Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“System failed completely”

“Brake fluid was leaking from right rear caliper”

“left front caliper cracked, reducing braking effectiveness”

“rear brakes had to be replaced - but it's an old car”

“I am not familiar with the Honda disk braking system(s) and am not sure what constitutes normal wear on a caliper. However, I got more mileage on the Honda Accord brakes before re-lining than all the previously owned Detroit made automobiles made by”

“After correcting pads and rotors,it was discovered that the Master cylinder had to be replaced”

“this is actually 1998 Honda accord with 86000 original miles. The brake master cylinder was replaced due to a leak which aint bad after 16 years”

“Parking brake light sticks on”

“parking brake would not engage. Rear calipers were frozen-did not operate properly; hence parking brake was inoperative. new rotors, calipers and disc brake pads were required to fix the problem”

“Just needed reworking. normal wear”

“Warp”

“Twice in the past year or so, I've had to have the rotors ground down because they warped and made the car shudder when coming to a stop, off the freeway or high speeds especially”

“had to replace front brake rotors due to wear. these had been resurfaced some years previous”

“Squeaking, replaced pads. Rotors were OK”

“break lines rotten from being outside in the New England winters”

“The brakes have squeaked since the car was less than year old. The brake pads have been replaced numerous times, and the brakes have been examined numerous times, with the issue remaining unresolved”

“braking system seized and needed totally replacement”

“Pads and rotors replaced, but within expected window”

“I was due for normal brake replacement because of the mileage on the car”

“The brake line was corroded and leaking break fluid. As a result the break light was on steady. Also the rear breaks needed to be replaced. The gas line was corroded also and crumbled while trying to replace”

“I had to replace the calipers on rear brakes due to routine break wear according to the dealer”

“I am happy with the wear and tear on the brakes. Better than a lot of cars in the same age range”

“I love this car.This is my 4th Honda (3 Accords and 1 Civic).They run forwever.My favorite was my 1986 Accord that I sold at 220,000 miles to my Dad's secretary's son, who drove it another 20Kmiles before a trash truck backed into it”

“Needs some adjustment. A little rough”

“One evening when changing gears, the clutch pedal stayed depressed to the floor. I had to reach down and manually pull it up. Next day when driving to have the car serviced, clutch worked fine. The service department determined there was a leak”

“No warning and unable to put in drive, reverse, etc. Car only had 63,000 miles”

“transmission quit working - replaced with used”

“The transmission does not have a serviceable fluid filter. Requires you take it to the dealer for periodic flushing of a screen filter internal to the transmission. Was not aware of this feature. Rebuilt transmission came with the requirement to add an after market inline filter between the fluid cooler and the transmission or the warranty would be void”

“Could not shift. Had transmission rebuilt”

“Rebuilt transmission because of slipping”

“the transmission wore out and had to be replaced. No surprise, the car had over 280000 miles and this was the original transmission”

“car only has 86k miles and the transmission has to be replaced for $2,000. My mechanic states the 2000 thru 2003 honda's had transmission problems. Very upset as this is the first major problem we have had with auto”

“I'm told by mechanics that 2000-04 Accord transmissions are known to fail at 120k miles. Mine did and had to be rebuilt”

“Transmission failed over 3 day period at 190,000 miles. Elected to replace with new equipment. Otherwise, car runs good”

“the transmission started leaking fluid and slipping. It had to be replaced $5,500”

“Installed new transmission. Intermittently, it is shifting hard. Dealer cannot locate problem”

“Replacement went without difficulty”

“I had to replace transmission for $1800”

“Service engine light came on...pressure was being lost affecting shifting gears”

“Due to the slippage of the transmission, I had it replaced with a rebuilt transmission”

“My car is actually a 1996 Honda. I just keep replacing parts. I first did the transmission and then the clutch”

“honda extended the warranty on the transmission to 100k miles, but failed to notify owners. the transmission began failing at 80 and I replaced at 107 (because i had to save the money up) ...and honda would not contribute a cent to the cost”

“broke”

“Car stalls out while at a stop sign/light or while idling. Check engine light on. Honda dealer unable to diagnose correctly; kept replacing alternator, distrib. coil, ignition parts. Gave up and went to independent dealer, who fixed at once w/new d”

“Intermittenly, stalls when starting after engine has warmed up. Dealer says to replace engine management computer at cost of $1500”

