Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“weather stripping becomes unglued around windows”

“Seal on upper front side of windshield caused the car to leak water during raining episodes. Fortunately the Honda dealer was able to remove glass and re-seal and problem was fixed”

“Very loud rattling in the trunk that comes and goes. Not sure what is causing it because I can't find anything that is loose within visual range”

“The interior panels are not tight. The glove box rattles all the time, and the panel between the back seats and trunk rattles when the radio (Stock) is on”

“Rear package shelf behind back seat rattles. I stopped it by stuffing foam rubber between the rear window and the trim”

“Heat shield from exhaust rattles every time car starts”

“Glove box rattles going over minor road vibrations. Very annoying rattle in the rear of the car (behind back seat)”

“Cabin rattle, rear deck behind rear seat”

“There is a rattle in my dashboard that has been there for about a year. Mechanics can only evaluate what the problem is by taking apart my whole dashboard”

“When I drive over any irregular surface there is a rattling noise that comes from the rear. There are a series of rods crossing the width of the trunk. I suspect they are causing this noise, but I have no way of being sure. I do not intend to ride”

“Fan in dashboard has a very high frequency whine. Rear window vibrates with deep bass music”

“One of the front wheel bearings required replacement”

“road noise; fit and finish was much better quality on previously owned Accords”

“back window rattles, and has done so since new”

“Rear sub woofer rattled since I bought it new”

“driver door started sounding hollow or 'tinny' insulation is separating”

“There is a rattle under the shelf under the back window”

“Intermittent vibration/rattles from rear "package" panel (below rear window) that comes and goes”

“Back deck rattled on rough roads”

“Intermittent and mild emanating from dash area and other body locations while driving; unknown source; started within one year of purchase. Brakes squeal intermittently; mechanics try to fix with no success. Orig brakes replaced, same problem”

“Rear window deck squeeks and bass speaker in deck rattles at any signficant volume level”

“Something with the rear window deck. I can't figure out how to stop it”

“rattle in rear deck, behind back seats. Impossible to find without major dismantling”

“Cabin noise is very loud and interior rattles also”

“Can't seem to locate where the squeak is coming from, but is coming from the back”

“TPMS system gets triggered when weather gets cold; needing to repeatedly add air to Michelin Pilot tires”

“Brakes squeak loudly when first driving”

“Had to have deck by rear window tightened”

“The back deck rattles. Also rear wheel bearing went out at 40,000 miles”

“wind noises around front windows , could not find an actual leak but noise at highway speeds were always there”

“When I go over 65 mph the noise is strong that the radio music is impossible to enjoy no matter how loud you make the volume”

“wind noise too loud”

“There is a sweaking noise by the back window that the dealer cannot seam to fix”

“dealer does not knmow how to fix it”

“One of the loudest vehicles I've had - there is very little sound insulation in this vehicle”

“Has had more wind noise than I believe it should ahve had from beginning. Seems to be getting worse”

“The wind noise in the accord is unbelievable. When i am on the speaker phone - i have to yell just so I'm heard. in fact, i always get people saying, are your windows down there is so much noise”

“noisest car i have ever owned....have been in full size SUVs that are quiter. cant talk or use stereo”

“The car is very noisy despite being the most expensive Accord. Honda designed this model with much too much emphasis on cost reduction”

“Can not open back windows because of a pulsating sound which becomes louder and more forceful as the speed of the car increases”

“Piston rings were allowing oil usage to be excessive. A recall for the problem, caused Honda to replace all of the rings”

“both cams and four followers were bad. cams were not hardened correctly, which in turn caused the followers to fail”

“2008-10 Accord 4 cyclinder engines have a documented excessive oil consumption issue. After verification of consumption, the dealer stated the piston rings had to be replaced and after six months, Honda agreed to share cost. Very disappointed in car”

“Honda had to replace rings but was fully cover”

