle, but have experienced this once in the past 12 months. The problem started approximately two to three weeks ago (roughly beginning of April) and was resolved on April 23."

"first time but both front needed replaced"

"Rear passenger side brake caliper pin sticking, causing premature pad wear."

"noise alerted me to stop at a Honda dealer en route; had to have car flatbed to my local Honda Dealer; Good for AAA!"

"brakes, rotors and calipers were replaced in spring, in fall the rotors and calipers went bad, and a again in March brakes, rotors and calipers needed replacing!"

"At routine check when servicing, they found one rear brake caliper was defective or broken and dragging, which caused brake wear and lower MPG. Took it to another shop and they said same thing, so I had it replaced. That improved MPG."

"Just hard to believe master cylinders needed replacement"

"leaking and needed replaced"

"Brake pads were worn and needed to be replaced"

"Pads were down to the last few mm and stopping became dicey"

"Had to replace front and rear brake pads and resurface rotors after about 70,000 miles"

"the front brake pads wore out and were replaced"

"Was advised by Toyota dealer when having regular maintenance done that the rear brakes needed to be replaced because of normal wear"

"The brakes have gone on it twice and seem to have rusted out"

"Needed new brakes. calipers were frozen. This car is used for commuting. It is serious because it is expensive. However, we were not surprised because of age. We are very pleased with this car"

"Noise"

"The real breaks got noisey, When I took it in the front pads needed replacement and ack rotor needed the rust on the outside of the rotor ground down."

"Break pads & rotors are expected to have end-of-life at age of this vehicle. This is case here given milage."

"Had had brakes done about 40,000 km ago at Midas. Had to redo them again. Hadn't had the problem previously so I suspect it was the pads that Midas used."

"Replace rotors and pads"

"The parking brake wire tends to get wet and dirty because of our very rough long driveway and causes the brake to "freeze up" so that it can't be applied on the rare occasions necessary"

"apparently you cannot put aftermarket pads or parts on Honda braking systems. You have to use genuine Honda parts including the replacement pads. I had to have the entire braking system replaced after learning this the hard way"

"Didn't seem to get enough miles on new brakes"

"Premature brake wear has been a problem since vehicle was new"

"frozen caliper prematurely wore brake pads and generated excessive heat"

"Brakes have never worked well. Always wear too fast"

"The fit on the brake pad ears/tabs have a very tight fit on this vehicle and most Hondas I have had causing the pads to freeze up and wear out prematurely"

"Brakes already look as though the pads need to be replaced again! The're lasting less than 1 year"

"I replace the brakes at least once per year"

"I had to replace the rear brakes after about 11,000 miles, less than I ever did before. Neither the mechanic nor Honda could made any suggestions about alleviating this problem."

"Caused by worn out rotors"

"well need 2 rear tires had dry rot"

"Normal wear and tear"

"Brake peddle went soft so called a tow truck"

"Rear brakes down to 10% and screeched; fully re-built. Front brakes sticking - cleaned and serviced with 60% left. Both owing to poor maintenance by previous owner"

"I took it in and the mechanic ground it down and it thumped every time I used the breaks"

"right rear brake needed replacement. Over $800 for just one brake. I wonder who designs the rear brakes to cost that much to fix."

"Breaking had deteriorated. I had to replace the rotors"

"Wraped rotors"

"rear pads damaged rotor to produce squealing"

"Wheel vibration difficulty steering due to bad routers"

"Replaced original rotors"

"noise, pulling"

"The CRV sat for 1.5 years (only driving around the block every 3rd month) at a location 2 miles from the coast protected from the ocean by a small forest. The breaks were rusted, but worked. Repair person said we could drive it and the rust would wear off. A month later a full-break job had to be performed"

"Rotors went bad , had to replaced"

"Rusted rotors, resulting in pulsation/vibration during braking"

"Recall rotors heat warped @ 18,000 mi. Alert but no recall"

"Rotors developed rust rings consistently causing vehicle to pulse through the front brakes"

"As a result had to replace rotors on the back as well"

"Rotors became so rusted they destroyed the break pads. Acquaintances with the same car have had the same problem"

"Vibration experienced especially at freeway speeds; repaired once and needs repair again"

"I had to have the front rotors replaced"

"warping on front rotors"

"SUV vibrates when brakes applied hard"

"I resurface the rotors almost annually"

"Had to have new rotors"

"had to do all rotors at same time"

"Rotors could have been grounded but it would have left them at just a few mm's from end of life. It was an extra $20 for non-OEM rotors so I replaced them for the extra $40."

"Brake issues consistently each year for the past 8 years. Calipers sticking, rotors resurfaced and replaced continually."

"Resurfaced front and rear rotors and replaced pads"

"Mainly happens when cold outside; live in northern wisconsin"

"Had to replace brake pads"

"Loud squealing sound when turning car on, usually louder when wet outside, brand new timing chain that has been checked and is fine. Loud squealing when new brakes are stepped on, also have been checked several times"

"The brakes have been squealing for a long time. Not a problem except it's annoying in spring and fall when windows are open. Replacing the brake pads last july didn't fix the squeal. Then in November, there was a stranger rattling noise, which turned"

"Break pads were wearing down which caused squeaking"

"Pulling to the left, may have caused uneven tire wear, specifically, tire "chop.""

