Ford F-150 Change Vehicle

"Rain leak from the front passenger side over the winter"

"cab brake light seal failure."

"Leak occurred around the rear light mouted on the back of the cab. I removed light and made a new seal for it and there are no more leaks. Used putty from body shop to make the new seal. Cost to fix. None except my own time. Price from Ford dealer was going to be $90 just to diagnose issue, which I had already done. I learned that this has been a common problem with the tail light mounted on the back of the cab just above window. Ford should have fixed it for no cost. I since have informed others about how to fix the leak problem."

"The seal around the rear light on top of the cab failed, causing water to leak into the truck and stain the headliner. This is clearly another material issue which ford would not stand behind."

"Water was making it's way in through light above the truck bed. I sealed it myself."

"There is a water leak where the water is coming in through the bed light which is located on the outer/backside of the cab"

"drain channel on roof has rusted. I was told it was do to weather and the color of the paint (I purchased the truck in Tucson, AZ, the car is silver and, apparently, silver and the desert don't work well together). In any event I paid $1,200 to fix a leak on the passenger side that, unfortunately didn't actually fix the leak"

"Rear slider leaks bad when it rains, know problem by ford, no recall. Headliner gets wet, stinks"

"1 day after my husband bought the used truck it rained and the water Leaked into the back seat where our 2 year old daughter sits"

"Water leaks into cab at the back left and back right corners"

"Water leak back glass -"

"When I brought my truck in for sunroof they noticed that my drains from sunroof were leaking into my truck"

"Sunroof leaked, taken it twice to Ford for repair and still leaks"

"Water leaks on rear window"

"Plastic piece in the sunroof mechanism broke when closing and rendered the roof inoperable"

"Weather strip on passenger window allowed rain to seep to inside of door."

"When it rains the door panels fill with water"

"where the roof seem meets the side, water leaked in the headliner and down to the carpet when it rained. finally sealed it myself."

"Weather stripping at top of rear doors frequently comes loose and hangs."

"Rain came in through front windows filling the door panel with water which sloshed around; worried about mold with all the water in there. Dealer fixed."

"rear stop light leaks water in to headliner. door seals leak water in to dash wiring and control modules etc."

"3rd breaklight seal leaked and allowed rain to soak the interior"

"Rear window seal leaks. Water damage to lining of truck"

"Sealing around the Third Brake Light assembly was faulty and allowed water intrusion into the passenger compartment"

"Common problems of the rear brake light seal wearing out and the sunroof drainage lines blocking, leading to leaks in the cab"

"At 1000 RPM there is an annoying sound somewhere from below the vehicle - unsure what it is"

"Front end noise never resolved. Told its due to age. Fords are noisy pickups."

"Heat shield"

"Sounds like right rear door is open when driving at 40 mph or more"

"Positive traction clutches quit working. Had to replace by dealership."

"Loud churning / rubbing sound from rear of truck. Thought a bearing had gone out, but took it to my Ford dealer who determined the differential needed to be replaced. Completed successfully under CPO warranty. Truck had approx. 90,000 miles when differential went bad, now has approx. 97,000 with no issues."

"Positive traction clutches in the differential had to be replaced."

"Clutches went bad in the limited slip Differential"

"every time i would come to a stop the rear driveshaft would slide forward with a bang and then again when i started driving again. this only happened after to the truck was serviced because of a rear end recall. told the dealer about it and he said it was very common with this truck , get used to it ."

"Currently experiencing problems with front end; may be u-joints or front differential/transfer case."

"The transmission developed a shudder when at cruising speeds. Dealer "fix" did not cure it"

"A definite "clunk" from 4th to 3rd, when slowing down. Has done this since 50,000 miles"

"Two piece shaft bearing went bad Also a new fuel pump this year"

"Two piece drive shaft needs periodic grease packing to prevent slipping"

"My pickup would give me a clunking sound when I completely stopped, and also when I started back up from a complete stop. I got it fixed from my Ford dealer using a Ford Grease Kit that cost me $28, and my 2010 pickup drives like a brand new pickup - total cost was $176 ($120 for 1-hour labor), and well worth it."

"Vibration while on interstate going about 65-75 MPH. Replaced driveshaft and that fixed the issue."

"Occational clunk from the rear after stopping. I was told the axel splines had to be lubricated every 60K miles although that's not in the book. They did it for me for free once."

"Severe vibration in driveshaft.Had to replace entire driveshaft.Was told it came in one piece at a cost of one thousand dollars."

