Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“It died in 2013 with 6 disks in it. The first offer to replace was $2,500. After 2 years without it, the dealer told me they could replace it with a reconditioned one for less than $500, which I did. So far, so good”

“the player stopped ejecting the discs. I cannot remove any discs and cannot play any disc still loaded in the player”

“CD player overheated and ceased functioning; 6 CDs are trapped in the unit and cannot be removed without an estimated $800 repair bill”

“Failed at 80000 miles requiring replacement”

“It also died”

“Same as radio”

“Built in system with clock and radio. Cuts in out at random times . No explanation can be found. Too costly too replace”

“CD does not eject sometimes”

“The six-disc changer no longer ejects, accepts or plays discs. It makes a horrid crunching sound instead”

“CD player failed to eject disc, had to be replaced”

“CD became stuck in player”

“CD sticks in player at times”

“The cd player no longer plays cds. I have the 6 disc changer but it no longer successfully loads the discs. It takes them in but does not recognize nor play them”

“jammed”

“The CD player is a five disc player and the disc stuck in it and I could not get it out. My son finally coaxed it out but now I can't use it”

“Jammed cds”

“Display screen was dim within 6 months of the warrantee expiration”

“When I have the exterior lights on the interior dashboard fails to illuminate”

“The back lighting for the radio/cd panel is out. According to what I've been able to find out online, the problem is a $2 fuse that is soldered inside the radio. Making the fix labor intensive (must remove entire center console) and cost prohibitive”

“The screen on the radio is completely dark. Radio still functions as normal”

“Display was dim. Honda had a service bulletin to replace it, but would not honor it because the warranty had recently expired. Replacing this would have been more than $1000”

“THe system freezes and reboots. I'm not able to use the navigation system, change the clock time, re-route airflow on the AC. etc..steering wheel controls and voice command do not work when the screen freezes up..I was quoted $2K to replace the unit, by the dealer”

“Most a/c, radio, vent, heat, and GPS run thru central display on dash. This display has started displaying a error notice to "Check disk" which is the GPS maping disk. No other information can be accessed due to GPS maping disk failure to load”

“Display screen will not light up,blank screen”

“display died and had to get a new screen”

“The display for the radio, the clock and the climate control is completely blank and never works”

“clock, radio screen didn't display”

“console screen backlight appears to be burne out; repair bill >$250 anticipated at dealer; using a flashlight, I can distinguish radio stations, sufficient to limp along until we trade in the car”

“the screen which shows time, radio, and climate control data went blank. I was charged over $300 to replace a circuit board”

“Apparent short makes use of the screen impractical. Effects GPS mainly, but also other controls that depend, partially, on the display”

“The radio reception is fine. We have remembered the preset stations since the display is always dark (it is very faint in a few peculiar lighting situations). The CD player is fine as long as you remember the commands and settings. The clock does not”

“In the year 2014 the display screen went blank. My research revealed this problem is common and is the result of failure (burn-out) of a surface-mount fuse. American Honda issued a service bulletin regarding this problem”

“The blank display screen was a problem on the 2004 and warranty was extended to 100,000 miles. It failed at 110,000 miles. I wrote Honda and they installed a new display screen and charged me $25”

“Radio display back light is out. the radio and climate controls still work”

“Display screen is blank so one cannot see AC mode, etc.Cost of repair/replacement $800.00 so no repair planned. Honda refused to help out with cost”

“The radio periodically power cycles itself, and turns on and off randomly”

“Radio CD player settings are dim and unreadable”

“Just went blank and can not see at all - no clock, radio info or climate info”

“Main display panel went blank leaving no climate control or audio display. Dealer estimate $600 +. Found online fix, removed & disassemble unit. Replace soldered component on circuit board. Component cost < $1. My time approx 5 hrs”

“Pull FM Stereo out of Honda and had local Honda dealer ship fix”

“Screen has gone blank”

“The display screen is no longer visible”

“the display goes blank and stops radio and cd player functionality and comes back to life rather randomly”

“This is a design/manufacturing defect. A semiconductor device is improperly specified and failed 2000 miles past the warranty extended to 100K miles. Due to this permanently dark control screen problem, plus A/C issue in my Acura MDX and transmission issue in my Honda Odyssey I will no longer buy Honda cars. My last seven cars had been Hondas and I was given the cold shoulder by their customer service”

“GPS reboots after 30 minutes and then keeps rebooting every few minutes”

“Seems to be problem with the GPS DVD disc player located in the trunk. It makes the in-dash control screen that controls audio and climate controls as well as other functions not work at all”

“DVD updates are very expensive, $140, and new updates do not provide current coverage. Installed a new 2014 update which does not cover roads that were completed in 2010”

“The in-trunk navigation disc player no longer works”

