Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Alarm came on randomly when car is parked. Went to dealer and replaced the part”

“Have to jiggle the key in the lock numerous times in order to trigger the auto-unlock of other doors. If I dont' do this, the alarm goes off”

“THE CLPCK IS JUST A PROBLEM TO SET, ALQYYS HAS BEEN, IT COULD BE EASIER”

“The lights on clock panel keeps shorting. Some times it lights up for a while, then there are no lights to see the time. I did not bother to get it repaired since my car is almost ten years old”

“Cruise control will not activate, switch is apparently bad”

“Cruise suddenly just stopped working and had to have the steering wheel switch replaced”

“System works only if I hold the steering wheel switch in the on position. When I release it the system goes off”

“I've had to replace the front drivers side headlight 3 times. as of today it is out again”

“Relay failed in he main fuse block under the hood. This caused the running lights to be on high when the lights were on (intermittently). Couldn't be diagnosed until complete failure. Dealer wan't going to just replace parts by guessing. I appreciate”

“Right headlight intermittent. Will not come on every time it should. Found that if when I turn lights on the right headlamp does not come on and repeated use of the switch from off to on will not work Found that with ignition on and lamp on and I”

“lights dim to unsafe conditions when accesorys are used”

“Headlights have been replaced twice sincer purchase. I suspect that the GE replacement bulbs are inferior?”

“One headlight and one parking light burned out -- replaced”

“They blowout frequently”

“Our regular repairman had problems fixing the headlights”

“Standard (not DRL) stopped working. Diagnosed issue as electronic control module”

“Headlight Bulbs burn out frequently and plastic lenses have discolored over time”

“To replace a $6.00 light bulb, you have to take your car to the dealership and pay over $100.00 in labor. We had a friend replace the light bulb. Did research online. It required removing entire front end of car 20+ bolts/clips, it took 3+ hours to complete this task. It use to take a few minutes”

“Daylight running lights fail despite being replaced more than once. Must be a bad connection”

“I don't think I've ever had back-up lights that work”

“Brake lights, turn signal lights, head lights, interior lights. I have changed many times”

“From the beginning the horn did not always work. After the air bag recall was repaired in 2014, it seems to be working when needed. This along with the horn problem and the actuators problems have been mentioned in complaints on the internet”

“When you open the door on the car a light should go on when its dark out but that light does not operate correctly”

“The 2 lights above the front window stopped working.The bulbs were OK”

“Passenger courtesy light intermittently will not come on”

“Overhead lights burned out. None replaced because deemed too expensive”

“Light for one of the two heated seat stopped working years ago as well as one of the overhead interior lights. I thought these cars were built to last, but it does not appear so”

“A while ago the interior lights stopped going on when the doors are opened. The lights work fine when using the switch to turn them on. Unfortunately as the lights in the model are part of garage opener/other electronic system, they can't be repaired by themselves. The entire piece has to be replaced and the part alone was almost $400, plus labor. So I didn't have it repaired as it is a minor issue”

“The dome lights by the interior rear view mirror one stopped working when the door is opened. It works if you manually turn it on. seems like the=is is a common issue with Honda”

“Interior light does not turn on completely when door is opened”

“Work intermittently”

“Trunk latch not working with keyless remote or with key. Must use cabin interior release”

“Check engine sensor”

“The door lock-window switch was replaced. The windows would sometimes not open or would open randomly while driving”

“the panels over all 4 wheel wells are rusting”

“Paint oxidized and peeling around rear window and trunk gaps”

“cracking paint was redone by dealer”

“The clear coat on the driver's side of the car started peeling. The dealer wouldn't do anything about it. I had to have the car painted”

“rear left quarter panel had an area of fading paint possible due to a repair prior to us buying the car. It seemed like the clear coat was coming off”

“PAINT FADING FROM FLORIDA SUN”

“paint is flaking off around rear window and hood and trunk edges. Also a 2 by 3 inch area flaked off in one piece on C column”

“recently noticed checking in the paint on the roof and hood”

“Bumpers crack easily and paint falls off”

“Paint peeling on front and rear bumpers”

“Two areas on the roof exterior the black paint is turning white??”

