Honda Accord

"The ABS pump went. A part I was told by the dealer does not usually go. $1400.00!"

"VSA light coming on at odd times when cranking vehicle. Will cause engine to run erratically. Have to shut off and restart."

"required a full overhaul"

"The ABS/VSA modulator needed to be replaced"

"Normal wear"

"Caliber on driver rear sticking in spring 2020. To be repaired shortly."

"Calipers on rear brakes froze and locked the brakes in the full on position, destroyed the rear brakes and components. $800+ to repair at dealership"

"Calipers did not retract properly on rear wheels requiring replacement of calipers and brake pads"

"Caliper replacement twice in the past 28 months"

"10/14 had calipers replaced during brakes being replaced due to normal wear...Then in March 2015 Brake lights on and engine light. towed to Honda dealer was told it was "2-calipers and both back brakes, needed and brake pads worn badly". Reported n"

"occasional noise"

"Front left caliper froze and had to be replaced"

"left rear caliper froze. it was the original caliper"

"Stuck rear brake caliper. required new rotor + rebuild of the caliper"

"frozen rearcaliper"

"We've kept the car in good repair and were disappointed to find that the brakes were in very poor shape and needed a $3,000 repair"

"eventually the calipers {rear} were replaced on my extended warrantee"

"Faulty caliper system led to brakes failing on and wearing out the rotor as well. Recall issue"

"frequent problems with seized piston and/or slide pins"

"Replaced. (twice)"

"Frozen rear brake caliper, emergency brake wouldn't fully release"

"Front rotors warped, went to change calipers and someone from the factory had installed two different types of calipers on the front end, it had two different sets of brakes on it. Had to fight with the dealership to get it corrected"

"One of the rear calipers was sticking, causing uneven brake wear"

"Rear brake calipers leaking by the piston, and calipers needed replacement."

"as with my 2012 Accord, my 2008 accord also experienced locking calipers as they occasionally didn't fully release. This caused premature brake jobs and rotor replacement.. My cars are factory maintained so I would expect proper lube of all brake system components..they are never repairable and must be replaced"

"Rear brakes wore out and were replaced. One of the calipers used was faulty. It was replaced under warranty."

"ceased on our way home from our winter vacation . new calipers ,rotors brake &break pads warrantied .Still $600.00"

"The drivers side rear caliper has 'hung up' a few times over the years we've owned the car. When it happens it eats the brake disk and becomes costly to repair."

"the calapers sieze causing repair work or replacement"

"Needed to be replaced; normal wear"

"the connecting wire or the tire pressure system broke from the caliper to the wiring harness. May have been chewed through by rodents"

"Calliper did not work properly and it was the reason the parking brake did not work"

"1 rear caliper seized and had to be replaced"

"I bought my Honda Accord in 2009 as a used car. After only having it for a week or two, I noticed that when stopped at a traffic light, the brake pedal would go down farther after about 20 seconds. I took it to a Honda dealer, but they couldn't find a problem. My husband put on new brakes and everything was ok for a while. I have frequently had to have my brakes replaced, due to the same problem. I thought that maybe something was off-center, but no one has seen that type of problem. I keep looking for a recall, but there hasn't been one."

"There was a brake issue where the brakes were "soft" and the pedal went in quite a ways before engaging - an easy fix - this service was completed in late 2019."

"brakes were making a noise"

"$1300 however prev brakes lasted 160000 kms. Citing this due to cost not vehicle failure."

"normal brake wear, replaced the front pads. All is OK now."

"My son drives this car. He just told me heard some screeching when he stopped so we took it in."

