Ford F-150 Change Vehicle

"Compressor seized and was replaced"

"Reported by mechanic at dealership that the vehicle has problem with factory installed compressor which is wrong size for efficiency and is common complaint in maintenance dept"

"the blend door that changes from heat to cool broke ford dealer estimated over $1200 for just labor"

"Vehicle has dual zone Climate Control. One of the blend door actuators failed (stuck on full heat - passenger side), and had to be replaced."

"We put in 1 of the 4 air condition systems in."

"Dual Zone system, blowing hot air only on passenger side. Unable to control. Suspect passenger side blend door actuator failure."

"Fix my fan control on my pickup – the fan speed was stuck on high with it turned ON, whether AUTO or just try to adjust with fan speed myself. Looked on internet and found out if the Ford F-150 Lariat has AUTO Climate Control, you have to replace the “Blower Speed Control Module,” but if the auto does not have the AUTO Climate Control, you have to replace the Resister. Also from the internet I saw a video showing how to remove/replace the existing AUTO Climate Control, so I ordered it from OEM Ford Part, Georgia for $77 + $8 (S&H)= $85. Got it in 3 days thru USPS. Very easy to replace since the video showed how to drop the glove box so the part is practically in front of you – my only problem was having to sit on the door ledge that is not very wide at all, and I had to hold my weight up from slipping with my right hand on the door, and me having to use my left hand to turn the wrench (ever tried even brushing your teeth with your left hand). It didn’t take long to do it and already said my only problem. The fan speeds worked good after replacement."

"Passenger and drivers side air diverter actuators both failed when the vehicle had about 47000 miles. The Drivers side is now making noise and expected to fail soon."

"Passenger side control stuck on heat."

"Auto climate control failed"

"I have dual zone heating and cooling, as well as heated and cooled front seats. The dual zone heating/cooling is currently not working correctly. The drivers side will blow cool or warn/hot air as designed and selected, but the passenger side will only blow warm/hot air, regardless if I have selected “MAX AC” on full cold."

"No air or heat"

"Passenger side climate control went out. Required labor intensive new climate control module"

"The gear on the motor broke"

"Damper failure."

"Only driver's side would work"

"The control module and the damper module has had to replaced twice, they would not direct airflow to areas, heat to drivers feet nor fefrost"

"damper failure"

"Damper control motor"

""Damper " for outside air wouldn't close"

"Had to replace the Modules that control the climate control. one side of the vehicle was blowing cool air while the other vents blew hot air"

"heat/AC Blend motor. Malfunction doesn't allow control of heat and cool air flow out right side vents. after reading other owners account of this problem, the vehicle would either blow all hot or all cold, depending on what position the motor failed. My issue is hot air all the time. (a/c, heat, whatever)"

"Driver side only blew ambient air...replaced module and fixed problem"

"It is noisy and a poor quality...but that is what a Ford is!!"

"No heat generated on the driverside; have normal heat on passenger side."

"The blower motor became unreliable. It would not always work. The wiring connector was also fouled. Required replacement of the motor and the connector. The motor had to be replaced twice because the dealership didn't find the problem in the connector until it shorted out the first replacement."

"About 2 months ago the 1st 3 positions on the fan switch stopped operating. Presently, the fan only works on the 4th highest speed. My initial research notes that there are two different relays but I have not figured out how to fix the problem yet. (I will likely have to take the truck to a dealer to insure the proper fix.)"

"Actual problem was the blend door actuator, which have failed on many Ford trucks. Cost of replacement was over $1,000 and Ford did not recall or pay for the faulty actuators."

"a/c working but weakly the evaporator, fan switching apparatus was not operating properly vehicle is 9 years old with 114k miles local shop repaired the system and while apart we replaced the heater core and any other parts under the dash"

"fan doesn't work below third level"

"The fan motor completely stopped working and had to be replaced."

"Blower motor would only operate at slow speed due to problem with clime control issue."

"blower fan not working properly at the two high speeds"

"It quit working. Shop repaired it."

"HVAC suddenly stopped working on a hot day. No ventilation available except to open windows. Could have been a serious problem had it been a vacation time or raining outside."

