Subaru Outback Change Vehicle

“unresolved noises”

“Had to be replaced after 38000 miles. Mechanic said it was a common problem. (Not a Subaru dealer mechanic)”

“Take you foot off the brake and it clunks as reported before. I have had to change my driving habit by when I come to a stop I take the automatic into neutral so I do not have to take my foot off the brake quickly to get started”

“brake fluid leak”

“VERY difficult to engage in an emergency, invisible during driving, car travels approximately 50-60 feet before brake engages in an emergency”

“Parking brake light flashes spontaneously without engaging, cannot get it to go off - then does not flash at most times. Does not flash at dealer and they find no problem. This happens sporadically for a few days then not at all for a few months”

“Parking brake locked-up. Needed a tow. Dealer could not find anything wrong”

“Electronic parking brake froze up and broke and had to be replaced”

“wore out much too soon. back first. front still not right”

“Brakes have been replaced after only 38,000 miles. I am not a heavy braker. Calipers also needed replacing”

“Rear driver side pad seized no warning ruined the rotor oem pads were not lubricated no sign of any lubricant's on guide areas or pad replaced with after market pads and rust proof rotors drilled and slotted and no rust after sitting for a week or more much better than oem. the oem shouldn't have failed they would over night a lite surface rust that would clean up after a few I'm.. I have a 99 Tacoma with 74,000 oem miles still has original brakes”

“Left rear brake was totally gone at 33000 miles”

“shot pad life, had to have rotors turned”

“I usually go over 80k miles on a set of brakes. The rear brakes lasted less than 40k miles”

“in a Emergency Braking ? Brake peddle goes to floor ?”

“rear rotors failed and had to be replaced along with clippers. Front roots also wore out and had to be replaced”

“Normal maintenance: replaced rear rotors and brake shoes”

“Should have had better quality product plated rust proof rotors drilled and or slotted. for rotors they were ruined due to siezed pad I replaced all four rotors drilled and slotted plated and ceramic pad .for the same cost of the two rear rotors only.only one side was totally gone but the rest were uneven. come on Subaru get with it!”

“One stuck and wore out the pad early”

“Car had bad alignment from the beginning. Dealer try to fix it sever times, but it is still not a 100%. I like the car in general, but it is really aggravating”

“Auto pulls to right...dealer consistently denies there's a problem..alignment is set to factory specs.I put 2 lbs more air in tires on opposite side..that helps somewhat.some have suggested different alignment specs have helped”

“pump failure; replaced under warranty”

“POWER STEERING WAS INTERMITTENT DEALER REPLACED POWER STEERING PUMP”

“Power steering caused turning the wheels to become very difficult, the dealer immediately replaced and power steering unit”

“power steering pump went out and had to be replaced”

“Replaced power steering, problem not solved”

“Had to replace power steering”

“Reported the steering felt notchy. Vehicle was road tested by Subaru agent and it was determined that the power steering pump was faulty. This was replaced under warranty”

“Power steering pump failed. Disabled car. Repaired.but still feels tight to steer”

“Had a 2006 forester that rode rough - much rougher than outbacks so bought an outback this time. it rides worse than my old forester. Asked the dealer about buying new shock/struts but they said it wouldn't help. I feel every crack, bump, seam i”

“Steering varies, left and right, at any speed, dangerous at highway speeds and passing obstacles. Car requires constant steering corrections to stay in lane, a look in rear mirror or instrument panel has lead to un-felt crossing of lane lines. Test d”

“Don't know what exactly what the steering problem is, and Subaru tells me I have none. The steering varies, left and right, at all speeds and conditions, where I need to constantly correct for what the car is doing. If I look in rear-view mirrors or dashboard, the car will veer and vary from where I steer. I feel unsafe with this, my wife drives this mostly and it doesn't bother her much. I won't drive this Subaru on long trips”

“Both the left and more recently the right "bushings" in the steering/ stabilization assembly”

“Covered by warranty and found by dealer”

“front wheel bearing failure within 1500 km of warranty expiring”

“Left (Driver's side) front wheel bearing failed and it took a second trip to the dealer before they agreed that it needed replacement”

“heard grinding noise from one wheel, dealer recommended replacing both as precautionary measure”

“I think the lifters need an adjustment, it makes a little tapping sound sometimes”

“Reprogramming the engine supposedly fixed the problem”

“oil leak at oil sensor unit”

“Serviced car in Madislon and exited city. Upon arriving in Mauston discovered ALL but part of Oil had been lost and Oil filter was not installed properly. Local repair shop cleaned All oil which had accumulaled on engine and undercarriage”

“The engine has had a bad plug. The dealer has been very understNding and replaced it three times. The are also very apologetic”

“Engine burns oil after heavy use”

“Timing chain cover was leaking oil on the exhaust manifold”

“The Outback burns a ton of engine oil. I had to top of off multiple times between oil changes and it gets very frustrating”

“Since I brought the vehicle brand new I have had the oil light come on between the 3000 mile and 5500 mile range. I have been low a 1/2 qt to a full qt of oil. They find no leaks or reason why this happens”

“It's not an oil leak, the engine is consuming oil. It's using about 1 quart every 3000 miles. Engine oil light has come on”

