Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“total headliner has become unglued and is hanging by dome light and side trim”

“Chrome overlay on door handles has bubbled away from the handle and cracked causing cuts on hands”

“Trim on driver's seat keeps popping off. Dealer replaced once under warranty with no improvement Duct tape solved the problem”

“Ceiling fabric has started to collapse like an old 1980's Buick”

“Paint on the score has always been an issue. My car looks like a skunk”

“Paint had faded completely on hood and roof of car. Vehicle is red and now there are white spots on hood and roof”

“Bird poop fell on door handle. When I rinsed it off with a hose approximately 10 minutes after seeing it (and approximately 30 minutes after it occurred), the paint washed off right down to the black primer”

“For several years, the clearcoat finish has been chalking and peeling away, leaving a dull finish in some areas and not in others”

“Paint fading in several areas; hood, trunk, top of vehicle”

“The paint started fading after about 6 years. Had to have it repainted”

“Large amounts of the paint have chipped and lost the top glossy coat with more areas gradually becoming bad too”

“Trim decals are peeling”

“Large patches of clear coat finish have chalked and peeled off”

“Our car began to fade and the clear coat peeled about 6 years ago.I looked like it had leprosy. Honda would do nothing to help so we had it repainted for about $3000 dollars. We will no longer buy a Honda”

“Roof top paint (just above the windshield) has cracked and peeled”

“The car body has too many scratches; it seems to get worse with every car wash”

“Black color faded completely in several areas of hood, roof and trunk”

“I have seen several Honda Accords with the same body type with faded paint on body. I think Honda has done a poor job with paint and this should be a recall item”

“Clear coat pealed. Looked so bad that I spent the $ to have the whole car repainted”

“Chrome peeled off inside door handles. Replaced with aftermarket parts”

“Exterior plastic trim faded even after having car painted....roof faded”

“clear coat is coming off all over”

“a large amount of paint has cracked & chipped off the hood. This was professionally repainted a few years back after a minor accident. lots of rust underneath & on lower parts of the doors”

“The clear-coating of the exterior paint is fading in several places on the car and has been doing so for the past several years”

“Paint on the roof cracked, rusted a little. I think the truck cover and engine cover also rusted. I painted the car”

“Serious oxidation issue”

“paint fading on roof”

“The black trim around the windows is slowly peeling off and it looks terrible”

“Fading”

“Fading...some areas of our dark green turning white. Honda Corporate refuses to assist in paint repair, stating the age, although they have been told numerous times it has been occurring for 5 years. Our Honda dealer informed me that Corporate has”

“On the top of the trunk, the paint is peeling and cracking”

“A defect in Honda paint has caused peeling on all horizontal surfaces of car. Honda will not repair. Cannot be painted over, requires sanding to bare metal. Very expensive to fix Honda's mistake. I'm obviously very angry about this”

“the paint on the hood has started to peel away. this is particular to only this part of the car”

“Paint flake and faded -”

“yhe clear coat is peeling on the hood, roof, trunk”

“Stone chips rusted”

“5 body panels have clear coat and paint peeling. Body rust by rear tires wells”

“There is noticeable rust in the right rear tire well possibly from the inside out. There are a few minor rust spots on the car”

“The hood rusted out under the front edge requiring the hood to be replaced”

“beginning to rust at the very front of the hood”

“Lot more prone to rusting in the under-body than my 2001 Camry. Brake components, even when replaced corrode faster than expected”

“Rusted stone chips on the hood”

“rust on roof caused the windshield to crack”

“hit spots rusted fast”

“rust under paint on the leading edge of the hood”

“Rust around wheel wells”

“Loose right front ball joint - was not critical, but I had it taken care of”

“Ball joints were worn and needed to be replaced which is not unexpected in a 161000 mile vehicle”

“front upper control arms and ball joints very loose. Replaced control arms”

“Ball joint failed and caused the front of the car to collapse. As a result the CV joint was also damaged”

“suspension has been failing one piece at a time, unacceptable for only 71000 miles”

“Spent $500 to replace front lower ball joint and install rear sway bar repair kits & bushing for rear suspension”

“Ball joints and tie rods and excessive noise. Rough roads and high mileage”

“In the cold wisconsin winter of 2017 the Accord's power steering fluid leaked”

“I have had to change it two times”

“Replaced the power steering pump for a third time due to fluid leaks. Also, replaced p s pressure hose”

“Did power steering pump o-ring recall and have had leakage since then”

“WHINING NOISE”