"NEEDED NEW ROTORS NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR"

"I was aware of the brake problems experienced with the 2008 Honda Accord, but my mechanic assured me they were corrected by using different brake pads. Wear problems now seem about normal"

"The brake pads were worn out and needed to be replaced"

"The brake pads, etc. need replacement more often than my last auto"

"Seems to be a recurring issue as brake pads wear faster than on my previous 1992 Accord"

"Even though brakes were tight they still would squeak/sqeal"

"No problem, have high mileage on car"

"rear brakes wear out first"

"Replacement of brakes, rotors, pads and calipers"

"squeaking noise caused by worn brake pads"

"-regular brake replacement (first time for this vehicle)"

"We have had maybe 4-5 brake jobs in almost 7 years. That seems a little excessive - the brakes would get a "warped" sort of feel a couple of the times and only a brake job would fix it. Could have been the fault of the repair person. Usually has g"

"Rear brakes seem to have a short lifespan"

"front brake pads & rotors . normal wear & tear"

"The rear brakes squealed when I backed up and applied the brake"

"needed brake shoes"

"replaced pads ywice rotots once we do a lot of highway driving"

"Started hearing grinding noises and had to bring to mechanic for evaluation and repair"

"Pretty good breaks. They just seem to wear a tad faster than other breaks"

"Had to replace rear brake pads for second time since new in 2008"

"Need to replace brake pads often"

"Need to put on new front brakes due to normal wear."

"Brakes pads on rear wheels are undersized, and thus wear out before front pads (unusual for most cars). It is a well known situation, and while not desirable, not a big deal."

"I needed new brake pads due to normal wear."

"Rear brakes worn down"

"was beginning to face major repairs and decided I wanted a newer car that was also easier to get in and out of rather than pay for more repairs - the honda was a great car for 10 years!"

"I use the parking brake all the time. Had to get the cable adjusted twice recently; seems to be stretching. Never had to replace a parking cable before - $450.00"

"parking brake cabe broke. my back right side wheel locked"

"This one really bugs me because of exorbitant cost and the fact that the tech didn't resolve this during a previous brake service event or even mention their was a problem (I knew it but didn't mention it during that service event). The failure is that the parking brake pulls all the way back and won't hold the car on a slight slope. Turns out that the Honda dealership said the problem was due to the parking brake cable being frozen in the calipers. I should have looked at that one before authorizing service. This required two new rear wheel calipers and the labor to fix it all for a total cost of $674. And by the way, I need to take this car back to the dealership due to improper brake bleeding (very spongy brake action)."

"Left rear parking brake seized; caliper had to be replaced. Same problem with right rear two years ago."

"Parking brake needs constant adjustment. Due to living in an area with salt, I believe I've got rust on the parking brake mechanism. Repair will be costly and not that essential."

"quit engaging. The mechanism had frozen on rear wheels and had to be replaced."

"The parking brake could no longer be adjusted so that it would hold. Both caliper subassemblies had to be replaced plus labor. Outrageous cost of $678.02 including tax."

"Parking brake seized at approx 130000 kilometres"

"The reason the parking brake did not work it is because of brake calliper malfunction"

"Seized rear caliper, required replacement"

"Parking brake mechanism failed requiring replacement of rear calipers as PB is built-in"

"Had a brake job done at the dealership, the parking break got stuck off, they said it was a problem with caliper"

"Parking brake seized due to lack of use"

"Unusual rear brake pad wear. Replaced rear pads with less than 20,000 miles. Front pads minimal wear. A Note included in replacement pads box saying to insert a new part in rear assembly that will prevent unusual wear. It has extended the rear brake usage substantially."

"Rear brakes seem to go before the front ones"

"Rear brakes wore quicker than they should. Honda repaired at no charge."