“Stopped working. Too much to fix. using navigation off my smart phone”

“Acts like there is a loose connection. No longer useable. Dealer wants $3000+ to replace it, and they won't repair it. Really unhappy with this issue”

“The GPS system will no longer boot up. This system must boot in order to use the screen to control the climate control system as well as other features”

“DVD player for the Nav system stopped reading the disc, so the system locked up”

“Would not load”

“same as previous”

“The radio stopped working completely about a month ago. I'm paying for satellite radio I can't use, and the display has gone completely blank”

“Works intermitently”

“radio intermittent. some times it works, some times it doesn't. radio makes popping noises sometimes when not working. not working maybe correlates with temperature. I have not yet had this repaired”

“doesn't work very expense to get fix”

“The radio knobs failed to work - the CD Player would not operate - had to use the steering column controls for nearly everything”

“Radio frequently just stops working. Clock also goes out. Will be out for a while and then just come back on”

“The radio was integrated with the display”

“hello, the car radio had a problem of turning it self up and down on its own. we took to dealer, it took a couple of trips but it works perfect now. thank you”

“It just died...completely”

“Radio display went blank”

“No Sound. Repaired at independent shop for approximately $200”

“The radio crackles and shuts itself off or comes on at will. Lately the whole radio including the time shuts off and minutes later will come back on”

“The radio simply stopped outputting sound. Display indicates radio is on and channels can be changed, but no audio. Appears from online research to be common. I think Honda should recall for this issue, not safe to have no access to radio info”

“Radio/cd quit following popping noise. Outage continues for weeks, the suddenly they work again--mostly don't work. Cost for replacement estimated $1700(apparently due to complexity of labor)--too much for a car this age but runs great otherwise. We”

“It has just stopped working. No Radio, no CD... nothing. The speakers have been tested they work fine. One day I drove over a bump, and the radio started to work again... for about 15 minutes, then it stopped”

“Seems to be an electrical problem. Radio works sometimes, or comes on suddenly and then shuts off. Talked to dealer but they say it is with the model of radio. Very expensive to fix or replace so we didn't”

“Radio has intermittent interference from rear window defroster. Also cuts out completely at times”

“Radio cuts out”

“Radio did not work along with the dim display. Honda had a service bulletin to replace this, but would not honor the bulletin because the warranty had recently expired”

“Radio cuts on and off - loud pop when it goes off”

“Stopped working”

“The radio produces loud thuds and does not work”

“circuit board went out partially. Honda wanted $1200. Replaced myself with circuit board from mail order Honda dealer for $99.00”

“Radio suddenly died. Discovered that removing power by disconnecting the battery for 60 seconds will permit the unit to function again for days or weeks. Repair was too costly so I installed an aftermarket device”

“Not functioning. Apparently a common problem. Expensive to fix and replace....and still not 100% fixable”

“The cruise control button would not stay depressed”

“After 10 years compressor failed”

“the a/c harness connector rusted out”

“Internal damage. Had to unplug clutch until I get it replaced”

“For awhile it would stop blowing cold when car was not moving. It finally quit all together, I had to have both the compressor and condenser replaced for around $1,000”

“This is the 2nd air compressor we have had to replace since 2009”

“Had to be replaced”

“it broke”

“Compressor failed; had to be replaced”

“Complete replacement”

“Had to replace a/c system”

“Had to replace compressor and clutch”

“AC only blew cold on passenger side”

“Does not provide cool air. Got it fixed last summer, new coolant. Same problem now”

“It just got old and died”

“Compressor failure resulting in metal contamination throughout entire A/C system. All major components replaced”

“Had to be replaced”

“compressor stoped working.Had it replaced”

“Compressor went out taking ALL the rest of the system - ie. cooler, hoses, evaporator, etc. with it”

“Air conditioner quit working. Shade tree mechanic said the who,e system needed to be replaced, costing $1,400”

“Air blowing out hot and working on estimate to repair”

“A/C compressor failure--had to replace unit”

“It failed and had to be replaced”

“It was very unfortunate it broke”

“Compressor failed”

“Went out during summer”

“AC failed in Summer of 2016. Expensive to replace”

“AC compressor suddenly stopped working, had to be replaced”

“Started shooting warm air from driver's side dashboard vent; service said new compressor was needed”

“The compressor quit working, the system just blew ambient air”

“Replaced compressor eight months prior to needing another compressor replacement. Decided to use different mechanic for second replacement since labor charge was so high on first replacement and first garage was unsure if supplier of first compressor was still in business to honor "lifetime" warranty”

“The a/c compressor went out”

“One side not cooling according to temperature setting. Eventually affecting both sides. Would have to set thermostat down to LO before any cooling would start”