“rear roof to trunk deck paint is fading badly on one side”

“Paint is fainted and chipped. It's very difficult to come clean. sucks. I hate this car. Love my Tahoe”

“Paint fading in areas near rear window”

“One body panel has lost almost all of its clear coat. Looks terrible. I see lots of hondas on the road with similar paint problems. Car is only 10 years old and it's entire life has been in the mild climate of Southern California. Hate to think of it spending a few harsh years somewhere else”

“patches of clear coat degradation along rear edge of roof line”

“Front hood peeling rusting paint. Bubbles from under paint and finish of all 4wheels deterioration of alloy, aluminum wheels”

“Paint peeling seemed mostly to do with age”

“Paint is coming off in areas. This is the second time it has happened. I have had a few areas repainted before due to the same thing”

“I've already explained”

“Rust on front of hood and a rear quarter panel. Local body shop indicated this is a common problem in Accords of this and similar model years”

“nose of the car had to be painted after body work”

“Rust on the trunk lid bottom of one door and inside two wheel wells”

“Small spots of rust appeared on the front hood and wheel wells-- possibly due to the extreme amount of salt and cinders needed this winter”

“There was a little rust on the edge of the hood which was repaired, and I had to replace the front bumper because I parked to close to a frozen snowbank, which cracked my bumper”

“hood leading edge was rusting so replaced it”

“Many small rust spots have appeared around the doors, trunk lid, hood, and gas cap. Basically anything that opens”

“Rust at leading edge of hood”

“Corrosion on the rims causing air leaks/loss of tire pressure”

“The CD player stopped ejecting/playing discs”

“In-dash cd/radio died; installed aftermarket, as it was some $750 (!) to repair/replace. I understand that the unit was lousy & troublesome, essentially the weak link in an otherwise fantastic car!”

“Radio/CD Player shorted out and had to be replaced”

“6 CD changer is very fragile. The gears are plastic and on two occasions I had to have it repaired at a cost of 150$ each time. Now I don't trust that it will work when I want it to”

“It quit working. It wouldn't play”

“The CD player hasn't worked for years; it was the first thing to fail on the car”

“CD player would not work. It was covered by my extended warranty”

“CD player does not work”

“the navigation system stopped working. the dealer removed it and sent it to its original manufacturer to be repaired. Cost $505.00”

“doesn't work anymoree, requires $1200 repair”

“After a maps update, it cannot find many places”

“Radio became intermittent. New replacement radio - $700+ Used Radio $500+ we went with the used. How often does a radio go bad these days?”

“Bad board resulting in dead battery”

“The radio/cd player works intermittently. Shuts off without warning. Will come back on spontaneously, in several seconds to 20 minutes. Backlight does not work”

“Radio component failure caused severe battery drainage and radio/CD player to not work. Radio played sometimes when it was not turned on (no key in ignition)”

“Radio failed”

“radio is part of cd/stereo. See cd comments”

“The display stopped working”

“Poor sound system, throughout. Radio won't get many stations and speakers are poor, especially the rear ones”

“Radio/CD Player shorted out and had to be replaced”

“code would not work”

“It quit working”

“Quit working. Replaced with after market unit”

“radio occasionally does not come on. will come on after 5-10 minutes”

“The radio does not always come on when it has been switched off. It is an intermittent problem and, so far, has come on after some time has passed. We have stopped switching it off and just turn down the volume instead”

“The main cruise control button would not stay engaged. The dealer wanted $230 for the parts, and I think labor. I use a piece of black gaffers tape to keep the button depressed. At about a cent a piece I can use an awful lot of tape”

“The clock stopped working”

“when it rains I find the trunk is wet”

“water was dripping inside the car during rain”

“Have had a Antifreeze smell outside and inside car from 2007 until present”

“Water leaking into trunk”

“Water leaks on the top part of the doors. I've gone to a bodyshop and had the doors adjusted to stop the leak”

“Air leaks noticeable around both doors at 35 mph.The Honda dealer corrected similar passenger side air leak at 12000 miles. Now both sides leak air”

“front door seals are disintegrating”

“Probably causing the water leak”

“Windows rattle tremendously. Honda is aware but has not been able to resolve”

“I have experienced rattles in the dashboard and glove box”

“Rattle in right side of dash”

“Driver's side seat: intermittently makes an annoying meow-like sound when shifting in seat - happens more often in warm weather”

“Squeak emanating from the passenger side interior”

“Intermittent rattles that I can't locate. Not all the time but very annoying when they do occur. Wish I'd waited longer to submit Honda's survey about satisfaction. They could do better in this area”

“Clutch pedal broke; currently, it squeaks”

“Glove box rattles”

“Catalytic converter shield rusted and rattled at <2000 RPM”

“An engine rattle, not fixed after two service visits to dealer”

“Switched to premium gasoline from regular to fix the issue”

“One of the clips that held the engine was broken and the engine rattled in its place”

“The exhaust plates in the engine compartment became loose. The issue was easily resolved with washers and tightening. Cost was only 20.00”

“window air noise is loud and somewhat annoying at times”

“Not sure exactly which window it comes from but is hard to hear others talk. Wind radio is on do not notice it so much”

“Seems to be leakage around windows, passenger side in front”