“Honda replaced pistons and rings due to oil consumption. It was done on a recall. I complained about oil consumption for years which Honda said was normal. Finally they did the recall. No oil consumption now. They resolved the issue”

“This was a problem fixed by Honda. 3 of the 6 cylinders turn off at certain interstate speeds to increase fuel economy. One of the cylinders is prone to misfire (caused by this feature) and eventually caused more oil consumption because of damaged rings. Honda replaced all three sets of rings on the side that turns off at higher speeds. I now PUSH the car a little more to keep the engine "Blown out"”

“Engine had factory defect. Piston rings installed incorrectly. Dealer kept saying injectors were fowling. Refused to repair correctly. There was a lawsuit about it and warranty was extended but they still would not fix it. The last Honda I will ever buy”

“Honda dealership replaced piston rings/seals due to recall. I did have all the paperwork of past oil changes, receipts for extra oil bought between oil changes, etc. which showed I was having a problem. Dealership was at first hesitant insisting there was a not a problem. I was able to prove with paperwork their was a problem”

“The engine block was cracked and the entire engine/block had to be replaced. Fortunately all was covered by warranty”

“Burning oil rebuilt under warranty”

“Excessive oil consumption. Repair was covered by Honda”

“Intake valve on cylinder 3 was cracked”

“Burning oil excessively. Known problem. Honda covered under warranty”

“I own a hybrid and the engine went out. Because it was under warranty Honda replaced it for me”

“Engine has always burned oil 1qt/5000mi with no change after "recall" and computer "reprogram". Check engine light came on, dealership stated timing chain stretched due to running low on oil, extensive $1100+ repair”

“Engine was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles, and fouling the spark plugs, causing misfire. The piston rings and spark plugs were replaced under Honda extended warranty”

“Excessive oil USge, quart or more per tank. Not visible leakage. Plugs . Dealer indicates there could be a problem in cylinders. Goggle search shows other 4cyl models having problem. Over 4k est. cost to repair. 6cyl was recalled. Never buy agai”

“Had to replace rings on two pistons. Rings were leaking oil and were burning about a litre of oil every 10000 km. Honda dealer was very slow in fixing the problem. We had to to take it back several times before it was fixed properly”

“At 135,000 miles, after having my timing belt changed on schedule at 100000 mile service, my timing belt blew and destroyed the engine. I had all my service done at Honda dealer and they refused to assist. The V-6 engines are hard to locate and cost”

“Oil consumption problems. Burned oil so bad it would be gone in a normal oil change interval. Cylinder management system was junk! Ends of spark plugs eroded away due to oil consumption. Had to replace engine and Honda didn't want to take responsibil”

“Oil drained rapidly and as a result we had to replace the engine. There was a successful class-action lawsuit for the V6 engine for this exact same issue, but they would not include ours in the settlement or replace our engine”

“Car was using excessive oil. Gasket replacement and new piston rings solved the problem”

“burning oil; Piston rings need to be replaced. apparetnly this is a known problem with V-tech engine”

“Timing belt failed after 40000 miles. Blew engine. Should have lasted 60000 + miles. I have had more problems with this engine than any other car I have ever owned”

“At routine service, dealer said timing belt needed replacement, so I did it”

“Car was running rough”

“Timing belt had to be replaced after 78000 miles. I consider that a very poor reliability problem, never happened in any car I ever owned except this one”

“Car was making a grinding noise on initial startup. Once the engine was warm, the noise would go away. This is a known problem with the VTEC actuator. I learned of this through research and got a one time discount from Honda”

“Timing Chain Slipped off - caused a spring to pop off in engine”

“Needed a new timing belt 20000 miles before the recommended milage”

“When doing warranty work to replace piston rings and pistons, dealers noted timing chain and guides were worn and recommended replacing”

“see last comments. timing belt blew and destroyed my engine. They said it was "shredded" despite having been changed at 100000 mile service as recommended by Honda”

