Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Pins fall out of side of bumper panels and panels stick out”

“the button to press on the shifter fell off this year. the knob that goes up and down for when the driver door is locked/unlocked fell off”

“The gasket around the rear driver side door had come loose and had to be re-glued in place”

“Top material deteriorated”

“Fabric of the headliner is coming lose from the headliner. The sagging fabric is causing some visibility problems”

“Paint oxidized on hood and top so severely the entire car had to be repainted”

“The paint faded on different parts of the exterior -- most pronounced on the trunk and the top of the car. It was fixed by having the car completed repainted”

“fading, chalking. all of this began after i had it professionally detailed. i think their buffers started the process. the first detailer was honda! paint issues started 2 years ago and it's progressing”

“Our paint seemed to "wear off" along leading edge of roof. Majority of exposure to sun in deep Southern US. This appears typical of Accords that are around 9 or 10 years”

“The paint on the vehicle is almost like new EXCEPT on the trunk and roof - the clearcoat began flaking off about a year ago and is now over 50% of those areas. When I mentioned this was a defect - the service manager just chuckled - stating it was no”

“Clear coat is peeling”

“Paint is pitted and somewhat bubbled and dull”

“Peeling paint on multiple areas of the car”

“Areas around the front grill and bumper's paint have faded”

“Top coat pealing”

“general weathered look. appears to be an older car without the shine”

“Paint fading in a quickly spreading pattern from trunk lid and top of car”

“clear coat vanishing on rear trunk panel”

“Paint faded and peeled off top hood and trunk lid. We sent in pictures and a letter detailing the problem. Response from Honda was that it was the "environment" in Texas. A friends 2004 Accord had the identical problem - in Tennessee. Cars looked”

“rust starting to appear on edges of the doors”

“Paint on back bumper is fading very badly because of Arizona sun”

“Spots where paint has cracked or peeled away leaving rust spots”

“The clear coat is peeling all over the body”

“The Car was 4 years old when I purchased it and the clear coat started peeling within the first year that I owned it”

“the clear coat is stripping off and peeling, looks terrible,”

“fading and peeling”

“90% of the clear coat has fallen off the car. Car was never wrecked or repainted. factory paint job was crap”

“Peeling paint on front bumper...also fading paint of the roof. The bumper paint I was told by a body shop is VERY common for this era of Accords”

“Paint on hood is cracking”

“Paint is begun to show signs for crazing/cracking on the right side front fender due to sunlight, altitude, ?????”

“Color faded and cracked. Had it repainted, twice”

“Paint fading on roof top on passenger side”

“The paint clear coat is coming off on the roof and upper door”

“paint fading on the hood”

“parts of the car are losing the clearcoat which then begins to crack and rust”

“Clear coat on car peeling off”

“Paint on roof started peeling clear coat. Local dealer, regional representative and factory rep refused any repair or assistance in repairing the paint”

“The clear coat and paint have started fading and peeling badly”

“Paint is blistered on front edge of hood, probably from highway deicing process. Repair will have to be made in a body shop and I will probably be without my vehicle for one week even though it is a very small area”

“Wheel well, right rear, paint bubbling and through-surface rust”

“Same as above - cracking causes spots that rust”

“I believe this is due to salty road conditions in New England and infrequent trips to the car wash”

“passenger rear door, bottom complete rust, like cottagecheese”

“The rust started after only seven or eight years - on the trunk, the rear panels and then the rear doors and roof. i thought that was much to early, especially given how well i took care with washing and waxing”

“rusting in rockers in front of read wheels”

“Potting paint on hood”

“There is rust on the rear wheel openings?. Worse on passenger side”

“Paint flaking off exposing sheet metal on the roof and hood, resulting in rust”

“Rust on rear quarterpanels above wheel wells”

“Pinch weld at top of windhield (Leaked inside cabin); rust at right rear wheel well”

“The clock and radio are 1 unit. There is a short somewhere that turns the radio on sometimes by itself. I always make sure the radio is off when exiting. Also, the sound only works intermittently and hasn't worked for 3 months. The dealership has never been able to correct this problem although they have had many opportunities. This is the only problem I've ever had with car”

“Cruise control button broke on the steering wheel”

