Honda Accord

"Engin revs when shifting into second gear. Spent $700.00 getting it fixed@ dealership. Still does the same thing, check engine light is on but if I tke my foot off the gas the car shifts and once the engine is armed up, it never hapens again. So I'm"

"No problems with the rebuild. What led to the rebuild was rough shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshift from 2nd to 1st gears"

"This car has had 2 transmission replacements. Once under warranty...second time paid for either the part or the labor (cannot remember). The last one was 80K ago...we are probably due for another soon"

"Transmission broke and replaced with a new transmission"

"Honda replaced the automatic transmission as the car had 435,000 miles on it, runs fine now"

"Currently requires a rebuild due to flushing transmission, seems that flushing Honda transmissions and this model year in particular results in failure"

"A code came up indicating a rebuild or replacement was necessary"

"Transmission broke down within days of hearing loud sounds during shifting. Cost $3500 for a rebuilt trans; still having problems now"

"Had to have transmission replaced, Would not engage in gear"

"slipage in the 1-2 shift... in addition to a roaring sound and vibration"

"Sudden Failure Replaced with New Transmission"

"There's not too much to describe. The transmission was slipping for awhile then eventually went out and needed to be rebuilt/replaced"

"After fixed, is running fine"

"Finally gave out, had shifted hard for years. In the end the engine light came on and the trans had a harder time shifting out of low gears"

"Transmission rebuilt"

"Transmission would slip in and out of gear while driving--transmission of this model year are known to have major transmission issues"

"transmission went out and had to be replaced. cost was minimal at $2800"

"Honda repair was unreasonably expensive. I opted instead to replace the transmission with a salvage yard transmission for about half the cost"

"Transmission was rebuilt in 2016 not within this past year.. However I feel like Honda should have had a recall and they did not do so. The transmission was expensive to replace."

"Indicator light came on. I felt no difficulty with the car, although I had a slipping transmission for a couple of years from 2012-13, so I was prepared with an extended warranty when this happened. Needed to have transmission rebuild in December, 2016. Also had engine mounts replaced twice; 1x in 2012 and 1x in 2013. I drive fast on the freeway and did a lot of freeway driving those years"

"3rd transmission in this car - that is a real flaw in an otherwise excellent car"

"transmission died at 164,000 miles complete rebuilt necessary 3,000 dollar job at private mechanic"

"rough shifting, engine light on"

"Typical transmission failure for Honda Accords 1998-2002. Bad design. New it was coming for years. Well documented problem"

"Had to be replaced"

"Four gear was slipping."

"Caliper failure led to noise, mushy pedal and questionable stopping distance"

"rear driver brake had severe rust and required replacement to pass inspection"

"had to replace them because parking brake use hastened their demise. Still have the original front calipers at 160,000 miles"

"Just old, and needed replacement. Sticking calipers caused premature pad and rotor wear. Had to replace all three on rear wheels"

"The master cylinder needed replaced and all of the brake lines due to corrosion."

"I had been alerted to the wear and need to attend to the problem by my mechanic, and had the worn linings replaced"

"Usual and expected brake work since this car had no repairs in the past. This is a US car imported into CA"

"Brake pads replaced in the course of normal operation. Rotor turned once"

"Seems like the rear brakes get worn fairly frequently. Seems like they only last 2-3,years. The front brakes are much more durable. Our other car's rear brakes last much longer"

"The rear calipers were seizing due to age and the rear rotors were worn past safe limit"

"needed new rotors"

"The break wear was diagnosed by the dealer when I went in for the airbag recall. My mechanic identified both brake wear and rotors needing to be changed"

"Normal wair for a car of this age this only the second brake job I will be having and the muffler has never been replaced"

"Premature wear on break rotors due to infrequent driving and salt / sand etc. from a long winter"

"new pads and rotors"

"Just normal routine brake repair and replacement"

"This auto used for work (Home care RN). City roads are tough!"

