Subaru Outback Change Vehicle

“rust through inside drivers side rear door resulted in hole. rust along both rear fenders at seams”

“Live in "salt belt", so took extra care to keep car washed. Rear wheel wells and door jambs rusted despite extreme care. Also rear sub-frame badly rusted despite rest-proofing per recall. SOA will not honor despite request”

“My car developed rust under the paint over the rear wheel well on the driver's side. I have noticed rust in the same place on a number of other Outbacks”

“Massachusetts-based vehicle exposed to road salt. Corrosion had to be corrected to body and frame components in order to pass state inspection”

“This car has "lived its life" in Minnesota--land of long winters and salty roads. It has had rust repaired on the wheel wells many times by the previous owner. Currently it has new rust and bubbling on the rear wheel wells. Last year I discovered”

“Rust has developed on both sides of the rear wheel wells, INSIDE the door. (The area of exposed/painted metal when you open the door.)”

“Rust above the rear wheel wells. I've noticed this rust spot on other Subaru Outbacks in the exact same spot”

“Rear panels above the tires rusted out despite regular professional car washes”

“20002 was a good year for Bordeaux wine but bad for Subaru rust proofing. The entire rear frame assembly has been repaired to the max and is now really on borrowed time. Rear area quarter panels and seals around windows are all but done”

“Paint is bubbling due to rust at the upper front of both rear wheel wells, and some spots on the roof where paint is bubbling due to rust. The car spent the first 100,000 or so miles of its life in MA and NH”

“driver's side rear panel above tire- rust hole”

“Rear fender area where trim meets body has rust in the corner right next to the wheel. I see it on almost ALL older Subaru's with same body. It's on both left and right rear areas”

“Check engine light came on repeatedly. Code reader showed that the catalytic converter might not be working. After multiple erasures of the error code, I decided to get the catalytic converter replaced. Cost: $1356”

“Failed flexible joint ahead of cat converter required replacement of entire cat converter + resonator assembly”

“hole developed between exhaust piping and muffler. Left exhaust fumes in car. Was repaired”

“Failed the Massachusetts inspection for 2017”

“I answered the q”

“The heat shield over the years gradually rotted out, I finally had all vestiges of it removed when the Catalytic converter was replaced. I am disappointed that the heat shields rot out like this, well before other components of the car do”

“exhaust system/muffler finally rusted through, though there sounded like there were perforations for a couple of years”

“Muffler itself was OK, but flange (an integrated part of muffler) rusted/broke at connection to tail pipe necessitating whole muffler replacement”

“replacved because of age”

“The same comments I made for the 2003 Forester apply to the 2002 Outback”

“car was shuddering badly”

“I was told by two different car care garages that brakes were ok. When I finally took it to the Subaru dealership to have a fuel line leak problem repaired (independent garage had delays and difficulty getting replacement parts), the dealership repa”

“Standard replacement given age and mileage of vehicle”

“rear brakes rusted up requiring new pads, calipers, and rotors after less than 8000 miles”

“We have to replace the brake pads quite frequently on all four”

“brake pads replaced; probably normal wear”

“severe wobbling in te fron end when brakes were applied. new rotors and pads fixed itr”

“Rotor warp after over heating”

“vibration while driving”

“Rotors became warped and caused the wheels to wobble and the brakes to squeal”

“these parts in the front end of the car needed replacement”

“Struts worn out”

“They had just plain worn out after a lot of tough miles. Nothing unusual. All the recent problems are due to age and miles, and the last 3 years as a rural mail route vehicle”

“Bottoms out more often when hitting potholes”

“system was leaking fluid, was diagnosed as needing replacement of rack and pinion system, after merely topping off system for several months”

“Replaced the rack after 205000 miles. Not too bad”

“worn out parts caused uneven tire wear; but the car was due for new tires anyway”

“Rear tire wear was uneven and there was vibration. Replaced the rear struts and OK now”

“Pump died, had it replaced with a rebult unit”

“Strange howling noise when a/c running more than 15 or so minutes”

“Has been replaced twice, does not work when weather is warm”

“Check engine light would not go off; had to bring to dealer; a relay was the problem but other mechanics said only dealer could fix”

“failed to cool / dehumidify”

“Ices up regularly. Two independent garages and the dealer have not been able to duplicate the problem”

“Went without air conditioning for several years because mechanic said it was the compressor. Last year we decided to take the plunge and this time mechanic said it was a refrigerant leak. So far, so good”

“Refrigerant was low but repair shop did not find a leak. The used a dye in the system”

“Upper hose leak”

“AC was not very cold so some tubes were replaced and unit was recharged”

“It has a hole in the catalytic converter, which was fixed. However it still smells of exhaust each winter when we turn the heat on”

“Gas smell when temperatures dropped below freezing”

“The Check Engine light turns on and variously indicates the O2 Sensor OR the Catalytic Converters. The indicator light might stay on for a day or a week before turning off. My mechanic recommends waiting for complete positive ID of problem before repair or replacement”

“Creates extreme problems with California's Smog Certification regime, and can be very difficult to resolve”

“Major shifting problems necessitating install of another transmission”

“Had a major repair shop rebuilt the transmission 5 years ago, then last year it died again. the H6 motor is OK, but the transmission is not able to perform well. I did no towing or abuse during my driving. Regular maintenance was done by professional”

“Transmission just died on I 95 while on vacation. Scary. Had to be towed to Subaru dealership near there”

“failed”

“One of the remote key fobs no longer works, was told (at dealer) that exact replacement is no longer available, and closest match would cost $250 + $125 programing fee”

“There seems to be a general failure of some wiring harnesses under the dash. The 12V plug quit working, and the outside rear view mirrors can no longer be controlled with the switch”

“Car would not start due to failed connection between the ignition and the battery”

“spark plug wires failed and caused rough and uneven running. Replaced the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. Now OK”

“needed to have the spring on the tailgate handle repaired”

“Had to replace yaw sensor once under wrrantee and twice after warrantee expired”