"Noisey blower fan, it has been that way for awhile and should have dealt with it during warranty period. This one is on me, other than the crappy original OEM part"

"currently the fan only works on #4. So if you want heat it has to be full blast or nothing"

"The problem is actually the blend door actuator, which separates the A/C and heat on each side of the cabin. When the A/C is on, the driver receives cold air and the passenger receives hot air. The opposite is also true - when the heater is on, the driver receives hot air and the passenger receives cold air. This is a serious problem that Ford should have repaired by recall. Ford is hiding this and does not want consumers to know about this major problem. This is a design defect, an enginee"

"Fan would not run on the lowest two settings. It would only blow if turned to the highest settings"

"Has a loud clicking noise when ignition is turned on. lasts about 10 seconds"

"Unit failed, replacement required."

"needed replacement"

"cabin condensor leaks and is too expensive to repair therefore i am running without the air conditioning"

"The condenser formed a leak from improper installation. The body panel rubbed a hole in the condenser"

"developed leak requiring replacement"

"Common problem with F150s. Occured over a year."

"Leaky"

"Driver side seat heater will not activate"

"Heating core went on the F-150. It is in a terrible location and very very expensive to fix. I hate Ford for a terrible design, I would most likely never buy a F-150 again."

"For the last year, the heater only works at full blast. It would cost several hundred dollars to repair it so that the temperature adjustment would function."

"a control capacitor went out, which controls temperatures such as warming/cooling."

"Only cold air on passenger side. Defrost included."

"The heating / cooling system contain blend door actuators that control the mix of air to keep the temperature at adjustment. When the vehicle is started, these doors go through an initialization process which causes them to click and crack when the little plastic sprocket that controls the door positioning wears out. They're are 3 of them inside the dash. They're identical $35 parts but can cost $1,000+ to replace. It looks like only 2 of the 3 are worn out on my truck - the cheap ones to replace - $200 each. If the one in the middle of the dash is bad, the dash must be taken apart to replace it - $1000 estimate at my Ford dealership."

"The actuator for the heat blend door required replacement."

"Heat would only work on driver's side"

"Drivers side heater quit working at 36 000 miles. $35.00 part costs $600 to replace"

"Loss of heat"

"The heat system failed and blew only exterior air out of all vents except for the driver side which blew unbearably hot air. Terrible"

"Heater control doors stopped working resulting in cold air year 'round. Problem was mechanical link to door"

"They recharged the system with coolant."

"It must be a micro leak, which has minimal affect on the system, but the technicians could not fix the problem."

"The seals failed."

"Radiator had to be replaced along with refrigerant because they were integrated with each other"

"system stopped cooling. replaced compressor and related components to restore cooling repairs were done byASE certified mechanic."

"air conditioner wasn't functioning as well as it should, expensive repair job"

"ac hoses were worn and leaking"

"Pain around wheel well is starting to flake on bed"

"This pickup had been garaged and for the most part kept clean. The rear cab in the lower corners both rusted out. Cost me almost a $1000 to fix. My 2013 toyota had absolutely no rust with almost 142000."

"Paint at the bottom back corners of the cab began to bubble which was enough for a high pressure car wash sprayer to peel off."

"Paint peeled off top of the right side of the truck bed in 3 places. Two places were the size of a silver dollar. One place was the size of a playing card. Paint also came off the cab roof in the indentations in four places. The biggest was the size of a dollar bill. Rust formed in the area."

"The paint on the tailgate is separating from the primer in large chunks."

"Paint in the bed of the truck has bubbled. And Flaked off in large pieces"

"Paint peeling from truck bed panel. about 3" X 4" area"

"Paint fell off due to rust forming behind driver's side front wheel"

"Rocker panels are completely rusted out"

"Had rust repaired behind the rear seats body panel. This was this time. 3 years ago had the front bumper replaced for rust as well"

"Rocker panels at the bottom of the rear doors, both sides, had been attempted to be repaired by previous owners but rust kept coming through the cracking and peeling paint. I had totally new rocker panels put in and painted MAACO and have been very satisfied."

"salt on road in winter"

"When the truck was five years, many exterior parts where rusted. The dealer contacted Ford and some of the parts were replaced at a discounted price. It seems that Ford uses inferior materials in making their trucks."

"the left rear fender well is rusting out"

"started rusting while under warranty and was painted under warranty, rust returned and I had the truck painted and the rust is still coming back,"

"Body panels are not designed to keep dirt and water from accumulating and causing rust. So far this has happened above both rear wheels, the front left lower corner of the bed and both rocker panels. The rocker panels will cost over $1000 each to replace. The other 3 spots cost about $1600."