“Wind noise coming from the driver door when cruising at freeway speed”

“The seal around the drivers door is cracking”

“Thought battery was going but every test said it was charging. Mechanic said starter problem without my mentioning the problem; cost $750”

“Starter died in July of 2014”

“Starter went out all of a sudden; no issues prior that would suggest it was going out”

“Had to have starter replaced at 110,000 miles”

“Refused to start car for over an hour, Then suddenly worked and continued to work until I had it replaced. This is the second starter that I had to install”

“Starter went bad before I think it should have”

“the battery and cables were destroyed, along with the starter and all had to be replaced. the car wouldn't work and was stuck in the garage until towed to shop, then took several days to diagnose and fix. pia”

“I have yet to replace the starter since it is not my daily driver. But mechanic is telling me the problem is the starter/solenoid. It takes several turns with key before it will turn over two start”

“Need to replace the starter. Sometimes the starter would not work,”

“Starter was sporatic. Needed replacement”

“needed new one”

“Car occasionally would not start. Required replacement starter”

“Starter began to intermittently malfunction and needed to be replaced”

“Intermittent failures to start. Never stranded. Start ed after several attempts. Finally replaced whole unit. Requires about 1.5 hours labour by a skilled mechanic”

“Drive belts replaced, starter replaced, crank seal replaced. Starter had failed. Intermittent starting problems before failure”

“Starter failed”

“Starter went bad. Replaced at dealer - $800”

“The distributor failed, blew one of the spark plugs out of its socket, creating an engine failure”

“Honda payed 90% for a new short block. My old Short block was weeping/ losing coolant through the side of the block. about $800 out of pocket cost”

“Engine blew up at 94000. Had 2 mechanics look at it and was told the bottom of engine was blown and was more cost effective to replace engine. Both mechanics agreed this was an internal engine problem and was not due to lack of maintenance”

“Was told engine could not be fixed. They wanted to replace it with a used one with 158,000 MILES on it for $3,600. This from the Honda dealer where I purchased the car”

“Spark plug tip broke off and got in engine”

“Complete engine failure. Cylinders loose inside engine knocking cylinder wall and scratching it”

“Coolant leak through head gasket, which ended up being a bad short block. Honda picked up 50% of cost. Still $600 out of pocket”

“Head gasket cracked and had to be released”

“The timing belt and related components are very time consuming to replace and the labor is very expensive as well as all the components. Timing belts are outdated technology. Many vehicles no longer have them will not purchase another vehicle with”

“Belt changed as a result of the discovery of a leaking hydraulic idler pulley and secondarily according to mfg. recommended change out schedule”

“It cost over $1700.00 to have this belt changed”

“Had replaced as recommended”

“I was hit with approximately $2660 of repairs that needed to be performed by the Honda dealership service dept when I went in for a cigarette lighter charger repair. So far, I have had $430 of them performed. One to still be performed is $980 of ti”

“Check Engine light on. turned out chain is not synchronized”

“Timing chain failure resulting from engine burning oil. Low oil caused timing chain to stretch and fail. Costly repair of almost $2000”

“A mechanic noticed that the timing belt was almost broken. When I had it replaced, it was also necessary to replace another part (whose name I don't recall- a suspender?).of the same system”

“failed”

“There seems to be some problems with the proper amount of oxygen in the system. I'm not sure really what it is. I hope that it is just the 02 censors”

“Needed to be replaced at 100,000 miles”

“unit wore out and was replaced”

“Had to replace all exhaust between engine and catalytic converter”

“Nuts & bolts for clamp at converter rusted causing leak. Repair cost 60.00. During repair dealer shop damage O2 sensor. They replaced this free”

“rusty flanges”

“The heat shield on the cat converter rusted and then one piece of it fell off. It costed over $200 to repair and is faulty on all 2007 Honda Accords according to Hoffman Honda a dealer”

“Aluminum heat shield bolted to steel underbody with steel bolts. Car has been used in northeast Ohio where salt and road chemicals are used in winter. Textbook case of galvanic corrosion resulted in heat shield coming loose and dropping down”

“Car spent 5 years in Mass ( 1st owner ) severe rusting of shield and pipe connecting flanges. I replaced cat shield, two mounting corners were rusted off. Likely will have to replace everything from the ex manifold back when any of the rest of the sy”

“Heat shield became loose and was dragging on the pavement making a strange noise. Problem was diagnosed and repaired without replacement by a local shop”

“The heat shield rusted until it became loose. Inexpensive part but time consuming for a mechanic to replace”

“Heat shield rusted away at bolt holes. I had to pull it off because it was hanging down on the ground. Both front and back brake rotors were rusted and had to be replaced”