“The Power steering reservoir worked up and off its' mounting post and then fell into the engine belt, chaffing a hole through the tank and leaking. Mounting system seems poorly designed. I now have a hose clamp on it holding it in place”

“Screeches”

“I am on my 4th power steering pump”

“Pump did not fail, but it started to make a terrible noise. Replaced with aftermarket pump, which also made a terrible noise. Replaced that with OE pump”

“An O-ring was replaced”

“Power Steering Pump failed and required replacement”

“had to replace power steering”

“Power steering pump and related equipment make whirring noise”

“LEAKING PIPE”

“1hose had a recall that was replaced; power steering return line clamp came loose”

“Rigid hose of the power steering pump rusted/busted=no more power steering”

“the power steering hose leaked power steering fluid which went all over under the hood causing smoke to enter the car”

“Had to replace all shocks”

“One Front strut leaked and replaced both front struts at 130000 miles”

“both front struts leaking->replaced $316, both front lower control arm bushings cracked and leaking ->replaced $263”

“front wheel shocks leaked and had them replaced at 120,000 miles”

“Elected to do this on my own as I felt need for better suspension. Shocks were worn out”

“Replaced all shocks and struts - first time these were replaced since I owned the car bought in 2006”

“Replaced front and Rear Struts, car aligned”

“Unusual noise identified as probable failure of shocks and or struts but could not identify specific problem without total diassembly”

“Clunking noise from both front and rear suspension areas”

“The steering rack developed a leak and had to be replaced. This was expensive”

“Original equipment failed and was replaced”

“sway bar linkages rusted through and broke. had to be replaced”

“dealer said they needed to be replaced”

“the honda dealership charged about 300 dollars to replace inner left tie rod with a cheaper cost after market tie rod ( my decision). I feel this was about 100 dollars more than it should have cost. I would have done it myself but no free loaner tool”

“Broken rear tie rod caused clunking noises. Was repaired by dealer”

“All four wheels were severely out of balance and caused my 2 year old tires to prematurely wear. Backtracked the issue such that I believe the wheel balance I had done when I bought the new tires was improperly done at the tire shop”

“Requires special tool to replace only at Honda dealer. Shortens actual time from 3+ hours labor to 30 min. But Honda still charges for 3+ hr labor. (negotiated a $100 discount)”

“Ends and connections were worn”

“Both rear torsion bars had to be replaced”

“braking causes vibration”

“Yes, this car has been in several accidents through its history, but in the past 12-18 months, I have had the tires replaced, two balances & two alignment services & no one (Honda or independent) can tell me what the problem is”

“Finally just wore out so had it rebuilt”

“A spring that assists in the movement of the gear shifter broke. The only way to fix this was to go into the transmission. While there, the mechanic replaced several clutches”

“in need”

“Transmission slipping, delays or not shifting into next gear, required a full rebuild of transmission”

“Transmission just stopped working. It would no shift. It did not move at all”

“Transmission was slipping. It was rebuilt”

“It took several days. The transmission had not been shifting smoothly”

“Honda is fully aware that they had issues with the 2003 Honda transmission it went out and had to replace just out of warranty”

“Shifting”

“It cost more than $2000 - very disappointing for a Honda even though it was 12 yrs. old. I will not automatically buy a Honda again as I've had multiple big issues over the years”

“Quit unexpectedly, stranding me in the country. Third gear clutch disintegrated, clogging filter. Rebuilt with added transmission cooler, $2300”

“It was from a transmission shop recommended by the Honda dealer. Had to go back for adjustments as it was not set in right”

“total failure of the unit, common with this year Honda despite having changed the fluid every 30,000 miles, new installed unit is much better then the original, better shifts, etc”

“this is the second transmission placed in ;this car. Never expected to have this happen with a Honda Difficult to explain the problem with the transmission. The first time it wouldn't shift out of 2nd gear. The second time it was skipping”

“Inaccessible filter was clogged requiring a full rebuild of transmission”

“The Transmission problem was at 80,000 miles, not the last 12 months”

“At 60000 miles we had total transmission failure. Honda dealership and corporate would not admit any responsibility and treated us like dirt. We had an independent rebuild the transmission at a huge cost to us”

“Slipping”

“Transmission needed to be replaced. Very expensive”

“had to have trans rebuilt at 165k miles $3000”

“Transmission started slipping at 90K miles - had to have it replaced with a rebuilt one. Used a private repair shop not the dealer as I trust private repair shops more.Was really unhappy about all this as it's a Honda - but I've since learned this i”

