Ford F-150 Change Vehicle

"Poorly design rear bumper stick out too far and get sandblasted from the rear tires even with factory splash gaurds"

"Areas on the truck were repainted under warranty the first time and then we were required to pay $700 on the second reprinting. Not impressed with Ford service with regards to our issues"

"Peeling paint on both rear fenders is directly associated with rust emerging beneath the paint."

"I have noticed rust on the rear bumper. Not serious."

"It's a Ford truck. Lower rocker panels on both sides completly rusted out. You could see the rust coming thru when it was under rust warranty. But Ford would not do anything unless there was a hole thru the body. A couple months after the warranty, there was holes thru the body. Cost me around $3000 to get both sides fixed."

"cab corners, bed box and wheel wells rusting out, $1400 to coat with rhino-lining-type generic product at body shop"

"below the doors are large holes from rust, more rust coming"

"Rocker panels totally rusted. Truck spent a lot of time un driven And in garage. Also various rust spots ariund windshield."

"rusting around wheel housings"

"running boards under doors are rusting out, will have to repair or replace"

"The rust occurred underneath the vehicle due to stone chips and salt accumulation. It is difficult to keep the area clean, especially in the winter."

"Rust has formed on door openings and .screws attaching support bar to rear supercab door. Rust also seen in pickup truck bed"

"Cab, lower rear, both sides, paint peel with rust."

"Initially the front bumper needed to be replaced because of rust through from the back side out. Then the rear passenger side half bumper rusted and required sanding and re-painting. Now the driver's side rear bumper is also rusting. Very poor quality bumper metal. The rest of the truck still appears new."

"Paint started to bubble up on passenger side rear wheel well and rust is apparent along entire width of the bottom of the tailgate."

"Because of the paint bubbles and peeling rust became an issue"

"Chrome on one running board blistered"

"Several painted areas on the front grill and rear bumper have begun to bubble and rust. I consider this unacceptable on a truck that is less than five years old"

"Front bumper rusting from inside out. Perfect paint started bubbling with large patches eventually falling out. Ford wouldn't warrantee it unless it rusted thru"

"small areas of rust"

"The vehicle is showing rust on both rear fender wells, both rocker panels, the tailgate, the front, lower corner of the bed (driver's side) and the front bumper."

"Rocker panels, door threshold and cab corners have all been repaired or replaced because of rust. All was covered by the Ford rust proof warranty I purchased when I bought the truck."

"Bought from dealer after previous lease of it by another. Almost immediately discovered bubbling paint and rust on bumpers. Had bumpers removed, repainted, and reinstalled but rust recurred and they look bad. Need replacements soon. Doubt Ford will help. Rear cab corners and rear fenders also rusting through."

"Rear corners of the cab have completely rusted through"

"Rust around the 2 rear tire wells, looks like water gets inside the wells and rust on the outside"

"Paint bubbling around rear fenderwalls"

"bottom of doors and rocker panels are rusting"

"Wheel hub IWE grinding."

"The output shaft speed sensor in the auto transmission failed. This resulted in a sudden downshift into 1st gear while descending a steep curving hill from our mountain home. The rear wheel locked up causing a slide and partial spin. No damage occurred, I reset the fault indicator and continued carefully."

"Rear end began howling while on vacation. We made it to the dealership in Marysville, WA on a Friday afternoon . It was diagnosed that afternoon. Monday teardown and order parts. Picked up the truck Wednesday."

"The bearings needed to be replaced in the rear differential. Grinding noise was getting worse."

"Pinion drive seal leak at the rear differential"

"2nd failure in the rear end. Ford fixed it once under warranty at ~40k, miles, Ford told me to drop dead at 85K miles. I drove it till 110k when it was too noisy to trust, had it rebuilt privately"

"Initially experienced looseness in the drive train multiple times, then had a bearing failure and major components (pinion gear, etc.) had to be replaced. Was repaired under warranty"

"seeping from pinion cover, corrected at next service"

"The front differential being a 4 wheel drive vehicle, had problems. A bearing had gone bad and shelled itself and the entire differential had to be drained and all parts replaced due to metal shavings inside ruining all other moveable parts. Ford did repair this front differential under warranty."

"Grinding noise - had to have the bearings replaced"

"Kept feeling "slack" in the drive train when taking off from or coming to a dead stop. Returned to dealer multiple times and they performed repairs per service bulletins but the problem recurred until I had the differential failure"

"Front vibrates even though have had new tires. Dealer said it was tires....tire people said it was the front end"

"A worn center driveshaft bushing started making thunk noise. The truck is designed such that the whole drive shaft must be replaced instead of just the bushing - very expensive."

