Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

“The AC stopped working”

“the Ac compressor imploded which seems to be common. I had a new system installed cost 1800”

“AC compressor failed which commonly takes out the condenser, evaporator and other components. On average, a $3200 repair”

“A/C stopped working. Parts fell out from under the car”

“died. had to replace it”

“AC compressor went out. Cost to repair 800-3000 dollars. Unable to afford repairs at this time”

“some vents do not deliver air flow, probably due to vacuum valve malfunction. I have not requested repairs on this but will when the CRV is in for the lengthy airbag recall work”

“The compressor exploded, sending metal shards thru the system”

“Had to be replaced”

“Complete AC system failure, compressor expoded (88,000 miles) contaminating entire AC system- cost 3K plus to repair and replace all parts- no help from US Honda or Honda dealer- disgusted”

“A/C was blowing only warm air. Honda checkup listed 2-3 possible problems, but for 1/3 the cost had independent mechanic repair with complete success”

“It quit working and had to be replaced”

“We have had to replace the condenser twice. The other person I know who had a 2003 also had to replace their compressor. I think this was a design problem with this model”

“Compressor failed twice. This should be an item for recall but not sure why Honda doesn't issue this recall. Even NY Times have an article about it”

“Chronic problem; have replaced two compressors and evaporator and condenser”

“Compressor replaced about two,years ago by my local garage, got another $175.00 from Honda . Now it's blowing warm and will find out next week what the problem is”

“Compressor clutch seized causing serpentine belt to break. I have been told that a special service bulletin had been issued on this matter but that my crv was past the date,also it may only have applied to the U.S”

“just went out”

“AC refrigerant leaked and need to replace unit”

“The compressor stopped working”

“2nd time the AC compressor has failed. Remedy is to replace the whole AC system”

“Had replaced the AC system approx three years ago. Honda sold me the same compressor that had failed. They did not recommend using an aftermarket brand that was more reliable. Three years later the compressor failed again. Very dissatisfied with Hond”

“Compressor was struck by road debris as was the condenser, causing total failure of both units. Compressor had been replaced due to routine failure approx. 4 years previously. Poor location or lack of protection to shield items from road debris”

“compressor stopped working. changed for a rebuilt and all is good”

“I've had the air conditioning system replaced TWICE (by original dealer and by Honda service center) and that seems excessive for seven years”

“Was told they coulnd not guarantee the repair because there were bits of metal in the system. I was also told that the AC was a common problem with this mode”

“It cost around $1,600.00 to repair the A/C system”

“Not as cold as it use to be. Honda dealer in Tarrytown NY not competent / experienced enough to fix problem”

“failed and very expensive to repair”

“Compressor had a complete failure. Compressor was replaced”

“Had to replace compressor twice in last 8 years. I think there was a recall but did not hear about it until it was too late”

“It failed at about 94000 miles”

“The A/C compressor stopped working and I had to replace it with a new one”

“The A/C unit on this vehicle failed due to a widespread problem with 2002-2006 CRVs dubbed "the black death" wherein the AC compressor explodes and destroys/contaminates all the rest of the AC unit. It is a very expensive repair. There is numerous documentation online about this”

“Leaks from compressor”

“AC broke and needed to be replaced”

“Compressor shattered internally; replaced with EBay compressor. Time will tell”

“The compressor stopped working properly. I had to replace it”

“I have had to replace the compressor twice since buying brand new in 2004. First time in June 2009 then again in May 2016. First time, just stopped working. Second, realized it was starting to go out; had it replaced before it could”

“In 2010 the compressor was replaced with a new one”

“A/c not working well , just started after 10 years”

“Heat car solely through gravity. Fan worked intermittently”

“Had to replace the Heater/AC Blower Resistor Assy”

“The blower takes several seconds to kick on and when it does (when the AC is on) it dramatically reduces the performance/pick up of the engine”

“The blower failed to work, therefore, I could not get either cold or warm air in the car. It turned out to be a sensor, that was pretty inexpensive to fix”

“stopped working”

“AC compressor failed which commonly takes out the condenser, evaporator and other components. On average, a $3200 repair”

“The air conditioner malfunctioned and lost its cooling capacity. A Honda mechanic determined that a switch assembly had failed. He repaired it. The cooling system has worked well since then”

“Not sure if it was a leak, but servicer said that air had gotten into the system. Purged and refilled, which worked for a while. Then the fuse to the heat exchanger fan blew. Replaced and worked again, then slowly began to stop cooling. Unfixed at th”

“Had a recurring problem with the A/C freezing up ,eventually it quit blowing cold air. The shop found a leak which they said was the origin of the problem”

“Apparent refrigerant leak resulted in loss of cooling. Refrigerant is being replaced”

“Unable to hold refrigerant despite repair efforts”

“Very slow leak.. first time since owning (6years) that had to recarge freon”

“Blows warm air except on coldest sewtting”

“Same issues with compressor. Once compressor was replaced, refrigerant stopped leaking”

“Right rear caliper stuck”

“Original rear brake calipers replaced. Left rear was not releasing properly and was wearing brakes unevenly. Rear brake rotor rusted and was also replaced”

“calipers sticking, leading to premature wear and replacement”

“1 froze up and had to be replaced. 100000 miles seems fair”

“one of the calipers was sticking causing premature brake pad failure”

“2004 Honda CRV appears to have problems with brake calipers- I've replaced all 4 calipers twice in 88,000 miles”

“One of the calipers would not release properly, resulting in it digging into the brake pad and wearing it down rapidly”

“Right front caliper seized up, had to be replaced”