“The VTC Actuator for timing chain drains of oil when engine is off and grinds for 3 seconds on a cold engine start. There is a technical service bulletin that is on review/hold by Honda so they will not fix the problem until TSB comes off hold”

“Carpeting has come loose/unattached along the sides of the passenger compartment. Center console covering has completely torn loose”

“Leather on center arm wrest is furrowed. Carpet under front passenger side door outside of vinyl trim”

“Interior trim started separating after 2 years new. Carpet pulls out of door jam. Leather seats I have had to replce sections over the years”

“Arm rest, door panels, center console arm rest is coming apart”

“Very think vinyl wears through quickly. Replaced the console cover already. Driver door handle is worn through to the padding”

“All kinds of problems with interior arm rests deteriorating”

“leather on top of center condole arm rest detached and torn under elbow pressure”

“headliner and "leather" trim would bubble and fall down”

“The console upholstery fell apart”

“Paint is faded & it cracked in the front, rear, and on the trim”

“The pain been peeling in multiple spots. started around therear window. Is now in spots (Large & Small) all over the car. Honda won't do anything about it”

“Clear coat chalking hood, top, truck, Honda agreed to repainted the car this year. Blue in color”

“The paint on my rear spoiler (from the factor, not after market) has started to paint. Since I get my car waxed at least once a year, I feel that this shouldn't happen”

“Paint has been a problem on this car since it was new. Had to have the hood repainted because the paint had chipped so bad and Honda would not cover. Paint chips and scratches easily on all surfaces of the car”

“peeling around hood area had thickness of paint tested on rest of car and was very thin all over car body done by honda dealership”

“Due to an issue with paint used by Honda we needed a new paint job in 2011”

“Paint is alligatoring on hood”

“I front of the car got some scraps in 2010 (our fault) but since that time the paint on the front and and front quarter panels has been peeling”

“Front bumper fading & peeling”

“vehicle is midnight blue, has many small scratches that can't be waxed out, not sure what caused these. They are noticeable as they appear white”

“Front end paint is not resilient. Paint missing from bug splatter and small rocks hitting front end through normal wear and tear”

“Paint Finish is to soft, chips and cracks very easily”

“Rust appeared on rear fender”

“Rust developed around both rear wheel wells. Had to replace both quarter panels”

“Rear, passenger wing, around fuel cap and all around the wheel well on out side edge between interior and exterior of the wheel well. That is a big desapointment, long time since I've seen this on a car that age”

“Typical rust in rear driver side wheel well between two piece of spot welded sheet metal from the factory. It likely was rusting before the warranted was up but was hard to spot”

“We already had car painted 4 years ago for pealing, bubbling and wearing of paint and now we have rust and pealing again”

“Rust at driver's side rear wheel well. Honda denies any responsibility for the rust”

“The accord is rusting around both rear wheel wells and starting to rust around the front wheel wells as well... kind of upsetting”

“A really disappointing amount of body rust which is not related to damage”

“A small round spot 2 centimetre diameter on back fender is rusting through the paint”

“Rust developing in the rear wheel well”

“There was a rust bubble under the paint when I bought the car (on the hood) most likely from dirt introduced during painting. I had the hood sanded and repainted and now a year later it is back”

“I had a majorelectrical failure where first the airbag light came on and then the entire electrical panel melted, filling the cabin with the smell of burning plastic and metal”

“While driving 65mph on highway, without warning, car just shut off, lights turned off, engine stopped, dashboard went dark, and car was just coasting. Dealership said fuse 38232-TA0-A01 blew but didn't know what caused it or if it will happen again”

“Needed to replace one headlight”

“The bulb burned out”

“Licence plate light is out and it appears to be hard to replace either by me or the mechanic”

“Extremely difficult to change bulbs in taillights and headlights. Interior light fixture above rearview mirror pops out of frame and left light no longer works”

