Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

"brake lights have been replaced numerous times but they keep burning out"

"Burned out rear light"

"Brake Light went out"

"Just a burnt out bulb no biggy"

"purchased daylight option. Seller provided inferior mechanism. It burned to a crisp."

"BRAKE LIGHT BULBS BURNED OUT"

"All dash lights dimmed and went out"

"The lighting behind the left half of the dash gauges is out, so watching my speed at night is very difficult"

"Dashboard lights behind the D and the mileage line have gone out. Not serious, but inconvenient"

"mileage indicator stopped working"

"Headlights corroding becoming semi opaque"

"Replaced low beam bulb"

"I bought an aftermarket headlight kit and have had to have some bulbs replaced prematurely"

"Plastic cover of headlights clouded up with aging and reduced the visibility of the headlights"

"Headlights burn out frequently and garage mechanic is statingit is the wire system on the vehicle. No fix is possible"

"Recall for headlight. Dealer said work was done a few years ago. Low beam on right headlight kept blowing , but not the high beam. Honda Greenwich replaced for "free" but car needed ball joints ,etc,etc, and they didn't have another recall part for t"

"The headlights eventually grew yellowed and hazed and had to be replaced this past year. I replaced them with after-market units"

"Corrosion to the wires"

"Outer plastic dulled. tried to fix with commercial cleaner. It didn't work. Mechanic suggests new headlights"

"There was a recall for headlight problem. I missed it so now I will need a factory rep.to pass judgement on whether to fix.problem: must have high beams on to have headlights."

"There seems to be a short in my headlights. In the last 2 years I have had to replace both headlights every 4-6 months. I have never had this problem until recently."

"Headlight sensor had to be replaced. Stopped advising that lights were left on."

"No interior cabin top light. No lights when door is opened. Spoke about getting it fixed-would have to remove entire headliner to find the problem-expensive"

"It had a bad switch and would not always turn on when the door was opened"

"The dashboard lights needed to be replaced. The dome light will not work as the sensor is malfunctioning"

"The interior lights stopped working, and kept blowing fuses. Also blew several light bulbs that backlit the dash, cruise and other buttons/dials"

"The unit switches had short circuits causing repeated bulb failures. Replaced the units from junk cars. Cost was 26.00 dollars. Dealership price for units was over 60.00 dollars"

"Door sensor on drivers side has failed several times due to poor quality of replacement switches. Mechanic said I should expect the switch to fail again"

"90% of the interior lights do not work. We have looked at fuses, etc. It's frustrating."

"The lights on a few of the manual interior buttons like for heat, etc. no longer work."

"Keyless entry failed on driver's door requiring manual locking/ unlocking of all doors"

"Driver,s door stays locked at all times. It cost over $350 to fix"

"the drivers door does not unlock or lock with the fob all the time"

"The electronic door locks on the driver side no longer function using remote. Apparently something called an accuator (??) is a common problem. Several hundred to fix"

"The passenger door and cargo door do not open with the keyless button"

"Stopped working during warmer months (may-oct) only lock/unlock with keys. During colder months (nov-air) started working again. Now dies not function"

"Keyless entry would not activate the driver side door and then passenger side door."

"My husband has experienced numerous times when warning lights kept coming on for no reason"

"Check engine light related to emission system"

"epx light would not go off."

"needs replacing every few years"

"Bushings wore out when travelling on winter roads"

"Came up during a routine service. Car is getting older. I would consider this normal wear."

"Allerted by getting oil change that I had leak.. Took it to my mechanic"

"There is a very minor leak in the power steering system which is not coming from the rack. The leak has not been located."

"Noticed fluid under the car. Found it was a metal tubing leak on the return line. Lots of rust on the line. Cut out the bad tubing and bypassed it with rubber hose. Refilled system. Works fine. Took a few hours and about $20 parts and fluid."

"Started 3 months ago, need to refill reservoir every two weeks, problem not resolved."

"Had Sears Auto replace power steering fluid. Pump started leaking about 6 months later. I believe the did not use the right fluid and it damaged the pump"

"PS fluid return line deeoped a small leak. Replaced for ~$75.00."

"Power steering pump locked up and failed. Had to be replaced at my cost. I believe this exact same part was recalled in Acuras, but not Hondas"

"Dealer wanted to replace the whole thing. Independent service said the hose clamps were leaking and wanted to replace them. Whats wrong with some fluid with stop leak?"

