Ram 1500

"Broken Sway Bar link and a Broken exhaust manifold bolt."

"The entire front end suspension had to be replaced."

"This Truck had to have rear shocks replaced at 92,000, I think this was strange."

"1500 suspension is not beefed up enough to pull a trailer. I need to decide whether to increase the carrying capacity of the vehicle or buy a 2500 which is more designed to pull a trailer."

"Rack and pinion were leaking when vehicle had about 50000 miles on it. No off road use"

"replaced the front break pads due to normal wear and tear."

"Parking brake shoes rusted out making a racket and made parking brake inoperable"

"This truck travels mostly on highways and does not tow anything big. I've had to do all 4 brakes including the rotors and the emergency brake since I bought it. Averaging over $500.00 per year on brakes right now. My 2008 ran twice as long on less"

"Rotors needed to be replaced (front and back)"

"New back brakes, repaired at a RAM dealer, squeal now and the dealer says nothing is wrong"

"This problem was a gradually developing issue. When turning the starter switch on, the computer that sorted everything out for ignition was failing. That component was replaced and reprogramed."

"Anytime fuel was added to the tank, the fuel would shoot back out of the filler neck. In shop twice to fix"

"Rusted oil pan, leaked"

"Oil pressure switch kept turning on check engine light"

"Found right hand engine exhaust manifold studs broken. Repaired under warranty, engine is quieter when cold now"

"Air leak causing knocking noise until engine heats up, this caused bolts to break loose. This requires the replacement of the exhaust manifolds both sides and bolts. This costs upwards of 1k and work is not covered with any garuntee. This is a known problem with as I found when researching this issue. The Dodge dealership offered to just replace the bolts fort $900 saying that would solve the problem but couldn't say it would be a permanent fix."

"Heat shield next to transmission rattling"

"Buzzing and other noises. Turns out, the "Alpine" premium sound system isn't really Alpine, it's Becker, and it's very complicated to get troubleshot and even more expensive to replace. The head unit goes new for about $900 and used for about $600"

"Reaend would cease up"

"Not sure what the cause was, but the dashboard lit up in failure lights one day (4WD, stablility, check engine, etc). Carmax had us take it in and they repaired it under extended warranty. A couple weeks later, the air conditioner just quit as well, and was also repaired"

"The driver's seat adjustment stopped working, so the seat is stuck in a position that is too far away for me to drive it. My husband doesn't have any problems, but I have to practically lie down to reach the brakes."

"One of the roller lifters failed at 135,000 Miles. Decided to install used engine rather than rebuild heads"

"Lifter failed and caused cam to send metal shavings thru engine"

"replaced during repair of roller bearings"

"Fuel pump continued to run after key off. Replaced power management module"

"Defective Cam position sensor"

"One day, a few years ago, there was a loud pop. So loud I thought a nearby car blew a tire. And ever since there's been a buzzing sound that can only be drowned out, but never eliminated. And the low volume sound quality is warbled and distorted. The dealer has only been able to offer their trim guy to troubleshoot it. But he's backed up for 2 weeks and I'd need to leave the vehicle. Maybe that's more of a dealer problem and not a vehicle problem. But I've gone to a stereo shop also and they say it could be the head unit, could be one of the multiple amplifiers, could be a connection or a wire harness problem, etc. So for them to troubleshoot it would be expensive and they'd rather just install an aftermarket system. Except any of those may or may not interface with the steering wheel controls and probably wouldn't have all the features of the factory system. So I just deal with it and get very frustrated when I have to explain the noise to passengers. If Chrysler is going to put sophisticated and complex electronics in their vehicles, maybe they could support their inevitable problems by staffing their dealerships with more than just one guy for all things interior. I've attempted to fix this problem myself. But to confirm or eliminate the most likely component at fault--the dash head unit--I need to buy a used one for at least $300 and just hope that it's OK, then get it serialized to my vehicle just to enable it to operate--a service that the dealer charges $100 for. Then suppose it's not the head, or the replacement head has some other problem? Then what? No thanks. I'll just deal with it. Like I'm also dealing with the inoperative visor mirror lights and the flickering exterior courtesy lights under the side mirrors, and the weird map light problem where they come on when the doors open, but don't operate in any other way. And don't even get me started on the rattles and squeaks."

"Blue tooth stopped working. Replaced the mod"

"Driver side rocker panel and cab corner needed replacing"

"After having transmission fuel replaced (routine maintenance) the computer codes went "haywire" and I was told to take it in to the dealer. Dealer is 30 mile drive, and I got off the freeway when, two blocks from destination, the transmission got stuck in 4th gear and the "check engine" light lit up! Good thing it was only two blocks (one signal light also) from dealer - they discovered the solenoid had "gone bad" and had to be replaced. i am supposing it had gotten contaminated with something"