“it is actually an electrical issue. seems power is lost when running lights and other electric items together, example-headlights dim when opening/closing electric windows”

“Head light lenses were so clouded, I had to replace the headlight assembly”

“burned out headlight replaced”

“My driver's side headlight goes out about every 6 months or so and has to be replaced. Getting to the light fixture is tricky and sometimes requires the mechanic to remove the battery”

“the glass cover for our right fog-light breaks too easily”

“SEEM TO BE REPLACING STOP LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHT BULBS A LOT”

“Under hood fuse box failed, had to be replaced”

“Heated seats has never worked since got car. fuses were checked and OK”

“one of the dual front cabin lights stopped working evn though a replacement bulb has been put in”

“the driver interior light no longer works. i was told by my mechanic that the illumination control unit needs to be replaced”

“Interior lights stopped functioning. For safety reasons, I had them repaired. My local service garage didn't know how to access the lights, so I had to go to Honda - not a wonderful experience”

“Dome light burned out early, and dashboard light brightness adjustment knob is super sensitive and has turns to dim by accident when I hit a bump in the road”

“interior light switch failed”

“First AC went completely out, had to change out cars computer for $2000. 2 years later, I am having problems like interior lights not coming on, integrated garage door opener not working”

“the cabin lights have stopped working in the front”

“Lights intermittently dim. When I turn the brightness knob, they brighten”

“ceiling light will not work. not a fuse problem. cant detect where source of malfunction is..via inspection”

“Interior lighting system malfunctions and is difficult to reset”

“Interior Driver-Passenger convenience overhead lights operate intermittently, do to a known and documented failure of the two switches which control the overhead courtesy lights. Parts to repair are only $2.00 each from National suppliers... Honda wants $300+ to replace the entire lighting fixture ---totally unnecessary for about 20-20mins work with a single screwdriver !!!!”

“Dashboard, center console”

“The interior light that goes on when I open the doors in the middle on the ceiling keeps burning out. I had it replaced but it stopped working within 3 days”

“The lights that come on when I open the door do not work. Mechanic says he has to take the whole thing about which will cost hundreds of dollars”

“Wouldn't work - L front door solenoid broken”

“When I click the key fob, the driver's door will not lock or unlock. I think the spring is to weak”

“door lock on passenger side does not lock or unlock. have to manually pull up on lock stem”

“power door locks stopped working, I need to unlock manually”

“Actuator failed”

“Powerlock motor in door died”

“both keys broke when trying to replace the battery. Found out from Honda dealer when tried to purchase little screw - they lock-tight the screw so only they can change battery - new key has to be purchased, then programmed for $300.00”

“The keyless entry and other electrical accessories either work erratically, stop working, or work even when no key is in the car, resulting in repeated battery failures”

“passenger side...both door locks don't work unless manually depressed/pulled. Won't work with electrical button in car or remote”

“Automatic Locks needed to be replaced in 2 doors”

“a couple of door locks do not operate electronically”

“Air bag warning light off and on intermittently, Dealer advised that there was no problem”

“Sometimes, but not all the time, the airbag light on the dashboard stays on. I have not had it checked out, but my mechanic says there may be a faulty sensor under the driver's seat”

“Wiper motor had to be replaced”

“Wiper transmission broke”

“Horn has begun to only work intermittently”

“Only problem with otherwise great car was the A/C. A/C blew warm air; problem corrected by replacement of condenser and related parts”

“Compressor would not generate sufficient pressure. Both the compressor and condenser were replaced”

“Compressor was worn out. Was replaced. Costly but amortized over ten years, no problem”

“Ac compressor failed and because it is a hybrid compressor, caused the hybrid system control unit to fail also. Debris from the compressor blocked the evaporator / condenser. No local shops would work on a hybrid so I had to use the main dealer!”