"Rear driveshaft completely seized. Mechanics thought maybe the u-joints weren't checked and had run out of fluid. This occured on the highway. The driveshaft seized, fell off completely onto the road, and blew the transfer case up, destroyed differential and the rear axle. The repair was upwards of $8,000.00 for all the damage caused."

"Problems with the slip yolk."

"Fan speed control switch only works in high position."

"The rear window defrost circuit failed and it was because of the connectors in the sliding rear window . Ford would not warranty this item on it's own extended warranty. It cost me $800.00 for a new rear window because that's the only way to fix it they say. It completes the circuit. It was the only to get the heated mirrors and rear defroster working again. Very upset that it was not covered."

"With 4 yrs. and 96,000 kms. On truck computer failed and left me stranded. Truck towed to closet dealership. After 1-1/2 days they told me I needed new computer, not covered under warranty. Result was me out of pocket over $1000.00"

"The whole climate system stopped functioning."

"After driving for several miles the speedomater died. The fix was somewhere in the transmission. Fixed by having to drop the transmission with a cost of $900."

"The read window defogger quit operating for the third time. Keeps blowing fuses for trailer lights/brakes."

"Service Advance Trac light came on. Called Dealer service dept for appt. Please note the truck had been in their shop the week before because of a sensor in the steering column($1,222)check engine light came on. A week later Service Advanced Track came on. 8 days later I got the truck back and another bill this time for $1604.00. 11 days in the shop and $2,828 later I'm not too happy."

"Pulsing with wheel spin"

"Same, wheel sensor went out, left front"

"Occasionally the service advancetrac alarm goes off and then my traction control indicator light comes on and often my signal light will no longer stay on. Some dealership mechanic told me this had to do with a steering column position indicator fault that is very expensive to fix not worth it. This problem usually clears itself the same day and then I don't have any trouble for a week some. Just glitchy and annoying"

"Traction control quit working. Created for dangerous driving on wet roads"

"The truck shifted extremely hard at various times for no apparent reason."

"Stopped providing lines on the camera. Camera system had failed, expensive to fix"

"Have had problems with the sync system and display from the beginning. Dealer worked on it twice and still did not repair it properly"

"Display stopped working"

"When we first purchased it new the nav and sound system would just go blank. It hasn't happened for a while"

"The mp3 interface does not work well at all. I have to manually change the source on the aux from line in to mp3. It loose the location of music and audiobooks often. Has trouble recognizing playlist. It has gotten so bad that I now burn mp3 cds to listen to audiobooks. I did a software upgrade once did not solve any problems. My truck is now to old to have upgrades. You cannot fast forward easily or at all. It is dangerous when you are driving and the software loose its place and you have to pull over to find where you were in the audio book. The speakers drop in and out of stereo. And upon occasion I have to resync my phone. If Ford still used a DIN type installation instead of the all in one console, I would have removed the radio the moment I bought the truck. The rest of the truck is fine. Showing normal wear and tear. But the sound system is a major irritation."

"I feel like it’s extremely difficult to interface cell, iPad, etc. to the ford SYNC electronics in vehicle."

"Unable to connect a smart phone"

"The phone interface on 2012 Ford F-150 is difficult to use. In fact I’ve quit using it totally."

"The Sync, radio, and CD all stopped working at the same time. Differ Ford fixed the problem by replacing the ACM module. Approximately $650 repair. The problem occurred about 2 months ago and was repaired in about 4 days time (parts procurement delay)."

"it does not work."

"Upgraded to iPhone 7 and learned Ford Sync 2 is not compatible. No software upgrades for Sync were offered, so my phone cannot hold the sync."

"Ford's Battery Management System is terrible. When battery voltage is low, the system shuts down the radio. Did NOT come back on after new battery was installed. Dealer would Not make good."

"sound would just stop working and random times."

"I was driving down the road, minding my own business, listening to the radio. Then, POP, POP, POP, POP! I ducked. I thought someone was shooting at my me. Lucky for me it was just the radio committing suicide. Ever since that day, no radio, no cd, no display and no steering wheel audio controls. The loud noise may have damaged the speakers but how would I know."

"It just quit working"

"Radio crashed and was unsalvageable. A replacement radio had to be ordered."

"Radio did not work and you cannot use the phone system in truck. The dealer incorrectly diagnosed the problem. We had to pay for diagnostics and then had to pay for half the cost of the radio to fix. They told us we would have to pay for new software to get phone working and we chose not to."

