Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Rear brake caliper frozen requiring replacement”

“All pads and rotors were replaced in 2013. About 5k miles later one caliper seized up and had to replaced. Cost of the two repairs was about $1200”

“calipers froze and damaged the rotors'”

“they wore out way too soon - corroded”

“Calipers would not move”

“The drivers side rear caliper has failed twice since we bought this car”

“All calipers on this car have been replaced twice now. Characterized by noise and roughness and sudden brake wear”

“Had to replace caliper on driver side twice”

“Calipers on rear brakes stopped working resulting in excessive wear on front breaks and warping of the front rotors. Over $500 to repair front and rear brakes. Private garage did repairs and no further problems”

“one screwed up resulting in pulsing brakes and prepature wear”

“Both rear calipers needed to be replaced”

“Had to replace front calipers, due to squeaking noise, due to it getting rusted and jammed”

“Calibers were freed up, and lubed”

“after having need brakes installed at 96000 miles caliper became stuck closed shortly after”

“"frozen" calipers which let to warping of disks”

“The fluid level was low so they flushed it but had difficulties in getting it adjusted. In the end the dealer solved the problem”

“have experienced pulsation/vibration when braking from a relatively high speed,which according to records has happened periodically in the past”

“Need to replace braking system”

“Normal Brake wear”

“Replaced rear brake pads and resurfaced disc. First brake work at 87000 miles!”

“Warning by serve mechanics about worn brake pads”

“gets squeaky sounding even if the brakes are ok”

“Worn front brakes”

“Seems like we are constantly replacing brake pads”

“Replaced rear brake pads only”

“Loud grinding noise on rear brakes”

“The rear brakes had rusty rotors and components were very rusty. Midwest winter salt is a problem”

“I had no problems. Brake wear was discovered in routine maintenance by trusted mechanic and, considering age of car, it was not surprising”

“Brake pads low, squeaky. Normal wear and tear for the most part”

“Rear brake plate cracked and was replaced”

“Honda service department advised me to have brakes repaired”

“Ft brakes and rotors needed replacement”

“Disc pads were worn out and rotors needed resurfacing”

“Normal pad replacement and disc machining”

“Replace brake pads”

“During routine maintenance, the brake wear was brought to my attention”

“The brake pads wear out too quickly - less than 12,000 miles”

“I did not have to do any work on the brakes for this car until it was over 60,000 miles”

“failed inspection due to parking brake- had to be adjusted - nothing major”

“rear left brake pad worn due to piston siezing”

“I have 35000miles on my car and brake pads have had to be replaced twice”

“Break premature wear has been a problem ever since I bought the car with 20,000 miles on it. Replaced brakes at 35,000 and 3 times more with 72000 miles on it. Do not know why”

“Even though I always took it for timely service, the pads wore down and scored the rotors, which had to be replaced. Because of the low mileage, I feel that this was premature wear”

“brakes don't give decent milage and rotors warp”

“Seems like we are constantly replacing brake pads”

“rear brakes needed replacement long before front brakes - front brakes are only 60% worn now”

“It was hard to differentiate between simple brake wear and the caliper issues, which caused uneven and rapid wear. But rotors and pads have been the second biggest expense on this car”

“Bad caliper”

“replaced rear brakes at 60000 and 96000. Seems to be a common problem”

“Worn rotators”

“Had to have brakes replaced 4 times since I bought the car”

“Break pads don't seem to last more than 25,000-30,000 miles. Since they were done once before and the rotors turned, I needed new rotors this time as well as pads. $$$”

“The 2007 Honda Accord routinely requires brake and rotor replacement every 10,000 - 12,000 with normal driving. The dealer told us this was "normal"”

“Our dealer service said that the premature brake wear and rotors and calipers going out of round was a common problem on 2003-2007 Accords.They replaced all the front brake components, which was expensive, but it solved the problem and the grabbing”

“I had to change rotors and brake pads a few times and I am not hard on brakes at all - most of my driving is highway. The handbrake also seized up even though I make sure to use it regularly. I'm not happy with the brakes on my Honda”

“Back brake pads wear prematurely as they are too small”

“the front and rear brake pads needed replacing”

“Right rear brake failure. Caliper failed”

“Pretty normal wear and tear on brakes. New pads were put on the front”

“Excessive wear and tear on front. Might be because of bad winter and constant braking on pot hole filled roads”