"The vehicle would not pass inspection. I was quoted a price of $3400 for a repaint and repair."

"Rear bumper is rusting at both ends, and around the back-up sensors."

"rust problems after 1st year and had several panel painted under warranty some more than once, final had the whole truck painted and changed the tail gate because it had rusted through, 2 years later rust showing through"

"Required replacement of cab corners and rocker panels to get inspection sticker. Rear fenders will require replacement as well."

"In spite of having the truck undercoated every two years, the rear fenders on the box of the truck are rusting through."

"rust on both rear wheel welss"

"Painted metal front bumper susceptible to chipping and rust."

"THE BUMPERS RUSTED TOO SOON AND THERE ARE SEVERAL SITES WITH RUST."

"At 5 years the cab corners showed signs of rust. By year 7 they were rusted through with 2 inch perforations. Not Ford tough!"

"The rocker panel and area below the rear doors is rusting out completely. I see other Ford crew cabs have the same problem. It is also starting to rust on the front of the rear fenders. I see now why Ford went to aluminum because they could not figure out how to prevent rust through on the body."

"Read wheel wells rusted"

"I believe we were deceived when we purchased the truck. It did not show when we purchased, then suddenly a 3X6 spot appeared under the driver's side door. We knew the the truck had come from Canada, but we did not see any rust on inspection."

"lower rocker rusted out poor quality"

"My front and back bumpers and my cab corners are scheduled for a paint job."

"rusty bumper especialty the rear"

"Doors, cabin corners, running panels, undercarriage and bumpers have rusted through such that there are visible holes. Body shop claims it is a manufacturing defect. Repairs prohibitive in excess of $10,000 USD."

"Vehicle exhibits rust at back of cab on both sides and some is beginning at the rocker panel level on each side. It is unsightly and would be expensive to repair. I run the vehicle through car wash at least weekly except in dead of winter. I consider this amount of rust unacceptable. Considering Ford's move to an aluminum body this problem doesn't directly affect my propensity to consider a Ford in the future, but I am frustrated with this problem. I have never seen this in an 8 year old truck I have owned before and I didn't typically care for the others as well as this one."

"Right & Left rocker panels have developed extensive and deep rust. Also, the support bars for the bed are badly rusted. Oddly enough, the bottoms of the doors are fine, the rust is confined to rocker panels. It is so bad that I will trade this truck in sometime this summer"

"Under the paint oxidation, that is causing rust to form under the paint"

"The 3rd brake light above the rear window had been leaking during rainstorms allowing water to run into the body. This was due to a bad gasket. As a result there is extensive rusting above the running boards. Ford will not pay for the repair"

"Third breaklight above can leaked, causing paint damage and rust and interior leakage. Common problem with f150s"

"Box at cab corners and tailgate have developed rust. Truck ia washed and garaged"

"The front bumper has many spots of surface rust and needs painted and the left rear cab corner has a small hole rusted through"

"front bumper started pitting and rusting by 2013. took it to the dealer, had it repainted at my cost. after 6 months the problem reappeared. contacted Ford customer service this year, open a customer complaint ticket. the final dispositions was there was nothing they could do about it. Claimed it was caused by the roads I travel. I live in the city. Roads are pretty good here"

"The bottoms of the doors and rocker panels are badly rusted"

"back bumper rusting"

"At 60,000km the painted front & rear bumper began to rust badly. Ford was absolutely uncooperative in offering any remedy to repair my rusting bumpers. The front bumper rusted do badly that almost all the paint was blistered or had fallen off. Absolutely unacceptable gor a vehicle of such low mileage"

"A rust hole formed behind the drivers side rear door. They said that I was 2 months out of the rust-through warranty. I was not happy at all!"

"Rust on front and rear bumper, and behind driver's side front wheel"

"Rust on both rear fenders"

"Rust has developed on the bumper"

"Rust on the rocker panels beneath the doors on both sides"

"Between 45 and 52 the transmission constantly shift into overdrive and out, so bad truck feels like it jumping. No fix for problem."

"There is an issue with the driveshaft and the splines not having oil on them. I fixed myself."

"Having the transmission checked and flushed. Spark plugs changed and shocks replaced."

"Under load, when automatic transmission downshifts, it does so with a noticeable clunk & vibration."

