Subaru Outback Change Vehicle

"When putting the car in reverse there is a delay before the camera comes on. The display tells me the car is a Subaru. I know that already"

"The backup camera shows a blue screen for a few seconds then completely disappears"

"broke down and doesn't work"

"Back up camera works intermittently"

"Does not work, blue screen"

"Just stopped working and it ticks me off because it was an expensive item for the car, and the dealer suggested I just purchase a replacement system"

"CD quit working and cost through dealer to repair/replace was astronomical. Replaced radio/CD unit with better after market unit at fraction of dealer cost."

"Just stopped playing CD Dealer fixed it."

"CD player died (stopped working) i.e., it will not load discs."

"The CD Player seems to overheat very easily. After an hour or so of playing the unit will stop and claim it's unable to read the disc. When the CD is ejected it is very hot, to the point of being slightly warped."

"I listen to audio books and if I miss a thought I cannot reverse just a short distant. I have to go back to the beginning of the track which can be quite long sometimes. This will prevent me from buying a foreign car again"

"The display is now always completely blank, yet the radio and CD work fine just can't see anything, such as stations, what CD track, etc."

"Never been fixed since problem is intermittent and not on when at dealership"

"Thermometer stopped functioning. Also remaining miles to drive on tank of gas stopped functioning"

"I am not technologically sophisticated enough to figure this out for myself and need the dealership to help me"

"unable to use both jack plugs at same time - only one at a time will work"

"Car and bluetooth don't always communicate well"

"Have to unplug iPhone and have iPhone speaker working, then plug back in b4 it transmits through car speakerstt"

"Navigation system freezes up and the buttons do not function . GPS sometimes fails to work. Many times the GPS takes the longest route Memory function on GPS has failed"

"Support system does not work, memory location remains inoperable, GPS can freeze"

"Entire entertainment and navigation system is badly designed, difficult to navigate, dangerous (because it requires driver distraction to operate small buttons and screen icons)."

"Unreliable"

"Not intuitive. Poor instruction manual. Dealer had difficulty determing how to stop the navigation system. Adjusting sound quality takes an engineer"

"Difficult to input destination. Menu and controls difficult to understand"

"I find the navigation system too restrictive given the limitations when driving. A passenger can't enter anything without stopping the car. On a highway, this feels almost as dangerous as the driver entering information while driving"

"unreliable, difficult to use, counter intuitive"

"Does not provide as much info (e.g., announcing street names) and is not as reliable (e.g., indicates the wrong side of the road for a site) as our Garmin was"

"GPS screen would freeze and not refresh with current state information"

"The entire sound and media system is complex, difficult and dangerous to manipulate while driving, huge and extremely unhelpful user manual. Would never buy another car with this system in it."

"Bluetooth pairing no longer works and was way too difficult to begin with"

"The phone can pair to the radio once, but thereafter the radio gives a "memory full" error. As a software engineer who works on embedded systems, I suspect the 2012 radio - high end at the time - was not prepared for a the amount of data a smart phone can have in its address book in 2020."

"Could only pair up to 2-3 phones and pairing was a pain with the subpar voice control."

"Unable to adjust volume when phone with car Bluetooth - it is extremely loud"

"Phone voice sounded like being underwater on receiving end"

"Paired with my first iPhone 2nd iPhone paired for one day and cannot get to pair again"

"Horrible bluetooth interface; very difficult to pair, often locks out phone, can only register one phone. very poor microphone quality; dealership says this is all "normal""

"This bluetooth system is the most difficult to use of any cars I have ever paired with my iPhone"

"Still does not pair consistently. Had trouble with radio which is built into naviagation"

"Since the dealer replaced the amplifier twice (still buzzing annoyingly), I cannot get my new iPhone to pair with the Bluetooth at all. Also, the "calendar" doesn't work anymore, even with this brand new system"

"Radio stopped working within 1 year of purchase. Had to be replaced. Very disconcerting."