"Pump leaking. dealer installed rebuilt pump. Had independent shop install new hose because cost at dealer was excessive. Hose flow was restricted and damaged rebuilt pump. Dealer installed another rebuilt pump and later discovered flow restriction in hose. Dealer installed new hose"

"Power steering pump failed."

"strut were starting to leak"

"Struts worn out at 157k miles. I think it is normal to expect to have to replace struts with this many miles on them"

"Strut had snapped, most likely due to wear and the bad road conditions caused by this past winter in the northeast. It cost over $800 to fix this problem, which is a significant hit to our budget. But, it is cheaper than buying a new car"

"The front right shock was leaking which needed to replaced not an emergency"

"Struts needed to be replaced, not unexpected in a 16 year old car"

"Wheel bearinga"

"Purchased used from elderly couple, I assume it was run over a curb or through a pothole."

"I deliver mail and this is very hard on suspension. It is quite expensive to replace with something (Honda parts) that will last more than 1 month."

"front struts locked up resulting in $1000 damage when going over a bump"

"Had to replace due to rough ride and uneven tire wear"

"During state inspection I was told that my tires were wearing very unevenly because I needed new struts (one was leaking). I bought new tires to pass inspection and then had the dealer replace my front struts. I consider this a wear item that was not surprising after owning the car for 12 years."

"right front torsion bar broken"

"sway bars were seized"

"Occurs regularly at 59km/hr. Shimmy vibrations but goes away at higher speed. Got new tires and alignment but disinterested change the vibrations. Suspect rear axel"

"All three problems listed were due to age and wear. The cost was around $1000 and if left unprepared could have failed completely and been a safety problem. The car otherwise runs well so I repaired it and it has been fine since."

"No details available, the service advisor advised me that tie rods needed work, apparently not an unusual condition for a car of that age and mileage. They farmed the work out to a specialty shop and now all is well. (I think.)"

"started in early 2019 and it got so bad it wouldn't be safe to drive the car. Problem was resolved after a day or two in the shop."

"I cannot complain about the CRV. Chicago has the worst streets in the country. The sad state of affairs regarding our streets were responsible for the needed repairs. There isn't a vehicle on the planet that's been designed to withstand Chicago's streets. Can't wait to get outta here"

"Normal wear discovered at 110,000 service, required replacement."

"this car eats tires - have gone through numerous sets of tires, alignment is never accurate and tires wear unevenly"

"Most likely a result of a car over 10 years of age and over 200k miles on it but the bushings, tie rods, struts, etc all started to go which impacted the wear on the tires. It wasn't all at once though, it would be one thing then another and then another which was just all very frustrating and expensive."

"The tire wear was uneven because I did not get an alignment for 6 months after new tires. I actually had to replace one tire completely, after only 6 months wear, because the threads were showing."

"Due to poor design, rear tires cannot be adjusted to prevent cupping. Have tried three sets of tires from different manufacturers with same result. Honda should provide adjustable settings for the rear tires. They are available at a very reasonable cost."

"Lots of squeaks and rattles, probably front tire boots. Shocks/springs squeak when going over bumps. Clunking noises around turns"

"knocking noise when going over small bumps, like something is loose. Squeaking noise when starting from a stop position or coming to a stop - shocks?"

"Rattle coming from roof in back storage area"

"Faulty engine mount. Took 2 years and $100s to finally find the problem. If the computer doesn't tell the mechanic what is wrong, they can't find it!!"

"exhaust pipe hitting undercarriage when engine is hot and pipe has expanded"

"Only occurred after several accidents. These are intermittant"

"unknown source"

"Suspension"

"the car is very rattly and "old" sounding"

"Rear thuds and bumping sounds turned out to be the links that connect the rear stabilizer bar"

"End links need to be replaced every 6 months. However crv has >300K miles"

"Control arms bushing required replacing"

"Squeaking on normal shocks on road bumps and pot holes"

"Rattles very noisy due to end links on rear suspension need replacement. Due to age and mileaage on original engine (316000) I dint think it is financially worth repairing."

"Whenever we bring it in for service the sounds always come back within a few weeks. Just bothersome listening to it."

"Have to keep the windows closed or the road/wind noise is deafening-can't even hear the radio if it is on, unable to carry on a conversation"

"This car has always had excessive road noise"

"very noisy"

"Vehicle is too noisy on smooth, paved streets"

"Very noisy interior on highway"

"Difficult to talk when driving"

"High degree of road noise as indicated in CR Review of CR-V"

"There is a lack of sound insulation so the wind whistle and the tire noise comes inside the cabin"

"the wind noise is more road noise. The road noise from day 1 has been very poor. That was a problem CR mentioned back when we originally bought car."