“Interior lights don't work. I thought it was just the bulb, but I was told by the dealership that I needed to replace the entire light housing at a cost of several hundred dollars”

“Front interior lights stopped functioning both when being turned on manually as well when being turned on automatically by opening a door”

“I have had electrical problems with this car in the past. The newest problem is that the interior lights stopped working”

“Dashboard lights for ventilation sysem, radio controls burned out and shop wants $500 to dismantle dashboard to change all the lights. Decided to forego repair and operate in the blind when using car at night”

“Frequently dash lights would go out, when replaced, would go out again”

“Interior lights in front driver's and passenger side not working”

“Ballast needs to be replaced”

“The keys had to be reprogrammed and the window controls malfunctioned within a couple of months let me say that this is when the car was 8 years old.,”

“The motor that controls the lock/unlock of the driver's door failed. I had to use a manual key to enter/unlock the vehicle”

“The locks have never worked properly. Honda says there is no problem. The battery in the key fob has been changed numerous times. The door locks do not open automatically when the engine is turned off. They sometimes lock automatically only after I have been driving for a time, even if I have gotten up to hi way speeds. The lights in the door rests which indicate window control and side mirror controls blink on and off at night. The other night the lights on the radio and air conditioner part o”

“Neither of the car's keys work anymore. Replacing them is way too expensive”

“The remote works maybe 10% of the time”

“Warning lite came on. It was the spare tire which they didn't tell which trier”

“Wouldn't go off and dealer couldn't figure it out. Cost me $200 just to look at it which I passed on. Costco fixes it for $50”

“Needed to replace one tire valve & sensor”

“Frequently malfunctions”

“Tire pressure monitor lights will not turn off after all tire repairs were done. Only way to turn it off is through Honda dealer which would costs a ridiculously high price just to reset the TPS light. Decided to leave it on...presently driving with”

“tire pressure accuracy problem”

“The light stays on and have to return to dealer to fix it !”

“Tire pressure sensor kept coming on. Faulty sensor”

“Backup sensors failed causing a warning whenever car was placed in reverse”

“needed a software upgrade”

“Engine check light was on and car had rough idle. Honda dlr did a software upgrade and replaced plugs under a service bulletin”

“Cam shaft issue”

“Since I bought my 2008 V-6 Accord I have to add oil between oil changes. Now my car requires about 1.5 quarts of oil between oil changes. At first the dealer told me that this was normal, and now both my warranty and extended warranty have expired”

“VCT actuator failure causing knocking noise during engine start”

“Camshaft problem with fourth lobe”

“There is a known issue with the 2008 Accords where they burn/leak oil. Honda did not make a recall for this issue. Instead we were told we must prove to our local dealer that it is an issue. After proof, they will repair it under an a special extended warranty. For proof, they are requiring the car to be brought in every 1000 miles to see how much oil was burned, and their threshold for proof of a problem is 1 qt/1000 miles. We are burning about .9qt/1000. So, we are not eligible for the w”

“Granted the car is old but starting to experience oil leaks in the transmission gasket and the left & right front axle seals”

“currently going through oil leak recall process. car is loosing over a quart of oil every 3000 miles or so”

“Oil pump failure - big expense”

“I followed the "Oil Life" remaining information provided by the computer in determining when to change my oil. This led to the oil gumming up the piston rings around the 3rd cylinder. This allowed oil into the combustion chamber and oil fouling the sparkplug. Before understanding it was fouled rings, I had them change the sparkplug and coil, but the issue resurfaced. Chnaged the oil a couple of time within 1,500 miles and the problem went away. Now I ignore the computer and change the oil ever”

“Brake fluid leaks and engine oil leaks”

“The car burns oil and has for years. There's no leak, and there's no drip, but you have to refill the oil at least once in between oil changes. We have had it in multiple times to try to address this, and it has never been fixed”

“Vtec valve bank 2 leak caused alternator to go bad”

“Rear engine seal was leaking. Only shows up when car is running”