"frequent replacement"

"I have had the rotors replaced three times since purchasing the car. All three times, I specified that I was willing to pay extra for top quality rotors. After the first two replacements, the pulsation problem reappeared within the first month or two. The last time the rotors were replaced, I again emphasized having top quality rotors installed. When the car was ready,the mechanic showed me the ticket for the rotors to verify the quality. That was nearly a year ago, and the pulsation has not returned."

"New Brake pads replaced from normal ware"

"THEY ARE PERFECT"

"Just regular repair and replacement"

"Wear and tear in front axle. Replaced with new brake pads"

"The car from new is on its 5th set of rotors and 1 set of rear rotors. This included replacement front and rear rotors. The problem is warping"

"had to replace the original rotors and calipers at 158,000 miles. also replaced rear pads that had 70,000 miles on them"

"Stopped functioning entirely"

"CRUISE CEASED FUNCTIONING,WIRE HARNESS WAS 300.00 DOLLARS......I DID NOT REPAIR VECHICLE...."

"Turning indicator light fails intermittently"

"I needed to repair the gauge light connection"

"The panel for the climate control intermittently cuts in and out of service. When it is off you can not control the AC or heat"

"After travelling heavily salted roads for several months, drivers side headlight went very dim, as well as both high beams. (all four headlights were on at the same time, but only the right low beam illuminated properly) Unable to turn high beams off"

"too dim"

"headlight with age became so bad that couldn't make out whether they were on or off. Plastic completely fogged up"

"audio system does not light up"

"This problem started at least ten years ago as a loose wire or short. I would fix the problem by slapping the dashboard. As time went by, I had slap it harder and harder and I had to move my hand around until I slapped the correct place on the dashboard that would turn on my dashboard lights again. Eventually, my method of fixing the problem stopped working all together. That is when I went to a hardware store and bought some Velcro and a flashlight that would fit on my steering column. This method has safely saved me hundreds of dollars."

"Fuses are all intact, but chime no longer works when lights remain on and key is removed. Leaving any lights (interior or exterior) on accidentally drains the battery"

"Rear passenger auto lock motor failed and needed to be replaced"

"Keyless entry works intermittently, possibly weather dependent, despite the keyless battery remote being new/almost new. (In warmer weather it tends to respond as expected. In colder weather - for GA - it sometimes does not work until you are at the car or at all."

"I got the vehicle when it was 2 years old. The backlight in the clock and the fuel warning light never worked"

"air bag warning goes on"

"had to replace sensors ??"

"Turn signals quit working"

"low fuel light doesn't come on"

"seat belt switch melfunchon was on recall and was fixed"

"This is an ongoing problem. My dashboard lights do not work and haven't for years. I have mounted a small flashlight on the steering column that I turn on when it gets dark. The brake warning light comes on and stays on for a long time sometime. This has been going on for about a year and a half. I have checked to make sure that the parking brake is not on at all and there is no indication that the main brakes are engaged. I have not had these problems fixed because I have been told that it is a major project that will cost hundreds of dollars. This car is very old and has a lot of miles so I would expect some problems."

"EGR error code continues to appear even after 2 garages say they fix the problem"

"Bushings failed"

"replace wiper motor"

"Unbeknownst to me, the problem existed since I bought the car 8 years ago. When the converter finally failed completely (i.e., the internal components came loose and made the engine unusable), I had the converter replaced, and I immediately experienced improved engine performance and my gas mileage immediately increased by 20 percent."

"Coded out on OBD, Was replaced fairly inexpensively. Did not seem to affect vehicle performance."

"Rattling noise and check engine light"

"Exhaust leak fills interior of car with exhaust smell, need to drive with windows open"

"On heat blower: speed 1 and 2 not working, the resister controlling the fan speed required replacement. On exhaust: the flexible section "rotted", pipe connect flange and bolts rusted"

"Almost all of the exhaust system joints had rusted and crumbled. This is the first time in the life of the car (16 yr,158K miles) that I needed repairs to the exhaust. I have no complaints"

"mechanic says under side is rusted and dificult to get parts to stay in place"

"generally my problems have dealt with normal wear and tear on a 15 year old car. It's still in good shape even though I do not care for the body and interior to well"

"It rattled on bumpy roads, the mechanic fixed it"

"Because the car was a V6, it had two mufflers. The left side, which was damaged in an accident, was replaced several times with after market products. The original stainless steel muffler on the right side has never needed to be replaced"

"Muffler and pipes bent in an accident several years ago. Finally got around to getting it fixed"

"Loud noise. Getting tooo loud now. Replacement and overall cost of repairing properly is in the thousands"

"Auto used for work (Home care RN), and covers a lot of territory. City roads are tough!"