“premature wear”

“Normal brake pad and rotor wear”

“The rotors and calipers in bad shape. Metal on metal”

“I purchased cheap after market rotors at a local repair shop, which haven't held up. Lesson learned”

“With the low mileage on the car I did not think the breaks and rotors needed to be changed. I've also had to replace the tires do the age not wear”

“Unusual wear pattern on the inboard side of both rotors. Only the middle half of the surface was making pad contact. The rest of the surface was corroded with no signs of friction. Replaced rotors and pads”

“Factory rotors warp quickly causing steering vibration. I replaced all 4 rotors and pads”

“had to br replaced because of excessive wear”

“Breaking driving down long steep grade experienced violent shuttering from right rear brake/rotor. Front brakes always emit grinding noise but when inspected no problems found”

“Had to replace back rotors after experiencing squealing while braking & while rolling”

“Original Brakes pulsate in high speed stop. Tebuilt by dealer at approx. 70000 miles. Pulsation soon returned”

“Rear rotors very rusty, had to replace”

“Rusted and locked in place. Loud sounds, concerned about safety. Received different responses from three auto repair shops. Still not sure which was correct”

“When braking at a speed of 55-60, my car vibrated”

“We had our rotors resurfaced and new brake pads installed and within 3 months had to pay to have the rotors, pads and struts totally replaced because they were all worn down”

“brakes were pulling and grinding. Stopping was not as accurate. Brake repair 1 year after purchase. Told system was inspected and reliable”

“Vibration when braking”

“By the time you notice pads need replacing, the rotors are too worn to be resurfaced”

“Rotors and pads replaced”

“Both front rotors wore down and went out of round. The brakes pulsated and vibrated on harder decelerations. The brake pedal was very touchy and grabbed when lightly applied”

“bad front end squeak & vibration with cheap rotors turn & install”

“if car sits for over one week without use rotors rust and brakes become unreliable. Not good for snowbirds. We now give it to a relative to use while we are away otherwise new rotors and pads on all four wheels”

“Apparently Accords have an issue with rotor wear. I've had mine turned and just recently replaced due to excessive wear. The mechanic told me he was on his THIRD set of rotors on a much newer model Accord”

“The rotors had to be replaced, but this is normal wear and tear. I have over 170000 miles on the car. I expected that this could happen”

“Before this Honda I had 2 Toyota Camrys that went over 300000km with only one change of rotors. This car is on the 4th set after 140000km”

“By the time, the brakes started squeaking. My brakes were in very bad shape. Usually, the cars brakes will start to squeak when the brakes begin to wear down. And that did not happen with my car. When I took my Honda to the dealership they were very”

“Sudden onset constant screeching/squeaking - mechanic indicated need for new rear rotors”

“Part failure in rear suspension causing squeaks on road bumps. Cost $100 to repair parts and labor”

“it was more of a grinding when the brakes were applied”

“Brakes were replaced under extended warrantee”

“It was very loud and squeaky. The shop replaced the driver's side ball joint, and a year later did it all again”

“worn out after 65000m, is kind of sooj”

“Loss of lubrication to joints. Boots failed. Was very surprised for a Honda and it should not have happened”

“Wearing out and need to be replaced”

“Needed to replace bushings after 25,000 mi. Required realignment, so the job was expensive”

“need to replace the bushing on the lower control arm, worn out on one - passanger side. I have decided to replace the entire arm, due to high labor cost”

“Front lower control arm front bushing cracked. Common problem from what I can find”

“Bushings wore out and caused uneven tire wear”

“MINOR LEAK IN POWR STEERING PUMP”

“Seemed to make noise after starting when cold and fluid leakage was noticed. Replaced power steering reservoir, related parts and fluid”

“A power steering hose developed a crack”

“Leaks and noise when the weather was cold”

“Power steering pump noise that was fixed with power steering fluid flush and fluid replacement. No further problems since then”

“There was a recall on a hose issue by Honda. We had no problems with the car prior to service for the recall. Now when starting from a stop, it sometimes takes some effort to turn the steering wheel”

“A few months after timing and accessory belt replacement, loud whining sound from engine, mechanic identified it as the power steering pump. Had to replace pump and associated repairs included with that”

“Power steering pump went out. Had to be replaced. This was shortly after a recall for the power steering hoses”