"Amplifier broke...replaced under warrenty"

"Radio would go to full volume for no reason at all and could not turn off without turning vehicle off, this is very dangerious as it is sudden. Dealer had to replace with a new unit"

"Sirius cuts out so often that it is frustrating to listen to. Also the radio will often change stations with no provocation. This is the Pioneer system that came with the car. Their GPS system is also not as informative or reliable as our previous Ga"

"There is a constant buzzing or humming noise when the car is running or even with just the key in the ignition turned to "on." Under warranty, have had the amplifier replaced twice and now the third one is doing it again. Starts in cold temps"

"Was on vacation. Had to have it towed to the nearest dealer."

"Check engine light comes on. No problems detected. on and off for no reason. Dealer wants money even though they don't fix it. old subaru had the same problem"

"pinched wire"

"In warm weather (>60) speakers crackle and stop working. Errr"

"The dealer replaced the volume control for the sound system and it broken once again and now out of warranty"

"volume control and mute button on steering wheel"

"volume and mute controls on radio"

"Steering wheel control buttons don't always do what they should. Often, the volume button will change the radio station or input mode and vice versa"

"End up replacing the Harman KArdon audio for an after market solution. All problems disappeared."

"Voice command is quirky. I speak very carefully when "dialing by name" and have to "cancel" and try again about half the time"

"Voice control requires exact words, has strange time-outs, and is generally not worth the trouble"

"no volume control when using bluetooth for the phone. Volume is set to very high"

"clutch lever and pivot both broke. Since the labor to fix those parts was extensive and would have been duplicated when the clutch and flywheel eventually needed replacing, I replaced clutch and flywheel at the same time."

"I'd bought the certified vehicle with a stiff clutch at 33K miles and they said that was normal for a subaru. but then a year later, they claimed the exact same stiff clutch was bad and needed replacement. I pushed until Subaru paid for the replacement, splitting it with the dealer."

"Clutch failed while driving"

"Torque converter was not fully disengaging, car would stall coming to a stop. Purchased extended warranty, which covered the $1500 repair"

"Recently when stopping short the engine would die like driving a stick and not throwing out the clutch when you stop. I went online to SUBARU Owners.org and found that 2011 & 2012 models had defective Torque Converters and that some people contacted Subaru and were sent $500.00 to help with the repair. Many people thought this should of been a recall but it's not at this time. I Emailed Subaru and also was went a check for $500.00, I took the car to a Subaru dealer and had the motor pulled, Torq"

"Had to be replaced at 88,000 miles at a cost of $1400 including the 90k service"

"Will need replacing eventually. The car is stalling when stopped"

"Was stalling. Told that it was a torque converter problem. Was told that it was a problem with Subarus. Had it replaced. Paid for the fix"

"Torque converter lockup stopped releasing reliably upon car return to stop causing frequent idle stalls unless shifted into neutral"

"This is the same car"

"Car was stalling at stop lights randomly shortly after I bought it with 90000 miles on it"

"Some sort of electrical issue with the torque convertor and transmission control module (TCM). Major fixes required twice - total cost approx $3000+"

"Car periodically shuddered and engine stumbled while driving. Thought the engine might die. Problem was intermittent."

"Vehicle would hesitate when moving from a stopped position. I feared it was going to stall which it never did. I had the torque converter repaired rather than risk a more serious problem/situation."

"I had the torque converter replaced, but then received an unsolicited notice from Subaru that offered to pay for it, which I took advantage of. The symptom was stalling when coming to quick stops."

"Shortly after buying the used car, I had several warning lights pop up. It also had an intermittent issue that the Outback would shudder, and occasionally stall, at stops. The local trans shop diagnosed the TCM module and the torque converter. Expensive repair, over $2K, but I still love the vehicle - everything else has been great."

"A shudder became increasing worse when coasting. Search of internet indicated the Torque Converter and that it was in recall. Subaru at first declined to service it under recall as the engine was of a different size than the one under recall. The Subaru dealer service department advocated for use and did get the torque converter replaced with no cost to us."

"Subaru proactively extended my transmission warranty in august 2017 and I had the torque converter repaired in december 2017 for no cost. I'm very happy with that."