“Engine is burning a lot of oil. We have to continually fill up the oil. Honda knows it is a common problem in several of their cars. They want us to bring it into a dealership every 1000 miles and have it checked out We went 1100 miles on a checkup and they want us to start the process over”

“High loss of oil in three month period. Received notification from Honda, who fixed problem at o cost to me”

“engine burned oil. Engine was rebuilt in 2012. It is now burning oil again. H0nda says it is normal. If I knew I would have this problem and honda would not repair it, I would never buy a Honda”

“Just starting dripping a little oil on the driveway, May 2015”

“Your choices are not complete. The issue I had was the chronic unfixable oil consumption issue that many have had with Honda V6 engines and led to the class action lawsuit”

“very small leak in the last 6 months”

“The 2008 Honda Accord burns oil. Every 1000 miles it burns a quart of oil”

“Oil Consumption Problems, engine burning excessive amounts of motor oil. There is a settlement for V6 engine, but my I4 engine is doing the same thing. Went to dealer to do a test and no problem was found. But my engine is loosing excessive amount of”

“After routine oil change, oil was low and has needed constant refilling”

“All 4 engine mounts broke and had to be replaced”

“Alternator had to be replaced at 75,000 miles. I think this is premature failure”

“Alternator failed at 110000 miles. Was replaced”

“Alternator started making noise”

“Needed to be replaced”

“It did not last as long a I thought it should”

“Just needed new battery”

“Spark plug fouling due to excessive oil entering cylinder combustion chamber. At least 2 coil packs went bad. But, worst of all the front camshaft went bad, lobe surface damage causing a knocking sound, and had to be replaced to the tune of $1200. These engines start going bad some where north of 120,000 miles or so. They start using oil to the tune of a quart every 1000 miles, cam shafts go bad, rings need replacing. It's a bad design. This is the first year of this engine in the Accord that ru”

“Misfire caused by cylinders not being used while cruising on interstate. (It uses 3 of the 6 cylinders while under light load) Cylinders not used foul the plug causing increased oil use. Company replaced rings on three cylinders. Works fine now”

“This was the second time since owning this car that I have had to replace the spark plugs”

“The spark plugs were fouled with carbon deposits which caused bumpy acceleration when some cylinders failed to fire. Honda had a service bulletin on this, so there was no charge for the repair”

“Oil getting by the rings on the two pistons fouled the plugs”

“Starter completely failed at mile 141000 and car had to be towed to dealership”

“I had to replace the starter of my 4 cylinder engine Accord at ~102,000 miles”

“I experienced intermittent problems where the engine wouldn't turn over, so I assumed there was a low battery charge issue. The issue suddenly became a no start at all issue, no engine turning over at all. Honda dealer replaced the starter”

“Starter occasionally failed to turn over when first started. Simply needed replacement”

“Starter internal solenoid plunger failed”

“Starter squeals in sub-freezing temperatures on startup. Issue not addressed in past 12 months”

“Intermittent issue, car wouldn't start, happened 1 every month..replaced started, has not failed since”

“Timing chain kit, VTC actuator cost $900 to repair”

“The ECM was replaced, in an action related to ignition problems. The problem was severe enough for the car to be towed to the repair shop”

“Air con relay failure”

“It would randomly go blank”

“It doesn't work sometime. There was a load pop then no sound coming. Restart the car normally fix the issue”

“Electrical short in receiver. $900 to $1200 to fix. I had installed a aftermarket receiver instead for less with better functionality and $400 less”

“changes channels on its own”

“poor reception”

“The radio has not worked in some time. I have taken it to the dealer twice to have it fix. The dealer was not able to repair the radio nor say exactly what is wrong. The problem began after having a battery replaced”

“Radio/CD Player no longer function”

“Radio stopped after being hit with lumber shifting”

“Satellite radio keeps freezing up on me. It's done it since it was new, but never seems to do it for the dealer”