“Burning oil. Have to check every time I fill up with gasoline”

“Oil light flashes in under 5k miles. After several visits from service center, they found leak in the top engine block and replaced it”

“Timing Chain Gasket”

“2 wheel arch moldings came loose”

“Trim around wheel wells failed, and after some "negotiation" replaced under warranty”

“Molding on the front driver side roof to door pillar has been loose for almost a yr. Not much interest from the dealer to fix it”

“Minor issues with passenger seat loose plastic trim near seat controls. Fixed by dealer under warranty, came loose again shortly later”

“Seems to be of cheap quality. Fit and finish looked good when new but fasteners broke and showed wear and tear faster than expected”

“Sunglasses holder latch failed”

“When I backed out of the garage, I scraped the the door frame of the garage door”

“Paint "melting" , center of hood. Dealer said it must have been caused by bird droppings.Unlikely. Disfigured paint covered area approx the size of a quarter. Dealer took the car and had the hood repainted. So far so good”

“Paint chips off after just very light contact. Every panel of the car has a chip except the roof”

“Less than a year from purchase noticed a small rust spot on drivers side rocker panel”

“Rear hatch door was not painted properly and rust developed on the areas with thin paint. specifically the bottom edge and inside metal”

“I have noticed over the 3 years that we've owned the car that the paint is effected very easily to the environment. Bird droppings stain and etch paint surfaces. I have also noticed that rocks that hit the car and remove paint also remove the undercoat which has caused the body surfaces to show rust”

“The sunroof glass had to be replaced due to a bad seal preventing it from opening fully”

“hatch supports began fading: operating slowly and noisily”

“The pistons that kept the tailgate open. Needed to be replaced”

“The inside hatch pull failed within a week of picking up the car. Replaced by the dealer at no cost during second service. (Not in stock at the first service.)”

“have to slam the tailgate hard to keep the alert light on the dashboard from coming on. On any kind of slope, it wobbles and doesn't want to close right. Seems to be too heavy”

“The gas pistons that counterbalance the hatch are too weak to raise the hatch all the way up on their own. Subaru dealer will replace on the next service”

“For some reason, the seal around the hatch sticks to the body, making the hatch difficult to open”

“Driver side window molding stuck to window when lowering. Had to bring window back up and use screwdriver to hold molding away from window”

“driver side power window came out of track and would not go up/down. Took 3 visits to dealer to get it fixed”

“Auto up and down window switch failed”

“I have issues with both the trunk and hood latched not working. I had to take it to the dealership for both”

“I have a 3.6R Limited Outback, which seems to gulp and not sip oil. I went in for an Oil Consumption test, which failed i.e. the engine consumed more than a quart over 1200 miles. Subsequently, I was told that the engine would need replacement. This is still being discussed with the dealer”

“We experienced excessive oil consumption almost immediately after purchase (40k miles). It was burning about 1qt per 1k miles, and failed an oil consumption test in 600 miles (from oil change to oil warning light). The dealership replaced the short block under warranty around 44k miles. We're about 5k miles into the new block - oil consumption has not been a problem so far, though we noticed a slight drop in mpg”

“Engine recalled for excess oil consumption. Short block installed 7/2016”

“High oil consumption”

“Excessive oil usage”

“car was burning oil. Engine appeared corroded. After 2 oil tests the dealership admitted the engine needed replacement under warranty”

“Engine short block replaced by Subaru at no cost to the owner due to excessive oil consumption”

“Had a short block and cylinder head replacement in October 2016. This was covered by warranty. The reason for repair was excessive oil consumption”

“Had a short block and cylinder head replacement in October 2016. This was covered by warranty. The reason for repair was excessive oil consumption”

“Car will not shift up at times causing the engine RPM's to go very high, have to manually shift the car”

“Sometimes I thought someone hit me in the rear of the car because the jolt was so intense”

“Subaru has a problem with their CVT transmissions. They slip and cause hesitations at low speeds. The problem seems to be in 13 and 14's. I had an 11 and this was not a problem. I have talked to several people with these and they all confirm that the”

“The CVT takes more than one second to engage when shifting into either drive or reverse from any other gear. Dealership inspected but stated that the time to engage was within factory specification. The factory standards are dangerous”

“Had to replace the transmission band in the CVT - was making noise and losing power in the car”

“Warning lights and rough shifting. Not sure what the problem was. 2-3 dealer visits and fixed”

“The system just does not keep a steady temp and it takes miles of driving before the heat kicks on”

“Noisy”

“The floor vents don't seem to blow much air”

“Fan got something stuck in it, was removed/repaired under warranty”

“bearings in motor going out, noisy”

“Battery died 2/2017. Replaced under warranty”

“Exploded battery acid over entire engine”

“Ignition used to make a weird rattling noise at startup. After inspection, it was found that a one part of the ignition showed wear, and had to be replaced. It was done under extended warranty that I had bought, and not under the standard factory warranty”

“'O' ring on fuel line in the injector failed. Loss of power and fuel”

“Excessive cranking before starting. Amount of cranking directly proportional to length of time between starts”

“Leaking radiator hose caused engine over heating. Was quickly diagnosed and replaced under warranty”