Honda Accord

"Rear brake caliper frozen requiring replacement"

"All pads and rotors were replaced in 2013. About 5k miles later one caliper seized up and had to replaced. Cost of the two repairs was about $1200"

"calipers froze and damaged the rotors'"

"they wore out way too soon - corroded"

"Calipers would not move"

"The drivers side rear caliper has failed twice since we bought this car"

"All calipers on this car have been replaced twice now. Characterized by noise and roughness and sudden brake wear"

"Had to replace caliper on driver side twice"

"Calipers on rear brakes stopped working resulting in excessive wear on front breaks and warping of the front rotors. Over $500 to repair front and rear brakes. Private garage did repairs and no further problems"

"one screwed up resulting in pulsing brakes and prepature wear"

"Both rear calipers needed to be replaced"

"Had to replace front calipers, due to squeaking noise, due to it getting rusted and jammed"

"Calibers were freed up, and lubed"

"after having need brakes installed at 96000 miles caliper became stuck closed shortly after"

""frozen" calipers which let to warping of disks"

"Rear left caliper seized, causing me to take vehicle to shop. They were able to "unseize" the caliper but pads needed to be replaced due to the seizure"

"Calipers and rotors had to be replaced"

"one set of calipers made noise, only to find that another set didn't provide any braking at all"

"Have has issues with rear calipers on 2 occasions causing replacement and damage to the rotors"

"Calipers will start suddenly to hold brake pads to rotors causing tires to be extremely hot."

"Sounded like normal caliber replacement."

"one caliper locked after Honda maintenance replaced the brakes after the first 93000 miles."

"Rear calipers seize approximately every two to three years costing from $400-$750 to be replaced (calipers, pistons, rotors, pads, etc.)."

"First the rear calipers became worn out and I replaced them (and the rotors) myself. Later the front calipers became worn out and I also replaced them (and the rotors) myself."

"The fluid level was low so they flushed it but had difficulties in getting it adjusted. In the end the dealer solved the problem"

"have experienced pulsation/vibration when braking from a relatively high speed,which according to records has happened periodically in the past"

"Need to replace braking system"

"Normal Brake wear"

"Replaced rear brake pads and resurfaced disc. First brake work at 87000 miles!"

"Warning by serve mechanics about worn brake pads"

"gets squeaky sounding even if the brakes are ok"

"Worn front brakes"

"Seems like we are constantly replacing brake pads"

"Replaced rear brake pads only"

"Loud grinding noise on rear brakes"

"The rear brakes had rusty rotors and components were very rusty. Midwest winter salt is a problem"

"I had no problems. Brake wear was discovered in routine maintenance by trusted mechanic and, considering age of car, it was not surprising"

"Brake pads low, squeaky. Normal wear and tear for the most part"

"Rear brake plate cracked and was replaced"

"Honda service department advised me to have brakes repaired"

"Ft brakes and rotors needed replacement"

"Disc pads were worn out and rotors needed resurfacing"

"Normal pad replacement and disc machining"

"Replace brake pads"

"During routine maintenance, the brake wear was brought to my attention"

"The brake pads wear out too quickly - less than 12,000 miles"

"I did not have to do any work on the brakes for this car until it was over 60,000 miles"

"Accord brakes wear too fast and need frequent replacement. I have replaced brakes 3 times in 50000 miles. Brake fluid must also be replaced each time"

"Inspection showed it needed new brake pads, so we had them replaced."

"Did not hear/see any indication of brakes needing replacing"

"We replaced the front brakes last fall and a couple weeks ago replaced the back brakes. The other problems I mentioned (rotors and squeaking noises) are associated with the brake replacement(s)."

"Normal routine wear and tear of brakes, requiring replacing of brakes & pads."