"At 12000 miles radio has stopped working."

"Radio made a loud pop sound and all the previously mentioned features stopped working."

"The radio unit, which also controls the bluetooth, phone, steering wheel conrols, etc., went out. The OEM replacement part is very expensive, and so is the labor to install it"

"Radio quits at 83000 mi. Replacement over 400.00. What kind of inferior products are they putting out and expecting us to pay to replace?? I will not have ford fix this issue and be over charged."

"Lost clarity."

"The turn signal leaver didn't stay engaged in the detent had to hold the lever for the flash to continue until the turn was complete."

"Turn signals worked intermittently, media controls would change station or mode when I turned the steering wheel"

"The radio volume control button sometimes changes the station."

"My turn signals began operating sporadically; sometimes working, sometimes starting then turning themselves off after three blinks, sometimes not coming on at all. It was caused by a broken piece attaching attached to the steering column. The problem made driving more dangerous, and it was very expensive to repair."

"Pretty minor, license plate light burnt out. Interesting, 2018 did the same thing, gravel roads likely."

"Tail light needed to be re-seated"

"fog lights aren't working right now"

"temp gauge stopped working, had to replace entire display including speedometer & tach"

"See previous response"

"Fuel guage doesn't show full anymore....it never reaches the full point, so now I must use the trip computer to see how much fuel has been used so I know the status of remaining fuel."

"One headlight stopped working. Napa was able to replace the bulb under warranty. About three months later the same headlight stopped working. I noticed the connector was heat damaged. I replaced the connector myself with an after market part."

"front passenger headlight was broken and had to be replaced. This was a collision repair bill as the damage was consistent with a collision."

"The driver's side heated seat got so hot I had to turn it off and get out of the truck until it cooled. After that, the heated seat stopped working all together. The dealership fixed it (out of warranty) and now it works fine."

"one of the door locks works intermittently"

"Both rear door locks stopped working."

"drivers door lock did not work with FOB. I ended up changing the door lock module, inside the door."

"Remote start was closest choice. Actually the electronics to the starter it self. When colder than zero F, turn key, but - not crank or start. Not a battery issue. An electronic issue. Towed to dealer. No codes. Could not duplicate. Same issue four winters in a row"

"Sensor failed. Not mentioned in the survey was backup sensors failed for the 4th time"

"The Ford Sync system is badly programed. Does not remember where you are on your USB devices and the menu controls are clunky and difficult to use."

"The door Open sensor would not go off. The issue was a broken ground wire in the door panel"

"Check engine light went on. Auto parts store read the code and it indicated low voltage on O2 sensor on converter. Called dealer and he said we usually just delete that code. Did nothing and the problem has not reoccurred"

"The washer switch was faulty"

"Wipers go on intermittently when they are turned off."

"Washer motor went bad. Replaced under extended warrenty"

"Caused the truck to be difficult to steer and had to take it to the dealer"

"Power steering has gone out twice now since I've owned it. Needed a new pump and needed new hoses as well."

"Turning all the way to the left caused a loud buzzing noise and the ABS system would go out and the blinker would not stay on. I had to turn off the Vehicle and turn it back on to clear the issue"

"right side front leaked replaced both front struts"

"Shocks needed replaced all around after 115,000 miles. I do quite a bit of towing and regularly haul reasonable heavy loads. I replaced them with factory original parts to keep the original suspension and handling characteristics. The originals did a good job for a long time."

"I was backing up in my driveway and it just quit. I'm glad I wasn't on the road. It was much harder than when the old power steering units went out. You could move them with a lot of effort. When my electronic steering on my 2012 Ford F 150 went out, it took all I had to get it into my driveway. It had about 134,000 miles on it. I had to have it put on a flatbed truck to haul it to Titus Will Ford in Tacoma, Wash. to have it replaced. It works fine now. Love the truck but sure is expensive to work on."

"reported noise coming from left front wheel area around 30000 miles on it. Service advisor told me not to turn the wheels more than 15 degrees while in 4 wheel drive! Noise became severe around 37000 miles on it and it needed a complete new rack and pinion assembly and would cost about $1800 plus to replace. Ultimately, I filled out a customer survey and was contacted by local dealer and they reviewed vehicle record to show that I had previously had vehicle in for the same issue prior to a warranty date and FORD refunded me about $1155."

"Rack and pinion was replaced in August of 2016. Had to go in again a year later in August of 2017 and have it replaced again. Luckily this time was under warranty for the parts. Still had to pay labor though. Not sure why it keeps having problems."