“The air temperature blowing out is warm on the driver side and cold on the passenger side. The dual zone climate control does not work”

“Blowing hot air when on ac. The dealer played with it and got it to blow cold air but no real automatic control available to switch to other auto ac modes”

“THE AC IS BLOWING HOT AIR ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE ONLY AND YOU HAVE TO TURN THE TEMPERATURE ALL THE WAY DOWN TO LOW TO GET IT BLOWING COOL AIR AND THEN YOU CAN TURN IT BACK TO THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE”

“Works well, but is noisy”

“there is an issue with the blend door motor that automatically adjusts for temperature via blending hot and cold. Seems to lock into position on extreme end of travel resulting in very warm air being exhausted from driver side”

“air conditioning stopped”

“Was getting heat when expected cooling air”

“Air conditioning works intermittently”

“No cold air discharged. Refilled refrigerant then problem solved”

“The temperature control system has had problems since I first purchased the car. The main vents would not work and I took the car into the dealership several times, while it was under the 7 year extended (paid extra for) warranty. They always said they found nothing wrong. It It still does work correctly and the problem is intermittent, so it difficult to know if it will work or not when I take it to the dealer service department”

“The climate gates controlling airflow won't open and close properly. If the AC was on cold but the interior needs heat, it blows out cold air until I do the following in sequence: turn it on "Max Cold" then "Max Hot" then back to a temperature such as 72 degrees. The gates then allow heat to flow out of the floor vent as it should. Then I have to do the opposite to get it back to cool air blowing out the dash vents”

“No a/C, sudden failure”

“Intermittent failure to respond to temperature settings, i. e., will blow hot air when it should be cooling. If turn temp setting to "LO", that usually gets it back on track”

“The control button won't switch between feet and face. It stayed on face. My feet were freezing all winter. 6 months after getting it fixed the face vents still blow all the time again but at least heat gets to my feet”

“After 101/2 years blower failed”

“Blowing hot air. This was the 2nd time I had this problem”

“Had to be replaced”

“Fan control needed replacing”

“It has failed three times. All were supposed Honda parts”

“No response when I turn up the fan either on heat or AC function. Will be repaired in a few days, I hope”

“During summer months car overheats in city driving”

“The blower stopped working due to a faulty capacitor”

“been having issues with the blower motor resistor...have replaced twice in 24 months”

“I have loved my Honda because it cools rapidly in hot weather. I know when my AC goes, I will have to buy another car. My AC is on the brink of going, but I can still cool the car by using AUTO and rotating the coolness knob”

“Fan stopped working at 149,000 miles. Found other problems with climate control including refrigerant or sensor failures”

“stopped functioning”

“Condenser developed leak and coolant leaked out. Had to replace and have system recharged”

“Condenser has rusted out and will cost over $400 for the part. I have no idea if the compressor is also damaged”

“It just got old and died”

“Condenser was replaced”

“electronic control system for A/C failed”

“Replaced power relay”

“something electrical on front of compressor.$750.00”

“replaced at the same time”

“it quit working”

“Desicant in the dryer came out a destroyed the entire system. Everything had to be replaced. Now the evaporator makes a whistling noise. ( being diagnosed by dealer)”

“The heat at my feet is weak. It takes so many miles I'm usually at my destination”

“When activated, heat was only supplied to the driver's side of the cabin. The passenger's side of the system blew cold air. My independent mechanic was able to fix the problem”

“Heater not working. Thermostat replaced. This is the 3rd issue with the heat since I bought the car”

“I have to bring the car into the shop to switch between heating and cooling. It requires moving a part, which is partially broken between the settings. It costs $25 for the mechanic to make the switch, or up to $1000 to take the dashboard apart to replace the small broken part”

“Hot water diversion valve failed and required replacement”

“road damage required replacement of a/c components due to leaks”

“leaks the past two years”

“After 300,000 miles and only replacing alternator,starter,headliner,and a couple of batteries. Not really complaining”

“Crack in the hose leaking coolant. Fixed for a little over$300”

“A/C problems began with apparent refrigerant leak progressing to compressor failure necessitating replacement of all major components”

“Losses all refrigerant within 3 day of a full recharge. Replaced o-rings and fill valves neither of which solved the problem. Leak isn't visible, could be inside the compressor or in/around the evaporator under the dash. Due to age and milage, considering replacing the car rather than repairing”

“The air conditioner recently quit working. We are now in the process of diagnosing the problem. Our mechanic has refilled the refrigerant and we will return when the refrigeranthas again dissipated”

“At 273500 KM, driver side ball joint broke while I was backing out of a parking spot. Had to get towed to Honda dealership. Needed ball joint, axle (after market), whl alignment. cost CAD$960”

“both front lower ball joints were replaced”

“Controller Arm and Ball Joints have been a recurring maintenance theme. in the last 12 months I have replaced both the left and the right as well as the lower right ball joint. (bad roads?)”

