Ford F-150 Change Vehicle

"Extended cab rear door latches are broken and rear doors will no longer open"

"Rear window leaks during rainy season while it is parked"

"The driver side door doesnt lock with the automatic lock switch. That started about 5 years ago, it hasn't been resolved"

"Power locks would not always lock with remote."

"Most doors need to be locked manually."

"Right 1/2door will no longer open. Latch no longer works. This is a safety issue as you can't access the jump seat from the right side"

"pasenger door lock"

"Adjustment switch no longer works"

"No longer adjust electrically"

"Driver locking mechanism does not fully engage. Driving down the road the seat belt will release. the integrity of the seat belt during an accident is questionable"

"difficulty opening and closing - becomes jammed/won't latch. Likely due to torqueing of body"

"Rotor and brakes replaced, Passenger window inoperable, paint fading, body rust"

"Power windows operate slowly; require lubrication"

"fuses continually blew out, I went on line and found a blog on the problem with my cruise control and purchased the parts on Amazon. Quick inexpensive fix"

"I was traveling on the freeway when it failed to work. It was fine prior to my gas stop"

"cruise doesn't work driver's window won't work mirror control won't"

"The turn signal controller mounted on the steering column failed and I had it replaced by an after market switch by an independent garage. Now that switch has also failed. I'm not sure about my next repair attempt."

"The lights to hook ups trailer are messed up"

"on occasion the oil pressure gauge and light will go to zero after starting. Sometimes immediately after starting sometimes a few minutes after starting. Then most often within several minutes the gauge and light will begin functioning properly. There has been no damage to the engine as a result of this anomaly. I suspect it is either a poor electrical connection or a failing pressure sending unit"

"induction coil on cylinder head (one cylinder) required replacement; symptoms: engine power loss and distinct laboring under load. The digital odometer works only intermittently."

"The horn turns on randomly and wont stop. Sometimes it's the middle of the night. We had to take out the fuse to stop it which unfortunately also goes to the cruise control"

"Battery died in keyfob. Getting new keyfob & having it programmed was a major ordeal!"

"sensors"

"wore out, became loose"

"Multiple ball joints replaced. One failed twice subsequently and was repaired (twice) under the part warranty"

"Need to replace front ball joints. Front right tire wear was very uneven on the inside of tire"

"Replaced pressure hose at about 65000 miles"

"I believe all these problems are really just due to age of the vehicle and hard use."

"replaced with new"

"Problem was the result of hit and run collision damage while truck was parked on public street. The impact misaligned the frame and ultimately effected the rack and pinion steering mechanism. Thankfully, the problem was resolved."

"Torn boots, worn front end"

"Tie rod dropped while truck was backing out of my driveway. Good thing we weren't on the highway."

"The ball joints and tie rods are probably undersized for this vehicle. I have had to replace the front ball joints about once every other year."

"Gas tank is situated so that you shouldn't run gas to low. Caused the problem."

"Stopped would not run, towed to repair shop"

"fuel pump stopped working"

"Fuel pump failed"

"Replaced fuel pump. Truck would not start, diagnosed as no fuel"

"Truck started acting like it was missing. But fuel pump was not pumping with enough pressure"

"Fuel pump went out and had to be replaced."

"fuel pump failure. Replaced fuel pump"

"Bolts from exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold were loose.. Fortunately I found someone to heat them and they were able to tighten them. If they were not able to tighten them with heat or if they broke off, the repair would have been very expensive. You cannot get a drill to them without removing the engine. You also can't remove the engine without pulling off the cab. One of Ford's better ideas. The Triton engine runs great although you will have coil packs go bad occasionally and some of them are impossible to get to. Just about anything that goes wrong with this model will cost you more than the vehicle is worth."

"There is an exhaust leak between the manifold and exhaust pipe. I'm afraid to fix this because if you break the bolt you have to remove the engine to get it out with an easy out. To remove the engine you have to pull off the whole cab. Extremely poor design."

"third exhaust manifold replaced"

"I had that rattle fixed twice. after that I ignored it"

"Legendary Ford Catalytic convertor head shield rattle. Annoying and fixed with two giant aircraft clamps. I miss it in the morning."

"noise"

"Muffler had a hole. I Had it replaced"

"Rusted and fell off"

"I selected this because I've had an issue where a spark plug was thrown and the expensive fix including having to install a sleeve into the spark plug hole, apparently a very common problem caused by insufficient number of threads in the aluminum head for the spark plug to remain secured. In addition, I had a crack in the plastic intake manifold (not a category represented on this survey) which was very expensive to fix. The intake manifold crack caused a lot of wasted time and money due to ch"

"Spark plug shot out of cylinder head"

"Engine compression and other issues started to happen. Brought it to a trusted mechanic who recommended the engine being redone."

"engine threw a rod, could not get a re-build so had a new crate engine installed."

"Leaking intake manifold"

"Cracked intake manifold gasket"

"The head gasket was leaking and needed to be replaced."

"Coolant leak on top of engine block. Cost about $400 to fix"

"Rocker arms rusted so bad that it is hard hearing the radio"

"I park this vehicle outside all of the time. When it rained I would experience water dripping from the grab handle on the front windshield support. The Ford dealer replaced the moon roof telling me that the seal was probable the cause of the leak. That repair worked for one winter. But the leak returned in the second winter. I removed the both grab handles and put plumbers tape on the both screws on each handle and the problem seems to be solved. No leaks for the past two winters."

"Passenger window came out of mechanism and would not stay up/closed"

"255,000 old rubber bushings squeak. Put cotton in your ears"

"Front end suspension"

"Considerable air noise around driver window, especially on a windy day."

"sticking"

"leaking seals"

"Both rear calipers would not release and thus were causing friction and heat on drums and wheels. Replaced them both within a month of each other as it happened to each a month apart"

"parking brake failed completely causing irreparable damage to rear brake rotors. There was absolutely no prior indication of the parking brake failure."

"Worn front brakes and then a manufacture defect in the newnrotor resulting in further brake failure"

"Parking brake catastrophic failure damaged the rear brake rotors to the extent that they could not be resurfaced."

"Antifreeze leaking out of intake manifold. Had to be replaced"

"Heater core became clogged"

"radiator was rotted out and developed a bad leak. Had it replaced."

"thermostat stuck, had to be replaced"

"have oil leak on left side of engine. Replacing valve cover gaskets only stopped leaking temporarily"

"pan gasket leaks, very expensive to repair must drop engine"

"The oil pan gasket was leaking and needed to be replaced."

"needed new head gasget and front driveshaft seal"

"Transmission went out at about 95000 miles."