"The drive line spline sticks and needs grease. It causes a bumping sensation when taking off from a stop. Have to take it to the shop. The drive line needs to be removed and grease applied. But, I love my truck."

"Drive shaft was disassembled, cleaned, lube slip yoke."

"Pickup was not shifting appropriately, the seals on the drive train were replaced and reset the transmission. Seems to have resolved the problem"

"replaced- covered under extended warranty"

"Had to replace a half axle on the front"

"Yokes were causing a clunk and needed lubrication"

"two piece driveshaft needs periodic lube packing. Without this procedure the driveshaft is loose and bangs on acceleration/deceleration"

"Slip yolk needed to be lubed. That solved a problem I had since I bought it brand new"

"The differential/bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft went out. To correct the problem, the entire driveshaft needs to be replaced"

"I had two separate failures of the heater system. One was the resistor pack that controls the blower motor speeds died. And later, the temperature controller, that varies the cool air and heater air mix failed. (I believe that the issue is with the servo that actuates the flipper valve, not with the control knob itself). I have not yet fixed the second problem. Two separate cab heater failures is quite disappointing, on a relatively new truck."

"At 155,000+ the truck just died, stopped working all electrical failed, this happened four or five times. The failure was due to a fuse that melted down, took three trips to the dealer to find the cause"

"Somehow water leaked into the ecm and shorted some wires. the truck was literally trying to start itself. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop"

"Truck completely shut down while driving"

"My understand g of the problem, as dscribed by the maintenance specialist. The ESC was sensing the vehicle was in a turn (or not) when the vehicle was not and actually applied differential braking to correct what it thought was a slip or a skid and caused the vehicle to be undrivable until the ESC was disabled."

"Rebuilt posi traction system three times for a slip/noise in rear end"

"I took my truck in for an alignment and was told that my ball joints needed replacement before an alignment could be done. With only 79900 mostly highway miles I thought this a very early failure"

"Leaking high pressure hose on power steering rack."

"I have a leak in the power steering high pressure line. It started in the last few months and will need repairs"

"Power steering pump was not responding properly and had to be replaced. Dealership should have recommended a flush as part of maintenance but did not."

"hose cracked, could not find replacement, had to order from ford, wrong hose sent it cracked & pump & additional hoses broke $1,000 later fixed but new pump is noisey compared to old one"

"The spring around the right front shock broke, necessitating replacement of spring and shock. They were only sold as a unit."

"The shocks and struts have worn out from usage."

"Had a severe pull right. front brakes were bad and upper support arms had to be replaced"

"Upper link on both sides had to be replaced"

"Leaking front strut"

"I am on my third re-build of the fox shocks. They are great but expensive and need routine maintenance"

"Broken springs on both front tires probably due to potholes. Passenger side broken spring resulted in damaged strut."

"Both front springs were broken vehicle has never been off road"

"During alignment, tech discovered broken spring for left front tire"

"a leaf spring needed to be replaced"

"Unable to steer truck"

"Rack and Pinion stopped working as intended, therefore caused issues with turning, was expensive to fix and not many options for replacement parts."

"The universal joints on the collapsible portion of the steering column corroded to the point that the truck was no longer drivable. The joints do not have grease fittings any more, and driving in the Northeast causes salt / water mix to immerse this area every winter. I consider this a major mission critical design failure on Ford's part. Nobody should build a truck that can't be steered, particularly at a relatively young age and low mileage."

"Replaced complete rack and pinion steering unit because it was leaking fluid. Cost was $1000."

"Lower steering shaft coupler was seizing causing steering to be erratic. Had to have a new shaft installed."

"Right front tie rod wear was excessive. Needed replacement"

"Front inside tire wear was caused by tie rod problem. Tires were rotated at 6000 miles"

"I went though two right front tires before they checked the alignment and adjusted that. This was too recently for me to tell if it resolved the alignment/tire wear problem or not"

"Had one go bad"

"Some of the manifold bolts had deteriorated. Replaced the bolts and gasket. Manifold itself was still serviceable"

"At first I thought my cam shaft was going out but apparently the seal to my evap system had broken (probably weathered, it's got 120,000 miles on it so not completely unexpected), and it hasn't been fixed yet but I'm assuming that once I replace the squeaky pulleys and a few seals it'll be great again"

"A leak in the exhaust that required near the front of a truck that required replacement. Cost $1900 CND. Replaced with an upgraded design"

"I have had to replace both exhaust manifolds due to leaks. This was expensive and should not be necessary at less than 90,000 miles"

"I heard a minor noise coming from the engine and had the Ford technician check on it. He diagnosed the problem being a warped exhaust manifold. He said it was a common problem with this year and engine. I had it replaced for $960. With only 79900 miles on the truck I was very disappointed"

"Broken bolts on mnifold - both sides. According to the shop it's a fairly common issue with teh F150s."