"At 74 years old you can imagine that I've driven a few cars in the past 50 years. Brakes usually last 40 to 50 thoUSnd miles. I have had to replace my pads at 25 thoUSnd and will soon need new ones again"

"The front brakes, pads and rotors lasted 88000miles. I've had to replace the rear dics,and pads 3x, and the rotors 2x. I was told this was "normal""

"rear brakes; complete service around 30K and again at 50K"

"was told it was my fault by dealer"

"rear pads wore down at about 30,000 miles and cut into the rotors within 3 to 4 days of hearing them starting to squeal. front pads were fine,"

"Rear brake pads wore out VERY prematurely. I check my cars regularly, so it was not a big problem for me, but for others it might be. I replaced the rear pads, and checked the rotors"

"Rear brakes required replacement at 25,000 and 60,000 miles. Past Honda's went 50,000 miles before rear brakes needed replacing"

"Had to relace rear brakes at 20,000 miles"

"rear brake pads were wearing out after 24000 miles. Was told this was normal???"

"Seems like I have to replace the pads a lot. Once per year is excessive in my opinion"

"Had to replace rear brakes every 20K miles 3 times"

"Brakes had to be replaced twice: first time, they had to be done before receiving factory notification of a recall. We were not able to get reimbursed for that cost"

"Excessive brake pad wear. Also problems with premature wear of rear wheel brake drums"

"Rear brake pads had very rapid wear. Honda stiff-armed us when we knew this was a common problem on this car"

"Rear brake pads replaced at 41000 miles. At 61000 miles, rear brake pads again needed to be replaced, along with brake lines, calipers, and rotors. Total cost for both brake jobs $1,100"

"I go easy on the brakes and they still need frequent reapirs. The calipers get stuck and the pads have a short shelf life"

"I just replaced the brakes for the fourth time in 100,000 miles of driving. About 40% of the driving was highway. The brakes were part of a recall on this Honda Accord Sedan EX-L. We missed the 40,000 mile brake recall reimbursement"

"warped disc = vibrating pedal stops with longer distance stops"

"Rear break wear"

"The rear breaks wore down before the car was 1 year old. Since I bought the car, I have had 5 rear brake services"

"The brakes have worn out prematurely multiple times"

"Brakes wear at 15K despite the recall. horrible brake life"

"Rear brakes are defective. They wear 4x the front brakes"

"I felt that brake wear was at a faster rate than I expected. When the car was new, the brakes were replaced by the dealership prematurely. Although the performance now seems better, but I still feel the brakes need replacement more frequently"

"needed to replace both Rotors & Pads after 25000 on rear brakes"

"Every 8 to 12 months, the brakes have to be repaired and usually include replacement of rotors. Cost is between $200 and $700"

"Brake pads required replacement twice, more than any prior vehicle I have owned"

"Seems like we have to repair to often"

"Rear brakes consistently wear at about 3 times the expected rate. It appears to be a problem with the design"

"Every 25000 miles the rear brake pads need to be replaced"

"Car has had brakes replaced many more times then normal"

"Rear brakes replaced prematurely at 35,000 and 72,000 km while front brakes are still in excellent shape"

"Wore out too soon. Less than 20k miles on new brakes"

"rear brake calipers not retracting , resulting in pad wear"

"Something wrong with the callipers that wore into the brakes and basically destroyed them. A friend with a Civic had the same problem. Now squeaks constantly"

"Rear brake pads wore out for the 2nd time. Still have original brakes on the front with 70% of their life remaining"

"The brakes need to be changed after 28,000 miles. Other cars would go 50,000 before changing"

"This is the second break replacement on the car with only 43,000 miles. The first was at 19,000 miles and was partially covered due to a class-action law suit. Knowing that the car is a 2008 and has not been abused in its 42,000 miles we believe that"

"We have had to replace the brake pads on this car 4 times since we purchased it in 2008. My husband thinks the pads are too small for the car"

"Rear pads and rotors wore out in approximately 12000 kilometers worth of driving. Also required a new caliper"

"Again, the brakes appear to wear prematurely even though there is no aggressive driving and braking behaviour involved. And the repair replacement cost is high"

"Fast rotor wear"

"Parking brake froze in a way that caused premature wear on the pads, rotors and the parking brake was ineffective. The brakes were only partially effective creating a safety issue"

"COMPLETE Rear Brake Failure Two (2) times in the last three (3) years"

"rear brake pads wore off prematurely"

"seems to be a grinding noise took it in had fixed but still does the same thing"

"Shoes were new when purchased. Required replacement within 15,000 miles."