“For a low mileage car, expensive replacement”

“Calipers ceased on three wheels, requiring replacement”

“Caliper stuck, causing premature wearing of rotor and ceramic brake pads”

“Needed replacement on two wheels. Needed replacement of another several years ago. Three of the four calipers have been replaced in this vehicle”

“The caliper for the right front tire was sticking and needed to be replaced along with the brake pads for the wheel”

“Calipers seized”

“Brakes have been replaced 5 times since i owned this car”

“"Seized" front brake caliper”

“Loose and noisy”

“frozen caliper resulting in scored rotor”

“Froze. Rear right”

“The master cylinder needed to replaced. The brakes on the car have always seemed mushy to me, but not my wife. Putting a new master cylinder in didn't really change much so I assume that's the way the brake system was designed”

“The master cylinder failed. It was replaced and all is fine. I hate to sell my car as it had been so dependable”

“REPLACE PADS AND HAD ROTORS TURNED”

“Replace rear pads & rotor”

“pads &”

“brakes worn from normal wear”

“At 85,000. miles the mechanic said the brake pads on the from were worn down and should be replaced very soon which I did immediately”

“Needed to replace brakes and had to have work done on the rotors”

“At 150k+ miles the brakes were done. As far as we know those were the original brakes on the car”

“The right rear brakes have frozen and scored the rotors twice. None of the other wheels have had a problem”

“Front brakes do not last long, adding new rotors and pads made issues go away, but quickly started to wear out once again”

“Stuck caliper caused premature pad wear”

“left front brake failure. Whole brake must be rebuilt”

“defect in calipers not retracting leads to premature wear”

“Constantly replacing breaks almost every year. Do not drive enough to warrant this issue”

“Rear calipers are regularly dragging and brake pads only last an average of 30,000 km”

“Rear brakes only lasted about 20K, requiring rotors and pads”

“Calipers kept locking and wearing out the brakes”

“have had brake problems from year 4. goes thru brakes and rotors like crazy and i do not drive the car that much”

“REPLACED PADS”

“The brakes just wore out after 160000 miles no brake problems before that”

“Front and rear brakes needed replacement”

“Leaks in two places in brake lines requiring replacement of lines due to corrosion”

“these were replaced in the rear by Firestone and kept rusting and rubbing making noise when turning. After four times bringing it in and additional cost they were able to remove most of the noise”

“Backing out of garage there is a dragging noise when applying brakes. Dealer says no problem, condensation in garage. Noise goes away when driven forward and does not come back until the next day when backing out of the garage again. Annoying!!!”

“The car sat unused for more than 30 days at a time during the winter with ice and snow so the rotors rusted, pitted and warped. Had to replace all 4 rotors and install new front brake pads”

“Needed replacements”

“Lots of wear even with low mileage”

“Rear rotors failed with little to no warning, according to dealership assessment. Had to replace on the spot as was told it was dangerous to drive”

“The vehicle sits outside 24/7, if there is cold or wet weather, there is always a grinding or squeaking noise for a couple of days with the brakes”

“replaced front brakes, the squeal is from the rear brakes & the mechanic says they don't need replacing. Squeal when in reverse”

“sounded like something rubbing when in reverse”

“charcoal canister replacement”

“Check engine light remains on. Had a licensed mechanic troubleshoot the problem. Appeared to be fixed and then the check engine light came on again. Seems to be an ongoing problem with this car”

“fuel evaporation control valve on charcoal canister failed and had to be replaced. canister also had to be replaced as control device impossible to remove do to corrosion”

“EGR canister replaced twice in 4 years”

“Ck engine light inform EGR is bad”

“Failed emissions several times despite multiple repairs of emissions control modules. Leak in gas lines at the tank requiring removal of tank”

“Got a engine malfunction indicator light. Two months after a Honda dealer reset the light and said everything was OK, I got the same warning light. Took it to a local mechanic who discovered a cracked gas cap and replaced it. No problem since”

“Multiple sensor issues in past year: P1077, P0325, P0661”

“Needs a new catalytic converter”

“Failed twice, one under warranty one not”

“Broken. Needed replacing. Engine light went on”

“Have had 2 sensors, valves replaced and still have not been able to get the problem resolved. Check engine light still on. The diagnostics don't seem to be specific enough to pinpoint the problem. So they tackle the most likely problem area first”

“engine warning sensor came on”

“downstream o2 sensor triggered the CEL”

“Failed Maryland Emissions Test”

“Sensor light keeps coming on. Dealer checked OK. Open gas cap and sensor light goes out. One week later sensor light comes back on. Open gas cap and sensor light goes out. Annoying!! Of course dealer will replace what is needed to remedy situation-”

“Most unreliable and expensive to replace (twice). Dealer charges exorbitant”

“It was a block sensor and affected the smoothness of gas utilization. It cost about $250 to repair”

“Expensive for such a little item”

“easy to replace myself”

“Needs replacement in NH every year to pass mandated inspection”

“Front o2 sensor failed and is to expensive to replace, particularly at the dealer's”

“A problem with the pollution control system. Problem rectified”

“The oxygen sensor failed and had to be replaced at a cost of about $800”

“Anti knock sensor stopped working”

“Check engine light on dash was on. Diagnosis was "Needs ELD, Needs canister assembly - leaking" "Electronic load detector - Remove & replace. Evaporator control canister & vent valve - Remove & replace"”

“The check engine light kept coming on. The mechanic replaced a sensor, I believe”

“Both O2 sensors failed, to fix this is was necessary to replace the catalytic converter”