"Variable valve train timing actuator failed. Dealership replaced actuator valve to repair. Approx. cost was 400 dollars"

"Variable valve timing sometimes malfunctions. Replacement of solenoid valve did not correct the problem so expect that the computer is malfunctioning"

"Honda dealer can't figure what the issue is. 1st said motor mount, then said water pump and the car is still making a lot of noise when it starts accelerating"

"Noticed gas smell. Took to dealer for assessment. Had to replace fuel tank and system - expensive repair."

"Corroded oil pan had to be replaced"

"Oil pressure guage leak"

"valve cover gasket Front crankshaft donut"

"gasket had to be changed"

"I had to have the engine clean and they were able to find the leaks, which cost around $400.00"

"unknown source of leak"

"The variable valve timing unit developed a very small leak. It was replaced at the next oil change interval for $420."

"Leaking spool valve, resolved through Honda Dealership. Unable to fix it had to replace the part."

"I had oil leaks diagnosed and repaired after I purchased the vehicle."

"At 285000 miles (just 5000 miles ago) it started leaking around the valve cover/rocker arms at the rate of 1 quart/900 miles"

"Front main crankshaft seal. $8 part, dealer wants $1300 labor to replace"

"The CRV burns around 3-4 quarts of oil between oil changes"

"The oil leak is not coming from where you add oil in the engine, it's coming from some other area - an engine block or something of that nature. The technician at the dealership told me it isn't crucial to have it repaired ASAP"

"Oil sensor was replaced. Subsequent oil leak suspected to be due to the sensor replacement."

"I had to replace a front engine seal."

"rubber boots on rear axel"

"Slow burning of oil ( 1 quart every 2-3 months). Dealership can't really find source of leaks even with UV Dye test."

"The car seemed to burn a lot of oil, i have replaced the PCV valve and waiting to see the results."

"the paint on roof of CR-V is peeling,fading,leaving blotchy areas on roof. similar to paint problems on Civics,Accords of that year"

"the trim should be black and it's ash-gray. The color on the body of the car is fading especially on the front hood"

"Paint on hood deteriorated and peeled"

"Paint started chipping with 6 months of purchase leading to rust in chipped areas"

"poor clearcoat-should have not occured at this mileage"

"the clear coat on the driver dside door is peeling away"

"Front driver quarter panel has badly fading paint"

"The hood and the front of the roof has lost all its paint."

"The paint on the hood and rear tailgate is rapidly deteriorating. Seemed to happen all of a sudden. Like the paint job just "gave up""

"Clear coat failing. The paint job on the hood started having issues within the first 5 years"

"paint faded & peeled in certain areas"

"I brought car to be detailed and was advised that the sealant/covering over the white paint was gone and polishing the car would not be worthwhile."

"When I was commuting via crowded freeway, a cement truck dribbled cement spots on my car. I scratched some of it, not knowing what it was, and a big square of paint came off! When I asked for an estimate from a Honda dealer, they peeled MORE off, and said the whole hood would need to be repainted. The dealer was quite unhelpful with this issue."

"clear coat gone in many places"

"The paint cracking, chipping and subsequent rust inthese areas started within the first year of purchase (2004 -2005)"

"Paint is failing on rooftop and hood."

"Paint on the hood has areas where the paint has chipped off."

"The clear covering over the paint no longer exists, the white paint looks dull,could not get it detailed as I was told it would look streaky."

"Rust on the rear hinges and around the bottom of the doors. It just started and will get it fixed this year"

"rust around fuel cap rust at bottom of the doors rust spots on the front of the roof above windshield rust on the rear fenders where bumper is attached to it"

"Rust occurred from the interior of the body around the gas cap."

"Rust around areas - mostly on the hood - where paint had chipped or cracked. Problem was noticed during first year of purchase."

"CC failed. CEL on P0420. $400 to replace as cheapest aftermarket. Dealer wants $1000+"

"After 12 years finally had to touch the exhaust system. There are two sensors (O2) that screw into the exhaust. One came out and was reusable the other could not come out and had to be replaced"

"Leaking exhaust from head of Catalytic converter requiring change"

"Loud exhaust noise"

"I will need to install a new catalytic converter because I am getting a computer code indicative of replacement."