“Car has issues shifting into next gear. Had transmission rebuilt and now problem free”

“Transmission replacement due to bad torque converter”

“Transmission complete rebuild”

“We had problems with the transmission since we bought it used form the dealer who kept denying the problem. It should have been a recall as the car would just stop moving forward in the freeway. Acura Leather seats are perforated which is tearing”

“Payed $4500 to replace transmission”

“transmission would not shift into drive”

“I found through online investigation that the transmission in the Honda 2003 was a known problem this was after I was told by my Honda dealer that it would need replacing. I had them install a brand new Honda transmission not a re-build”

“Recalled and thought to have been repaired but started having problems a couple years later and had to pay half of the price to repair”

“Original transmission was replaced at about 88000 miles and failed again at 90500. Transmission was replaced a second time”

“Transmission seized, towed to repair shop and rebuilt transmission installed”

“It was unclear exactly what was wrong with the transmission, but car would lose power”

“Lost second gear. Engine would rev when trying to shift. Complete rebuild cost over $3000”

“The button that engages the cruise control does not stick”

“Needed a new switch ($200)”

“Cruise would not hold speed. Adjusted Clutch Cruise-control cancel switch”

“Electronic switches that affected the dashboard display. Specifically transmission light indicators. Thought there was a problem with the transmission when it was just the switch. This happened twice in one year”

“One headlight pointed slightly down”

“Loose wiring caused flicker. Both headlight assemblies replaced. (Two different issues.)”

“Clear plastic headlight covers so foggy light output is dimmed. Had cleaned 3 times”

“Can't see worth crap with the lowbeams”

“replaced low bewam bulb”

“Tail light went out, took two maintenance trips to resolve. And had difficulty getting it out because previous body work glued in place also turn signal relay replaced”

“One of the tail lights burnt out; I replaced the bulb myself”

“Driver's seat is stuck in the upright position. I can't recline it even a little bit”

“Half of dash lights are out so you cannot read gas gauge”

“Radio, climate control and shift indicator lights have stopped working years ago. Honda refused to include our car in their warranty extension for this issue”

“Lights on dash only in the area of radio/climate control and time went out. Not easily accessed or repairable. Was fairly known problem back ten years or so and covered by dealer (sometimes). Way past that at 12 years and 180K+ miles”

“Lost the dash screen illumination lights and the lights on the heating and cooling switches. The local Honda dealer does not want to repair these problems”

“Climate control back lights do not come on at night”

“dashboard illumination went out”

“car cieling light works intermitantly”

“driver remote door lock/unlock mechanism did not work”

“The drivers door would not lock when pushing the button”

“Starter failed and had to be replaced. This is the regular starter. Not sure what remote starter is”

“driver safety belt warning light come on sporadically”

“ABS light has been on for years, although the ABS system is clearly working”

“The air-bag indicator occasional comes on and stays on if I don't wait enough time after putting the ignition in the "on" position but before I start the car. As well, if I have a passenger in the car and they remove their seat-belt and get out of”

“Broke”

“The factory-installed alarm system occasional goes off for no reason. The local Honda dealer could not identify the root cause”

“I spent $800 in 2012 to replace the Fuse box assembly because Car alarm was constantly going off at various times of the day and night. Problem subsided for a few months but is now back worse than ever. I cannot lock my doors or alarm will randomly”

“Passenger power window will not open/close. Electrical components ( switch, motors etc. ) have been replaced three times by the dealer and fails after a few months. Given up on fixing it”

“Engine has a small knocking and sound and is burning some oil”

“Both engine mounts broke”

“Mount cracked. Had it replaced”

“They are hard for the home mechanic to replace and Honda wants more than $1000.00 to replace them”

“Replaced 2 torn mounts”

“A broken motor mount was found during a routine inspection by our mechanic. Replacement was a necessity. This was Apr 30, 2015”

“Oil pump seal leaks. Cost to fix is about $900. Less expensive when replacing timing belt”

“The car used about one quart of oil every 600-700 miles since we purchased it with 185000 miles in 12/2012. Recently a source of the oil leaks was discovered and repaired, resulting in oil usage being nearly cut in half”

“The engine oil keeps depleting. We think it is burning off. But it makes the car run sluggish”

“Engine oil pan gasket was leaking”

“They said it was in front of car & would be expensive”

“Oil leak from a seal. Dealer said it was fixed on two occasions, but it continued to leak. Third time it was fixed. Cost was several hundred dollars”

“Oil leaking on top, rear of engine. May be Valve Cover Gasket”

