Subaru Outback

"I had to have the fuel pump replaced. On the Ford Focus I had to have the power steering pump serviced and the system flushed"

"Leaking fluid from fittings"

"Although, it's leaked for years, my mechanic has been able to keep it under control. He does say eventually I'll have to have the power steering replaced. Please...it's a 14 year old car. She doesn't owe me a thing! I love this car!"

"Lost total power steering due to failure of pump"

"Original equipment lasted 197000 miles and 16 years- AMAZING. Decided to replace as we want the car to continue performing safely and intend to keep it on the road"

"They wore out"

"Right rear strut corroded and broken Dealer claimed the whole assembly wouyld have to be replace. A private garage was ablt to loosen parts and replace only those needed at a lower price that the dealer"

"Car swayed a great deal when it hit any unevenness in the road, creaked and shook"

"Replaced Right front axle due to leaking C/V boot."

"struts needed replacement due to wear"

"Front spring broke - punctured the tire"

"Leaking and seems to drift a bit"

"Rack and pinion replaced with new"

"The dealer sold me the car knowing about this problem but not disclosing it . It was making squealing sounds and just not steering properly . It was diagnosed by a different mechanic than the original dealer and I had to replace the rack and Pinion and the power steering pump."

"Many rounds of balance and vibration including alignment, and replacing steering rack and balancing tires"

"Tie rods were in need of replacing. 2nd time in life of car"

"The tie rod end was loose and worn so I had to get it replaced"

"Boot on both tie rods leaked (seal broken). Instead of replacing just the boot, mechanic said it is standard practice to replace the tie rods as well."

"Noise on turning --badly worn wheel bearings on the left side"

"a sudden decline in in the integrity of the wheel bearing led to damage to the axle, and brake system."

"Serious water leaks in trunk ( hatch back area). Had this problem in the past. At that time it was from the sunroof, And was expensive to have it tested and repaired. Don't know where it's leaking from this time"

"Had to change the radiator"

"Air leakes around driver's window"

"Bad air noise on driver door over 40 MPH. bad water leak in cargo area during rain"

"fixed radiator in 2009 when timing belt broke (not milage but 6 years since last change) had to have it worked on and will replace soon"

"Around moon roof. Had to be sealed, made unUSble"

"We had water leaking inside the back of the interior from what I believe was caused by the sunroof drains, I took the back interior apart and blew air through the drain hoses. Thanks to google and youtube : )"

"Both the seals and weather-stripping have failed, the car is no longer really water tight"

"Sun roof leaks and water runs into cargo area"

"The seal/weather stripping on the driver and passenger doors, as well as the tail lift door allow air and moisture in. The sunroof also leaks. When snow on the car melts off, the water leaks through the front dome light onto the console. The water al"

"wind noise from window seals leaking is terrible. cannot hear radio at highway speeds."

"windows had insufficent insulation and & had no cage to run in"

"wind noise is a result of the weakening where the front windows insert into a stabilizer on both front doors. The stabilizers wear out and allow wind noise"

"Wind noise when driving 50+MPH and some other noise of unknown origin at highway speeds 60+MPH"

"It's pretty loud on the highway, it seems to come from the drivers side front window. I have to turn the radio up loud. All I can say is, 'so what?'"

"driver's side window towards upper front of window some how always has wind noise while traveling and no one can figure it out"

"Driver's side and passenger side mirrors, where the mirror met the A-pillar, there is some kind of vortex, or venturi effect happening that creates an annoying sound"

"The insulation around the door frames covering. came loose & the glass in the door has no covering."