“power steering unit developed noise”

“Recall to replace powersteering high pressure hose”

“The steering became "heavy " as if the power steering failed,asked if there was a service bulletin.There was not dealer installed a new pump and hoses”

“Power steering leaking and squealing. hose was replaced to stop leak but squealing remains”

“The power steering pump makes loud whirring noises, especially when it's cold. Very difficult to turn the wheel when parking or parked”

“Needed new power steering pump”

“Have had two recalls for power steering and it continues to have problems. Had my own mechanic fix it once as well. Have had to replace fluid”

“The power steering pump went out and had to be replaced”

“rear strut fluid leak”

“Driver side front strut was leaking. Replaced both left & right front struts”

“Rear suspension poor. It feels like wheel doesn't immediately return to same position after riding over a man hole cover or worse. Like it gets pulled backward ( 30 or plus m.p.h. )”

“strut supports broke”

“Had to replace rear struts - vehicle only has 50,000 miles”

“Issue was with struts - normal wear & tear”

“rear struts were worn out. Rear of car would sit low if loaded with some luggage”

“Mechanic says both front and rear struts needs replacing, along with some ball joints in the front suspension. Estimated cost for all these repairs: $1500. I have not had the repairs done yet due to the high cost. The front suspension is a little”

“Rack needs replacement”

“I had to put two steering racks in this car. One at 65,000 and another at 105,000”

“There were some suspension noises . Asked dealer to inspect while doing the power steering . It came up with both outer tie rods being worn out”

“Tie rods and control arms replaced on both driver and passenger sides at 100,000 miles”

“Tires were wearing very badly and unevenly. Tires were severely damaged in just a few weeks. This may have been caused by hitting a deep pothole. I did take it to a shop and they found the car badly out of alignment, but were able to fix it”

“One rear wheel bearing was making noise and had to be replaced. We decided to replace both rear wheel bearings so as to prevent a future problem with the other (non-problematic) wheel bearing. Cost: $350.00”

“Compressor failied”

“AC stopped working and I had to replace AC compressor”

“A/C compressor relay failed. AC charge was good. Still cost 160.00”

“had to replace”

“When I put the AC on, hot air comes out. I wiggle the dial to the lowest setting and it seems to work An intermittent problem. I have not taken to dealer as I plan to get a new car soon”

“with Air condition on, driver side air is warm”

“The "climate control" on the 2007 Accord is a fake. It does not maintain cabin temperature at the indicated temperature, or at any fixed temperature for that matter. Instead, it puts forth a level of heat that relates to the indication on the display”

“the driver side a/c gives heat occasionally. You need to lower it to "LO" for a few seconds and then return it to the temp desired. It starts working ok then”

“blender door malfunctioning. stays too hot”

“replaced HVAC control motor”

“I always get heat even when the temperature is 80 degrees outside and I have the temperature indide the car at 74. I can get air conditioning if I set both controls at low and then turn up the temperature control. An airconditioning mechanic put in”

“The automatic climate control comes on intermittently. I have to push several buttons several times to get the ac to come on”

“It turns off sometimes”

“only hot air from driver side vents. No AC”

“Ball bearings were shot. When blower did work prior to stopping, ticking sound when a/c fan was on. Eventually, fan did not come on and unit was replaced”

“The fan motor started working intermittently over a 30 day period ultimately resulting in the A/C failing to work at all. The repairs resulted in approx. $600 to replace the part and labor was excessive due to the location of the part”

“Was blowing hot air at times and had to replace the blower”

“It simply broke down and had to be replaced last year”

“A relay intermittently failed and eventually had to be replaced. The cost was only $65, but the problem went unrepaired for months because of the intermittent nature of the failure”

“Electrical relay to compressor”

“Heater core leak with only 89000 miles on car”

“Blower box door foam strips deteriorated preventing a proper seal to exhaust hot air to the floor of the interior. Foam dust particles blew from all dash the vents like confetti into the interior. Estimate for labor to remove the dashboard to gain ac”

“AC stopped working after 1 year. I have extended warranty and was told a/c not covered. Took to a local shop and had refrigerant installed. Currently working”

“Had to take vehicle in twice to get problem resolved. While they claimed it was likely a rock that punctured, I had learned that Accords had this type of problem”

“We had the condenser replaced 1.5 years ago and had to have it repaired again last week”