“V-TEC solenoid oil leak Valve cover gasket oil leak”

“Oil pan gasket leaking - replaced gasket”

“Oil Pan gasket was replaced at the last service. Should help. I was adding a quart every three months / 3000 miles”

“The car burns or uses oil. It is not actually an "oil leak"”

“Leakage in seals requiring a very expensive overhaul to repair”

“The car "eats oil". Takes approximately 1 quart of oil every 3-4 weeks”

“The rear main oil seal is leaking; and, it's expensive to fix”

“seals are leaking and need replacing”

“Leaks were so bad , I needed to have the engine rebuilt”

“Crankshaft pulley (for serpentine belt) outer rim separated from hub, replaced”

“expense of getting it fixed”

“Catalytic converter #2 (engine has 3 catalytic converters) is failing”

“replaced catalytic converter”

“Catalytic converter needed to be replaced for second time”

“catalytic converter has quit”

“The valve inside the egr stuck and caused the car to run irractically with lots of stalling when trying to park. $225.00 to repair”

“Hose on fuel pump (which can be accessed from the trunk) cracked and leaked fuel onto the top of the gas tank”

“Low whining noise when engine was cold; engine light came on intermittently; dealer diagnosed fuel pump problem and replaced it. Noise has gone away”

“the catalytic converter and O2 sensor was replaced twice”

“Had to replace sensor on exhaust pipe”

“both oxygen sensors replaced due to check engine light”

“O2 sensor 2nd bank is either dead or has broken electrical connection”

“Engine light comes on for a while (weeks) and then goes off for weeks. Off and on over the last 6 months. Light not on when emissions tested and car passed”

“both sensors failed within 2 months of each other along with the catalytic perverter”

“oxygen sensor bank failure caused some rough engine performance on startup”

“expensive to diagnose and repair”

“I'm told there are five of them and I've replaced three. The $400 dealer replacement cost/each is way, way to high”

“My son while researching problem found there was a fix trouble with the 4 cyl model, I think it was gas cap leaking, water coming in, causing filter issue leading to sensor problem, but not noted with 6cyl. My son fixed problem, he works for Honda”

“Replaced sensors a few times but check engine light still comes on”

“caused check engine light to come on”

“Engine light went on”

“Seems to require constant expensive replacement. Should not be needed every other year to pass inspection”

“Spark plug coil failed. Replacement coil failed the next day”

“Sometimes the doors lock or unlock by themselves. The remote will unlock all doors, but not lock all of them. It's been very confusing with lots of electronic issues for a long time. The physical lock stem in rear, behind the passenger side) fell all the way down and we can't get it, and can't get a screw on piece to work on the post. Had lots of electronic issues since it was even in warranty, but no one at the dealer could ever find the problems. Very frustrating! I have read on line of others”

“Electric door lock stopped working. I replaced the actuator”

“Rear door actuator had to be replaced. Door locks are currently locking spontaneously when they are supposed to (and used to) remain unlocked, e.g. after unlocking the car and then opening a door”

“No longer responds to the button on the key to lock/unlock door. Problem is not in the key, but the sensory in the door”

“light on dash”

“Drivers side seat belt latch malfunction causes air bag light to illuminate if seat belt is latched or unlatched after starting engine”

“No longer retract fully without "help"”

“passenger safety belt was not retracting properly”

“Cannot adjust driver's seat back - it's in the very vertical position at all times. O.K. for my wife (she's short), but not for me”

“The driver seat does not recline. The control does not respond and this is an added cost to repair”

“total failure”

“The hood latch was frozen up which caused the cable opening lever to break. The hood latch was replaced”

“Motor doesn't function to shut windows. This is second time this has occurred”

“Windows do not work.and the doors need a key to open”

“Passenger window would not go down or up. Replaced the motor and regulator myself. Works fine now. Other windows still working”

“Control for driver's side window intermittently does not work, but will begin working again after several attempts”

“Power window failure on passenger side. Third time the power unit has burned out on the window”

“Window motors failed”

“Front driver's window doesn't go up or down. I have had the motor repaired 3 - yes, THREE - times and it has stopped working again. I am totally frustrated by it”

“electric motor for the passenger side window is shot and needs replacing”

“Battery failed - required replacement. Normal maintenance”

“Engine started missing at a traffic light.limped way to dealer who replaced 4 ignition coils (engine has 1 per sparkplug). Aslo rebooted the control module. Engine now runs fine”

“Some how, my ignition key broke down and replaced by a new one, repogrammed to the same specification”

