Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

“AC System would not cool. Honda Repair Shop determined that the Compressor was faulty and replaced it”

“Failed. Dealer replaced under special warranty”

“AC stopped working on hottest day”

“A/C stopped working and cost between $300 - $400 to fix. I am pretty sure it was the A/C compressor”

“AC would randomly fail to work”

“AC has stopped working 2 times in the last 5 years. Both times it cost about $300 to fix and we were told it was a Computer/Electrical problem”

“Air quit working at 103000 mi. Had diagnosed at 2 different shops. Both said bad compressor. Cost was averaging $1400. Honda would not cover any expense. Did not repair. Will probably get another vehicle soon”

“replaced compressorand”

“Had to replaced the A/C compressor”

“air conditioning would work after start up but would then stop working "freeze up" after being on for a very short period of time, and you would only get warm air. Honda dealer diagnosed the problem as a faulty a/c compressor and I had it replaced”

“Stopped working. Dealer replaced at no charge to me. No problems since. I spend much of year in Florida. Used air cond a lot. Did very little driving in snow”

“System failed to cool. The problem was faulty electronics”

“A/C failure due to bad compressor”

“There was a warranty extension on the ac/compressor but had run out on my 2008 Honda. The dealership worked with Honda and got our repair bill cut in half. Very happy with the service from our dealership and with Honda's ability to reduce our bill”

“failure of compressor clutch, required replacement”

“Strange intermittent noise heard for months; mechanic said bring in when made the noise but too inconsistent. When A/C eventually died, mechanic found Compressor dead, clutch coil/plate bad. Honda knew problem, issued "bulletin" but no recall”

“Compressor failed and required replacement at my expense. A/C clutch had previously been replaced under recall warranty”

“The power to one component was fading--something about a clutch. That part is not sold separately but requires an entire replacement. Very expensive”

“had same problem with 2003 crv their was a recall and they did reembursed for the repair retroactively seems like its a defect that occurs around 100000 miles”

“A/C system completely failed to operate in the spring. Compressor needed replacing at cost of $1600 (parts & labor)”

“Air conditioning failed in Arizona. Kingman Honda charged $105 for diagnosis, then wanted $1,700+ to fix, but DID NOT tell us that there was a recall on the failed A/C clutch which would have fixed the problem FOR FREE. Long story; Mark 5093429320”

“A/C quit working. Compressor was locked up and required replacing”

“Clutch in air conditioner system went bad. Later learned it was a recall and Honda refunded money spent to repair”

“The compressor went bad at only 69000 miles. Ridiculous.To replace and get warranty, a filter kit must also be repaired - An $1100 repair on a car with this mileage?”

“Compressor clutch went out and had to be replaced”

“Recall on the A/C”

“Lost cooling. Took to dealer after researching issue discovered TSB and extended recall. they replaced solenoid and compressor clutch and covered it under recall even thought it was past mileage. No issues since. Kudo's to Honda”

“The A/C compressor stopped working”

“Purchased this used vehicle December 2014. Was assured that everything had been checked and worked. Tried the AC for the first time recently. Air blows, but is not cool. Have appointment to determine the issue. Car dealer refuses to fix it”

“Clutch on the Compressor was replaced at 93000 miles under warranty”

“replaced under extended Giego insurance coverage. Then Honda had recall & reimbursed us the $50 deductible”

“the air conditioner clutch failed. It was repaired free due to a previous recall”

“Part of compressor failed. Honda replaced free of charge under courtesy/secret warranty”

“My AC stopped working and my car is out of warrantee The dealership repaired the car for a Very reasonable price - I am very happy with Honda”

“AC went out”

“I had to replace the A/C clutch at no cost since it was still under the 7 years warranty in April 2015”

“Failure of AC Clutch - endemic to these CRV's. First dealer tried to tell us it was a power steering pump failure and more ($2600 est). Second dealer replaced at N/C under warranty (1 month left)”

“Stopped working while in extended warrenty. Fixed for free. Failed again 12 months and 3 days later. Honda said 'not covered' and had to pay $1200”

“System failure, had to be replaced”

“Compressor clutch bearing”

“Air conditioning stopped working suddenly”

“Found out it was a common problem on all cr-v. A/C has extended warranty but wasn't told and I have since exceeded warranty. Replaced with aftermarket. No point in using a Honda one with known problems”

“The compressor failed at 95000 miles and Honda replaced the unit at no charge under an extended warranty”

“Total failure without warning or any indications of a problem”

“Compressor clutch. Well known Honda CR-V problem. Honda extended warranty to 7 years & 100K miles to help address this problem”

“Repair was covered under an extended warranty - the extended warranty was Consumer Reports”

“Stopped working. Honda repaced it on an extended warranty”