"Failed due to age - replaced"

"Old age"

"When we take our car for its emissions test every other year, it fails. We take it to a repair place, where we are told that the catalytic converter, among other things, is failing to meet emissions standards. They make $80 worth of repairs, which"

"Presumably due to normal wear and tear, the exhaust system developed a few leaks and had to be replaced"

"Exhaust has become increasingly louder over the past few months. Estimated $700 to replace. I have not had repair done"

"For last several years, when temp is below about 30 degrees, I have a strong exhaust smell in the cabin. Dealer says they run rich when started but this continues. Have to keep heater on recirculate to keep from asphyxiating"

"most likely just an age / mileage issue as the entire exhaust system had to be replaced and, as the parts are only available "OEM" seemed quite expensive. But after 13 years and c. 200,000 km, this may well be an entirely reasonable replacement"

"rust issues"

"Muffler was the original and needed to be replaced"

"The exhaust system is original. I have retired it by welding. I am told in one year I will need a whole new exhaust system"

"replacement muffler only lasted 2 years"

"Resonator fell off car. Exhaust flanges had to be repaired. Had to replace muffler and resonator."

"see previous answer"

"Have had some rusting issues with the mid-pipe especially, but the car did live in upstate New York for a good chunk of its life, so not unexpected"

"exhaust system hangs low: I live with two-rut roads and deep snow that pulls the exhaust system apart at the joints"

"According to my mechanic, the crank shaft sounds like it is knocking. Due to the age of the vehicle and the cost it would take to replace this part, it would not be worth repairing. I have continued to drive it now for several months but the check engine light remains on."

"Random smell of hot raw fuel coming from engine (second time). Hard to find source"

"Hose connection leak"

"Early Marchish, Valve CoverGaskets started to leak,right side more than left. Got Right side replaced, still have minnor leak on left side. A very expensive repair costing about $400 each."

"Garage said I needed to replace the head gasget,but it would be very expensive. I decided not to replce it"

"Head gasket leak. Had the heads resurfaced and new gaskets put in"

"Valve seals replaced. It was a huge job requiring the engine to be removed"

"slow oil leak over past year. replaced gaskets"

"Main seal leak"

"Slight oil leak from one of the head gaskets. Head gasket was previously replaced around 130k miles. I believe this to be a design issue for this engine as Subaru has recommended addition of an oil seal conditioner at every oil change"

"head gasket"

"The car has an oil leak but my son watches it carefully and added something that slowed the leak. It seems under control and runs perfect.y otherwise."

"The motor kept running out of oil."

"Hoses that connect fuel lines to injection rack crack and loosen during cold weather causing intense gas smell in the cabin. Has happened twice in the last 2 years"

"While driving ,the car stopped running"

"Complete failure resulting in being stranded on the road"

"very expensive to replace"

"The car refused to start. Service supervisor reported that the fuel pump was not operating and needed to be replaced"

"Failed while driving on highway"

"Fuel pump failed (in tank)."

"Had to replace sensors"

"sensor went bad and kept the check engine light on. no issue with how the car functioned"

"Check engine light often on due to O2 sensor which was replaced, so now "check engine" light has many different codes when diagnosing for problems, gave up & just have it on all the time now"

"Car "choked" upon purchase in 2004, replaced one or both of sensors ..can't remember. Car ran reliably if with little power uphill in higher altitudes. Currently, check engine light comes on every time we reach a certain altitude. Will eventually"

"Check Engine Light remains on with noone able to fix. Local mechanic, subaru specialist, or dealer"

"The parking brake was loose and needed to be tightened twice"

"The Subaru is a heavy vehicle, i guess i'm not surprised it uses up brakes. We live in 'hilly' country"

"Have replaced brake pads and rotors multiple times. Rarely last over about 18 months. I don't brake abruptly or excessively so it seems brakes should last longer"

"calipers locking up on the brake pads. The original parts failed twice one on each side of the car"

"warped brake rotor."

"right rear brake line corroded and failed"

"Needed new pads and aligment"

"I also had to replace the rotors. So the two most expensive normal wear items both went."