"The torque converter failed twice and was replaced under warranty both times, even though the part was out of warranty the second time"

"Recall from manufacturer"

"Took it to dealership... very expensive repair"

"Car was shuddering under light acceleration. Dealer diagnosed the problem, replaced the torque converter under warranty"

"Noise & rumbling. Expensive repair (but covered under warranty). One visit to diagnose and order parts - second visit (expected 2 days) for repair"

"Uneven gear engagement. Shift points faulty"

"Transmission went out shortly after purchase, but was covered by dealer warrenty. Shifting into first can be difficult when it is cold outside"

"Total transmission failure would not shift. Clutch was fine"

"CVT started slipping and losing power. They don't rebuild and only offered a replacement which cost $4,000"

"Entire transmission was replaced under warranty. It was not releasing when the car came to a stop, causing the engine to stall."

"Foulty transmission. Replaced under extended warrenty."

"Occasional engine stumbling while idling in Drive or Park, or stopping or starting in Drive or Park, was caused by torque converter lockup, valve body, other problem(s), valve body lockup in the rebuilt replacement transmission, inhibitor switch, power steering rack connection. In each case the defective part was replaced free of charge, except for the power steering connection, which was adjusted . Loaner cars were provided at no cost, as needed. This all occurred over a period of about 200 miles. The occasional stumbling persists, at 80,245 miles."

"Clutch would not engage, unable to move car. Had to have the whole clutch system/transmission done $2800. OUCH"

"I purchased vehicle with no recall issues. Known issue with transmission and or valve body of CVT 2012 Subaru Outback and other models. Google this. They did not issue recall, but extended warranties to cover for additional time. So I bought, but would not have if I knew it was likely there would be issues with tranny. Owned one year and then due to issues, noises did extra research and found Forbes article surrounding this issue. Lesson: research a vehicle more before you buy."

"It was built in 2012 with a new type transmission called Continuous Variable Transmission. It was replaced under warranty."

"The transmission blew up and had to be replaced. It was replaced under Subaru's warranty. It took about five months for the Subaru dealer to get a replacement transmission."

"Transmission could only be shifted into 1st gear manual. Dealer inspection found the transmission was about to fail and replaced it under extended warrenty"

"Transmission has had problems from day one even the replacement transmission has problems of rough shift has a pause in it when taking off from a dead stop"

"I had to have the transmission, engine and radiator replaced by the warranty company."

"The transmission became noisy, like how a worn out ball bearing on the wheels might sound like. Turns out the unserviceable CVT part needed replacement . I was under extended warranty, and also covered by Subaru recall on the transmission so did not have to pay for it. The invoice for the repair was $10500 on a car which was probably worth the same."

"Was becoming undriveable. Subaru was aware of the issue and installed a factory rebuilt transmission free of charge."

"Transmission and torque converter had to be replaced at about 120000 miles. Garage said "no surprise" here; typical for the Subaru Outback at about 100 - 125,000 miles."

"This was a first generation CVT. It was replaced just under warranty. However, the engine died within a year after the transmission replacement."

"harsh shifting and error codes"

"Started on road trip and was warned not to drive the vehicle. Was able to get it to the dealer who indicated they could not determine if the transmission had a problem (transmissions were a known problem). Two months later when exiting from a freeway, the transmission pretty much blow up. Had car towed to dealer and transmission was replaced 3 weeks later."

"Transmission failed at 120,000 miles. Subaru had extended the warranty on the CVT transmission and replaced it for free. We were given a rental care to use as it took 3 months to get the replacment"

"Reverse gear went out"

"The system failure caused. A fault in ecu requiring that also be replaced as well."

"Check engine light came on. It cost 65 dollars just to have it checked. The EGR valve replacement was over 800 dollars. It should be easier to replace a part and should nor cost this much."

"Catalytic converter went bad."

"system going off on dash"

"An emission control pipe failed and had to be replaced"

"Seal fails. All idiot lights turn on. Can't use cruise control. Happened twice"

"Fuel cap emission control sensor failed and lots of lights came on. Was told that problem was due to fuel getting into cap. Problem most likely caused by my tendency to really fill the tank. Probably too full. Have started to let gas pump just shut off then remove nozzle"

"Car warning lights come on and when checked it ALWAYS comes back as "fuel cap". This has happened four times since new and while covered twice under warranty it no longer is covered. ANNOYING"

"required replacement requires extremely tight closure or will reflect system failure when there is no problem"

"Aside from the warning light, the most annoying thing is that the cruise control ceases operating and electric emergency brake release stops working until you clear emission errors. This has happened twice due to fuel cap, once due to O2 sensor."