"cracked manifold"

"Cracked exhaust manifold"

"Serious cracks in the exhaust manifold. Expensive to replace."

"Some of the exhaust manifold studs broke causing manifold damage, A friend with a 2010 F150 had the same problem and my mechanic said it was a common problem with Ford, RAM and GM trucks"

"Exhaust manifold is cracked after 120,000 km. This issue is well known. The Ford dealer told me which side it would probably be without looking. Passenger side manifolds are a well known problem."

"Leaks"

"Crack on right side rear cylinder flange, broken stud, and frozen (corroded) nuts"

"broken manifold bolt"

"I have had to have the passenger exhaust manifold replaced twice and the driver's side once due to cracks and exhaust leakage getting into the cab, Twice studs broke off and it took several days tp drill out and re-tap resulting in days delay and extra $500 charge each time"

"mounting studs broke causing a leak"

"Exhaust noise became noticeable near engine. Both exhaust manifolds were cracked. Dealer investigated & replaced at no charge. (Ford Gas 'n Go client / extended warranty - 6 yrs)"

"Pin hole in manifold gasket results in loud ticking noise when excellerating. Cost to repair is ridiculous. If all goes well, $1000. If complications could cost upwards of $5000. Will never buy ford again"

"Service technician said I have a cracked exhaust manifold, making a noise that SOUNDS like ticking. Technician said it is a common problem, and there is an after-market 'clamp' used to fix it. If it's that common, why no recall?"

"looks like it rusted thru."

"Right exhaust manifold had to be replaced at about 100000 km. Ticking noise. Dealer says fairly common on the vehicle. Advised that Left one usually goes within the next year as well. So far no issues with it"

"HAD TO GET REPLACED"

"Excessive brake wear resulted in piston popping out. 50000 km is maximum between brake jobs. This truck has mostly highway miles, now 125,000 km and I always brake gently as possible."

"caliper locked up, was replaced. new caliper locked up, then replaced master cylinder and brake line."

"brake pads worn down to metal"

"somehow parking brake shoes managed to damage rotors. Those parking brake shoes cost me as much as the rotors..... rear brake pads were dirt cheap in comparison. Just replaced front rotors and pads 8 months before. I expect to get double time and/or mileage out of the rears..... and i never expected shoes to be so expensive. Also most rear disc brakes are the parking brakes without having drum brakes...."

"when I bought the truck the e-brake was sticking (I got the truck cheap)"

"Last summer, at 20000 miles the front brake rotors warped. I had not made any hard panic stops. I had pulled a light trailer a total of about 250 miles. I was told that this was normal by the local Ford dealer service department, I do not believe that. After talking with knowledgeable mechanics other than the only local Ford dealership and searching on line I find that front break rotor warping is a design fault for this year and others. This problem should have been a recall fixed by Ford Motor Company. The repair job was $300.00, not big bucks, but I will not go back to this dealership for any more work."

"Had to replace all brakes before 100000 km. Truck was used mainly for long trips"

"Brake linings went metal to metal in 55000 miles--much too soon. My 2003 has 76000 miles and still doesn't need brake linings"

"Ford uses terrible brake pads and terrible rotors. They had to be replaced at 25 thousand miles. Replaced with different brand than Ford. Not covered under warranty"

"It was time for new rotors and pads. They lasted a long time but they found a partially collapsed brake line in the right front that was causing pulling."

"salt corrosion, wear, needed replacement"

"Rotors warped at 20000 miles, this is a design fault that Ford will not recognize."

"The rotors required changing because of the premature wear of the brake linings. When the truck was fairly new the brakes were squealing. The dealer charged for "blowing dust from the linings because that wasn't covered. So when the brakes began to squeal at 54000, we ignored the noise thinking nothing was wrong"

"Rotors are slightly warp after only 60,000 miles. Brakes still work safely"

"Very cheap metal does not last"

"Backing out of the garage or backing anywhere the brakes squeak. I was told that it can't be fixed."