"normal front brake facing"

"wore below wear pads soundings notifications"

"failed inspection due to parking brake- had to be adjusted - nothing major"

"rear left brake pad worn due to piston siezing"

"I have 35000miles on my car and brake pads have had to be replaced twice"

"Break premature wear has been a problem ever since I bought the car with 20,000 miles on it. Replaced brakes at 35,000 and 3 times more with 72000 miles on it. Do not know why"

"Even though I always took it for timely service, the pads wore down and scored the rotors, which had to be replaced. Because of the low mileage, I feel that this was premature wear"

"brakes don't give decent milage and rotors warp"

"Seems like we are constantly replacing brake pads"

"rear brakes needed replacement long before front brakes - front brakes are only 60% worn now"

"It was hard to differentiate between simple brake wear and the caliper issues, which caused uneven and rapid wear. But rotors and pads have been the second biggest expense on this car"

"Bad caliper"

"replaced rear brakes at 60000 and 96000. Seems to be a common problem"

"Worn rotators"

"Had to have brakes replaced 4 times since I bought the car"

"Break pads don't seem to last more than 25,000-30,000 miles. Since they were done once before and the rotors turned, I needed new rotors this time as well as pads. $$$"

"The 2007 Honda Accord routinely requires brake and rotor replacement every 10,000 - 12,000 with normal driving. The dealer told us this was "normal""

"Our dealer service said that the premature brake wear and rotors and calipers going out of round was a common problem on 2003-2007 Accords.They replaced all the front brake components, which was expensive, but it solved the problem and the grabbing"

"I had to change rotors and brake pads a few times and I am not hard on brakes at all - most of my driving is highway. The handbrake also seized up even though I make sure to use it regularly. I'm not happy with the brakes on my Honda"

"Back brake pads wear prematurely as they are too small"

"third set of rotors in 10 yrs"

"this year of Honda had poor brakes oem when I bought the car I found this fact in Consumer Guide but considered I could upgrade after purchase"

"brakes in hte accord had to be replaced 3 times in 50000 miles"

"From purchase, had problems with rotor warping, or so I was told by Honda. They turned the rotor twice but it kept vibrating at higher speeds when I braked. I finally got online and read about it in car chat rooms. Turned out Honda was using cheap brake pads that easily melted and stuck to the rotor (something like that, I'm not mechanical). Solution was to pump the brakes instead of holding them down. Altho there is still a little vibration at higher speeds when I brake, it seems to be much better."

"Front brake calipers tend to lock in place because of road salt and snow then brakes wear unevenly and much faster. They go from OK to dangerous, noisy, and metal on metal very fast."

"The pulsation and vibration is always related tothe rotors; it disappears when the rotors are resurfaced."

"The issue was caused by uneven wear of the disk. Had to replace front right disk well before the normal expected lifespan."

"the front and rear brake pads needed replacing"

"Right rear brake failure. Caliper failed"

"Pretty normal wear and tear on brakes. New pads were put on the front"

"Excessive wear and tear on front. Might be because of bad winter and constant braking on pot hole filled roads"

"premature wear"

"Normal brake pad and rotor wear"

"The rotors and calipers in bad shape. Metal on metal"

"I purchased cheap after market rotors at a local repair shop, which haven't held up. Lesson learned"

"With the low mileage on the car I did not think the breaks and rotors needed to be changed. I've also had to replace the tires do the age not wear"

"Unusual wear pattern on the inboard side of both rotors. Only the middle half of the surface was making pad contact. The rest of the surface was corroded with no signs of friction. Replaced rotors and pads"

"Factory rotors warp quickly causing steering vibration. I replaced all 4 rotors and pads"

"had to br replaced because of excessive wear"

"Breaking driving down long steep grade experienced violent shuttering from right rear brake/rotor. Front brakes always emit grinding noise but when inspected no problems found"

"Had to replace back rotors after experiencing squealing while braking & while rolling"

"Original Brakes pulsate in high speed stop. Tebuilt by dealer at approx. 70000 miles. Pulsation soon returned"

"Rear rotors very rusty, had to replace"

"Rusted and locked in place. Loud sounds, concerned about safety. Received different responses from three auto repair shops. Still not sure which was correct"

"When braking at a speed of 55-60, my car vibrated"

"We had our rotors resurfaced and new brake pads installed and within 3 months had to pay to have the rotors, pads and struts totally replaced because they were all worn down"

"brakes were pulling and grinding. Stopping was not as accurate. Brake repair 1 year after purchase. Told system was inspected and reliable"

"Vibration when braking"