"stop engine light came on, brake light came on, cruise control stopped working. This has happened twice in one year"

"Have replaced THREE fuel caps due to electronic shutdown of cruise control and always on CHECK ENGINE light. Charge to analyze computer (~$150 per) and reset each time and replace fuel caps."

"check engine light came on and the fuel cap had to be replaced"

"Leak in fuel vacuum system. Twice! Lost cruise control each time.Replaced fuel cap first time under warranty. Reset warning lights second time. Drivable each time but no cruise. Fault can be reset IF driven 6-8 miles 4 to five times. Nuisance more th"

"A self defined "minor leak" caused almost every alarm on the dashboard to flash and disabled the cruise control during a long road trip. The leak was never found and the code was reset with no re-occurance"

"The cruise control goes out & then it's always blamed on the fuel cap which has been replaced. It's frustrating because the cruise control goes out while I'm out on the highway on the weekend"

"Panel dashboard lights lit up with engine problem. I called the dealer from the road to explain the problem. He told me to bring it in the next morning. He cleaned the cap and put it back on. Problem solved. We were on our way No charge. They were ve"

"car needed new fuel pump within 2 months of purchase"

"Fixed February 2016. 1000 miles later same problem. Waiting game 2 weeks for an appointment"

""rear" 02 sensor failed. Hard to diagnose. Dealer was to replace for $200+. I complained to the regional service, since I hear that many of these have failed, and they reduced the price to $95"

"Check engine light came on but went off after about 100 miles and all back to normal. This was the 4th similar occasion. The other 3 times it required Subaru service at Columbus, GA; Hilton Head, SC & Lakeland, FL. All times it occurred while driving on major highways"

"Not sure what sensors but lost cruise control, anti-sway, had code 456 evap small leak checked for rewrites, rewrite available"

"Same comment as fuel cap. The Outback makes darn sure you know there’s a problem by killing the cruise control and electric emergency brake release."

"Check engine light indicated a problem. Just to have it checked was too expensive. Testing was inconclusive so the part was replaced and problem resolved. it was very expensive to repair."

"Car won’t into a safe mode and all warning lights flashed and cruise control did not work. Top speed was around 60. Sensors were replaced and no issues since."

"Catalytic converter failed intermittently causing sensors to fail and check engine light to come on. Components replaced 4 times before Subaru dealers decided CC was the root of problem."

"The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT repeatedly comes on but it is usually not a actual problem with the engine but with one or more of the sensors"

"An emissions code was triggered at around 100,000 miles. This disabled the cruise control. The code would go away temporarily when the battery was disconnected. Two dealership service depts. and an independent shop have looked at it multiple times. Eventually, one dealership changed the rear O2 sensor and the front AF sensor for $850. The code returned after about 90 miles. The other dealership wanted me to spend another $1000 to try to repair it, but did not sound confident it would take care of the problem. The independent shop inspected it, told me they could find nothing wrong, and they had heard Subaru was having this trouble and didn't know how to fix it. It is not resolved. Several warning lights flash on the dash constantly and my cruise control, which I used regularly in town and on the highway, does not work."

"Check Engine light activated by one or more problems with sensors monitoring fuel in gas tank"

"Engine stalls sometimes when coming to a complete stop. Issue is not yet resolved. The Mass Air Sensor has been cleaned with some improvement"

"Check engine light came on. Evaporative fuel system small leak was the analysis. Probably a loose fuel cap. Che ked out and no leak found. Alarms reset"

"defective MAP sensor"

"Three times while on extended trips the engine light has turned on disabling cruise control and making other lights flash on the control. In all three cases, the problem corrected itself after a period of time and driving, 300-800 miles"

"Had to replace both O2 sensors"

"Check engine light appears, 2nd time in 2 years. Both times indicate a small evap. leak. Both times appeared while driving on inter state. Took in to different dealerships to reprogram & repair"

"all four went bad - very expensive!!"