"The stopping distance was so long that it was unsafe. I had to stomp on the brakes and stay stomped or there would be no stopping at all"

"rear pads wear out in approx. 20,000 miles. this is extremely premature. 60% of the miles driven are on the highway."

"Brakes exude excessive brake dust and constantly leave the wheels grimy and impossible to keep clean."

"Brake pads wore out prematurely"

"Rear brake pads wear faster than front pads."

"There was rubbing or grinding noise when backing up. require broke repair"

"A stone managed to get lodged tin the rear brake causing damage. Calipers, pads, and rotors needed to be replaced."

"The front breaks seized up because of rust."

"The brakes seem to last only 20,000 miles"

"Since new, the rear brakes have always worn down at the 30,000 mile mark while the front brakes lasted over 65,00 miles...In my experience, this should be reversed. I would guess that the proportional valve is to fault but the dealer says it is "normal"???"

"This car burns thru rear brakes every 2 years, and usually the rotors too"

"3 brake jobs in 8 years"

"Rear brakes have been poor from day 1. Undersized and Honda effectively ignores impact of electronic brake distribution system using rear brakes at greater percentage than they are designed for"

"Have to replace either the front or rear brakes almost every year"

"The rear disk brake pads were wearing excessively. A recall caused Honda to fix the problem"

"I have had to replace the rear brakes (pads and calipers) at least five times since I bought the car in 2011. I wasn't aware that this car had break problems when I purchased it, but now see that there was a lawsuit. I have to have the pads replaced nearly every oil change. I have spend over $2000 on this"

"Rear brakes only last 15to 20000 miles"

"Have had the brakes repaired/replaced 4 times since purchase"

"brakes have continuously been a problem. Pads wear, calipers rotors have been replaced multiple times"

"Braking faded. The SRS had a product recall Other than that, it has been a great car"

"The pulsation was caused by the brake system being worn out. Each time the brakes were applied, the front tires and steering wheel would pulsate."

"related to the previous comment and fixed in 2019"

"Front brakes wore unevenly pulling car to right. "Brake job" cured problem."

"Brakes needed replacing from normal wear"

"Rear brakes needed to be replaced after less than 75,000 miles"

"Roters make the front end Quiver. Brakes makes a strange noise Dealer states brakes are fine. Problem will go away when I replace them"

"Rotors were warped from heavy braking"

"Rotors caused extreme vibration"

"This was not the fault of Honda, the garage we used put the wrong sized rotors on"

"Needed to replace the front rotors due to pulsing brakes. Fixed the problem"

"Rotors cause vibration"

"Parking break locked up rear brakes resulting in replacing rotars"

"rotors warped and premature wear of brake linings"

"Frequent "hot-spotting" on rotors, original and after-market. Causing lots of vibration front and rear. Just had to have the back rotors replaced again"

"Front rotors were warped causing pulsing on braking. The rotors were resurfaced and the pads were replaced"

"Honda changed is brake design in late 2008 and on the 2009 models. We have both of those cars and have had to put brakes in the both twice"

"front rotors warped"

"After some wear on the turned rotors, at speeds above 45 mph, applying brakes causes front-end to shake and shimmy. Repeatedly told nothing wrong with rotors, but I can continue to have them turned at my expense"

"rotors became warped after only normal driving. I had to have the rotors replaced at my expense"

"Had to replace front rotors at about 80000 miles. Works fine now"

"Persistent rear brake rotor vibration. Rotors resurfaced and replaced many times in past. Issue not repaired within the last 12 months"

"Rotors needed resurfaced along with lube of calipers and slider pins"

"Have the Honda Shimmy when applying breaks due to warped rotors"