“was dianosed with that prolem from dealer, went to another a/c shop they changed part still didnt work, then they changed condensor, worked for two days only turned out fauloty connection to one of the parts had to be tied on, no more problem so dont know if i needed any or al of the changes”

“A/C died”

“a/c compressor failed and was replaced”

“Needs to be replaced”

“the compressor was replaced in august of 2016. it was the original compressor with about 125,000 miles on it”

“Recently, My A/C is not working as well as it was when new. In 2011 my car was in my garage for 6 months. because I had 7 surgeries in 15 months, but I was unable to drive my car 2nd to severe hip pain, and 4 total right hip surgeries in 6 months 2nd to multiple - usually 3 infections each surgery and also in 2 Nursing homes”

“clog in condenser caused ac compressor to fail”

“Thermostat went out. Took dealer a while to diagnose, until it went completely kaputt”

“Cold air will not blow unless temperature for the zone is turned to "Lo"”

“AC fails to comply with set temperature, only operates when set to 60 degrees or "LO"”

“you can split the climate control between driver and passenger. the driver side is stuck in the split configuration and blows warmer than the passenger side”

“Not able to maintain climate control. Must be operated manually”

“Driver side condenser fan motor died”

“Blower fan is installed in a difficult to service location”

“Technician reported that a road hazard damaged the condenser, dyer, O-rings causing leakage of refrigerant”

“Same comment”

“AC would not cool and compressor could not generate enough pressure. Both compressor and condenser were replaced”

“A/C keeps going out after 3 repairs, condenser replace, refrigerant recharged, still no A/C”

“The condenser had a hole in it and my a/c system shut down”

“All components destroyed. Had to be replaced”

“Was leaking coolant and wouldn't cool. Cost almost $900 to fix. Now A/C clutch squeals”

“no hot air blowing,cool air is ok”

“will not maintain proper temperature. Has to be adjusted manually up or down constantly”

“The a/c system was serviced 2 years ago. Refrigerant leak was due to road hazard”

“actually had to replace the thermostat and the coolant unit which air blows over to heat the car. Also, having issues with loosing refrigerant in a/c for third time”

“Lost A/C cooling in early 2014. Certified repair shop said that an A/C system bolt had come loose. Tightened bolt and renewed refrigerant. No problem since then. Cost about $100”

“Slow leak, car is 11 years old and this is the first issue with the A/C”

“Will not cool”

“I've brought the car in to check for refrigerant leaks a few times the last couple of years but they apparently can't locate the leak. I've given up and just fill it up every summer with a can of refrigerant from the local auto supply store”

“One of the O rings was leaking. The charge to repair this at Honda was very expensive. They provided a loaner car which was convenient”

“Appears to be a slow leak of refrigerant that was corrected by adding more”

“Dealer charged $150 for evacuating refrigerant to replace pressure relief valve when refrigerant leaked”

“we've had a refrigerant leak ever since we purchased the car new. Honda never found where the leak was coming from, even after placing dye in the system”

“Causing AC to be ineffective. Will need to fix”

“Did not charge”

“Alternator died without warning”

“Alternator failed and had to be replaced”

“Battery replaced and failed along with starter”

“I live in Arizona, batteries don't last long in the heat”

“Man have I been going through batteries on this car. I use to get three to five years out of batteries. I have averaged two to three years lately, on 84month battery?”

“Battery failed”

“Battery depleted twice - but covered under warranty”

“Hybrid battery failed and dealer replace it for half of the coast since problem was earlier diagnose under warranty”

“Hybrid battery reached end of life. Replaced battery - it was quite expensive”

“Hybrid battery quit operating after 74000 miles. Honda paid for the bulk of the replacement due to low mileage. My cost out the door was $200”

“The check engine light came on to indicate a problem in the hybrid charging system. It actually seems to be charging ok, but something in how the engine switches from electric to gas mode wasn't working properly”

“VETC module which controls timing when bad. Some of these problems were longer than 12 months”

“Frequent spark plug fouling due to excessive oil consumption”

“Needed replacement”

“- Starter failed and was replaced”

“Starter needed to be replaced 2 times”

“Not sure what failed-it just stopped turning over the engine”

“Hesitated and then would not turn over. 170000miles on starter so I expected it”

“Would turn key and nothing would happen, turn key again and car would then start. This was a random problem. Honda dealer replaced the starter harness but this happened again a few times, lately it hasn't happened”

“Increasingly slow start despite battery recharging and good voltage was diagnosed as bad starter, at 124,000. $534 replacement is steep”

“it just wouldn't start and had to be replaced”

“The starter failed and had to be replaced”