"The car is an AWD. The camber is incapable of being adjusted. My right rear passenger's side wheel is out of alignment with the camber being off. AWD vehicles require replacement of all 4 tires upon any one or more going bad. Gets very expensive,"

"went through a set of tires in two years due to uneven tire wear from alignment out"

"Somehow the ball joint broke which caused a terrible vibration in the car. It was a very costly fix."

"it was rough driving within warranty, but not noticed by the dealer. My personal mechanic checked on my request - after warranty- and found the problem."

"We live on a rough gravel road and that caused the noise from th eball joints, and I'm a little picky."

"Routine wear"

"Had to replace both front lower control arm bushings"

"The bushings on the lower control arm wore out and broke. This was after the ball joint broke on the other side. Both costly to fix."

"Noisy when driven over rough roads. Resolved on replacing Bushings"

"Control arm bushings a weak design point"

"Bushings had to be replaced as a result of state inspection - wear"

"Slow hose leak."

"In the winter, the rear "clunks" going over bumps. Sounds like there's ice in the wheel well or the struts are frozen. Dealer has never been able to reproduce the issue"

"Car is starting to get tossed around on bumps like the struts are wearing out."

"Car bounces sideways in bumps. Replaced control arms, still has problem."

"Front struts wore out prematurely"

"One of my struts leaked/broke. Made clunking noise when I drove over bumps"

"Replaced the Power Steering O Ring Seal Replenish hydraulic fluid Cost: $225"

"Our trusted mechanic told us the tie rod ends needed to be replaced. I assume this necessitated doing the alignment, too."

"Caused by sudden alignment failure. Because tire diameters must be matched the wear on 2 tires forced us to buy 4 tires."

"Front wheel bearing had to be replaced"

"Both rear wheel bearings going out (which I could hear) when I went in for oil change. Dealer replaced under extended warranty. No further problems."

"The rear wheel bearing is now making loud noise and my mechanic wants to replace it. This will make the third wheel bearing I have replaced on this vehicle"

"Both rear bearing had to be replaced"

"Complaint about noise led to replacement of both rear wheel bearings / hub assemblies."

"The noise became so loud it was clearly time for replacement. Both left side bearings were bad. Perhaps from the magnesium cloride they put on the roads both summer and winter."

"Bad bearing driver side front wheel"

"valve guides failed dealer said tuff luck spent 3500 at a private shop"

"cylinders broken, had to completely replace the engine and car was only 6 years old"

"Engine was consuming oil. Did oil Consumption test. Piston rings were replaced under warranty."

"Four valve guides came loose & engine stopped due to lack of compression on highway. Car had just been serviced a week before, oil level ok. Mileage was 500 over warranty - cost $3750.00"

"The head gasket failed at 69,000 miles, causing it to overheat. It failed on the highway which was very scary. The dealership fixed it but it took over 3 weeks to get my car back. 12,000 miles later, my engine quit at the end of April this year. It's been at the shop ever since. It's now June 2nd and I still don't have my car back. The only saving grace is that I have the extended warrantee. I've completely lost confidence in this car and this brand. I will not purchase another Subaru."

"I could not control the engine and it would stop working when I would need to start or stop the engine. Had to have the warranty company replace the complete engine, transmission and radiator."

"The radiator became clogged and the engine overheated and siezed."

"The car started to shudder and the check engine light came on. The car had to be towed to a shop. The diagnosis was that the valve guides for the exhaust valves had dropped down causing the valves to hang open. The shop replaced both cylinder heads and one bent valve. The repair took about seven business days."

"Engine bacame hesitant over a few hours on a long trip and finally just blew."

"$7000 replacement from the dealer."

"Head Gaskets are known to go with high miles so while motor was pulled for Torque Convertor replacement I had the Head Gaskets done"

"Faulty head gasket cause a slow oil leak and caused mixing of coolant and oil to cause the engine to overheat and blow"

"In 2015 there was a valve guide that failed in the engine. Thankfully that repair was under warranty. In March 2017 an intake manifold gasket failed"

"Both head gasket started seeping oil as of 2014. It’s a common issue on this engine, and being the latest revision it never got really bad (unlike models prior to 2011). As such, we waited until our CPO warranty was nearly over to have the engine pulled and both gaskets done. Earlier models would fail catastrophically in much shorter time periods unless oil was changed 2x as often as factory recommended."