"They wear out too quickly"

"Had to replace the front rotors, seem to warp very easy"

"Wear indicators are on the inside pad but the out side pads wear out first and damage the rotors without any warning from the wear indicators"

"Warped"

"when I brake I get a wobble"

"noisy brake and sluggish steering brought me to the dealer who diagnosed and repaired the brakes"

"Rotors had to be replaced"

"This car burns thru rear brakes so quickly that the rotors also need replacing when changing the rear pads"

"Rotors warp causing significant steering wheel vibration when braking"

"Front rotors had to be reqplacee after 182000 kilometres normal maintenance"

"Just normal wear"

"Normal wear, rotors, pads and calipers on rear brakes"

"Pulsation noise very expensive Honda OEM ROTORS, pads and related parts"

"There was noise coming from the front end. The dealer advised that I needed pads and rotors. I agreed to the pads but asked why the rotors could not be turned. I was told that turning was not recommended. I authorized the repair and asked to have the worn rotors placed in the car. Instead, they were discarded by the mechanic"

"Replaced all 4 rotors for first time in 70000 kms. I consider it normal wear"

"The front rotors were replaced under Honda warranty due to premature wear. Repair was completed before failure could occur"

"Dealership would clean off the glazed brakes and then the road grime would make them squeak/squeal. Then the dealership said for us to "slam on the brakes" to correct the problem but only once a month to do this. The brakes are designed to do this"

"Rear brakes made squeaking noise when stopping. Replaced pads on all four wheels"

"Noisy brakes all the time"

"The brakes on this car have squeaked since we purchased this car in 2009. Honda can not do anything to correct it they say"

"Squeaks when breaking. Mechanic sprays anti-squeak when I get my tires switched, but only lasts for a while"

"Original factory problem and class action suit which I was not aware of I did get reimbursed by Honda for brake replacement pads,no labor. Continue to have problems with sticking and squeaking and am now needing to go back to dealership to have brak"

"I had my car serviced and the mechanic heard squealing from the brakes and originally thought I might need new brake pads but found that dirt in the calipers was rubbing on the rotors causing the noise. Paid $80 for repair and less than a week later the squealing returned but at least I knew the brake system was operational and safe for driving"

"Check engine light comes on. Airbags replaced by Honda due to as recall at not cost"

"I had to replace my upper and lower ball joints which cost over $500. The mechanic said the upper joints do not routinely fail. Our street does have some potholes which may have contributed to the problem"

"Right lower ball joint replaced due to clunking"

"I hit a very large pothole and thought I would have a flat tire. When I took the car in for inspection the damage was discovered."

"User due to rough driving on oneaven pavment"

"Left front ball joint was damaged causing steering wheel vibration. It was repaired before it could fail"

"Sway bar bushings causing rattle"

"AT my recent service (60000 miles) the compliance bushings (on suspension control arm) started to tear. This was a $425 repair. The V-tech O-ring also needed to be replaced at $265. All in all, the regular oil change and 60000 miles service turned in"

"idler arm bushing replaced, left outer strut rod bushing replaced, the front end is clucking again. More front end work is needed. The right front axle has been replaced and the transmission was replaced twice in 4 weeks by the dealer. The torque"

"Had original bad bushings. Took the car to the dealer and they said nothing was wrong yet the problem continued. Got tired and had my own mechanic replaced them with new suspension and problem was resolved. Had to buy new tyres too"

"part failed; replacement cost $1000"

"The bushings on the lower control arms of the front suspension showed cracks and needed to be replaced"

"Creaking noises needed to be replaced"

"leaking at pump, resolved"

"Power steering hose sprung a leak. Was a bit expensive to repair. Over $300"

"Seals leaked"

"Heard winning noise while driving was out of town and someone topped off power steering fluid. Once back home took to the Honda dealership and they said I had a leak with the power steering pump o-rings. They said it was normal wear and tear but I"

"Power steering leak could cause an engine fire hazard"

"Compared to our Honda Pilot, the Accord started leaking earlier sooner: 60,000 compared to Pilot at 170000"

"Faulty fitting at end of hose resulted in a leak"

"Leakage has been a problem for past 5 years. Has to be addressed frequently"

"noise turning steering wheel. Honda said, in 2 days, I'd have lost control of car. (no warning light, no other indication.)"