“ENGINE MOUNTS NEEDED REPLACEMENT WITH ONLY ABOUT 60000 MILES DRIVEN”

“Had to replace one engine moumt that was broken. it was the front engine mount”

“WHEN STARTING, THE rpm GOES UP TO "THREE", AND GOES BACK TO BELOW "TWO". MECHANIC, AND FRIEND WHO KNOWS CARS, SAID THAT ONE OR MORE OF THE ENGIN MOUNTS NEEDED REPLACEMENT”

“Replaced furl tank”

“Fuel tank developed a leak near the seam on the lower portion of the tank.Honda wanted about $1200.00 to replace it. It had an independent service garage do the repair for $600. Again Honda Parts and Service TOO Expensive”

“We just started having trouble with fuel system leaks and will probably have to junk the car because fixing the problem costs more than the car is worth”

“minor, main problem is dripping on garage floor”

“Oil spots began to appear under the car after being driven. We investigated and found that the RTV seal around the oil pan showed signs of seepage. We removed the oil pan and replaced the seal. Oil leaks disappeared subsequently”

“I was told the oil pan needed a new seal. Mechanic said it was not important to replace it, however, I continue to have to put oil in over a period of time”

“ive been leaking oil for over 5 years”

“It leaks when it is parked after driving”

“main seal leaking, cost too much to repair, will let leak”

“It seems to be an oil seal leaking”

“Leaks from head gasket, I think it was the distributor (2 O rings)”

“Burns oil and have to frequently check oil to make sure that have oil so engine does not seize up. Even have to do this after have had an oil change a short while before”

“Oil seal around filter wore out. The seal around the timing belt cover was most likely improperly installed when the timing belt was changed last year”

“Add about a half quart a month, change oil every 3,500-4,000 miles”

“Leaking oil from gasket which was by 3 mechanics. Finally, one mechanic resolved the issue but it was difficult”

“AC compressor had to be replaced”

“locked up, needs to be replaced”

“replaced once”

“AC does not work properly and after return from shop repair, then only heat”

“Heater control unit stopped responding to button controls and rotary knobs, Was replaced and problem solved”

“Motor stopped working causing loss of control on system”

“it had bad gasket/seals”

“Had to replace the condenser”

“AC would turn off intermittently and usually turn on after a few minutes. Problem was traced to a corroded cable connecting the AC controls to the unit”

“controls”

“A/C leak - couldn't find first time but next time car in they found it. Had put something in to help trace it”

“AC was not cooling. Recharged system”

“I needed to have refrigerant frequently recharged”

“Drain for sun roof came loose and caused rain to drain into the floor board of car for several months before it was discovered”

“Breakage in tube funneling water from sun roof to drainage aft of left front tire”

“Water leaked into passenger compartment during heavy rains resulting in soaked floor mats. Dealer checked drains and cleared the problem”

“Serious leak developed in driver side, windshield!”

“Trunk seal appears to have deteriorated”

“drainage pipe from the sunroof was blocked and water leaked into the floorboard”

“Moon roof drain plugged up causing interior leak”

“Trunk weatherstripping seal has failed. Water leaks into trunk”

“Various "old-car" squeaks and rattles”

“Both window regulators failed recently and will need to be replaced”

“doors”

“Windows no longer seem to shut tightly enough to keep out wind noise on highway or freeway”

“It sounds like a door or window is open at speeds above 25”

“sometimes the dash lites do not work. no one can tell us what the problem is”

“The dashboard gauge lights failed this week of April 2015”

“Dash lights are intermittent at night sometimes they work but not often”

“Headlights are difficult and expensive to replace”

“The entire instrument back-light cluster has gone out. My research has suggested that this (like the paint) is a known issue. Apparently, the multiplex unit that controls the back-light and other dash electronics can short out. The Honda dealer said that the bulbs had burned out, but it would cost $300 to take the dash apart to check it; I don't patron their service department anymore”

“All but 1 overhead interior light is out, lights on dash are out, light on clock frequently goes out and has to be tapped back on”

“Keyless entry batteries have not been replaced, but only because we use one and have two. Replacement keys need to be copied early, or they become expensive to replace”

“Engine warning light on”

“Brake light wouldn't go out. Dealership checked brakes said okay but light stayed on. Finally replaced rear rotors and light went out”

