Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Just needed replacement, worn out. It was not blowing cold air, may have had leak, not sure”

“the blower speed control module needed to be replaced”

“Blower fan motor stopped working requiring replacement”

“A/C stopped working. Repair found condenser leaking; replaced condenser and receiver/dryer”

“I think it is a condenser problem. It blows hot air. I had it recharged and now it is doing it again. It could be the result of an accident may daughter had in my car in 2005. I don't think they replaced it with a new unit”

“dashboard module that controls the climate system failed. buttons to operate A/C, exhaust, etc. did not function”

“The climate control motherboard failed. It would get stuck on either heat or a/c and was nearly impossible to turn off. Very uncomfortable if it didn't match the season!”

“Suspect evaporator leaks. Replacing it is a tedious task. Always replace the expansion valve when so dong as it is such a pain to do it later. Test all new components prior to installing them!”

“There leaks in the system, and as I explained the compressor was not working”

“Had to have system recharged. Worked fine all year, but when turned on this spring didn't cool very much”

“It is an old car. It is necessary to replace all of the seals in the A/c system as the rubber O-rings get brittle and crack and leak. I am doing it now. Figure overhauling the HVAC after 11 years or 150k mi which ever occurs last”

“Leaking radiator hoses needed replacing”

“See previous”

“Mainly noise i.e. banging and squeewking”

“Power steering unit was not leaking, it was on the rack & pinion. See previous answer”

“Dealer said power steering fluid was leaking, but have not had any problem with power steering. My own mechanic said to ignore”

“Power steering pump weakened and was replaced”

“After replacing the power steering rack, the leaks are gone. But, the new pump is noisy and there are new rattles to torture me,”

“Shocks & struts were both worn and needed replacement. Affected tire wear on a new set of tires. Got 30,000 miles on a set of 60,000 mile tire warranty”

“Rear shocks started leaking”

“Rear struts needed replacing”

“The car has over 130000 miles and needs new shocks. I consider this normal and not a quality issue”

“The power steering fluid was leaking from the rack & pinion. The seals wore out in the rack & pinion unit. Rack and pinion was replaced. The power steering unit itself was not leaking; old rack&pinion unit still functioned-just little harder to turn”

“Needed replacement when ball joint repaired”

“Growling noise, bearing was replaced”

“One front wheel bearing was noisy, near end of life, requiring replacement”

“Brake pads replaced in the course of normal operation. Rotor turned once”

“Seems like the rear brakes get worn fairly frequently. Seems like they only last 2-3,years. The front brakes are much more durable. Our other car's rear brakes last much longer”

“The rear calipers were seizing due to age and the rear rotors were worn past safe limit”

“needed new rotors”

“The break wear was diagnosed by the dealer when I went in for the airbag recall. My mechanic identified both brake wear and rotors needing to be changed”

“Normal wair for a car of this age this only the second brake job I will be having and the muffler has never been replaced”

“Premature wear on break rotors due to infrequent driving and salt / sand etc. from a long winter”

“new pads and rotors”

“frequent replacement”

“New Brake pads replaced from normal ware”

“THEY ARE PERFECT”

“The Malfunction Indicator Lamp went on yesterday indicating a problem . I'm calling for an appointment today to have the problem addressed”

“The car did not pass emission. A repair involved some valve that was rusted. The replacement was $650 (including inspection, fuel cap replacement as well as this repair). The problem was fixed”

“Check engine light always on”

“EVAP System gave a code. Replaced the ailing parts myself and fixed the problem”

“The pipe broke at the emission control”

“Car shimmied when transitioning fro 25-35 MPH, Then the check engine light went on, we did all of the least expensive try to fix it, then had to spend 2000. Dollars to repair the emissions control”

“clogged, wouldn't pass emissions test. Had to clean and replace”

“Received a check engine light. The problem was the closed fuel line system sensor. Replacement of the evap canister pump rectified the situation”

“The computer detected a problem with the fuel cap, which was replaced”

“The recirculating values, ERG?, needed replacing”

“O2 sensor died, but it looked like it had never been replaced. It gave about 200000 in good service before the O2 sensor died, so while serious, I think it speaks highly of the dependability”

“Stopped functioning entirely”

“I needed to repair the gauge light connection”

“After travelling heavily salted roads for several months, drivers side headlight went very dim, as well as both high beams. (all four headlights were on at the same time, but only the right low beam illuminated properly) Unable to turn high beams off”

“audio system does not light up”

“Rear passenger auto lock motor failed and needed to be replaced”

“I got the vehicle when it was 2 years old. The backlight in the clock and the fuel warning light never worked”

“air bag warning goes on”

“had to replace sensors ??”

“Turn signals quit working”

“low fuel light doesn't come on”

“seat belt switch melfunchon was on recall and was fixed”

“Stopped working”

“CD player began to show ERR code and then froze up - completely - no play - no ejection of any of the six discs - no function even after unhooking the car battery and then resetting the unit via ID code. Radio function is all OK. Thie problem b”

“The factory original 6-disk CD player jammed, with disks in it that were not mine. 2001 vehicle, failure in the fall of 2014”

“no longer loads and unloads CDs and often gives an error”

“CD player damages the CD's so they won't play in the damaged areas”

“Locked up, will no longer eject or load CDs”

“"drive" indicator does not light up low fuel indicator does not light up light over odometer does not light up brake light comes on occasionally for no reason”

“The clock has lost its numbers. The 7 is a one and the 6 is a C. No solution. The dash lights are fading and we have it turned as high as they are able to go”

“Had to replace the gas tank. It was a horrible job. The entire rear end of the car has to be taken apart. I wish I had just replaced the car”

“Serious oil leak from engine. I will replace this vehicle shortly”

“Lower engine seal needs replaced”

“do not remember details. Involved the oil pump”

“Started leaking oil and can't get it repaired easily”

“Rear Main Seal”

“Had an oil pan leak that was expensive to fix as it basically required the same amount of work/cost as changing a timing belt which had just been done 3 years prior”

“bracket to engine broke multiple times and had to replace alternator”

“normal wear use”

“There is a coil for each cylinder. After a car wash I had to replace one. After the next heavy rain I had to replace two more”

“Check engine light came on and required new distributor part which was expensive ~$500”

“One is while the car will not start (1 once year). But, give it 30 minutes then it will start”

“2 ignition coils went bad”

“had to replace”

“mechanic says under side is rusted and dificult to get parts to stay in place”

“generally my problems have dealt with normal wear and tear on a 15 year old car. It's still in good shape even though I do not care for the body and interior to well”

“Because the car was a V6, it had two mufflers. The left side, which was damaged in an accident, was replaced several times with after market products. The original stainless steel muffler on the right side has never needed to be replaced”

“Muffler and pipes bent in an accident several years ago. Finally got around to getting it fixed”

“Due to corrosion of the pipes underneath, a big expense occurred. Apparently, it was dripping oil as well as losing power”

“ABS light went on. The sensor in the seatbelt needed to be replaced”

“the driver side window 'sticks' in cold weather; I can't make it go up & down; it gets stuck in the down position and I can't close it in the winter; big problem!”

“both windows stop after a few seconds, They then will continue after several seconds wait as if it needs to rest”

“Driver's door window motor died last winter. VERY expensive to replace”

“Accords are notorious for wind and road noise. Our 2001 is no exception. Can not have a conversation at highway speeds. Will probably not look at Hondas when making a new purchase”

“Front windows don't seal properly when closed so there is wind noise from both. Left seal was actually replaced, but still has same problem”

“belt broke, need valve job as a result, car has too many miles to pay for that expense”

“it was time to have the timing belt replaced”