“One day the AC just stopped working. The fan was working but there was hot air coming out. I had it fixed immediately and it was very expensive. Other than that problem, I love the car”

“Compressor failed at the end of a cross country drive”

“It went out with in 100 miles of warrenty”

“Honda had recall on A/C; repairs could not be performed because of family matter. A/C failed several months later”

“Quit cooling this year. Needs fixed”

“Cooling system began operating intermittently. When it was cooling it would get the air coming out of the registers to 40F, but then it might stop for as much 20 minutes before coming on again. Turned out that the clutch was not working correctly. Since the unit is 9 years old, I opted to replace the whole compressor/clutch assembly rather than just the clutch”

“Needed to replace the A/C compressor unit”

“Air conditioner clicks on and off at different times. Cannot pinpoint the problem. Now I never touch the controls other than the fan speed. It seems to be working. I leave the temp. control button on cold all the time”

“Compressor quit working and had to replace”

“Had to replace entire ac system”

“AC quit cooling. Took to private shop who diagnosed a problem with the compressor. They replaced the compressor”

“The compressor clutch coil needed to be replaced”

“The compressor clutch went out at about 70,000 miles. There had been extention of factory coverage to 7 years due to part failures. We had our car for 8 years before the AC failed”

“A/C compressor went out and was replaced at dealership with a remanufacture unit that had a longer warranty than a new part”

“AC stopped working had to be replaced”

“Failure to cool Blows HOT air”

“No longer functional. Needed to replace whole unit”

“A/C Compressor failed. This caused the serpentine belt to also fail”

“Not blowing out cold air”

“dealer replaced, no charge”

“AC failed completely on the hottest days of the year. Expensive repair”

“AC stopped working last summer. Had it recharged. It worked for another month. Now, 8 months later, it is not working again, so I assume it's the compressor. The radiator shop where I took it told me the CRVs often need the compressors replaced”

“Compressor failed, was replaced”

“A/c wasn't working at all. Compressor was replaced”

“BURNED OUT CLUTCH.cOMMON PROBLEM FOR CRV”

“Experienced the "Black Death" issue with the A/C system. Required replacement of the compressor and evaporator, plus a full flush, evacuate, and recharge”

“clutch failure”

“A/C failed about 5000KM out of extended warranty. I guess Honda planned this well”

“The compressor stopped working after 7 years and 6 months. Since my extended warranty expired 6 months earlier , I called American Honda to see if they would cover any of the repair cost They offered to cover Eighty five percent of the repair costs I accepted”

“Had to replace compressor”

“Total failure of. Compressor”

“The compressor was not working when we bought the car 4 years ago. This past year it also seized (stopped spinning) causing the serpentine belt to overheat and break”

“Compressor Clutch would not engage and hot air would blow”

“Stopped working. Needed to be replaced”

“A/C stopped working last summer. Compressor is shot”

“A/C stopped working. Had to replace the A/C compressor. Thought it would be covered under re-call or technical service bulletin, but Honda didn't allow it”

“Recall repair”

“Intermittent failure of Ac system. I fixed myself by replacing a relay. Before, the Ac compressor and clutch had to be replaced”

“My 9th anniversary was highlighted by a $1500.00 bill for the A/C... costly because compressor unit and condenser are one unit... Honda did extend it's warranty to 175,000kms or 10 years to address issues with A/C system”

“Replaced”

“Original compressor stopped working. New one installed”

“compressor locked up, sprewed metal into the blower and had to be completely replaced”

“Relay stuck closed; freon low”

“AC blows hot air unless it is turned off for a few minutes and then reset. Dealer says it is working fine”

“Not cooling properly”

“Not exactly auto climate control, but seems best category. Windshield fogs when AC cycles off, then clears when AC cycles on. Dealer claims operation is normal”

“computer module was faulty and was replaced”

“Replaced condenser”

“Again condenser arm issue broke right after extended warranty ran out. Honda did cover all but deductible”

“It was the radiator for the cooling system. It got a hole in it”

“We had to replace the clutch and coil, and have the system recharged. Total cost was $1010.00. It was upsetting because it failed after the extended warranty for this part”

“Ac froze up. Required $400 service. No further problems”

“Failure of compressor relay”

“electronic relay failed. $140 to repair”

“Relay switch went out on the air conditioning”

“passenger side door lock actuator and the a/c compressor has not worked steadily”

“the switch that turns the A/C on failed. It cost $800.00 to replace”

“Replaced Compressor relay switch”

“Evaporator leak”

“No heat was coming out of the vents. Something was blocking the vents, even though the car was producing heat”

“2 leaks one in the condenser and the other in a refrigerate line”

“sudden loss of a/c on a trip only to find out that it had leaked during the trip; problem reported as a pin hole leak in the condenser that could have been caused by road debris”

“looses refrigerant every 12 mo. Dealer can't find leak and just recharges”