"Both cylinder head gaskets failed, requiring the engine to be removed and serviced. A common issue in these engines. What was uncommon was the front crank seal and water pump also failed."

"Head gasket blew at 88,000 m. Subaru covered it as there have been many such problems in their vehicles"

"This problem was very expensive and took, took 2 experienced mechanics shops to figure out, alert lights did not give accurate information at first."

"Don't believe the dealerships. Head gaskets are still a problem with Subarus. This problem hasn't been fixed yet. My loaner cars (yes, I'm on my second loaner now) have been 2018's - the electronics software is very glitchy. My first loaner had a problem with the outside temp gauge. The safety message that shows on the touch screen prevents the driver from decreasing the volume on the radio when you first start the vehicle which is frustrating."

"Occurred at around 70000 miles. found out after engine overheated. brought it back to the local Subaru dealer, they repaired it and helped with repair discounts."

"Overheating led to head gasket replacement for second time."

"Engine suddenly overheated spraying coolant from the radiator pressure cap. Was able to limp home (about 5 miles). Took auto to independent garage where they were able to replicate the problem on test drive and determined it to be a head gasket problem. Garage said this is a common problem with this year/engine model Subaru a finding confirmed by multiple Internet postings. Over the past year, it has been timing belt, transmission/converter, and now head gasket -- each problem has been described as a "common problem" for this build year, engine model, and mileage for a Subaru Outback."

"Head gasket developed a leak. $1400 to replace it!"

"Head gasket leaked on the coil which generates misfires. went to the deauler to reset the engine failure signal, at which time the garage said everything is fine. The engine failure sign reappeared two days later. Had to return to the dealer to get t"

"maintenance replacement of timing belt at 105000 mikes"

"ecu reflash under warranty problem may not be corrected"

"Check engine light code indicated sticking valve lifters. Since access is difficult, requiring partial disassembly of the engine, we replaced all valve lifters"

"I’m a mechanic and automotive performance enthusiast on the side. Subaru has the worst factory engine programming of any brand I’ve driven or worked on. They run way too much ignition timing, and the engine audibly knocks and pings while cruising- even if we use higher octane than recommended. They simply need to do a better job since it almost certainly causes low compression and oil consumption over time."

"Car has pinged and knocked heavily since new, even “non-geargead” people sitting in the car hear it and comment. Running premium only slightly helps, the ignition timing is just flat out too far advanced to be safe."

"My car engine rattles so you can hear me coming down the street. My car sounds like an old vehicle from the 60's. It was a problem with the system that they fixed in subsequent models supposedly, but I would have to pay to get it fixed in mine and then the fix would only last a little while."

"tires kept scraping when turning the steering wheel. wasn't diagnosed till the 3rd time I brought it in"

"1. Excess oil consumption 2. Oil spots on the ground"

"Due to a faulty head gasket an oil leak was caused"

"It uses to much oil It has failed latest oil consumption test"

"the front engine seal started leaking and needed to be replaced. This also included replacing the timing belt since it was off at the same time."

"Oil pan plug had a double washer install."

"Car is starting to have a smell of burning oil after shutting off the engine, even though there is no obvious leak. (Happened on our 2000 Legacy Wagon as well.)"

"There is a known issue that these cars are burning through oil. We noticed it when it was brand new. It took a while for Subaru to acknowledge it. They sent out letters to all car owners and are trying to back up their product. We are in an analysis stage (they are monitoring our car's oil usage) to see what can done. How they handle this will determine whether or not we will buy another Subaru this year. My experience in the past is that they are a great company, so I am hopeful, but this is the first made in North America Subaru that I have owned and so far my impression is that quality slipped when they stopped importing them from Japan."