"Had breaks and rotors replaced at Merchants uneven wear on brakes had to replace pads at Pep boys"

"they warp rapidly"

"Rotors warp when they get warm"

"Experienceing a loud clicking noise when the vehicle is in motion. Clicking is proportional to speed. I have not had it taken apart to confirm the root cause"

"U-JOINTS FAILURE"

"The driveshaft started be noisy about 6 months ago. My mechanic says it would cost about $650 to fix it. Also the boots are leaking oil and need to be replaced( another $600 to fix) . But I'm not going to repair it because the Blue Book value on the car is only $750-1500. I don't use this care much now and will probably sell it after this summer . It was a great car for 19 years but now it's not reliable enough for me to depend on. I loved the car for 19 years!"

"Age-related problem--had to replace one of the CV differentials"

"Rebuild rear drive shaft. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, combination switch. Replaced valve cover gasket and right front axle SB 8011"

"Drivers side axle had to be replaced because a universal joint in the axle was leaking grease onto the transmission housing, and the heated oil was creating a burning smell. This axle joint is not related to the CV joing"

"Cracked driveshaft (2 places) Also had to replace rear axle VERY expensive due to AWD"

"Just had a leaking axle that needed to be replaced to avoid future complications. Axle cost was about $400"

"Sharp turning vibrated the vehicle. And, would vibrate at high speeds (70+ mph). We replaced it"

"Unable to close driver door without thawing door lock."

"Front driver's seatbelt fails to retract anymore"

"Drivers seat is motor driven and no longer works. Can no longer move forward or backward"

"Does not operate"

"tailgate hinge mount area was so badly rusted out that new metal had to be welded in and new holes drilled. And this has always been a west coast car, having spent its entire life in San Francisco until I bought it last year"

"the outback gate (5th door) frequently won't release the latch after opening so I have to lever the handle to the closed position before closing"

"The backing to the tailgate came off, is very expensive to replace and difficult to put back on. When baking up the back-up-lights now reflect into my vision making it difficult to see anything at all"

"Over the years there have been at least 5 headlamps replaced for this car (previously owned a Saturn for over 10 yrs and replaced the headlamp one time)"

"regular headlights failed, although brights still worked"

"LED light on switch is out"

"Actually, I must have clicked on the wrong thing. I want to say that a good portion of our Subaru dashboard does not light up, making night driving difficult. The estimated costs for repairing this don't seem worth it for a car this old, so we've p"

"The remote failed, I purchased an OEM replacement, it does not link to the car, despite following the procedure, the dealer had no ideas. Also the rear door and the right passenger door door locks do not work consistently."

"The engine warning light comes on always and when our mechanic looked at it he couldn't find anything wrong. This was 6 years ago. Sometimes if we tightened the gas cap the light will go off until we get gas again"

"ABS light comes on for no apparent reason. After cross country travel had the brakes & wheels fixed. The light still came on after repair (along with the check engine light). After ignoring both for about a month (car did not act poorly) lights st"

"This was the 2nd clutch replacement since we bought the car in 2006"

"Had to replace clutch & have clutcjhpedal adjusted Clutch replacement VERY expensive due to AWD"

"Clutch is slipping. Needs repair. Expensive repair."

"Expensive to replace. New clutch doesn't operate as smoothly as the original one."

"CVT transmission failed."

"Slow coolant leak at first. Stop leak gave me 4 - 5 months. Car overheated and had to park until decision made to replace engine. Two years earlier replaced radiator"

"Both our Subarus' radiators failed at the return hose nipple. The nipple sheared off requiring a radiator replacement"

"radiator began leaking and was replaced. Note that this is the 2nd time the radiator has been replaced, the first time was by the dealer at 60k miles"

"Had a radiator leak that resulted in replacing hoses and thermostat"

"Leak at seal where electronic control cable connects to transmission. Had to replace $285.00 cable"

"Required transmission flush and pan gasket. Quite expensive"

"Starter was replaced a few months ago. I could hear the solenoid clicking but it would not turn despite have plenty of battery power"

"Engine would occasionally not turn over when key turned on. Usually occurred when cold in the morning. Had to replace starter"