“AC stopped working recently. I took it to local dealership yesterday. They were unsure how to solve problem but replaced coolant with added dye in case leakage was source of problem. AC still not working. Back to dealership on Monday. First big probl”

“Leak has not yet been located”

“Lost collant for the second time since 2013. Dealer said tant it was due to NORMAL evaporation of the coolant. I Feel tant I am being misled and the problem is NOT normal.the first time, they had To replace on warenty a major component costing about 1,000 $”

“Loss of refrigerant is slow and hard to detect. Needs recharged after one year. No great surprise due to high mileage”

“A/C was blowing hot air. Refrigerant was low, and the relay switch had to be replaced. Cost $400.00”

“See before...all relating to lock mechanism”

“Our door wouldn't lock, had it repaired, then got a recall notice. We took it to Honda, who did the repair for all the doors. We hope to get a refund from the class action that we received in the mail”

“the power lumbar support stopped working”

“The remote lock/unlock for the front and rear right side door locks stopped working correctly”

“Keeps losing 3 mins. I finally just set it 3 ahead and it's good now”

“The control button that sets the cruise speed failed to stay set (mechanical problem with the button)”

“Cluster in imstrument panel is bad. Normal problem for this model”

“had to have the low beam bulb replaced”

“Have had to have front brake light replaced 2-3 times since purchasing the car”

“Left headlamp required adjustment”

“Both Running & Left Head Light Had To Be Replaced In The Last 12 Months”

“The heater in the driver's seat doesn't work. Only the top or the bottom works, but not both at the same time. When they are working it doesn't produce very much warmth. I'm not having it fixed”

“The heaters in both the driver and front passenger seats failed almost simultaneously”

“The overhead light burns out. It has been replaced once, but it did not work. No one seems to know what the problem is to be able to fix it”

“Lights and locks constant problem”

“lights would not go out when driving”

“Stopped working, even when replacing with a new light bulb. Smacking it once or twice temporarily fixes it”

“I have problems with the interior lights. The bulbs frequently burn out and the Honda dealer wants $25.00 per bulb to replace them. I end up at O'Reillys buying my own”

“Interior lights no longer work. Also the rear passenger unlock mechanism issues a loud shriek when the auto unlock button is activated”

“Faulty lock switches, which Honda sent out a recall. Unfortunately, my car was broken into before the notice came out that brought the problem to my attention”

“The keyless entry and locking system failed. I could not lock the car using the keyless system. PLUS I could not lock the car or unlock the car from inside the car. It cost me $500 to replace two locking actuators one in the drivers front and one”

“door locks had an issue which was fixed under a recall”

“I had to fight with Honda and they made me pay over $300 for the replacement of 4 door lock solenoids. They said that my car was not within a recall. Now I am part of a call action suit. Recently Honda has issued a recall on my car and said I will be”

“Door locks randomly and repeatedly re lock after you unlock them”

“Lock mechanism broke off inside of the door”

“Trouble with the driver side electronic door lock - opening and closing on their own. Honda issued a recall notice for this and it was recently fixed”

“driver keyless entry latch replaced”

“In past 2 years, I have had to replace the automated switch for door locks because they have malfunctioned. On one occassion the doors automatically locked when I had the keys in the ignition and the engine running. I believe that Honda has a settlem”

“locked failed on driver door”

“The locks failed on 3 out of 4 doors. The cost was over 700 to repair all three - they didn't happen all at once. Rec'd the notice of the recall just a couple of months ago. We sent in all of the repair paperwork to see if we can get reimbursed”

“the motor on one of the electric door locks was 'failing', making a ratcheting sound. the motor was replaced”

“Driver door lock opens automatically without summons after car is started and doors have locked. Car will sometimes not stay locked when locking the car with key fob. Car alarm sounds intermittently without provocation”

“Locks don't always lock with key fob. Locks repeatedly lock and unlock as you are driving. Alarm goes off when you hit lock twice”

“The door lock actuator in the front passenger door had to be replaced. It was locking/unlocking the doors anytime I came to a stop or slowed down below 5mph. I had to get it repaired ASAP as I did not want to get locked in or out of my car. I was a bit disappointed I had to pay for it, as it was over $400 and a few years ago there was a recall for the driver door lock for the same issue. So it is a known Honda issue with the door lock actuators”

“When you try to lock the doors remotely, the rear doors won't lock and the right rear door makes a loud buzzing sound. When you accelerate, the doors try to automatically lock and the same thing occurs”

“worst locking system ever. When I bought it emergently since my pilot was totaled, I asked the salesperson why the car locks kept going off and on. She said it was a safety feature. I have had to have the lock system repaired twice, once through a recall and the car still locks itself even with the keys in it!”

