Ford F-150 Change Vehicle

“Rough shifting and slamming into gear at a stop. Dealer makes adjustments and is unable to solve problem”

“For only having 42000 miles on it It shifts rough and seems to slip”

“Recall on 2011 Ford F150 transmission. I notice the transmission skips / bucks / hesitates at time”

“It wont shift properly. And ford keeps telling me there isnt a problem, just change the software”

“Transmission needed extra work”

“Truck would not go forward and had to get towed to dealer for repair. Found fluid level due to minor leak which had not been previously detected. No way to check fluid level, only dealer can check it”

“Hard downshift sometimes during slow down. Recall #16N19 reprogrammed PCM which fixed problem”

“Faulty lead frame led to very quick downshifting, sometimes dangerous. took to dealer once, they didnt' find anything, did a lot of research on internet, brought it back and they agreed it was lead frame - replaced under warranty and updated firmware. been good since, also since that time ford issued a recall for the same issue”

“It doesn't properly shift, mainly downshifting. Ford wont admit there is a problem with it, only suggests to update software. That hasn't worked the last 3 times at 3 different dealers across the country”

“Required replacement of the Lead Frame assembly to correct persistent shifting issues, including sudden down-shifting to 1st gear from highway speeds”

“I was told by the service group that my downshifting issue was due to a transmission sensor. The trans was rebuilt and no problems since”

“Rough shifting. Electronics problems associated with it”

“Loud clicking noises”

“Stuck on one speed. Fan relay replaced. $450.00 Total”

“it stopped working. some type of control module”

“The gear that opens and closes the door to the cold or warm air stripped and made a horrendous knocking noise. The dealer wanted $600 to fix it. I purchased the part for $30 and installed it myself”

“It can not be turned down,”

“It failed”

“AC not plowing cold”

“making loud sound when temp knob turned to cold. Not repaired yet”

“Blend door motor failure”

“diffuser valve stuck cost 780.00”

“bought truck in 2011; did not use A/C very often. A/C would not cool in 2015 therefore took to repair shop;- mechanic did not find leak and re-filled system. System worked OK in summer 2015. A/C would not cool in 2016 summer therefore took to same repair shop; mechanic found that evaporator had a weld leak therefore installed new evaporator and re-filled system. System worked OK for summer 2016. A/C does not work in summer 2017. Will take into shop but am reluctant to have same mechanic”

“Ford has admitted they have a problem with the ignition coil in the 2011 eco boost, and will do nothing to correct it”

“Engine misfire. Dealer replaced spark plugs, coil boot and updated pcm according to a TSB”

“i have had it into ford 3 times for an engine miss . they can't find it. I believe it's a plug or coil. i hope it's not an injector. Going to take it to another dealer”

“I hit the accelerator and the engine did not respond and almost died. It turnout to be problems with the fuel injector and the spark plugs”

“Check engine light came on. Dealer found that #2 plug was not firing. Further investigation found that there was a service bulletin out from ford that directed them to replace all 6 spark plugs and ignition coils. Runs great now”

“Bought truck in 2011; it had 3.7L ecoboost engine. Since 2012 or so, the engine has had an intermittent hesitation (felt like one spark plug did not fire under heavy load/acceleration). Hesitation became much more common in 2016 after hauling/towing some heavy loads therefore took into Ford dealership at about 93,000 km. Dealership said that I had worn the plugs down until gap had widened from 0.28" gap to 0.56" gap and that the larger gap caused all 6 coils to fail due to higher internal”

“This is my fourth spark plug change this year. But it fixes the miss that the engine gets”

“Spark Plug and Coil replacement”

“Bad fuel economy and bucking. All tge plugs and coils went bad at 60000 miles”

“I had intermittent starting problems, especially colder than -15C. The starter was replaced and I have had no more problems”

“Fuel gauge sensor failed. Painful because it is part of the fuel pump assembly, so must replace the entire unit”

“Fuel gauge stopped working properly after approx 70000 miles. Shows empty or low on fuel with 10 to 15 gallons left”

“The injectors needed cleaning with a tune-up”

“Had to replace at 75000 miles”

“A sensor in the fuel tank failed, requiring tank removal to replace the sensor”

“both failed at the same time and vehicle had to be towed”

“Check Engine light came on”

“Rac an pinion faild”

“NEEDS A NEW STEERING GEAR AT $2,000!”

“Vibration”

“Funny noise when turning left and while steering was supposedly not affected, it too two trips and multiple days in the shop to fix”

“Power steering makes a grinding noise when I make a sharp right turn”

“Noise and vibration in steering”

“One front bearing slowly become noisy. An inspection showed the other was also starting to get loose so I had both replaced before either failed catastrophically”

“The blue paint on four of the six vaunted Blue Ovals has washed away. The reason is stupidly simple. They spray the blue on top of the chromed icons. Only a child would think paint would stick to a chrome surface. You do not see the colors fading off the emblems of the other truck manufacturers. Of course, the dealership's response of we can order replacements instead of we will fix it does not endear me to the brand. Imagine if the blue faded away from the Stars and Stripes. Where is th”

“underbody braces are rusting”

“Rear corners of the cab experiencing rust”

“Rust is beginning on some of the rocker panels in the corners. Remarkable on such a new truck”

“Surface rust on bottom of body where the power running boards are located both sides”

“The driver's seat got unbearably hot in one area for a while then stopped working all together”

“Driver side heated seat quit working”

“Break in the wiring harness”

“The check light tends to come on from time to time but will go off if battery cables are disconnected and reconnected”

“Timing chain stretched causing engine light to come on and almost no power. At the same time the Belts were squeaking and needed to be changed”

“Timimg chain stretched, cam phasers/chain replaced, covered by extended warranty. Check engine light was only sign of problem”

“Over Heating”

“Noticed antifreeze leaking from water pump had it replaced”

“Get a whistle from 32 to 44 mph only. doesn't make a difference if the windows are open or closed. dealer can't find it”