“rusty flanges”

“The engine light comes on & off at different times making it hard to diagnose, It usually comes on when the oil gets low - it doesn't specifically have an oil leak (nothing ever showing where we park) but burns up to a qt of oil in a month or less”

“throttle position sensor failure”

“Had it serviced twice for unusual noise from engine, was told it was piston flop and would disappear when warm. Engine blew up shortly after. Had 87,000 km on it. So much for Honda technicians and reliability”

“Engine knock was due to being low on oil which dashboard sensors didn't detect. At dealership talked to another customer who said the 4 cyclinder models use a lot of oil especially when doing a lot of interstate driving. Have to constantly add oil b”

“Started knocking lightly about 3 years ago. Dealer tried many things but told us it would require a tear-down to pin point. We will continues to live with it unless it gets more serious or throws a rod or something. It's pretty stable at this point”

“I had an axtended warantee that expired in Dec 2014. Dealer inspected car, found broken left motor mount and replaced it. In January, the front motor mount also failed. Dealer unresponsive”

“This is a known issue with this car. I had 2 engine mounts go at same time. $600 repair to have them replaced. Design issue for the Accord. Also have small oil leak with engine”

“I have had to replace ALL of the motor mounts at different times throughout the life of the vehicle”

“Right side mount failed”

“After oil change, drain plug was left loose”

“The oil pan was leaking onto the exhaust system, causing a smoky smell. The oil pan needed to be replaced”

“valve cover gasket”

“Rear main engine seal was leaking”

“The car is burning oil. This problem caused the timing chain to stretch over time and fail, nearly a $2,000 repair. Also, through reading online forums, burning oil is a common problem with this car model for this year”

“Exhaust recirculation solenoid failure”

“I had to replace the catalytic converter. Initially two after market converters were installed by the dealer without resolving the problem. It was finally resolved by installing a Honda supplied converter”

“Catalytic converter needed replacing”

“Had to replace catalytic convertor and oxygen sensors. Was out of warranty since car was > 8 years old. Car had <65,000 miles at the time of repair”

“HAD TO REPLACE CATALYC CONVERTOR”

“needed replacement at 50000 miles”

“Engine light went on and stayed on even after catalitic converter was replaced. A number of O2 sensors needed to be replaced before engine light went off”

“Warning lights kept coming even after sensor was replaced. Intermittent problem”

“Needed to replace O2 sensor”

“The engine warning light has come on 3 times in the last year. Have replaced 3 different sensors”

“2007 Accord stalled on freeway twice. and had mechanic replace 2 sensors in the past 12 months. No other problems”

“Replacement needed at cost of several hundred dollars”

“Routine wear and tear; clutch had never been replaced/adjusted”

“The clutch was slipping out of gear or having trouble shifting gears from one to the other”

“The release bearing was impacted by dust and the clutch and pressure plate didn't need to be replaced. What actually caused the problem was a broken clutch pedal bracket. The metal fatigued, cracked at the 90 degree bend where the bracket attaches to the firewall. This caused the pedal to assembly to tilt and eventually the clutch couldn't engage/disengage the clutch plate. After the release bearing, clutch and pressure plates where replaced, the engagement/disengagement problem persisted. I ret”

“The car died because the clutch failed, so while the engine was running, the car had no power. We had the car towed to our mechanic and he replaced the clutch”

“Car would not start. Had to tow to shop and get diagnosis. Needed clutch replacement”

“The torque converter would not stay engaged”

“Transmission failed at 102000, replaced with rebuilt”

“identified noise coming from engine and felt change in shifting from low to high gear. Dealer agreed that transmission was failing and arranged for a new one to be installed. Car had approx. 50000 miles at the time”

“With only 67,000 miles on the car, I am extremely upset that the transmission needs to be replaced. Would not buy a Honda again”

“It was costly to replace the transmission on the 2007 Honda. It really does not owe us anything. We love and believe in the Honda product”

“I was told today during a routine service check that my transmission is completely rusted out as well as the axel”

“It was slipping. We had it evaluated and decided to replace. It is an excellent car with 200000 miles”

“The transmission would slip most noticeably while backing up a hill and would shudder while under load in drive. Dealer replaced the torque converter under warranty but the shudder persists and the dealer will not help any more”

“Small leak of transmission fluid expensive to repair”

“Had a leak of transmission fluid had the lines replaced no more issue”

“Warning light came on”

“Transmission sensor frequently sends false signals that make the onboard system think the transmission is failing”

“Would not shift out of park sometimes”

“The silver has deteriorated from the rear view mirror. My daughter's 2001 Honda Accord EX rear view mirror is perfect with 305,000 miles”

“Axle corroded, causing it to break”