“Usually, the TPMS sign will be on when the engin is cold. However, my CRV TPMS is shown after driving 20 miles and will disappear after another 10 miles. Very strange”

“Indicator on dash indicating the tire monitor is not functioning”

“It has me we worked right”

“The sensor light comes on after about 25 miles regardless of the speed or outside temperature, especially after a bump. It may stay on for several days and finally go off. It's been "repaired" twice”

“The TPMS light comes on intermittently. I didn't know until I inquired with the service department that this is likely due to the battery in one of the TPMS sensors. I'll wait until the light is on full-time before I pay to have it fixed. No one told me that these batteries don't last for the life of the car”

“TPMS seems to be a constant problem even with replacement of the specific valves”

“tire pressure light goes on intermittently when there is no problem with pressures”

“The engine warning light won't turn off despite paying more than $3K in repairs to 3 different mechanics who assure me there is nothing actually wrong. This makes it very difficult to get the car smog check”

“I had 3 warning light on, now I just have 1, passenger airbag”

“A plug in the wiring system went bad causing multiple warning indicator lights (TPMS,ABS & others) to remain on constantly. Problem took over a month to properly diagnose and repair”

“Rear wiper motor had to be replaced”

“Rear wiper stopped working. Required new motor -- motor replaced”

“Rear wiper motor failed”

“replaced rear wiper motor due to slow or stiff movement of the wiper blade. replaced with genuine Honda motor assembly $133.00”

“Rear calipers were hydraulically frozen to rotors causing serious damage to both calipers and rotors”

“For some reason ,the break pads and calipers wear very quickly along with tires”

“My wife smelled brake odor coming from the rear drivers side. The hub cap was red hot--”

“Discovered that the calipers were wearing through the disks/”

“Uneven wear on rear brakes due to one caliper failing”

“Was not aware of need until I bought set of tires”

“Leak”

“It froze and needed to be replaced”

“Needed new rotors and pads on all wheels”

“As you stated above, I only experienced normal wear and tear on my CR-V's brakes. Nothing that worried me. I was told at a regular service check up at the dealership that my brakes needed fixing. So I went ahead and had the job done”

“I started gradually losing brakes after 91000 miles. After a few weeks of loss of brakes, I took it to a dealer for a complete brake job. New pads, rotors turned, everything is fine”

“In my opinion the brakes should have not needed repair at the mileage at which they failed”

“Brakes required new front and back rotors and calipers for the first time”

“Read brake pads”

“Change rear brake after 84000 km”

“the rear brakes have always been loud. Routine inspections found them to be normal, and replacements were within range of expectations”

“NORMAL BREAK WEAR”

“Brake locked causing all sorts of problems”

“Parking brake would not disengage (4 times) before fixing - cable replaced”

“Parking brake never properly adjusted after repeat visits to Honda, pass. side rear wheel parking brake sticking, smell of smoke and a hot wheel”

“honda did not provide important data on rear brakes, in particular, enhanced maintenance”

“Rear brakes froze up twice within 18 months. Had to replace rotors, pads and recondition calipers twice in that time frame”

“rear brakes need replacing about every25000”

“The problem was replacing the wheel bearing on the left rear brakes. Previously (over a year ago) the right wheelbearing needed replacing. This expense was over $200 for each repair”

“brakes wt soft. Dealership estimated 40 %. Told me no need to replace brake disks yet”

“Needed to change the calipers and break pads on all four wheels after only 20000 miles”

“Calipers hung up on rear brakes causing rotors to be redone And new brake pads”

“Pad detached on left rear, scored the disk”

“Vehicle goes through a lot of brake pads and rotors”

“front brake pads worn. replaced pads and calipers”

“Time to replace brakes”

“Normal use & wear”

“Breaks became squishy and failed within minutes. Live in mountains - windy roads - sheer drop. No warning before that day”

“excessive rust”

“Front brake pads wore down, scored rotors”

“After a long trip, I heard a "thumping" sound which increased with acceleration. The technician suggested that both rear rotors be replaced before returning home”

“Vibration and noise”

“Rotors were replaced due to calipers hanging up”

“They rust and wear out quickly”

“I had a complete front brake job a year ago, meaning new brake pads and rotors. This was the first time I replaced the rotors since purchasing the car. Within six months the rotors went bad. The car would shudder when I stepped on the brake and the steering wheel would vibrate when I stepped on the brake. My mechanic said the rotors must have been defective. He machined them and reinstalled them and that solved the problem. The pads were still fine”

“The vehicle seems to go through a lot of brake services and each time the pads get changed the dealer says the rotors need replacing”

“rear rotors and linings/pads routine replacement”

“Have been told I will need to get new rotors on front or have them machined down. Then get new calipers”

“Rock in baking plate of right rear wheel”

“I am very sound sensitive - have found the car noisy in general and more so as it ages”