"rust and holes"

"had to replace flange gasket connecting exhaust pipe to catalytic converter"

"B Pipe rotted through. Other pin hole leaks in exhaust piping. Failed Inspection as a result prior to repair."

"Original. Cost about$ 400 , bolts had to be drilled out and holes retapped. Hey, 14 years !"

"heat shield was rattling"

"After 100,000 miles I had trouble with the heat shield, it came loose and was torn off while driving"

"had to replace heat shield, deterated."

"Use screws that do not rust so the heat shields do not fall off"

"Muffler rusted off. it would be considered normal wear"

"this was a manufacture recall"

"The SRS light went on about six years ago. It was reset several times. Ultimately, the dealership said that the wiring harness was bad and needed to be replaced, although they claimed there is just an intermittent short in the wiring, and the SRS is functional."

"Had no problem with the airbags light until I took it in for the recall. Appeared two days after recall work. Dealer claimed problem not due to recall work even though no problems for over ten years."

"Supplemental restraint system warning light came on and took >$2000 and four months to troubleshoot and replace a faulty driver seatbelt sensor."

"Rusted"

"Mid section of exhaust required replacement. 14 years since new. Replaced by dealer in 1 day. Satisfactory repair ~ $800"

"Door locks do not lock on driver' sides"

"Driver side lock failed/broke; had to have that door re-keyed with a separate key in order to avoid huge repair/re-keying all doors"

"left back door does not lock/unlock with remote"

"Driver's door actuator had to be replaced. Remote would not open nor lock the car"

"Car must be opened with key. Driver's side lock replaced for 3rd time, trunk lock for 1st time."

"Driver seat belt does no longer contract"

"Spare tire mounted on rear door, excessive weight, door fails to stay open, door shifted on hinges, caused electrical failure from warning light"

"outer tailgate hinge bolt rusted and had to replace entire hinge"

"The tailgate hinges rusted out making tailgate very hard to open"

"Electric window control failed in open position"

"window regulator and motor failure"

"passenger side window motor & keyfob-lock failed. Had to be replaced"

"paint is peeling on the hood passenger window does not go up evenly"

"CD-player did not work when I purchased, and still does not work."

"CDs became stuck in the player and cannot be ejected"

"CD player does not eject CD, Appears CD is stuck,"

"Display is blank unless it is push hard with a finget"

"Stopped working had to replace it"

"Radio/CD-player didn't work when purchased, and still does not work."

"Engine would suddenly quit"

"Locking mechanism on steering wheel engaged and would not release . First called locksmith who came out and tried to repair the problem by working on the ignition switch. That didnt work . He advised me to contact a steering column repair specialist which I did . He came and removed the locking mechanism and rebuilt it. After putting it all back together it works fine. Total cost: $400 for the locksmith and the steering column work"

"DID NOT SEE THE PROBLEM COMING. GLAD THAT THIS IS MY BACK UP VEHICLE. IT TOOK ME 5 HOURS TO ACCOMPLISH THE REPAIR. THE STARTER WAS BARRIED UNDER A LOT OF ACCESSARIES"

"Starter began to fail some 2 years ago. Installed "junked" starter (noi rebuilt starters available at the time; new starter cost some $900). Recently replacement starter began to fail. It was replaced with a rebuilt starter"

"Wore out. Weak starting"

"starter slowly died until it wouldn't start and I had to get it towed Very expensive labor costs because one bolt is tucked behind the manifold. $400 starter - $800 labor cost!"

"Clutch started slipping and got worse over a 2 week period. Finally had to take it in to be replaced."

"fingers on pressure plate broke and cracked the transmission casing. clutch replace while it was being repaired"

"Pressure plate wouldn’t depress anymore."

"This is the 3rd total transmission replacement required in the CRV since buying it new in December 2003. Honda replaced the first 2 under warranty. The 3rd, because the 2nd replacement was just out of warranty, Honda gave us a discount on the cost s"

"transmission replaced"

"replace drive shaft"

"Vibration above 40 mph"

"the drive shaft from the transaxle to the rear differential had a lot of wear in both U-joints, The entire shaft had to be replaced for about $1300 because the U-joints are integrated with the shaft. U-joints are usually in expensive"

"u-joint failure resulted in changing whole shaft at a cost of $1100.00"

"the front drive axles started making noise at 268,000 mile they worn down & I preferred to replace before it may have broken. with this level of mileage I don't think unreasonable. Have worn out parts too."

"Transmission sends alert stating there is a problem"

"The Drive light indicator stayed on, when it was in Park position"