"The rear engine seal went out on the vehicle requiring an relatively expensive repair. I have not had an engine seal go out on a vehicle prior and would not have expected it with less than 80k miles"

"We had to take it in for frequent oil changes because it was burning oil faster than it should. Plus, after several trips to the dealer the someone realized that the car need a software update to correct the oil indicator coming on every 1000 miles."

"Indicator light came on in late December, despite being full of oil. New seals, gasket, filter oil and such ran $1,920"

"This problem is on going. Before i reach 3,000 miles i have to put in about ½ a quart of oil to make it to my next scheduled oil change. It started about 28,000 miles into ownership and the dealership and other mechanics can't find where it is going. It is a major annoyance of this vehicle."

""O" ring malfunction - difficulty diagnosing oil leak. fixed the "O" ring hopeful that fixes the issue"

"Slight oil leak after 15 mile daily commute. At work and in garage"

"regular leaks for nearly last 2 1/2 years"

"The car seems to leak a small amount of oil, which mechanics say is "normal""

"Filler hose rubber bubbled/separated inside the hose restricting the ability to fill tank In a timely matter"

"sometimes will blow only hot when a/c is turned on or will just stay on when I've pressed 'off' Course it never happens when I bring it in, so the service people ignore me. It pisses me off. Hard to believe I have the only lemon system"

"The blowers do not blow the air the way it should, resulting in some warm spots and other cold areas in the front seat area"

"Climate Control does not hold temperature at the set temp. On sunny days interior gets very hot"

"Hot air will blow from the bottom & cool air from the top on the driver's vent. When it's hot I have to roll the window down before the air conditioner will work"

"Fan motor made noise and failing. Needed to be replaced"

"The fan is very loud in the car when the heat or ac is set to anything over the lowest setting"

"Started couple years ago With fan not seeming as effective, gradually increased, now barely blows until on high or next to high.Had this worked on once as I recall."

"Blower motor failed and had to be replaced"

"The condensate drain hose clogged several times, and was difficult to keep clear. This caused the condensate to not drain outside and accumulate in the interior of the vehicle, on the front occupants' carpet/floor pans"

"There is very poor heating out of lower vents by the feet"

"Mfr failure to design heater/ventilation system to prevent entry of squirrels and mice"

"The heater is absolutely terrible. We live at 10,000 ft and the car never get warm in the winter. We’ve done everything to try and fix this but the heater was just not engineered correctly."

"Let me be clear about this. The heater and the A/C both work as well as does the blower motor. The problem is that VERY LITTLE air volume exits the vents. Even with the motor going full blast THERE IS NO BLAST. Because of this it takes forever to clear the windshield or warm up the vehicle in cold weather and there is NO danger of ever getting to cold in the summer time. The dealer says everything is working according to specification. You couldn't blow out a match by holding in front of an air vent."

"Poor heat delivery when on "floor setting""

"Very little heat come from floor vents. Feet get cold in winter"

"High pressure AC hose burst. Dealer replaced hose and re-charged AC ($328), no issues since"

"A/C not cooling as it should. Bought a recharge kit and added Freon myself. Cooling well now."

"Air conditioning was not functioning properly. It was fixes, but I may have a condenser issue."

"No cold air. Will look for refrigerant leak in near future before summer arrives. Not sure about compressor, condenser, etc."

"Intake O2 sensor failed. Resulting over rich mixture destroyed converter"

"Had to be replaced as it was welded into the exhaust system even though it was still serviceable an unneeded expensive service."

"The bracket the supports the exhaust in the middle broke. Then the weight was not supported. The exhaust broke at the catalytic converter, which had to be replaced"

"broken pipe gasket at muffler repaired with pipe flange"

"It cost close to $1,000 to fix the car. I thought this was excessive."

"I've dealt with this problem for a while. I had a mechanic attempt to tighten the shield which quieted the rattling for a time, then it came back a few months later. A 2nd mechanic inspected it and advised me that short of replacing the entire thing, he could have someone solder parts of the heat shield. But at that point, and since, I've just grown used to the rattling and just put up with it."

"noisy when veh. is cold. recently had mechanic use a self tapping screw to tighten, seems to have worked."