"The harness under the passenger seat for the airbag sensor has an electrical short. This causes the sen sor light to show the airbags are not functioning, and disables the airbag system. The airbags themselves are fine. The harness is not available and is no longer made by Honda or a third party. Result: none of the airbags in the car will function in a crash."

"Two lights came on and the Side Airbag light has come on since it was new. Honda replaced the seat belt for free, but it cost me $700 for the diagnostic and everything else. I hate getting overcharged by the dealer, but the car would not get inspected with the lights on."

"Light comes on intermittently."

"intermittent warning light, airbag recall 2nd time"

"SRS lamp on"

"Airbag problem is being recall as of this week."

"Airbag warning light diagnosed to complete sensor array including setback module. Entire Airbag system has had recalls but Honda is not reporting all of the failures or providing reasonable customer service."

"The passenger airbag electronic system is defective and malfunctioning supposedly caused by moisture as indicated by Honda dealer. The new airbag electronic component has been ordered and installed, but the new part does not seem to want to communicate with the main SRS computer, however, a new replacement part was ordered and installed and the same problem as occurred, no communications with the SRS computer. This car has been in the dealer since April 22, 2018 and it is still being diagnosed as of May 7, 2018."

"The seat belts stopped retracting when not in use which caused the sensor in the buckle to become damaged"

"Due to corrosion of the pipes underneath, a big expense occurred. Apparently, it was dripping oil as well as losing power"

"The Malfunction Indicator Lamp went on yesterday indicating a problem . I'm calling for an appointment today to have the problem addressed"

"The car did not pass emission. A repair involved some valve that was rusted. The replacement was $650 (including inspection, fuel cap replacement as well as this repair). The problem was fixed"

"Check engine light always on"

"EVAP System gave a code. Replaced the ailing parts myself and fixed the problem"

"The pipe broke at the emission control"

"Car shimmied when transitioning fro 25-35 MPH, Then the check engine light went on, we did all of the least expensive try to fix it, then had to spend 2000. Dollars to repair the emissions control"

"clogged, wouldn't pass emissions test. Had to clean and replace"

"Received a check engine light. The problem was the closed fuel line system sensor. Replacement of the evap canister pump rectified the situation"

"Failed emissions test and needed repair in order to continue driving it."

"The check engine light came on fo rthe first time in 18 years of owning the car. I took it to the dealer and the said the entire EGR system had to be replaced. I tried replacing the gas cap first. $850 for this repair and I still have the same gas smell shortly after engine startup. I thought the new system and cost would fix that. Again, no inspection sticker with the light illuminated."

"Catalytic converter is broken and sends warning light, although the car continues to pass state emissions inspection."

"The computer detected a problem with the fuel cap, which was replaced"

"Idle was too low. Replaced throttle position sensor"

"Must of got bad fuel or injectors clogged. Lucas took care of the problem,"

"The recirculating values, ERG?, needed replacing"

"O2 sensor died, but it looked like it had never been replaced. It gave about 200000 in good service before the O2 sensor died, so while serious, I think it speaks highly of the dependability"

"Car failed emissions test, even after replacing catalytic converter."

"SRS and Check Engine light came on. Cost $1,100 to fix, but the car is almost 20 years old. It still is an amazing vehicle."

"After checking the codes, the codes indicated oxygen sensor faults. The dealer changed all the Oxygen Sensors, but, occasionally, the same oxygen sensor codes turn on and off and usually clear by themselves with no codes indicated!!!"