"Symptom was the smell of burning oil. Leak had to be repaired twice before it was actually fixed"

"The auto was pulling towards the right and I had to use force to straight the wheel. This issue was daily for 4 days until I could bring it into the dealership. The dealership installed a new power steering rack and column along with necessary hoses."

"power steering bearings made noise changed the unit"

"The bearings on the power steering pump became worn."

"Both the pump and the hoses developed leaks, requiring several separate trips to the repair shop."

"Various leaks that required several service visits. Service manager was nice enough to not charge me for last visit."

"LEAK IN THE STEERING BOX. VERY DISAPPOINTED TO HAVE THIS ISSUE ON A CAR WITH SO FEW MILES"

"Pump making noises during cold weather (less than 50 deg). Replaced pump"

"Winding noise coming from steering pump area"

"Replaced power steering pump"

"Power steering pump had a leak"

"Power steering pump needs replacing"

"pump required replacement"

"Leak in power steering fluid due to improper installation of tensioner. Ironic, catalytic converter went bad at same time"

"Replaced pump"

"Just had the Power Steering Pump replaced last week."

"Had to be replaced $400.00!"

"$2000 to repair leaky power steering system"

"I went in to a local Honda dealer for routine servicing. The problem was discovered and the power steering pump and hoses were replaced. I had not felt any difference in the power steering prior to that visit."

"Leak at o-ring. Other leaks discovered and power steering pump failing. Replaced before failure"

"Old age replacement, preventive- no signs just 2 small leaks"

"Bad road conditions, chuck holes took out one, two were replaced."

"Front struts were leaking. replaced Jan.2020"

"Worn struts cupped the tires resulting in noticeable road noise"

"Loose knocking in passenger front for 2 years. Finally dealer identified as a leaking strut. Others OK, only replaced the one"

"Replaced 4 struts, back and front"

"Had to replace front suspensions due to bad original bushings which caused steering vibration, uneven tire wear"

"Leaking rear strut. Replaced in pairs (both) and realigned"

"right rear strut brock"

"one strut leaked fluid, requiring replacement"

"Both struts had to be replaced due to damage caused by normal driving on paved roads in a city. Primary damage caused by repeated driving over a bridge where the approach road sank some two inches below the bridge itself. Bridge has now been repaired."

"part failed"

"Had to replace the shocks and struts."

"Had to replace all four struts and lower arm control of the rack and pinion. I don't know the specific cause"

"The front and back shocks/struts were written our and had to be replaced"

"Rack and pinion had to be replaced twice within about 12 months. Power steering pump also needed replacement. It was leaking."

"There was a squeaking sound that concerned me. I did have the problem looked at before it interfered with driving. It did take several service visits to correct all the problems."

"The car developed a "clicking' noise coming from the steering column. It turned out to be a mid ship bearing that was worn. I had to replace the steering shaft for 800.00 to correct."

"The rack and pinion had a leak that needed to be repaired. The boot and rack and pinion were replaced with new ones."