"The entire power steering system needed to be replaced due to a non-functioning steering unit that caused vibrations, squealing, steering looseness, mis-alignment and other issues. This was a serious problem that could have caused a dangerous situation and possibly a wreck. I checked on-line and many other Ford F-150 owners for 2011-1014 trucks had experienced this same issue yet no recall or safety warning was issued by Ford or the government. The fix cost almost $4000 out of my pocket for what is obviously a faulty system. PLEASE LOOK INTO IT!"

"Computer error message resulting in replacement of rack and pinion system. (Had been replaced with aftermarket items prior to, per mechanic)"

"Linkage makes a loud metal bang when turning and going over bump at the same time"

"Electric Steering Rack had to much play mechanically. Was replaced"

"The steeling position sensor failed and the rack and pinion had to be replaced"

"Have had to replace the rack and pinion almost every year now for the last 3-4 years. Keeps going bad"

"Steering went out all of a sudden while parking in a lot, luckily almost in the space and didn’t block traffic. Part alone was $3,000"

"Lots of issues in the front end, linkage, steering. Again, very expensive to fix"

"Needed replacing of right one had to replace fuel pumps"

"The tire wear appeared to be excessive especially on the left front even when the tires were always rotated at 5000 miles? Eventually, the vehicle would be difficult to keep in the proper driving lane and that was about the time they told me that the rack and pinion were bad. The cupping started around 30000 miles even with the tires being rotated. The vehicle has the original tires but I will replaced all of them within the next 2 months!"

"left front wheel bearing failure, caused vibration at high speeds. Mainly street vehicle odd to have a bearing failure less than 80000 miles"

"EVAP Purge Valve stuck in the open position causing fuel tank to collapse. Caught the issue right away which prevented permanent damage. Was easy to diagnose and repair"

"The control devices were covered under warranty but it took me 3 trips to the dealer for them to finally get it right"

"The catalytic converter had to be replaced along with the O2 sensors"

"door to the refill tube does not close as designed. Cost of new door was prohibitive."

"the gauge shows less gas than it has. Have tried to fix problem new sender etc to know avail"

"Problem has developed with the fuel level sensor. The three problems I've noted have to do with this. The check engine light goes on when my gas gauge gets to 3/4s full and goes off when I get to 1/4 tank. Local ford dealer wanted to charge me $75 to tell me what the codes were involved, went to local parts store and they told me what the codes where for free."

"Fuse and wire for fuel pump is undersized according to service report and it causes fuse connection to heat up and also burn out fuse. They had to replace that part of wire harness to larger gauge wire and lagrer amp fuse."

"The check engine light came on and, when decoded, determined that the O2 sensor had gone bad. The vehicle was driven for a few months before finally taking it in for service and getting it fixed."

"A bug in sensor at least that what dealership said. Cost $400 and many hours waiting."

"Catalytic converter needed replacing"

"check engine light comes on"

"O2 sensor caused the engine to run very rich and used more fuel"

"Check Engine light"

"Had multiple sensors fail causing the engine light to come on and prevent passing inspection"

"Dealer replaced sensor at no cost. Vehicle was certified"

"The emission evaporator purge valve was bad. It was intermittent and took them a week to figure out which one of the sensors was bad"

"they were diagnosed to be defective and were replaced"

"Mass air flow sensor went out suddenly and made the engine run to lean making it nearly impossible to drive from a cold start. Was able to drive to dealer and replace for about $700"

"Brought the F150 into a State sponsored emissions test facilities. The vehicle failed the emissions test due to sensors being Not Ready. Not sure how this happens, but was told to drive it another 100 miles and bring it in for a retest. Still awaiting the retest."

"Driver's side of rear window. Apparently pretty much every last F150 made from the late nineties on through today end up with the back window letting in water. Poor seal design, and Ford absolutely refuses to fix them. They are, quite simply, incompetent"

"Water leaked from drain-hose connection to top of driver side front window pillar on inside of cab"

"Water leak around door driver side"

"Rear window was replaced under warranty 4 years ago for a bad defroster. I didn't realize the new installation was leaking in the rear left top side. It is in a hard place to see the leak. It was running down behind the rear seat. I finally noticed the rear cab corner was rusting from the inside out which alerted me to the window seal. I did notify the dealer (NYE Ford, NY) but they wanted to do nothing about it."

"water is coming from the roof through the back window."

"water still leaking after 6 years"

"The wind whistl