"Very rough down-shift when carrying a load."

"The transmission, at times, seemed to have trouble deciding which gear level it wanted to be in. Over time it seemed to work itself out and I no longer experiance this problem."

"From 35 mph, no gas pedal applied, truck starting to coast to a slower speed, little braking, to almost stopping. During the slowing down the automated transmission starts to down shift to lower gears making loud and rough shifts. Ford has not try to resolve this problem. They said this was a memory transmission program issue."

"Same as first comment on transmission. It shifted roughly and jumped in and out of the low gears. Dealer replaced transmission fluid "valves" and cured the problem"

"The transmission shutters when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. This seams to be common with the 6R80 transmission but Ford can't find a fix for it."

"Developer a “shutter” at about 60 mph. Dealer not able to determine resolution except rebuilding transmission. Only had 90k miles."

"Transmission failed to lock up in Overdrive but would with OD off; basically worn out, which at 200k miles, was kinda expected. replaced transmission"

"Best described as "studdering" or trying to shift into low gears and jumping back and forth. A ford dealer agreed it was a problem with "valves in the transmission" transferring fluid and replaced said valves. It cured the problem"

"Do not buy the first model year of any vechicle"

"Nothing like having $2K part inside the transmission break down while getting on highway ramp..... six speed auto transmission forgot how to shift past 4th gear. Took more than a week to get and install the part. Still afraid it will happen again. That it's a symptom and not the cause."

"Transmission valve body control assembly malfunctioned and eventually failed. During the malfunctions and at the time of failure, the vehicle put our families life in jeopardy. Ford was unable to diagnose the problem until complete failure occurred"

"while in cruise control at 70mph, the transmission downshifted into a lower gear"

"At one point some drops on the driveway from the area of the trans and another time some drops from the differential. Got them fixed before failure."

"Hoses around front of radiator had to be replaced due to corrosion."

"Oil stains on driveway. Repair shop investigated, replaced transmission electrical bulkhead fitting, fixed problem."

"seal on the transmission leaks after vehicle is idle for a couple of days"

"Ford has gone cheap on their component parts. The transmission has a cap on the top that the wires run through, it has a rubber O-ring on it that fails and the cap just pops out causing the transmission fluid to leak out. There is a tech bulletin out on this, but no relief for consumers. The replacement is expensive as it requires all new transmission fluid."

"Small leak around shift selector boot, had to be replaced by a qualified transmission shop"

"My husband noticed a few drops of fluid under the truck in the garage. He wiped it up on a cloth and called our repair man for an appointment. It was a transmission leak."

"Valve replacement required to stop leak"

"Rear seal began leaking"

"minor leak that stained the driveway but did not effect driving the vehicle"

"Seal for sensor on side of transmission leaked - requires dropping the transmission pan to access and replace 11.00 o-ring - cost 367.00."

"It has a leak at an electrical connector o ring"

"The transmission suddenly began leaking transmission oil around the transmission bulkhead connector sleeve. This is a problem identified in Ford Technical Service Bulletin TSB 11-3-25. There was not a recall for this defect. I made the repair myself using Ford parts recommended in the TSB. The cost was approximately $100 for the parts."

"the o-ring from the cluster wiring leaked badly as the transmission gets pressurized as it starts to warm up and get up to factory operation temperature. No dip stick to read/check the transmission fluid level ."

"O ring seal was leaking.Cost to repair at Ford Dealership was $589"

"Seal went bad and dropped fluid on ground."

"Found tranny fluid all over garage floor. Called Ford and was told some of the 2010 have had this problem amnd if you contact us, we'll fix it for free. They fixed it for free with some choice words for not having a recall. I was told no recall bc it did not effect all 2010 F150."

"Gasket leaked most of the transmission fluid. Had extremely cold weather for several days which is rare in our part of the country (South Louisiana)"

"The seal where the electronics connected to the transmission had a leak."

"A front seal was leaking. Had to pull the pan to access it"

"Leak was found when truck was in for service"

"Gasket needed to be replaced"

"Transmission drive seal leak between engine and transmission, replaced seal"

"The bulk head connected sleeve has 3 o-rings that fail after so long. Ford has a TSB"

"The leaks star an disappear by itself. And I have a back door that do not open"

"Bulkhead connector replaced"

"I believe its in the need of a brake job or check the rotors. Remember it's only got 23000 mi just mostly city driving."