"2nd time with repair - rack and pinion had a leak at a boot that caused the fluid to the pump to go dry and fail. Had to replace rack and pinion and pump. Appears to be a common problem"

"Unable to Steer automobile"

"The steering linkage in the column was replaced"

"Rack and pinion replaced due to leaking seals"

"Replace rack and pinion"

"whiny noise....was told to replace"

"Defect in design or components requiring entire steering system replacement. Dealer said without replacement the system would have failed completely"

"Told by dealer PS fluid was leaking, needed new rack and pinion for $1500. Went to independent garage, they verified a small leak and suggested I drive it for a while and then bring it back in. Have not gone back in yet"

"The steering wheel vibrates most of the time since new. It get worse when the tires are rotated. The car pulls to the right even after the wheel alignment was done. Feels jerky"

"Steering wheel vibrates when speeding up or slowing down around 60 - 70 mph; then it stabilizes. Honda Service has checked, adjusted, and rechecked at least 3 times; thought fixed but issue returns"

"Front end vibration was bothersome and they changed all the brakes and did alignment first and then said maybe I would need new wheels and tires"

"This was an ongoing issue since the car was new. Tried multiple new tires and balancing. Air pressure will not stay up in tires. I think the alloy rims are faulty or poorly engineered."

"Previous to the vibration the steering was smooth. The vibration led me to have it checked out at which point I was told the system needed to be replaced or it would have failed during operation"

"all these areas were starting to wear but the struts were in need of replacement more than the others."

"They were quite worn so I had both replaced. That took care of the uneven tire wear"

"control arm bushings were worn and alignment was out"

"The tires and wheels on the Accord have never been balanced correctly since the car was new. Tried multiple brands of tires from various retailers. I believe the alloy wheels are either defective or poorly engineered."

"Wheel bearing on the left front gradually became very noisy. Over about 3-4 months the noise became worse until the problem was identified"

"Had to replace wheel bearings on the front"

"Excessive noise and a "never seen before" problem from experienced Honda Service Mgr"

"front wheel brg. started grinding after new tires. Thought it was tire related. Took a while to isolate"

"Heard a noise coming from the front left wheel. Put up with the noise for 8 months, finally decided I'd better get it fixed. No problems other than having to replace it"

"We have had AC problems with this car for 5 years or more. The compressor, evaporator and condenser were replaced last year by the dealer. The AC still did not work. The dealer looked at the car two additional times and said they found a bad seal and which they replaced. The AC still did not get cold, only cool on a mild day. This year no AC, the compressor does not cycle. Recharged the system and it only gets cool."

"ac/compressor had to be repaired/replaced multiple times before it was finally repaired correctly"

"A/C compressor stopped working and needed to be replaced"

"The A/C compressor had to be replaced along with the condenser and any other associated parts at the cost of about $900."

"Temperature control switch broke. Diagnosis and repair required two days and cost $750"

"catastrophic failure of a/c system in the compreeor unit including electrical. it now blows hot air"

"With in one month of each other first the condenser had to be replaced and then the compressor locked up and had to be replaced"

"Just happened yesterday, car just blows hot air, have to go to garage to see problem"

"Had a complete a/c failure other than the fan. Cost over $1700.00 to replace entire system!"

"The compressor was replaced"

"Air conditioning keeps going on and off. Dealer said it was compressor and independent auto repair mechanic said it is sensor in dash"

"Found relay for compressor had burned out and compressor would not work. May have been clutch but seemed pointless to try that so just replaced the entire unit"

"A/C compressor failed. Replaced under extended warranty"

"Leaks at low & hi pressure hoses and at AC compressor seal. Required replacement of AC compressor"

"Suddenly stopped producing cooled air on 93 degree day due to compressor failure which cost over $1000 to repair"

"Ac inoperative. Took it to dealer several and they finally replaced the compressor and two other AC parts but it still does not cool the car to satisfaction. It is very warm on hot das. Spent over $2300 for repair. The dealer says it throws cool air but only on days that are 80 degrees or below"

"ran out of freon"

"stopped working...had to be replaced"

"Compressor went out last week; I was able to replace it myself"

"CLUTCH FAILED"

"ac compressor broke and had to be replaced"

"Compressor component needed replacement $1000"

"intermittent problem but twice when have taken to dealer has worked fine so problem not identified"