“Starter just died. Most of frustration was problems starting leading up to total death and no mechanic Including Honda dealer, had a clue”

“Starter failed at 104,000 miles and had to be replaced”

“Starter died after 12 years, had new one installed at very reasonable cost”

“Starter failed and need to be replaced”

“my brakes squeak when applied, usually first thing in the morning and in the afternoon, for the first 10minutes or so. I was told it is normal for the brakes to squeak when the brakes are cold”

“When i'm breaking from a slow or an idle speed it makes these really weird creeking noises like a rusty hinge on a door. The mechanic to this day still can't figure out what it is. The prohlem persists”

“Strange intermittant noise sounds like speedometer cable”

“ride is not quiet. a lot of road noise and engine noise”

“alternator makes noise”

“Car squeaks when turning left. Noise is heard inside the steering column”

“Engine ma loud high-pitched squeal until warm, its not coming from the belts”

“Car made a noise when driving about 55. Took it to dealer and it was some kind of modulator that was bad. It was fixed and no longer have the noise”

“glove box rattle”

“It is nothing more than an annoying little squeak when I run over a bump in the road”

“It was a noise sounding like metal dragging on concrete, but there was nothing dragging. The noise resolved by the time we went to the dealer, but they judged that the rear brakes needed replacing. The noise has not recurred”

“Rear driver's side randomly thinks/rattles. Going into the shop this week for examination”

“Engine in idol is extremely loud when it is first started in cold weather. Engine also makes a rattling noise during the first 30 km/h of acceleration”

“Speak in the rear suspension”

“rattles that can't seem to be found or fixed”

“Road noise and wind noise is annoying”

“Minor problem. But the weatherstripping around two of the windows has dried out. So when is creeping into the windows when the car goes over 50 miles an hour”

“axle boot ripped. replaced axle”

“It happened at 299,600 miles - stopped at an intersection, went to pull out (manual transmission), loud, grinding sound and the car would not move. Thankfully the repair was only $350”

“Snapped starting from a standing stop at a red light. Car became immobile. Car has been rock solid for 12 years”

“Driver side axle broke at transmission”

“Car developed a severe vibration which turned out to be both front axles needing to be replaced”

“Axle cracked completely in half. Not unexpected for 360,000km of wear and tear. $CDN300 repair”

“Developed a roar in the driveline around 1600 rpm in any gear at about 65000 mileage”

“have replaced wheel bearings but still have not found source of problem”

“The cv joints and axles were replaced as an assembly. However, with almost 90000 miles of mostly driving on NYC's terrible roads it seems like it was a normal failure”

“Hybrid battery is nearing failure and needs to be replaced”

“Hybrid battery replaced twice since purchase”

“IMA battery failure at about 100,000 miles”

“font end vbration due to bad cv joint”

“Horrible vibration during acceleration. Grease within drivers side CV joint had turned to liquid and internals of CV joint were bouncing around during acceleration. Transmission housing seal was intact and not leaking. Replaced CV, car runs great”

“CV Joint was ok. The solid steel axle inbetween CV joints sheared in half. Not the Boot covered joints. Not the retaining bolt, but the middle of the axle”

“bearing went bad and upon replacement they found the cv joint bad which caused the bearing failure”

“Leaked fluid from damaged cover. The entire axel, CV joint and cover were replaced”

“the check engine light kept going on. After lots of diagnostics it was determined that we needed a new fuel cap but that hasn't completely taken care of the problem”

“My check engine light came on due to a flap inside the gas tank filler hose that fell off into the gas tank and now my check engine light is on. Not going to be a cheap repair”

“Gradually failing, took 2 dealerships to figure it out”

“Just replaced sensor for accelerator. Noticed issue when accelerator would not respond well, and RPM's would drop”

“Check engine light always on....needed to replace O2 sensor”

“ERG light kept coming on. The O2 sensor was replaced. No more problem with that light”

“I have had three O2 sensors replaced on this Accord. Honda paid for the last one out of sympathy, and I go to the dealership for everything”

“Oxygen sensor failure caused check engine light”

“A sensor failed that limited the vehicle to travel at only 30 MPH. Cost to fix was $115”

“Engine light came on and engine idled bad”

“The O2 sensor has had to be replaced twice. The dealer said that they are vulnerable to road residue [esp salt]. not under warranty”

