Subaru Forester Change Vehicle

"It made the Check Engine Line go on and had to e replaced. The mechanic told me it was an emissions problem"

"The cost of replacing the Catalytic converter is very expensive and I have had to do it 3 times"

"needed replacement"

"Unit stopped working as designed"

"Deterioration from salt exposure and being parked outside for work most likely caused exhaust leak"

"Exhaust fumes leaking into cabin. Have not determined cause. Have not had it repaired. Seldom drive this car. Torn axle boot on RF wheel. Not yet replaced"

"Noise not excessive but decided to have the system repaired"

"Car is 18 years old and exhaust system had deteriorated"

"Loose bolts"

"Normal wear , needed a new exhaust system."

"Muffler was rusting, needed new one"

"Rusted aged muffler needed replacement."

"entire exhausr system needed replacement. Low mileage but old. So not surprising."

"the clock display went out very early, dealer said it would cost a lot to fix"

"Subaru dealer fixed damage to front wheel after car was hit while parked. Cruise control no longer works"

"my gauges on the far left side and far right side no longer have lights, making it impossible to see them at night while driving"

"bulbs in headlight burn out quickly; short out"

"Front driver side headlight burns out once a year for last 3 years"

"replaced light socket"

"Cover over headlights oxidizes and yellows"

"right headlight went out. Presumably, the bulb was bad. In replacing the bulb, discovered the connector/pigtail TO the bulb was shorted and melted. Ordered a replacement pigtails for both sides; replaced the right only. All fine since."

"dashboard lights and ac buttion light are expired. Cost to replace is way to high - have to remove much of dashboard"

"Failure of electronic key to open the doors"

"check engine light . found to be fuel sensor."

"Leaking rear lights cause bulbs to short out"

"Finally, the seals on the oil pump are leaking and will need to be replaced soon."

"All of the weather stripping/gaskets have come off the windshield. This caused air and water leaks. We were able to use Flex Seal to fill the gaps, but were unable to re-install the plastic frame ourselves. The Flex Seal has worked very well."

"The weather stripping on the bottom of the doors froze to the car body and pulled off. The system of attaching the stripping to the body is not very good, and are difficult to repair at home"

"Most likely it is the catalytic converter brackets"

"Ongoing problems with noise due to loosened heat shield, since early ownership of auto"

"Rattling from the under carriage. Sounds like the muffler is loose"

"Terrible rattle with the exhaust firewall. Had to remove it"

"There is no airtight seal around the window on front driver side. There can be a slight whistle at times."

"Air leaks around front doors"

"when driving over 25 mph, wind rushing sounds get noisy & distracting"

"Windows are frameless. Over time, the rubber seals lost flexibility and wind noise increased. Replacing driver and passenger door seals cost over $300 including install"

"Check engine light always on. Read-out says replace catalytic converter"

"Vapor canister components rusted and leaked causing check engine light to come on"

"both catalytic converters needed replacing @ 135,000 mi"

"As indicated above, the fuel cap and the 2 sensors can be a problem. I've even had one repair place tell me I needed a new catalytic convertor, but second opinion said I didn't"

"Check engine light was on - due to defective O2 sensor which was replaced, then passed emissions. Ran fine while check engine light was on"

"dirty sensors that needed to be cleaned"

"I have had to replace the catalytic converter at about 75,000 miles. However the previous owner drove the car for only 23 miles at a time, living close to work. Often on the oxygen sensor light has turned on"

"Both O2 sensors became faulty and had to be replaced"

"Both sensors replaced because of check engine light"

"My check engine light comes on frequently. When I have it checked, it usually indicates the fuel cap, but I have had multiple O2 sensors replaced"

"Check engine light on. Frequently"

"rear rotors had to be replaced along with normal brake pads all around"

"Normal brake wear and tear"

"No problems, just needed normal pad replacement on front brakes"

"Caliper frozen caused pad wear."

"Associated with Caliper freezing. When this event happens, the steering wheel shudders. As well, the whole brake assembly heats up and is damaged, requiring replacement. I suspect poor quality aftermarket non-Subaru certified parts as being the problem."

"Pads needed replaced as expected at 119000 miles, first pad replacement!"

"Rotors not "true", and pads failed - regrind rotors replace pads per shop a lot of wear on components. Yet my driving rather sedate (try to maximize gas mileage, soft starts and stops)"

"Rotors failed before brake pads"

"rear brakes seem to squeal even after replacing rotors and pads, problem is on going"

"Cracked rear brake drum"

"The clutch's throw out bearing was making a noise. So, we replaced the clutch while replacing the bearing"

"It burnt out At 40200 miles. This is the first time i needed a clutch in any of my cars with less than 120000 miles"

"Needed to replace clutch. Replacement required 4 trips to the shop. Says more about repair shop than vehicle, I guess"

"Clutch was wearing out but still worked as long as driven gently."

"To our complete shock, the transmission went out at 19000 mi and was replaced under warranty. In the last couple of years we have had leaks from the transmission pan that hit the exhaust & gave off hot oil smell. No after-market mechanic wanted to"

"When shifting into Drive it would take up to 3 minutes to engage. Trans was rebuilt for $1,900 and took 1 week plus a return trip that took 2 more days to get it right"

"broken transmission"

"Serious breakdown of clear coat on hood and front roof. Waxed car two times yearly with hi-quality products, washed car weekly with product made for car finishes"

"Clear sealer coat has begun to fail on one door and front section of top (in front of sun roof). Gradually getting bigger. No rust involved at this point. Trying to decide whether worth while to repaint since body intergrity does not appear to be an issue. An appearance issue only, at this point."

"This car has a lot of rust both underneath and on the body"

"The car had sufficent rust that it did not pass inspection until we cut the rusty piece out and replaced it with a metal patch."

"body rust around rear wheel wells"

"We have a likely rear wheel bearing problem, causing a wub-wub noise that varies with tire speed. The car is in limited use until we can get it to a mechanic."

"Both front axle shafts had to be replaced at 120,000 mile check up"

"I never noticed anything wrong but the mechanic did and recommended replacing the CV Axle"

"axle boot caused lubrication leak which would have caused a serious problem down the road"

"We noticed a grinding noise in our drive system (primarily on inclines) and a local transmission shop explained that one or more of the gears became loose on its shaft causing it not to engage fully on its mating gear"

"The thermostat got stuck. I drove to car too much afterward which caused my engine to fail. Both are fixed after large expenses."

"As mentioned earlier, it seems that there was a chain reaction that started with the breaking of the water pump pulley, resulting in timing belt break"

"water pump was replaced as part of the timing belt work"

"connector between temp control and heater door fell apart leaving system on full "heat" all the time"

"A repeated need to recharge the system every two years, despite paying for a leak test"

"Radio turn on/off randomly."

"Radio/cd player did not work at time of purchase"

"Sometimes the car would start, other time not start. Took it in to the garage and found the starter needed replacing"

"I just described the trans oil leaks which hit the exhaust system & caused an awful hot oil smell even after a 15 min. drive"