"I have owned 5 Honda vehicles: 3 Accords, 1 Prelude, 1 civics. With the exception of the Prelude, all others had weak air conditioning systems. The air was not cold and the fans were weak"

"Freon leak - very hard to find"

"Belt was stripped needing replacement"

"Broken compressor"

"just the a/c blows hot air"

"For years the heat would come on while it was in A/C mode. And hours later correct itself"

"the temperature was much lower on the drivers side than the passenger side regardless of settings. It took two trips to a Honda service center before they found and fixed the problem"

"One of the controls doors in the system quit working. We only got cold air on passanger side of the vehicle"

"Hot air coming out of passenger vents while AC is operating."

"AC seems to fail in the summer it would blow hot air. I can temporarily fix it by lowering the temperature control to the Lo setting (i.e. the setting below 58F) and then it works. Until I start the car again/"

"The automatic climate control has three motors and I had to replace all three within 3 months of each other."

"Cools on drivers side. Only cools on passenger side when I turn thermo to cold."

"A/C was blowing hot hair during ac mode"

"When the A/C is on and the thermostat is set to a normal temperature (e.g. 70), it will not blow cold air. The air it blows is the same temperature as the outside air. In order to cool, the automatic thermostat has to be turned off and the temperature set the to the coldest setting"

"Has never put out enough cold air. Dealer says it is operating correctly"

"The system has a passenger and driver zone. We find it impossible to have the same temperature air enter both. It can actually be hot on one side and cold on the other. Dealers have flushed the system but that has not provided a long term fix. I'm told the next step requires disassembly / assembly of the dash. This costs over a $1,000 and does not include actual repair to the HVAC system"

"Works erratic sometimes"

"The air conditioner blew warm air, then hot air out of the passenger side of the vehicle, periodically. At one time after 10 miles or so the passenger side vent would begin to blow warm air until it got consistently hot, while the driver side continued to be cool. Eventually the air became hot on both the passenger side and the driver side."

"The problem was an issue with the air conditioner. Changing the air filter for inside car helped with this issue"

"No air"

"A/C was stuck on high cool"

"Weak"

"Rarely blows at maximum speed. Speed increases and decreases randomly"

"Condenser and A/C compressor needed to be replaced"

"See previous comment on compressor"

"Condenser was replaced"

"After many years of faithful service my Honda blew an air-condition compressed. The only other failure, ever, was a ten dollar relay related to the air conditioner.This Accord is by far the most reliable vehicle I have ever had the privilege to own."

"Condenser had a leak and needed replacing."

"This part and another small part went bad and the a/c wasn't blowing cold air. The clutch is also going to need to be replaced within the year or so, per dealership"

"No air conditioning & blowing of oil through tail pipe"

"Compressor clutch relay"

"Relay failed intermittently, found during routine A/C service"

"See previous comment about AC."

"Changed with AC problem."

"The heat in this car only works on the passenger side. The dealership has flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant without fixing the problem. The dealership quoted approximately $1800 to replace the heater core which they say will fix the problem."

"Pinched hose cause the leak"

"At the beginning of the warm season (June 2019) I addded an entire can of refrigerant. I added more in September. I have a coolant leak somewhere and I have not taken the car in for repair."

"The car is 12 years old and the AC was not cooling well. It needed Freon."

"had system recharged twice previously for poor cooling; finally diagnosed leak in compressor"

"A/C did not work properly, had to ad refrigerant and needed to use dye should the leak persist"

"Low on freon"

"leak from heat exchanger in cabin"

"system did not cool enough. I attempted to add coolant myself but wound up going to a repair shop"

"A/C HAD TO BE CHARGED. THE DEALER ADDED MORE SERVICES THAT WERE NOT REALLY NEEDED."

"ongoing problem with leak"

"The A/C has not worked and no one can figure out what is wrong with it."

"A/C was blowing hot air."

"Has to be recharged every year"

"Doesn't cool"