“Replacement of all spark plugs”

“Car cranked well but would not start. Dealership was not sure what error code meant. Replaced spark plugs and cleaned injectors .Problem corrected. Car has had all required maintenance routinely done at dealership”

“Got 250 miles from home and would not start. Had towed to dealership and replaced for $600”

“The engine had problems starting. The starter was replaced”

“Starter failed. Replaced it with factory rebuilt unit myself”

“I had been having apparent battery drain and starting problems for over a year even after buying a new battery until the car would not start at all. Since replacing the starter these problems have disappeared”

“Starter died around 108,000 miles, replaced with remanufactured unit”

“Car would not start. Had to replace starter”

“Needed replacement”

“Gear stripped”

“Starter malfunctioned intermittantly, then failed completely. It would not start, then start minutes later, therefore was difficult to diagnose”

“Intermittent non-start issue which resulted in complete starter failure (cause was reported to be the windings)”

“Roof trim on driver's side is loose at the rear and flaps in a cross wind”

“From an inspection, the engine mounts for the Accord were cracked. They were worn out from normal wear and tear of the V6 engine. Shopping around for the best price replacement was done before replacing the engine mounts”

“Catalytic converter heat shields had to be replaced, about $1000”

“squealing coming from the front right side of the car. a hard to describe pa pa pa sound from back of car”

“It's 12-13 years old with the expected quantity of squeaks and rattles. It's bothersome when I start listening to them”

“squeaks in both front doors”

“Squeaks in the roof due to the sun roof”

“When I accelerate from a stop, it rattles until I get it to speed. Had it fixed a month ago, still makes the same noise”

“sometimes makes a metal to metal like noise just for a couple of seconds and it's gone. Also, makes an airplane noise when I first start driving it then it goes away after a few minutes”

“Whenever the humidity is above 40% the power steering pump pulley squeals. The pump itself works fine, and no problems with power steering. This has been an ongoing issue for several years, and according to my own research is a common problem”

“Wind noise excessive from day car was purchased”

“Wind noise from a passenger side window or door; unsure front or back”

“I only started experiencing problems in the past year. However, the car is parked in a garage when I'm home”

“Engine light code indicates problem. Mechanic recommends replacement”

“failure...needed replacement”

“MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON . BROUGHT IT TO MACHINIC AND HE PUT THE METER ON . AND IT READ CODE FOR CATALYTIC CONVERTER”

“catalyst efficiency code”

“Needed new catalytic converter because check engine light came on. Replaced converter but light came back on a couple months later”

“complete exhaust system has been replaced due to numerous leaks”

“Both mufflers rusted out on the top of the mufflers causing insufficient exhaust flow thru the entire mufflers sufficient to evaporate all of the moisture that is initially generated from running the engine. This, in turn, caused the mufflers to furt”

“the replacement for the exhaust manifold was expensive.The car is 12 years old and in very good repair and worth fixing”

“My manual transmission is shifting rough and needs work. I haven't done anything yet”

“There's an infrequent, sporadic, loss of engagement between the engine and transmission. Stepping in the accelerator raises the engine speed, but power doesn't reach the wheels”

“Slips going from 2nd to 3rd”

“It would just skip or hiccup while moving to the next gear”

“Car will alllow you to remove the key in any gear. The car will roll if the handbreak is not used”

“Slipping transmission gave me a heads up that something was wrong. Thank goodness I was on a residential street, drove it home and called a tow truck to take it to the shop. The car had less than 100K miles on it. Surprise - surprise!!”

“Honda service manual says you do not have to change the transmission oil until 100,000 miles. But when you change the oil then the seals leak because of the fresh transmission fluid. They should recommend changing way sooner”

“cylinders are apparently scored and the engine is burning a quart of oil every 3-500 miles; consistent with other 03's with excessive oil consumption”

“Very expensive quote from the Honda Dealership”

“Timing chain noise and codes. Found cause to be failed oil pump drive chain tensioner. Replaced both timing chains and all tensioners guides and sprockets”

“Burned / leaked oil”

“required maintenance on vehicle after 12 years of use”

“One of the cylinders (of the 6) was not working and caused the engine light to come on. It had to be replaced. An expense unexpected, but the car is 15 years old so it was probably overdue for some things”

“Replaced the timing belt which was well overdue to be changed based on the number of years on car”

“A pack rat crawled into engine from underneath the car and chewed through the electric wiring to the starter. Cost $400 to repair. It happened twice. Another problem happened a year later. The starter would not work consistently so after several uns”