“just needed replacing”

“Light on”

“engine check light came on. used computer check, indicated was O2 sensor. had it changed, no more problem”

“Engine light came on and repair shop determined that the oxygen sensors needed replacing”

“Replaced oxygen sensors after check engine code to pass inspection. Check engine light has come back on in 2017. Likely needs new catalytic converter”

“Driver door lock needed replacement”

“Have had problems several times with the door locks and had a locksmith repair the mechanism. Also had issue with the ignition lock and had a locksmith repair”

“Passenger door lock actuator failed; only manual operation of the lock could lock/unlock it”

“Replaced rear driver side door lock actuator. Was a pain as one cable end was damaged”

“spent almost 400 dollars due to faulty locks, locked an would not unlock,,had to have it fixed twice. also clear coat is stripping off car- starting to look bad”

“Door locks failed, trapping me inside the car. Someone had to unlock them using the key and open the door for me from the outside”

“drivers side door lock failed & had to be replaced”

“Rearview mirror film is peeling off around the edges...looks like crap, and is dangerous since it obstructs a clear view”

“Tinting is peeling off the window, and it looks bad”

“Drivers side window sticks in the down position, and is difficult to raise”

“Some of the weather seals between the door and window are disintegrating and coming loose when I open and close the drivers window”

“passenger side electric window doesn't work. drivers side electric window is slow and makes noise and won't close without having to manually grab the window and pull it up when it is cold outside”

“Lost 2 window regulators in 3 years”

“Loud squeaky noise when closing drivers side window”

“Front driver side automated window stopped working. Had to have motor replaced”

“This was done as preventative maintenance during a major transmission repair”

“transmission causes vibration in vehicle at 35 to 40 mile per hour”

“Had to replace the transmission on our Honda with only 52000 miles on the can”

“slipping”

“unusual noise”

“Rebuilt”

“Transmission fluid began to look black, told it was burnt and upon inspection at transmission specialist was told the torque convertor and several other parts were not working/damaged and had to repair and replace much of the transmission”

“Man bearing failure at 30,000 miles with no support from dealer or Honda US, Was told it was a known problem, no rebuild possible told had to replace”

“Once I started having problem, had to replace in 4-6 weeks. Dealer was double the cost of independent”

“This may have been driver error from teaching a new driver how to drive a standard transmission, the reverse lockout ring had fused itself to the shaft, rendering reverse unobtainable”

“Transmission blew up while driving on the highway and had to be replaced”

“Hesitation on acceleration. Mechanic noticed leaks and determine it needed a transmission overhaul. Transmission was replaced”

“Total transmission rebuild. I've known of several people who have or had 2000-2005 Accords where the transmissions had to be rebuilt prematurely”

“Transmission wouldn't shift properly. Diagnosis indicated the transmission had to be rebuilt and it was”

“Was told the sound related to a sticky lifter. Also had issue with oxygen sensor”

“Nothing major but I was told that the increased vibration I was feeling through the accelerator pedal and steering wheel was likely caused by the mounts wearing out. So far I have chosen to live with the minor vibration”

“We had to replace front and side motor mounts and hood support struts”

“Motor mount replaced on two occasions. Each one a separate mount”

“behind timing cover”

“power steering was leaking - repaired by dealer”

“Over the course of a 12 year, drama free ownership the main engine oil seal has developed a very small leak. But that's to be expected for a car this age with high mileage”

“Oil leaked from valvetrain cover seals leaking”

“known problem with Honda. Odyssey as well. Honda charges over $500 to replace - paid a non honda mechanic $25 to put a clump on them - problem solved”

“heat shield came loose probably due to rust and dragged on pavement”

“loose”

“Exhaust pipes on the car begin to rust. Exhaust started to vent into the passenger compartment. It was easily fixed for about $100”

“Transmission is known to be bad for the 05' accords. Normal transmission life span is only 60K miles ours has lasted to 140K+ miles but is slipping. We flushed the trans fluid which helped but it will eventually go out”

“Intermittent fault with transmission position sensor. Needs to be fixed soon”

“Had to replace master and salve cylinder. $500 Transmission has a whine in some gears. Never had these problems in 1980 model Accord”