"By the time you notice pads need replacing, the rotors are too worn to be resurfaced"

"Rotors and pads replaced"

"Both front rotors wore down and went out of round. The brakes pulsated and vibrated on harder decelerations. The brake pedal was very touchy and grabbed when lightly applied"

"bad front end squeak & vibration with cheap rotors turn & install"

"if car sits for over one week without use rotors rust and brakes become unreliable. Not good for snowbirds. We now give it to a relative to use while we are away otherwise new rotors and pads on all four wheels"

"Apparently Accords have an issue with rotor wear. I've had mine turned and just recently replaced due to excessive wear. The mechanic told me he was on his THIRD set of rotors on a much newer model Accord"

"The rotors had to be replaced, but this is normal wear and tear. I have over 170000 miles on the car. I expected that this could happen"

"Before this Honda I had 2 Toyota Camrys that went over 300000km with only one change of rotors. This car is on the 4th set after 140000km"

"Typical wear, I smelled brakes. Rotor was hot and replaced both rear rotors"

"Replaced rotors as normal maintenance, after about 8-9 months I started getting a vibration while braking. I went to dealer for another problem and mentioned the vibration and the resurfaced the rotors at no charge. I was within the 12 month warranty period at the time"

"Front & back rotors rusted and pitted and had to be replaced"

"Honda has poor brake rotors"

"Regular wear items: pads and rotors were replaced for both front and rear"

"Faulty service center inspection almost caused my rear brake shoes to fall off. I was told I had 60% on my rear brakes, but they were actually worn through. I took the car back when squealing noise grew frighteningly loud and shoes and rotors were replaced"

"The car is prone to warp its rotors. This is the second time we've replaced the rear rotors and first time for the front ones"

"The Rotors wear away too fast - which also includes the pads and calipers get stuck"

"My mech. said the rotors needed to be ground to make them even in order to bring about smooth contact with the brake pads thus giving a smooth braking power."

"Normal replacement."

"Rotor had to be shaved a few months after purchase. This happened several times. Finally had to replace it. Then it happened again. Honda never could explain it. But reading many online car chat rooms, I learned that Honda was putting cheap brake pads on that were actually melting onto the rotor. It wasn't warping. The brakes were sticking to it and making the surface uneven."

"The rotors have had to be worked on several times - always due to warping. They have now been replaced twice - the second time with rotors that are guaranteed to not warp (about 15 months ago) and they are already starting to gently pulse when the brakes are applied."

"they seem to need replacing a lot. maybe due to winter salt?"

"My auto technician recommended upgraded rotor and pads and they improved the brakes and the rotors should not have to be replaced for a third time."

"the rotors have warped prematurely since the car was new. I had them replaced with better rotors, but the problem persists. The rotors have to be turned every 10-15 thousand miles due to annoying vibration. This has not been an issue on any other car I've owned, but was an issue on my 1986 Accord."

"From the time it was anew car, the rotors warped reliably every 10-12 month and had to be turned. I put upgraded rotors on it, but the condition has persisted, even though I don't drive it any longer. A shame for an other wise excellent car."

"When the rear and front calipers became worn out, I also replaced the rotor. I performed this work myself."

"By the time, the brakes started squeaking. My brakes were in very bad shape. Usually, the cars brakes will start to squeak when the brakes begin to wear down. And that did not happen with my car. When I took my Honda to the dealership they were very"

"Sudden onset constant screeching/squeaking - mechanic indicated need for new rear rotors"

"Part failure in rear suspension causing squeaks on road bumps. Cost $100 to repair parts and labor"

"it was more of a grinding when the brakes were applied"

"Brakes were replaced under extended warrantee"

"The rotors were just worn out and needed replacing"

"It was just time to replace the breaks, so they did squeak"

"Squeaking was related to the brakes being worn down (regular brake wear and tear)."

"Not really an issue considering the mileage on the car. However, there had been an issue in the past with rubbing that after several failed attempts resulted in brake replacement. That was. In the area of 30 - 40000 miles"

"Routine alignment check showed rear wheel misalignment. The were no obvious symptoms"

"Had trouble maintaining alignment, turned out to be both control rods & stabilizer bar needed replacement. OK since then."