“All speakers on right side quit working, is not an issue of the manual balance settings”

“The sound system has some sort of problem with the wiring. It occurs while using the radio, cd player, or usb device. There will be a loud knocking. It feels like the car backfired, and then the sound just stops. It will return, sometimes within a few minutes, other times a few days. We tried to have it repaired but they said it wouldn't be worth it and we should just have a new aftermarket system installed”

“Speaker on right front is intermitent”

“Access to GPS is not available 2/3 of the time. Clicking the button does not bring up GPS”

“Computer system can no longer read the DVD disk with the maps on it. The problem is NOT with the DVD itself. Cost to replace is like $800 for essentially a new DVD drive”

“Steering wheel made clicking noise, pronounced noise. Dealer repair without charge. Low mileage on car and there is a "history" of this problem. I was very satisfied with Honda of America and the dealer. Dealer also replaced a key as the paint had wo”

“Its very loud but when it connects to the person, it's very low. At times Voice control commands doesn't connect”

“judder between 35 and 45 mph”

“In October of 2016 while at a Red Light waiting to make a right turn I accelerated and all I heard was a "winding noise with a bit of grinding". We pushed the car into the gas stations and called my "shady tree" mechanic. He put the car in reverse and it was fine, then in drive and it was fine. However again while approaching his shop, same thing happened he was in a stop position and when attempted to turn received the same response as I. I personally found a transition for my car with 57,000”

“first, for the last 60,000 miles or so it would kick out of 3 gear randomly, then 2nd,4th,& 6th gears would quit and then come back. Honda said they fixed it but didn't. Then they went out all together. had to have the transmission rebuilt ($3000.00) then the shifter cable broke. I'll never buy another Honda”

“The transmission apparently failed because a quick oil change garage used the wrong transmission fluid”

“At 40,000 miles; I had transmission syncro issues and couldn't shift into 3rd gear. I had to get a replacement transmission and new clutch. The local Honda dealer didn't want to help me at first. I went to an aftermarket transmission shop”

“The dealer determined that the differential in the trans-axle was loose and replaced it with a Honda rebuilt transmission. We took the car to San Francisco 4 weeks later and the torque converted failed starting up Lombard St. and started rolling bac”

“The transmission is going bad just like my civic. Again Honda will not fix it”

“The transmission completely froze and needed to be replaced”

“Dealer has tested the car several times, but show no signs of slippage. I had a friend drive the car and noticed the problem as well. Problems when getting up to highway speeds”

“transmission is going bad, honda will not fix it”

“Automatic Transmission keeps slipping randomly”

“Bad design of transmission cooler fittings into radiator. Washer on fitting rusted, causing it to detach from radiator, emptied transmission fluid while on interstate. Lucky the transmission did not burn up. I had to replace radiator and flush transmission twice. Because of one washer that rusted out”

“Leaking oil seal”

“See previous transaxle leak”

“The engine make a grinding noise when starting. The Starter has already been replaced”

“This car is has a manual transmission. It's very difficult to shift into 3rd gear coming from either 2nd or 4th”

“I'm really ticked off about this one and it will probably impact my decision to buy another Honda. The door locks failed to operate properly. While driving down the road, the locking mechanism would cycle about every 10 seconds to try and lock the doors. Doors would not fully lock. I had the locks replaced on the driver side front and rear doors for about $400. I didn't replace the locks on the passenger side. Will live with locking them manually. What really ticks me off is that Honda has been”

“replaced both axes with 66,000 miles- what a shoke”

“The axle/driveshaft clunks when starting out or reversing”

“transaxle seal leaking. Repaired twice by Honda dealer within 30,000 miles of previous repair”

“Too expensive to repaire”

“The sunroof stopped working reliably, it would move very slowly and sometimes stop before getting to the fully open or closed position”

“passenger window would not operate”

“Muffler wore out after 8 years and became noisy and had to be replaced”