"alignment and control arms"

"alignment rods froze....replaced"

"My wife found that the CR-V tended to not track very well when driving. It tended to pull either to the right or left as she drove. This problem continued after multiple realignments and various parts such as struts, ball joints, bushings and contro"

"Simple loss of integrity of the boots"

"Replaced inner boots on both sides"

"Ball joints wore out in the front and to be replaced as well as both control arms and bushings"

"needed to be replaced because the grease cover was torn"

"Leaking. Also cracked axle."

"Replaced bushings on front or crv both sides. Just looked and need to replace front driver ball joint. Expected at this milage"

"$30 PART----$600 LABOR"

"Failure of compliance bushings - normal for mileage apparently"

"worn compliance bushings were replaced after advise from service tech"

"bushing broken on steering, very expensive to fix"

"There is a grating sound occasionally when I apply my brakes. I was told I need all my bushings replaced at a cost of about $1,300"

"Needed to replace Lower control arm bushings"

"Brought the car to the dealer - rubber bushings were worn, but because they are integral to the part, had to replace both control arms - $1400? Again, I think this is an engineering flaw - parts should be made to be changed out easily without excessive expense for either the part or the labor!"

"They were worn and causing vibration."

"Rubber Lower Aontrol Arm bushing reached end-of-life, required replacement."

"had dealer look car over prior to new tires. found wear on some parts. there had been no indication of any problem."

"They say power steering fluid is leaking and or needs replaced. No idea why or how"

"Power steering pump started making noise, my mechanic said it was going bad. I had it replaced with a rebuilt unit"

"Steering pump and other related parts had to be replaced. Parts are expensive!"

"I don't think this was a problem. What I also had done was to replace the external drive belt and motor fan"

"Bearing in power steering pump failed. Loud squeal. Drove 3 miles to the nearest Honda service center. Pump was replaced the next morning. Back on the road the afternoon after the failure."

"I HAD TO CHANGE PIPES"

"Power steering pump failed. As best I recall this was the original so no big complaint here."

"jUST TYPICAL WEAR"

"Heard noise coming from front suspension whenever road surface is not smooth especially when going downhill. Dealer's mechanic said all front and rear struts need to be replaced as they're also rusted"

"Care is old. Replaced struts for the first time"

"$1500 repair to the front suspension/shocks/struts. Rear will probably need similar this year"

"Front and back went out, it was costly"

"One strut started leaking and was replaced"

"I have yet to get the repairs done but the suspension has a terrible clunking at all corners. I think it is bushings"

"Mechanic reported weak shocks and needed to replace for inspection"

"broken shock"

"Had to replace front struts"

"Rear struts needed replacement"

"needed replacement"

"Vehicle is driven roughly 200 miles per week over urban and suburban roads that are in poor to fair condition. Problems were not unexpected."

"Had to replace, but after 200.000 miles"

"routine wear--I changed them myself"

"Front struts needed to be replaced."

"Experienced a broken strut while on vacation out of state; caused severe vehicle vibration but the car was drive-able."

"I replaced worn struts myself."

"Just wore out"

"The problem was difficult to find since the bearings were deffective as well"

"I feel as though Honda dealership is gaming me over the last 4 years. I replace struts and that means I have to replace main belt. I never get out of there for under 1800$. This year it was 3200$. In the next breath, I like the car. It is reliable and comfortable enough. That is to say, not luxurious, but I am not offended by noise or road issues. I like that it doesn't talk to me. I do not like that it no longer locks."

"Actual problem was the rear sway bar"

"Had to purchase an aftermarket camber adjustment kit because the suspension has settled over time and Honda did not account for it"

"The left rear spring broke. I have never had a spring failure in over 60 years. The Honda CR-V was driven only on good paved roads, never driven off road, and never had an issue with driving through potholes for example. The spring failed in routine car use."

"Ride got to be like buckboard wagon (or how I imagine such to be) and steering became uncomfortably "loose" to the point of feeling unsafe. Leaking steering controller arm (and cracked bushing) cited by shop as well as worn out struts"

"Vibration & steering placed my daughter, the driver, at risk since we live in rural area with high winding roads and the fact the signs occured shortly after having had the vehicle checked"

"steering wheel vibration associated with torn and leaking inner CV boot and later (during the same 12-month period) a torn right front outer CV boot"

"The shimmy at 65-70 mph is very very noticeable!"

"Expensive fix - axle, brake pads and bushings, suspension bushings,"

"Brake rotor was wharped."

"The tie rods were in bad shape making a lot of noise"

"tie rod end was replaced"

"clunk at certain speeds"

"Just a result of time and wear/tear, not unexpected in a car over 14 years old."

"worn out car is old"

"routine wear"

"Dealer states wheel brains out atonly 90000 miles. Required $1200 to repair. I think it is brakes they repaired"

"Failure of the right front wheel bearing three times!!"

"Expensive fix to get off wheel, it probably due to old rusting problems from former owner"

"Wheel bearing gradually went bad. Cost about $500 to repair"

"Replaced front driver side bearing for the first time"

"Front wheel bearings failed for third time. Steering knuckle was replaced because it may have been causing excess pressure on mechanism. Front suspension and steering mechanisms have been a problem with this vehicle."

"rear gone bad. This type too expensive to replace (over $1,000"