"Needed a camber kit installed on rear wheels due to limitation of rear camber adjustment."

"The car had 100000plus miles so the shocks and struts were overdue for replacement so no big issue here. The alignment has always been an issue. The transmission was also a problem and needed to be replaced at 50000 miles which I thought was a bit premature. Dealer would not replace under warranty."

"It was very loud and squeaky. The shop replaced the driver's side ball joint, and a year later did it all again"

"worn out after 65000m, is kind of sooj"

"Loss of lubrication to joints. Boots failed. Was very surprised for a Honda and it should not have happened"

"Because of wear these parts need replacing"

"OEM Ball joints installed by a Honda dealership started to show free play and look worn, within 11 months. Thus, I do not trust that the Honda dealership actually used OEM Ball joints"

"The steering started creaking and then started to stiffen, requiring more force to turn the wheel. When I took it to the Honda dealer for repair, the left front wheel broke from the chassis as the mechanic drove the car into the garage. I had to get both ball joints in the front replaced. This could have been a serious crash had it happened while I was driving."

"Wearing out and need to be replaced"

"Needed to replace bushings after 25,000 mi. Required realignment, so the job was expensive"

"need to replace the bushing on the lower control arm, worn out on one - passanger side. I have decided to replace the entire arm, due to high labor cost"

"Front lower control arm front bushing cracked. Common problem from what I can find"

"Bushings wore out and caused uneven tire wear"

"Right side needed to be replaced"

"Honda Accords have a common problem with rubber compliance bushing that need to be replaced between 80000 ad 10000 costing from $500 to $600 for repair because of tearing. this causes steering wheel to vibrate at certain speeds."

"Loud clunk when went over significant bumps in road."

"bushings wore-out, needed new struts $800 later fixed, still get vibration"

"general wear and tear because of car age, required replacement. car rides rough and always has"

"MINOR LEAK IN POWR STEERING PUMP"

"Seemed to make noise after starting when cold and fluid leakage was noticed. Replaced power steering reservoir, related parts and fluid"

"A power steering hose developed a crack"

"Leaks and noise when the weather was cold"

"it was leaking fluid"

"Bascially noise related to power steering. It did not interfere with the operation of the car."

"Power steering pump leaked."

"At about 173000 miles the power steering pump began to leak and required a after market pump replacement."

"Power steering pump noise that was fixed with power steering fluid flush and fluid replacement. No further problems since then"

"There was a recall on a hose issue by Honda. We had no problems with the car prior to service for the recall. Now when starting from a stop, it sometimes takes some effort to turn the steering wheel"

"A few months after timing and accessory belt replacement, loud whining sound from engine, mechanic identified it as the power steering pump. Had to replace pump and associated repairs included with that"

"Power steering pump went out. Had to be replaced. This was shortly after a recall for the power steering hoses"

"power steering unit developed noise"

"Recall to replace powersteering high pressure hose"

"The steering became "heavy " as if the power steering failed,asked if there was a service bulletin.There was not dealer installed a new pump and hoses"

"Power steering leaking and squealing. hose was replaced to stop leak but squealing remains"

"The power steering pump makes loud whirring noises, especially when it's cold. Very difficult to turn the wheel when parking or parked"

"Needed new power steering pump"

"Have had two recalls for power steering and it continues to have problems. Had my own mechanic fix it once as well. Have had to replace fluid"

"The power steering pump went out and had to be replaced"

"Power steering pump had to be replaced"

"in August a clamp broke causing a hose or belt to hit the power steering reservoir putting a hole in it, Everything needed to be replaced"

"The steering became harder and would make a whining noise every time the car was cold and started. The power steering pump had failed and needed to be replaced. Nothing major but cost a few hundred dollars. The car has mostly been extremely reliable and I take care of it meticulously and follow the Honda maintenance schedule religiously"

"PowerSteering pump failed and was replaced by my local mechanic"

"Power steering pump had to be replaced. Major hose was replaced on recall after that the pump made noise when ever cold. finally replaced it"

"Hard steering esp. in cold weather, whining when steering while stationary"

"Replaced power steering pump. It had been making terrible noises and getting worse"

"they went out"

"Hose blew out and all fluid lost. Steering became very hard. Was able to drive several miles to my regular repair shop."