"After the truck sits for a while and you start up and go the brakes squeal for the first 3 or 4 times you applied them. I have been told this is normal by a Ford Mechanic, but I find it very annoying"

"Brakes squeeked excessively, especially when braking while in reverse"

"all exterior lights did not work"

"Trailer plug is not wired properly for trailer tail lights of any kind (missed at the factory somehow). I had to have it rewired to work properly"

"Fuel gauge stopped worked. Problem turned out to be a fuel level sensor which cost $1200 to replace!, mainly because of labor (sensor is on tank under truck bed). Tracked fuel level by mileage odometer for many months, in order to avoid the $1200. Finally, had to give in because the failed sensor was preventing the truck from passing inspection."

"the gauge lights only come on when it is dark outside. they will not come on by turning on the headlights on a very cloudy or rainy day. Often you cannot see the gauges."

"gauge lights don't come on when headlights are turned on. They do light up briefly when door is opened."

"Instrument cluster failed and had to be replaced"

"They flashed instrad of staying on. A computer issue that was fixed along with the panel computer"

"The heating & cooling function stopped working. Changed fuses & passenger seats now work but driver seat does not."

"drivers seat heating and cooling fail to stay engaged and operational. likely requires computer module from under seat to be replaced (+$200)"

"Total loss of the horn. It turned out to be a loose connection at the actual horn contacts"

"Keyless entry system and alarm both stopped working at the same time. Have not fixed them yet."

"The key fob ceased working and was replaced."

"When I put new tires on the TPMS never came on again. Discount Tire assures me they always replace/check these, there’s a poster in the store that explains how they do this & store manager assures me it’s done. I’ve had 3 sets of tires & no TPMS"

"daily errors of pressure monitor failure noted on information center. Unable to determine WHICH tire monitor has failed as system is not that specific."

"one of the tire pressure sensors had to be replaced"

"I have to change a sensor"

"they never worked when the tire presser went down"

"Instrument cluster failed and had to be replaced"

"CD player has never worked at all. Just ejects CD without playing."

"Rejects disks on load. Have to make many attempts to finally load a disk. Six disk player has quit functioning for disk 6"

"Sync display went blank, needed a power module to fix it. It was cheaper to put in a complete new system than replace the Ford oem part"

"The Ford Sync System slowly starts loosing features (simply not enabled suddenly) until soon no Bluetooth pairing works and other features. I have to go to a Ford dealer for a master reset that costs time and money. This happens every 6-9 months."

"bluetooth only works about 75% of the time. It frequently disconnects itself, or just doesnt work properly"

"The whole system stopped working after it was taken in for service."

"The main controller for the vehicle was no longer functional so unable to use GPS, radio and the heating and or cooling. Replacement cost at dealer was $1100 and no problems since replacement."

"nav system failed"

"The reception for the am and fm are getting weak. Stations fade in and out. Satellite radio, cd, line in, USB all work fine. I was told the the receiving amp is getting weak. I tried an antenna amp booster, but it didn't help."

"The screen display stopped working all together"

"Sometimes (infrequently) when I turn up the volume knob, the volume goes down (opposite of the direction I was turning the knob). It sometimes happens in either direction (up or down)."

"I can't get updates. Ford requires a Microsoft Ford Sync account, which you get exactly one of when you purchase the vehicle. When I first bought the truck I went online to setup my account. During the setup process the website they have barfed up an error on the screen and died. It has been forever locked as it thinks I setup my account, which I sort of did but their app had some kind of bug so I have never been able to actually access my account. Nobody at their customer service can find the account in their system to provide any help and I can't set it up again b/c my single use setup key I got with the truck has been used and cannot be used again. I bet my truck sends everyone my unencrypted SSN as I drive around. Well, maybe not that bad but its probably not far off. I'm sure encryption was the 3rd or 4th update I have not been able to obtain using my locked up and orphaned Sync account."

"Having to buy the update every year. Unable to install update the first time."

"The driver side door speaker does not work all the time. However if it fails to work and I crank the volume the speaker will start working then if I turn the volume down the speaker works fine until the next time I get in the truck."

"I am now on my third or fourth set of speakers for the pickup. The quality appears to be lacking, they only last about 18 months"

"Speaker on driver side works intermittently"

"The radio buttons on the steering wheel sometime do not perform the correct function. As an example, pressing the volume up or down button may change the radio station instead."

"Continually confuses phone command and calls wrong number. No problem when new but as auto aged problem occurred and gets worst"