“Wiper will not start right away in winter months”

“Gear box failed”

“The car lost the tail lights, brake lights and turn signal, but the headlights and turn signal in the front still worked”

“Needed to replace electronic ignition. Prior to replacing, car would shut down expectantly while driving”

“Ignition just quit while driving on 2 occasions. Luckily both were while backing out of driveway... switch had been e recall unit early in its life and was declared ok but when I had the problem it was much older and they Did replace the switch no charge when I challenged them as a safety item do to history”

“Ignition switch failed at app. 80,000 mi while car was in operation. Required tow and replacement by independent mechanic”

“Ignition switch is defective and the car id number is not in the recall list. The ignition can be turned off while the car is NOT in park. I reported this to the NTSB years ago and they did not respond. It is definately a safety hazzard”

“1998 but couldn't select. One spark plug rusted up at base. Couldn't start car. Changed out 3 things before checked spark plug at dealership. How did water get in to rust?”

“Needed to replace 3 spark plugs & related coils as coils part of spark plug. These are expensive, with the three spark plug/coils replaced costing almost $400.00. Previously, had to replace 3 spark plugs/coils, again at high cost”

“It was actually something to do with the fuel getting through to the spark plugs”

“Had to replace starter”

“The car was making a whining noise that got louder over time. I also noticed that some of the accessory lights would flicker. Both issues were due to the alternator which had to be replaced”

“Alternator issue required me to stop in a city a significant distance from my final destination during the winter. Replacing it earlier would have prevented this issue”

“The battery died prematurely. Had to go to Costco and replace the battery. Purchased new battery with credit for remaining years left on warranty life”

“Hard to re-start engine after running hot and stopping. Diagnosed the problem to the individual ignition coil and increased resistance due to age and heat. Replaced all 6 ignition coils and new spark plugs”

“Dealer identified as problem, but wife tolerates (we don't want to invest $5K in this car)”

“the transmission has been slipping for about 5 years or more”

“transmission slips, problem is worse during colder weather”

“The leak was discovered during an oil change visit. Evidently the transmission is slowly breaking up”

“Transmission fluid leak too expensive to repair. Requires about 1 bottle replacement fluid every 2 weeks”

“Some small part had to be replaced”

“Stutter in reverse, especially when parked on an incline surface”

“Check engine light came on and required a solenoid to be replaced.$152 CDN”

“rough shifting caused by failed sensor”

“The rough shifting was caused by the clutch going out”

“rough shifting”

“Passenger door lock does not always open with remote control. At times must open with key”

“Drivers side door latch broke in locked position at approximately. 60.000 mi. Independent Mechanic spent several hours getting door to open w/o damage to door panel. Repair cost app $400”

“Power lock on front passenger side has not work for the last 4 years”

“Locks failed to work on drivers door”

“rear view mirror fell out of ceiling”

“window partially fell on passenger side”

“Driver rear window slipping out of track had to be repaired”

“Right passenger window slid open by itself and power switch would not close it. Had to replace regulator twice”

“The driver's seat heat burns legs even on low, right at the front edge of the seat, just before the knees”

“Honda fixed this. Driver's seatbelt not functioning correctly”

“I need to get the dual exhaust system replaced. System noise than most not getting optimal performance”

“entire exhaust system just rotted out. 15 years without a problem”

“Welded sections of exhaust pipe. Still not perfect”

“muffler had to be replaced”

“complete failure of brake lines. drove 3 days using only hand brake”

“Honda accord is actually a 1997 model. Hole in exhaust system that needs to be replaced. Car works great, but value is not much so I have put off making repairs. Also, put off because paint on car has begun to fade because of sun damage. New paint”

“Where the front and back pipe meet the weld gave out. It's an old car”

“replaced at 106,000 miles”

“Balance shaft seal failed and dumped engine oil on the ground. The seal and all rubber belts had to be replaced. Another problem, oil pump leaked and required replacement of rubber belts”

“Mostly, I blame the dealership that sold me the car because I believe the rings were leaking when i bought the car. They kept making excuses until the "Certified Pre-Owned warranty ran out”

“Needed to replace gasket”

“I was told that the timing belt needs to be replaced every 7 years or 100,000 miles. I've owned my car for 15 years and it has 128,000 miles so it was overdue for a new timing belt”

“Code to reset radioactive battery replacement unavailable”