"power steering pump developed leak as result of air in system and eventually failed"

"felt some vibration and Honda mechanic confirmed it was failing"

"Pump was noisy when engine was cold. Noise then went away"

"PS pump gave out. Had to replace it. But come on the vehicle was 12 years old!"

"pump leaking, replaced by dealership"

"At first it was hard to steer when I backed up. As the condition got worse it was hard to steer all the time."

"The power steering pump randomly started leaking and the steering was dysfunctional. It was a very costly repair."

"Power steering pump began to malfunction and was replaced."

"rear strut fluid leak"

"Driver side front strut was leaking. Replaced both left & right front struts"

"Rear suspension poor. It feels like wheel doesn't immediately return to same position after riding over a man hole cover or worse. Like it gets pulled backward ( 30 or plus m.p.h. )"

"strut supports broke"

"Had to replace rear struts - vehicle only has 50,000 miles"

"Issue was with struts - normal wear & tear"

"rear struts were worn out. Rear of car would sit low if loaded with some luggage"

"Mechanic says both front and rear struts needs replacing, along with some ball joints in the front suspension. Estimated cost for all these repairs: $1500. I have not had the repairs done yet due to the high cost. The front suspension is a little"

"I had to replace the rear struts. The driver side strut had failed"

"Mechanic told me these were caused by terrible condition of the roads in NJ"

"Replace 4 struts due to age & wear"

"one sway bar link was broken and one was loose. Replacement was required. Cost $280.00. Viewed as "normal wear for mileage""

"All four struts need to be replaced and one of them has leaked out all of its oil"

"Rear shocks/struts/springs leak fluid after twelve years. expensive to replace."

"A mechanic said I need to replace struts and shocks to correct pulling to the right."

"The rear shock on the passenger side developed a ruptured bladder causing the shock to leak fluid and fail."

"they just wore out early"

"Replaced complete strut/shock assembly on all four wheels."

"The front and rear struts/shocks had to be replaced, along with the rear tires due to premature tire wear"

"All four of the struts have failed and need to be replaced"

"Shocks and struts were original so they were more than due for replacement. Alignment has always been an issue."

"Struts quit working after honda service put car on lift. very expensive"

"had replaced, but still reacts to road imperfections more than I would like"

"$600 to replace struts/shocks as vehicle ride was rough"

"ride is too bumpy. Will replace 2 or 4 shocks after Covid 19 is less of a problem"

"Lower control arm on one side was rusted/deteriorated to the point of almost failure. The other side was almost as bad. Both lower control arms were replaced and and the front end aligned. Cost $640. Car runs well after the repair."

"Rack needs replacement"

"I had to put two steering racks in this car. One at 65,000 and another at 105,000"

"Boots had begun leaking fluid. Rack and pinion assembly and steering gear were replaced. We understand that this is not uncommon for Accords the age of our car"

"replaced rack & pinion"

"ps fluid leaking from ends of rack and pinion assembly. cOST AT DEALERSHIP QUOTED AT $1,000. aLSO POWER STEERING PUMP NEEDS REPLACEMENT (LEAKING) AT AN ADDITIONAL $400"

"Rack and pinion developed leak which allowed air in system causing the power steer pump to fail and loss of power steering."

"Had to replace power steering pump, and rack and pinion."

"Honda maintenance suggested it should be replaced"

"The rack & pinion unit suffered a sudden mechanical failure, resulting in a total loss of steering control, causing the car to veer into the oncoming lane. Fortunately this occurred within city limits and there was no collision with other traffic."

"There were some suspension noises . Asked dealer to inspect while doing the power steering . It came up with both outer tie rods being worn out"

"Tie rods and control arms replaced on both driver and passenger sides at 100,000 miles"

"Failed"

"I didn't notice any issue but was discovered during a regular inspection."

"Tires were wearing very badly and unevenly. Tires were severely damaged in just a few weeks. This may have been caused by hitting a deep pothole. I did take it to a shop and they found the car badly out of alignment, but were able to fix it"

"The car pulls slightly to the right."