"Check Engine Light stayed on. Now corrected"

"This happened before, I believe it's the gas tank canister pump. Right now it's ongoing, but last time changing that did the trick"

"Service engine light kept going on but they could not find the problem. Someone suggested using Lucas additive and it worked. Engine light stays off"

"Mainly noise i.e. banging and squeewking"

"Power steering unit was not leaking, it was on the rack & pinion. See previous answer"

"Dealer said power steering fluid was leaking, but have not had any problem with power steering. My own mechanic said to ignore"

"Power steering pump weakened and was replaced"

"After replacing the power steering rack, the leaks are gone. But, the new pump is noisy and there are new rattles to torture me,"

"Slow leak. Having pump replaced."

"Failure of the power steering pump requiring replacement costing $1100"

"The steering pump needed to be replaced. Noise when turning the wheel"

"Shocks & struts were both worn and needed replacement. Affected tire wear on a new set of tires. Got 30,000 miles on a set of 60,000 mile tire warranty"

"Rear shocks started leaking"

"Rear struts needed replacing"

"The car has over 130000 miles and needs new shocks. I consider this normal and not a quality issue"

"The car had 125000 on it and the struts were shot. The replacement made it better, but a new car would have been best"

"Needed replacement with drop links"

"The power steering fluid was leaking from the rack & pinion. The seals wore out in the rack & pinion unit. Rack and pinion was replaced. The power steering unit itself was not leaking; old rack&pinion unit still functioned-just little harder to turn"

"In the past this has been indicative of the need for replacement of axel(s). This has been the only major expense I have incurred with this vehicle, having replaced the front axels twice in the last ten years"

"Needed replacement when ball joint repaired"

"Tie rods were noisy, They were replaced when rotors, pads and one failed caliper were replaced"

"Growling noise, bearing was replaced"

"One front wheel bearing was noisy, near end of life, requiring replacement"

"replaced 5 years ago. Need to replace again"

"started car; extreme smell of gas, gas flowing from underneath car. Stopped car, got tow. Shop found fuel line badly rusted with hole"

"Had to replace the gas tank. It was a horrible job. The entire rear end of the car has to be taken apart. I wish I had just replaced the car"

"Serious oil leak from engine. I will replace this vehicle shortly"

"Lower engine seal needs replaced"

"do not remember details. Involved the oil pump"

"Started leaking oil and can't get it repaired easily"

"Rear Main Seal"

"Had an oil pan leak that was expensive to fix as it basically required the same amount of work/cost as changing a timing belt which had just been done 3 years prior"

"Began slowly dripping oil in garage. Shop replaced oil pump, drive shaft seal, and while down, replaced timing chain and water pump. A vibration inside the heater core box comes and goes. Will be expensive to fix as box is behind front dash. So i just go with it."

"A slow oil leak that didn't trigger the oil light caused the engine to overheat and blow, leading to the need for a new rebuilt engine."

"Finding oil in the driveway"

"Small oil leak in rear main seal"

"old car burns oil"

"I had the timing belt replaced which included the main crank seal, it was leaking after the dealer replaced the seal it is still leaking"

"Started 2 years ago with smelling gasoline, then a wet spot and now gas gushes out if I put in more than 5 gallons. It has a cracked gas tank that has progressively gotten worse, to the point where I can only put in 5 gallons max. The bad part is the way the car is built, everything on the back end must be removed to get to the gas tank. I mean EVERYTHING. If this was a long distance commuter car, it would need to get fixed but for around town, for an old car, it's a very expensive repair. It's like putting in a new transmission into an old car, at some point it's not worth it."

"bracket to engine broke multiple times and had to replace alternator"

"Original equipment alternator failed. I bpought one on line and installed it."

"The alternator failed and the vehicle died after the battery ran down. It had to be towed to a repair shop. This was with over 215,000 miles on the original part."

"The original alternator went out last year. Replacement installed by an independent shop lasted about a year."

"I have had to replace the alternator three times since owing the vehicle. I have also had do replace poorly designed mounting brackets multiple times."

"Battery and other lights came on. Diagnosed as a bad alternator. Was replaced and problem went away."