"It just made noise. no problem with driving"

"I had exhaust system replaced and ever since then there is a very loud metallic rattle when the car gets up to 65-7mph. Have take it back 3 times to have them fix it with no change"

"The dealer replaced all three of the heat shields around the exhaust pipe as it exits the engine and they still rattle annoyingly!"

"Muffler and a connecting flange/exhaust piping was rusted through. Had replaced."

"The muffler clamp was rusted and needed to be replaced. It rattled but wasn't something that bothered me."

"Check engine light was not corrected from two visits to the dealer and then 2 visits to a private auto repair facility. The private auto repair facility got it right on the third try; replaced some sensor(s) that had shorted out - as I was told."

"It was a recall. Never had a problem with the airbags myself. The airbags came in to the dealership, they notified me to come in for replacement and took care of the situation very professionally."

"Airbag recalled"

"the light stays on and when we have the vehicle serviced we have to "reset" the warning sound by attaching the seatbelt 20 times rapidly in quick succession or the warning sound will not stop sounding"

"exhaust leak at the pipe after the muffler, will be repaired soon."

"The exhaust pipe broke free in front of the catalytic converter and had to be re welded. This happened at 145,000 miles"

"On Down shift It Bangs and slips. It has Happened from brand new off the lot and Subaru refuses to rectify because they say they can not duplicate it when they have the car!it is a V6 and is very frustrating."

"Periodically, the engine becomes sluggish after stopping and then restarting. There is an occasional clunk sound."

"Trans. seemed to stay in lower gears too long. Dealer provided a no-cost software upgrade that eliminated the problem"

"Dealer had to re-set code because of rough shifting"

"Clutch depresses stiffly"

"Would not stay in gear"

"I'm not an auto mech but assume that it was slipping problem. The car would start dying as I came to a stop or accelerated. Took it to the dealer and the fix was covered by the mfr warranty -- and with absolutely no hassles. Didn't cost me a dime and I have had no problems with that, afterwards. Only problem that has cropped up in the approx. 7-8 years I have had the car."

"Slipping transmission wasn't the exact problem, but was the closest to what we experienced: slight to heavy vibrations that were traced to a transmission problem. Our Subaru dealer determined that the cause was the improper maintenance (wrong fluid and inability to reset the transmission computer) performed by an independent mechanic. As such, the problem may have been more due to mechanic error than to a flaw in the Outback's transmission. Our dealer was able to fix the problem without rebuilding or replacing the transmission."

"Is Interment from Day One and Subaru will not Duplicate problem"

"Started slipping or skipping gears at approximately 5000 or after first dealer service"

"Periodically under light acceleration cannot decide between 5th & 5th gears. Shudders."

"Coming to a stop during operation, the car shuts off. It restarts immediately."

"This may not be true if harness/turbine sensor are not related to computer"

"Subaru was able to fix that day"

"When downshifting, especially at a traffic light, the RPM sometimes briefly drops to ~550-600 RPM from the normal ~700-750 RMP. Dealership said nothing was wrong with transmission or torque converter."

"The car suddenly started making a loud clunking then check engine & traction control warning lights came on. Turned out there was a short in harness & turbine sensor. Replaced. Car now runs like new."

"Couldn't get enough clearcoat when purchased so pitch and bird droppings and sun has damaged paint and headlight covers. I did remove pitch and dropping since I saw it"

"Clear coat right below tailgate rear window flaked off even though car is waxed twice per year since new. Dealer assessed it and asked Subaru to cover the expense WHICH THEY DID. No deductible"

"The clear coat is easily scratched. Under the door handles there is lots of scratching from our fingernails."

"paint chipping"

"Back hatch door has faded and the paint is pealing off door handles."

"Fingernails scratching the clear coat under the door handles"

"The roof rack black paint peeled off"

"within 6 months the hood had spots where clearcoat had flaked off. The said it was sap and not there fault. our 2000 outback sat in the same place for 12 years and never had a problem. they just did not want to fix it under warranty"

"Within few months paint started to crackle and fade, especially on hood. Has deteriorated too rapidly over time. Doesn't matter how often I wash or polish it, it acts as if paint being eaten away. Very dissatisfied with paint job"