"Wheel balance/alignment on this car is super sensitive. BARELY bump a curb? pay for an alignment. Gap between driveway exit and street more than a couple of inches? pay for an alignment. Get caught in a strong crosswind? pay for another alignment. Kidding about that last one, but not by much!"

"One rear wheel bearing was making noise and had to be replaced. We decided to replace both rear wheel bearings so as to prevent a future problem with the other (non-problematic) wheel bearing. Cost: $350.00"

"have a roaring sound"

"Compressor failied"

"AC stopped working and I had to replace AC compressor"

"A/C compressor relay failed. AC charge was good. Still cost 160.00"

"had to replace"

"Does not hold the freon"

"Had to replace the expansion valve"

"A/c quit cooling. I believe it was the hoses"

"compressor failed, needed replacement as well as a relay that failed"

"Did not cool the car"

"Needed to get the coolant recharged. No leaks"

"Air not blowing cold"

"AC compressor went out and replaced it with a new one as well as multiple other components. Something else was also wrong that had caused problems for the compressor. I have not yet tracked it down"

"Compressor was bad and had to be replaced."

"I just discovered my a/c is not working. I have not done anything about it yet - but I will have to soon. I think Honda has the best a/c of any car."

"Because of the location of the compressor, I have had to replace it TWICE in 5 years. Design makes it susceptible to puncture."

"The compressor stoped working"

"Vents on passenger side blow hot air intermittently"

"Complete failure -cost $1000 to replace"

"ONE OF THE ENGINE COOLANT FANS FAILED CAUSED COMPRESSOR ON AC TO OVER HEAT AND FREEZE. OIL IN COMPRESSOR BROKE DOWN AND CONTAMINATED THE ENTIRE AC SYSTEM HAD TO HAVE ALL PARTS OF IT REPLACED"

"Location of compressor makes it vulnerable to puncture. I had to replace compressor TWICE in 18 months."

"Metal filings in system from wear"

"The air conditioner doesn't cool anymore."

"no sure as it just occurred and has not been repaired yet"

"The AC stopped working last summer and I haven't taken it in yet for repairs"

"It started about a month ago and was a complete failure. One day it worked and the next day it didn't. First thing I checked was the freon and quickly found out that was not the problem. I work at a Honda dealership and they took a look at it and told me the compressor had failed and needs to be replaced. I have not replaced it yet, but will in a month or so after getting estimates from a few different places as well as Honda."

"When I put the AC on, hot air comes out. I wiggle the dial to the lowest setting and it seems to work An intermittent problem. I have not taken to dealer as I plan to get a new car soon"

"with Air condition on, driver side air is warm"

"The "climate control" on the 2007 Accord is a fake. It does not maintain cabin temperature at the indicated temperature, or at any fixed temperature for that matter. Instead, it puts forth a level of heat that relates to the indication on the display"

"the driver side a/c gives heat occasionally. You need to lower it to "LO" for a few seconds and then return it to the temp desired. It starts working ok then"

"blender door malfunctioning. stays too hot"

"replaced HVAC control motor"

"I always get heat even when the temperature is 80 degrees outside and I have the temperature indide the car at 74. I can get air conditioning if I set both controls at low and then turn up the temperature control. An airconditioning mechanic put in"

"The automatic climate control comes on intermittently. I have to push several buttons several times to get the ac to come on"

"It turns off sometimes"

"only hot air from driver side vents. No AC"

"One side blows cool air, the other side blows warm air"

"When putting on air conditioner, the left side will sometimes blow out hot air. We have to shut it off and turn it back on to stop the problem"

"System either puts outed extremely or extremely cold air. To get it to work correctly, the temperature has to be turned all the way down to "lo",left that way for 5 mins then readjusted"

"System would not maintain constant temperature"

"AC does not always blow cold air. Problem: sensor motor"

"When driver side and passenger side temperatures were set at the same number, hot air would blow out of one side and cold air out of the other. I could not regulate this and it took Honda over a year to acknowledge the issue. They finally fixed it at my cost."