"normal wear use"

"Something draining battery, unable to find source."

"regular time for replacement"

"There is a coil for each cylinder. After a car wash I had to replace one. After the next heavy rain I had to replace two more"

"Check engine light came on and required new distributor part which was expensive ~$500"

"One is while the car will not start (1 once year). But, give it 30 minutes then it will start"

"2 ignition coils went bad"

"had to replace"

"Stopped working"

"CD player began to show ERR code and then froze up - completely - no play - no ejection of any of the six discs - no function even after unhooking the car battery and then resetting the unit via ID code. Radio function is all OK. Thie problem b"

"The factory original 6-disk CD player jammed, with disks in it that were not mine. 2001 vehicle, failure in the fall of 2014"

"no longer loads and unloads CDs and often gives an error"

"CD player damages the CD's so they won't play in the damaged areas"

"Locked up, will no longer eject or load CDs"

"C D stopped working. cannot get CDs in or out.. 6 cd changer."

"The CD player James with a CD inside and is now unusable"

"CD changer no longer operates. It only makes mechanical noises"

"CD player failed to eject disc. This erratically for quite a while before it decided to keep the disc. That was about 6 months ago. Radio works and sounds fine."

"The problem with the CD player involves the mechanical system that changes the CDs locking so that I cannot get the CDs out. The cost of repair is prohibitive and the esthetics of a replacement at beyond ugly. It would be wonderful if the existing CD buttons could control a replacement device."

"5-disc CD changer does not work and 2 discs are stuck inside; cannot eject, load, or play CDs."

""drive" indicator does not light up low fuel indicator does not light up light over odometer does not light up brake light comes on occasionally for no reason"

"The clock has lost its numbers. The 7 is a one and the 6 is a C. No solution. The dash lights are fading and we have it turned as high as they are able to go"

"Driver side rear door handle failed, would not open door."

"The outer handle on the rear door of the driver's side does not work. I can open the door from the inside, but pulling the outer handle no longer opens the rear door"

"Seat belt retracters don't retract the seat belt completely causing the door to slam shut on them. The only way to get them to work properly is to carefully guide them into the retracter. I sometimes forget to do this"

"ABS light went on. The sensor in the seatbelt needed to be replaced"

"Dent in roof from an unknown source caused the roof to be difficult to close and is now an incomplete seal on closure"

"The seal in the trunk is gone. Thus, when it rains, the water drains into the trunk when you lift it up"

"the driver side window 'sticks' in cold weather; I can't make it go up & down; it gets stuck in the down position and I can't close it in the winter; big problem!"

"both windows stop after a few seconds, They then will continue after several seconds wait as if it needs to rest"

"Driver's door window motor died last winter. VERY expensive to replace"

"Electronic window came off track"

"2001 accords with sunroofs are known to leak from the tube that comes down the driver side column and out the wheel well. We ended up with water on the drivers side floor from this."

"During heavy rains, water leaks through the seal on the passenger side of the sunroof. When heavy rain is expected and the car is parked in my driveway, I cover the roof of the car with a plastic tarp. I have not attempted to have the seal replaced."

"Sun roof was leaking and draining onto the front floor."

"weather stripping in trunk area no longer seals correctly, allowing condensation and rain to cause moisture in the trunk."

"stabilizer bars had to be replaced"

"the car squeaks and rattles a bit, but the mechanic can't find anything wrong with it, or why it makes these noises."

"All of a sudden, the entire chassis, including ball joints seem to be wearing down or breaking."

"Accords are notorious for wind and road noise. Our 2001 is no exception. Can not have a conversation at highway speeds. Will probably not look at Hondas when making a new purchase"

"Front windows don't seal properly when closed so there is wind noise from both. Left seal was actually replaced, but still has same problem"

"Head gasket failed after engine overheated"

"replaced timing belt, water pump, and oil seal all together as it saved on labor rather than doing them separately"

"belt broke, need valve job as a result, car has too many miles to pay for that expense"

"it was time to have the timing belt replaced"