“Lower ball joint bolt broke during driving. Wheel bent out. Was towed to repair place”

“My Honda Accord was making loud squeaking noise while turning or going over bumps in the roadway”

“Driver side upper ball joint had excess play due to mileage. Replace upper control arm c/w ball joint”

“Slight vibration”

“I took car to shop (not dealer) for front and rear brake job that I knew I needed and was told that I also needed front bushings which with parts and labor was about $500. I was shown where the rubber was cracked and told that this is a common probl”

“bolts rusted. the whole link had to be cut off and replaced”

“Front right bushing failed”

“control rod bushing was broken”

“Car alarm kept going off for no reason - problem found in hood latch”

“See previous answer”

“The power steering fluid leaked and there is noise related to the power steering pump. Similar issue had happened with my 2003 Honda Accord EX sedan. This may be a "recall" item if only the dealer and Honda would do thorough investigation”

“Power steering squeals during cold days”

“Power steering hose leaks recall by Honda”

“Power steering pump failed and had to be replaced”

“Power steering was leaking. Dealer replace "o" rings”

“Power steering line to steering column corroded and leaked”

“Rack and pinion had an increasing leak and it had to be replaced”

“metal pipes rust and leaked, replaced power steering unit”

“Had to replace power steering rack. I replaced power steering fluid on the recommended schedule”

“factory recall”

“Drip under front left of car”

“Started the car in garage and had a loud scary squeal. Backing out and turning the wheel I knew I had a problem with the power steering. I drove the 18 miles, mostly highway, to the dealership. I had to rent a car for a day while they replaced the”

“The power steering pump was replaced three times because of leaks”

“Power steering pump failed”

“in weather below 25 degrees, the power steering is hard to non functioning until the engine warms up”

“WEIRD SOUND THAT WAS FINALLY DIAGNOSED AS PS PUMP”

“The pump had to be replaced because it did not give enough pressure to support steering. Rack and pinion had an increasing leak so it had to be refurbished too”

“Needed a new power steering pump”

“power steering pump leaked and then failed. Had to be replaced”

“Dealer found seeping low pressure power steering pump o-ring”

“Had down time due to recall of power steering pump hose and subsequent replacement of power steering pump, due to noise”

“Unusual rattling noise upon starting that diminished after driving. Some drip underneath car”

“Replaced power steering pump”

“Power steering pump needed to be repaired”

“The power steering unit was leaking and required replacement. Work was done at Honda dealership with a total bill of $1,200”

“Problem started as whining noise from engine compartment. Dealership identified problem as steering pump leak and running low on fluid. Steering then became difficult when started in winter weather. Occurred at 310.000 KM”

“For several years my steering pump has leaked. As a result, when I drive it in cool to colder weather, my Honda makes an embarrassing whine. People turn to look. I know I need a new steering pump but I don't want to spend the money on it”

“Had a fluid leak. Changed some of the hoses”

“Front and rear had to be replaced”

“Replaced struts @ independent garage. Failed within 12 months. Replaced "no charge". Michigan roads”

“Original needed to be replaced”

“the shocks have become too soft affecting handling, will need to replace; was told cost will be about $700 (appears that both Honda & independent repair shop cost about same)”

“All four shocks/struts were replaced due to tire wear”

“One of many "major system" failures L12Mo. Bushings, struts, control arm, sway bar and axels needed replacement. Just short of 200K - radiator leak/replace & battery. Most in line with prior experience of required replace @ ~70/100/200K intervals”

“-pure maintenance / mileage on vehicle”

“This is not really a problem to me other than replacement cost. This was the first time the struts were replaced and the car is 13 years old”

“At 310,000 KM, Honda commenced leaking oil by rear tire. Thought it was brake fluid but dealership noted leaking rear shocks. Had them replace in order to obtain safety certificate required for upcoming sale of auto”

“front struts leaking & bouncy, definitely in need of replacement at about 80k miles. I haven't had to do that to any previous car with similar mileage”

“two incidents of rusted links in the last 12 months with the '04 honda. this one and the bolts listed previously”

“The car now turns like you don't have any power steering fluid in it (the steering fluid is full)”

“drive axle worn”

“Had to replace the rack and pinion steering”

“The rack and pinion steering rack was leaking and whining, and was replaced”

“vibration at highway speeds and when accelerating between 20 - 30 mph”

“Had to replace front axel and bushings”

“Tie rod or sway bar broke on one side with no obvious warning. Noted the replacement parts were significantly heavier construction”

“Anti sway bar tie rods just wore out from high mileage”