"Valve directing heat and cooling stuck and had to be replaced"

"Car has an issue changing from heat to a/c. If the heat has to come on in the morning due to chill, if the afternoon is hot the heat will still be on and have to turn the temp all the way down for it to switch to turning the A/c on. System is supposed to automatically maintain whatever temp you set the system to."

"A/C blows cool on one side and hot on the other"

"The system stayed at maximum heating level on the driver's side regardless of adjusting the controls. After 3 days at the dealership, no problem was identified but it has worked well since then. No charge for the evaluation."

"When A/C is on, colder air blows out of passenger side while warmer air blows on drivers side"

"Blows hot air when you turn on air conditioning. Have o turn it off/on."

"Passenger side only cools of drivers side set to LO. Appointment for this problem has been scheduled for this coming week."

"Heat blows instead of cold for A/C. Must turn knob all the way off then back on for A/C to kick in."

"When I selected AC, heat came out instead"

"The a/c on the driver's side was blowing hot air but passenger side was cool. Dealer recharged a/c; which I felt was not the problem. Seven days later the driver's side a/c was blowing hot air again. This time the a/c mix motor was replaced & a/c is working fine."

"Blows cold air on one side of the panel and hot air on the opposite side. Sensor went bad and was replaced."

"Ball bearings were shot. When blower did work prior to stopping, ticking sound when a/c fan was on. Eventually, fan did not come on and unit was replaced"

"The fan motor started working intermittently over a 30 day period ultimately resulting in the A/C failing to work at all. The repairs resulted in approx. $600 to replace the part and labor was excessive due to the location of the part"

"Was blowing hot air at times and had to replace the blower"

"Intermittent problems with blower moter not working, until I finally had it replaced"

"Fan quit working"

"Middle vents did not blow air"

"uneven blowing"

"The fan was replaced and is working now. The problem was resolved"

"Blower motor had to be chang"

"It simply broke down and had to be replaced last year"

"uneven output: drivers side hot air, passenger side cold air. Could not get car cool. Cost estimate to fix at dealer seemed excessive, so I went to AAA for a better price."

"hole in radiator. Replaced it."

"A relay intermittently failed and eventually had to be replaced. The cost was only $65, but the problem went unrepaired for months because of the intermittent nature of the failure"

"Electrical relay to compressor"

"Heater core leak with only 89000 miles on car"

"Blower box door foam strips deteriorated preventing a proper seal to exhaust hot air to the floor of the interior. Foam dust particles blew from all dash the vents like confetti into the interior. Estimate for labor to remove the dashboard to gain ac"

"Heater remains on all the time unless you reduce the climate control all the way down to LOW"

"Hot air blows out the passenger side, and cold air blows out the drivers side. Most pronounced when using heat; also happens when using A/C. A/C can be worked around using dual-zone climate controls. Heat can't be fixed. Independent mechanic failed to fix the issue after 2 tries. Dealer said aftermarket fluid was clogging the heater core and needed to be flushed. Decided to live with the problem and not attempt a 3rd fix for now."

"My heating system blows cold air out the driver side vents. My favorite mechanic tried twice to fix the problem but failed. I took the car to a Honda dealer and they recommended a heater core flush. The job was too expensive so I've decided to live with the problem."

"AC stopped working after 1 year. I have extended warranty and was told a/c not covered. Took to a local shop and had refrigerant installed. Currently working"

"Had to take vehicle in twice to get problem resolved. While they claimed it was likely a rock that punctured, I had learned that Accords had this type of problem"

"We had the condenser replaced 1.5 years ago and had to have it repaired again last week"

"all houses wore out at the 135,000 mark and the repairs were estimated to cost in excess of $1600"

"Road damage caused refrigerant leak in the evaporator that sits in front of the radiator. Very expensive to replace and no way to increase protection to this unit. Not well designed, since it is vulnerable to damage from items hitting it while driving."

"It was minor; decreased effectiveness. Shop found leak. Fixed. All good now."

"Before the weather gets very hot, the AC will throw heat on the driver's side of the car but cool the passenger side. When the weather gets really hot, the problem disappears. Very strange."

"Annual problems with AC refrigerant leaks. Usually required more than one service to get fixed, and solution was ambiguous."